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BEAUTY A DUTY 

THE ART OF KEEPING YOUNG 



By 
SUSANNA COCROFT 

author of 
"What To Eat and When;" "Personal Hygiene;" "The Reading of 'i 
Character through Bodily Expression," etc. 




RAND McNALLY & COMPANY 

CHICAGO NEW YORK 



> 









Copyright, IQIS. 
By Rand McNally & Company 




V 






0F r -6 (915 

©CI.A414958 






CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I The Cultivation of Beauty . 5 

II The Hair 21 

III The Eyes 131 

IV The Nose 166 

V The Mouth 181 

VI The Ears 204 

VII The Hands 222 

VIII The Feet 245 

IX The Complexion 269 

Appendix 375 



BEAUTY A DUTY 

Chapter I 
THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 

Time was when cultivation of the beauty of the human face and 
figure was considered vanity,— an instigation of the evil spirit. Hap- 
pily, that day has passed. Every thought, every touch, every influ- 
ence that inspires the sense of beauty, is just so much added to 
uplifting and redeeming the world from sordidness and gloom. 

A well known Bishop is quoted as having said: 

"Beauty fills us with fresh thoughts and joyous emotions. 
It lifts towards higher worlds and promises the vision of bet- 
ter things. It awakens in the soul the conscious harmony 
that is itself. It is God's smile on His world, bidding us to 
take hope and be of good cheer." 

Indeed, the development of attractiveness in oneself is just as 
elevating and cultivating as the study of beauty anywhere. 

Is the study of the reproduction of this flesh by an artist— in 
marble, or paint or charcoal— more elevating than a study of the tint 
of the skin, the contour of the head as affected by the hair dressing, 
the preservation of the artistic lines of the flesh in living, breathing 
life? Is the effort to preserve the body— the beautiful soul-home of 
the human being— less ennobling than the study of art in the abstract? 

Away with the thought that the purpose to make the human form 
divine, a beautiful, wholesome expression of the beauty and whole- 
ness within, is vanity ! 



"They are never alone who are accompanied by noble 
thoughts." — Sir Philip Sydney. 



6 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The cultivation of beauty vanity? It is a duty each one owes 
to self, but especially is it a duty of woman,— the world looks to 
woman for the refining delicacies of life. 

As a mother, a sister, a wife, a sweetheart, you may not sur- 
round your husband, child, sister, brother, father or friend with the 
best art pictures, which help to lift the mental and spiritual tone of 
your home. You may not be able to provide a Diana, a Venus, a 
Madonna, painted or chiseled by one of the best masters ; but you can 
be yourself a more beautiful picture, because you are the work of the 
Master Artist. Human hand cannot portray the depth and breadth 
and subtle beauty of moving, breathing flesh. 

Every woman may be the most artistic expression in her home. 
She may care for her skin and keep it delicate as coral, she may keep 
the lines and curves of her figure as beautiful and symmetrical as 
those of any Venus or Diana. 

Your privilege, as a woman, is to educate, to refine, to ' ' allure to 
brighter worlds and lead the way." 

You can bring the best of art to your family. You can do the 
Master Artist honor, in expressing your share of beauty. Do not 
express His spirit clothed in any garment but your best,— and re- 
member the robe of the spirit is your physical body. 

It is woman's privilege, and should afford her pleasure, that 
she can be the object of her husband's admiration; she can be the 
realization of art in his home,— in his life. She can be a daily, re- 
freshing inspiration to father, mother, brother, sister, child or sweet- 
heart, and thus lend an unconscious, educational influence, uplifting 
and refining. 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 7 

A woman lends to the comfort of the home by her attention to 
material duties, but she makes the comfort in heart and mind,— the 
home atmosphere,— by attention to herself,— to mind, soul, heart and 
body. 

Look in your mirror. Study yourself,— are you 
_, . satisfied? Is your complexion clear f Does it ex- 

press the clearness of your life? 

Are there discolorations or blemishes in the skin,— which sym- 
bolize imperfections within? 

Are there wrinkles?— Do they bespeak a heart at rest, a mind in 
harmony— in poise? 

Are your cheeks rosy?— Do they bespeak warm blood, circu- 
lating freely and nourishing all tissues? 

Are your eyes expressive,— lustrous,— bespeaking a strong soul 
with rested nerves? 

Are the pores fine, or large and coarse,— showing inattention to 
breathing, circulation and diet? 

Are your teeth white,— reminding us of the whiteness of ivory? 
Do your nails meet the ideal which describes them as delicate 
pink, shell-like ornaments? 

Does it not depend upon the attitude of mind with which we 
approach the subject? We may approach it in a superficial mood, 
or as a sweet, serene duty, developing the artistic side of our natures. 
We may make it the most gratifying, educative study. 

If you possess personal charm, would you not like to know the 
simple, sensible ways of improving and of preserving it? 

"Th* body is tlie robe of th* spirit.' 



8 BEAUTY A DUTY 

God put beauty into every grain of sand, into 
E , every cloud of the sky, into every leaf and vine and 

bud and flower, into every shadow and high light. 
Look where man will, beauty is everywhere;— and where in all life 
is a more beautiful production of Nature 's handiwork than the human 
form! It is Nature's masterpiece, with the God-head pervading and 
speaking and moving through it. 

Nothing in all life is more elevating, more refining, more 
ennobling than the study of the beauties in Nature and art,— than 
the coral tint of the flesh, the glint of the hair, the depth of the eye, 
the symmetrical curves of the figure, and the delicate lines of the 
neck, supporting the head, as the stem of a dainty flower supports 
its blossom. 

Curves, lines and hinges in all man's creative works are copied 
from the human figure,— yet deeper and more than the physical 
beauty is the suggestive power of the spirit— culminated in man 
alone. 

The purpose of the Creator in surrounding man with these 
beauties and endowing him with eyes to see and mind to appreciate 
was surely to inspire him to reach up to a cultivation through their 
study,— to show him a beautiful purpose therein. 

Is not all beauty eternal? As it sinks into man's consciousness, 
does it not stamp its impress upon the soul? 

In the study of the embryo of human life,— the spirit— shall we 
forget the expression of the physical beauties which foster its devel- 
opment? In the study of the spiritual, shall we forget the study of 
the delicate home given to it? As a frame gives a setting to a beau- 
tiful picture, so doth the body reflect the soul. The silken tresses 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 9 

glint the sunlight,— the pearly whiteness of the teeth, the coral tints 
of the hands, the light and shades given to the face by the softness 
of the hair, all speak of a subtlety,— alluring— just beyond our reach. 

When I see a human form with an abnormal amount of flesh, 
suggesting to the beholder the predominance of the physical over 
the mental and the spiritual, or see one round-shouldered and 
stooped, with cramped, bony, angular chest and sallow complexion, 
I am reminded of a gnarled and crooked tree and feel like crying 
out: 

Oh, my sister, arise to your birthright of beauty, light and 
power. Stand upright. Do not despoil God's temple but lend your 
share to the beauty and use of the world. Remember that beauty is 
use— it is education— refinement. Lift head and heart and soul, and 
drink in the beauties of life. As you drink your fill, Arise! Study 
to express these beauties through the clearness and color of your 
skin and hair and through beautiful proportions of your figure. 

Let your grace of movement express the clearness of your inner 
life; 

Let the cleanly body, with hands, hair and skin well groomed, 
express the cleanness of life; 

Let your upright body express the uplift and courage and 
strength of your soul. 

As you keep yourself wholesome without, you feel the whole- 
someness and self-respect within, and your life has a deeper satis- 
faction as you realize the serene, educative dignity of your being. 

Treat your body with the dignity and reverence you would a 
sacred temple and you will not fritter away time upon it;— you will 
form the habit of doing the right thing systematically. 

"We are too close to God for doubt or fear." 



10 BEAUTY A DUTY 

"God made your body and He made it great; 
It has a guest of might and high estate. 
Keep the shrine noble, handsome, high and whole, 
For in it lives God's guest, a kingly soul." 

"How much time this all takes!" you say. Yes, 
No Time but how much time do we waste? 

Let us save the time we spend at the bargain 
counter, or upon cards, furniture, or in cooking fancy, unhealthful 
dishes, or doing fancy work. 

Let us save more of the time we spend at the fashionable shops 
and restaurants, in the reading of inferior books and sensational 
newspapers, in idle conversation and gossip, in unedifying and non- 
intellectual social functions and in unnecessary features of house- 
hold work and devote it to the dignified work of caring for the 
temple of the soul. 

A figure well groomed, well proportioned and gracefully carried 
requires neat but not expensive clothing. It takes no longer to dress 
the hair becomingly than unbecomingly; it takes no longer to wash 
the face the right way than the wrong way, when we have studied 
ourselves and formed the right habits. 

Just learn the thing best for you, then form the habit of doing 
it, and you will not flounder. You will cease to experiment. Habit 
is a great conserver of energy. 

Keep the blood circulating freely and lots of air in the lungs, 
that the body may be wholesome and cleanly within, as well as 
without. 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 11 

The woman who has beauty of features has a better 
p opportunity to make her beauty of character felt. 

' ' Handsome is that handsome does ' ' will do for some, 
but the philosophy of the old maxim, though good as far as it goes, 
falls short. The strongest character cannot exert an influence for 
the betterment of others until she has the attention of those she 
wishes to better, and much energy is lost in battling obstacles and 
opposition to gain an audience. This very battling hardens the 
features at times. So, too, does the intensity of thought. 

An attractive woman never needs to strive for attention.— It 
is her& and she has every advantage over her plain sister who gives 
little attention to the niceties of her toilet. When outer charms have 
won for her attention and admiration, her inner charm, strength of 
character and true worth will be the more readily felt and recognized. 

The woman of strong character needs most to cultivate softness 
in facial lines, in expression of features and manner; time thus 
spent will be to the advantage of the world as well as to herself. 

Few men have time to spend in the art gal- 
Men Are . . . . . . 

Lovers of Beauty lenes ' Dut nearly every man has a keenly artistic 

sense and appreciates beauty in woman,— the 
beauty in figure and feature, the clear skin, the luxuriance and gloss 
of well kept, well dressed hair, the sparkle of lustrous eyes, the gleam 
of teeth well cared for, the daintiness and grace of expressive hands. 
He is cheered, rested and uplifted by such beauty, just as a woman, 
who has time for the art galleries, is feasted and refreshed by beauty 
on canvas or in marble. Some beauty of feature attracts him first,— 
the ideas and character next. 



"Think truly, and thy thoughts 
Shall the world's famine feed;" 



12 BEAUTY A DUTY 

A woman of real, physical beauty, if accompanied by beauty of 
thought and life, is a woman of power. Who has not marveled at 
the favor and consideration bestowed upon some soft-eyed, gentle 
woman ? 

Crowds make way for her. 

Busy men stop to listen to her. 

Men of influence use their power to help her gain what she 
desires. 

She is first to be served at shop or table. 

She is the center of an admiring group at every social gather- 
ing. 

Women as well as men love and admire her. 

She is a leader,— the most influential kind of leader. 

Why? 

Because she is beautiful; and if you look closely, you will find 
that the culture of heart and mind and the refined nature, have led 
her to give careful attention to the details of her toilet. 

True, the care of the skin, the nails and the 
Make the Most . „ . . „ . , . 

f Y G'ft r are su P e] ™ cia l an< J- rea l beauty is from withm, 

but the outward care expresses the inner culture. 

However well a woman may look to these outer things, she can- 
not be truly attractive, cannot express her highest, most cultivated 
thoughts, cannot possess the fullest degree of magnetism,— winning 
for her friends and influence— unless she carries herself well, has a 
well proportioned figure and enjoys good health, because these have 
a dynamite force all their own. 

But, even as we know these last things can be accomplished by 
nearly all women, so do we know that the "finishing touches" are 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 13 

possible to every woman; and she, who neglects making the most of 
the personal gifts she possesses, is not only "burying her talents" 
and so disobeying a Divine injunction, but she is losing a great deal 
of enjoyment which rightfully belongs to her and is failing to con- 
tribute to the beauty and to the uplift of the world. 

The cultivation of beauty exerts a reaction 

Women Happier ,, . ,. ., . „ . a 

if Att t' upon the individual, as well as an influence upon 

her friends. When a woman looks her best, she 
feels better, can accomplish more and is. happier. 

"If the ill spirit have so fair a house, 
Good things will strive to dwell with't." 

— Shakespeare. 

This is as it should be. 

What woman is not happier when she finds, as she looks in her 
mirror, that she is looking particularly attractive? 

The satisfaction with self as the eye dwells upon some feature 
of her toilet, fresh and wholesome, has a wonderful effect upon her 
mental poise. She sees life through different eyes. She is happier 
and her family and friends are happier in consequence. 

This happiness is the satisfaction of mind, which should always 
result as the eye rests upon beauty. The same satisfaction is real- 
ized upon seeing a beautiful flower or a beautiful landscape. 

It may be that she has given her face a massage and in conse- 
quence she looks fresh, her skin is clear and her eyes bright. 

It may be that by reason of her care of the hair, it is glossy and 
abundant, or she may have discovered a more becoming way of 
dressing it. 



"Speak truly, and each word of thine 
Shall b* a fruitful seed;" 



14 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Her nails may be particularly well manicured. In fact, any 
toilet accessory which makes her better satisfied with herself affects 
her mental poise, her eyes sparkle, and her friends reflect her mental 
atmosphere. She has a better time. She enjoys life. 

One does not need expensive clothing. A face radiating mental 
poise, a well groomed body, clothed neatly and carried with grace 
and dignity is its own aristocracy. 

Many a woman knows that from the popular stand- 
Attraction . . . . 
versus point, she cannot be beautiful to the unthinking judge. 

Beauty There are many, also, who modestly under-rate them- 
selves and are inclined to under-value the beauty points 
they possess. 

Few, very few there are who have not some redeeming feature 
which distinguishes them among their friends. It may be a beautiful 
skin, a beautiful head of hair, or a beautiful tint or pleasing manner 
of dressing the hair, or beautiful hands, nails, teeth, brows, eyes, 
ears or feet,— they may have one or many good points. 

Strive to make the very most of your distinguishing features, 
just as a florist strives to bring to perfection a beautiful flower, and 
you will be adding to the culture and beauty of the world, while your 
family will delight in the marks of improvement, and be rested as 
they look upon you. 

Every ivoman can be attractive and charming in some particular, 
and she can be well groomed and pleasing in all. 

We must bear in mind that we please first through the eye, then 
through the ear. 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 15 

Whatever her motive, whether to please her hus- 
Beauty band or to win a sweetheart, or whether because she 

At S' enjoys the feeling of power and satisfaction which 

At Eighty rightfully belongs to every woman, every charm a 
woman possesses should be developed to best advantage ; 
and many she does not dream possible to her can be "caught and 
held fast," even to the very last flicker of life's sunset. 

Let us dwell on that word "developed"— a developing beauty. 

Every woman can acquire it— can possess it in increasing degree 
as years are added unto her. 

Young or old, no woman's skin need be pimpled, wrinkled, dry 
or sallow. 

It is possible for every woman to become a beautiful old lady; 
but it is when Time first begins to leave his stealthy footprints, that 
she must look to her laurels and "Attend!" 

Beauty is not monopolized by youth. The most noted beauties 
have won their fame in more mature years, when expression of 
character and culture have been added to the beauty endowed by 
nature. 

A beautiful young woman is beautiful because of form, features 
or complexion— her natural endowment, perhaps, well cared for. If 
she value these, she will seek to learn how she may preserve them; 
and if she would retain her power to charm, she will seek to develop 
the beauty, which springs from culture of mind and beauty of 
thought,— thus adding character to mere physical beauty and pro- 
ducing yearly increasing charm. 

It is upon a good constitution that the aged must largely depend 
in the resisting of disease ; and this same care and realization of the 



"Live truly, and thy life shall be 
A great and noble creed." 



16 BEAUTY A DUTY 

individual's physical best is what helps to produce the beloved old,— 
the aged person upon whom one loves to look and enjoys having 
about. 

True beauty, genuine beauty, influential beauty radiates the more 
powerful light because it emanates from an exhaustless, ever devel- 
oping source, with health of body and mind for its well spring; and 
even as a reflector makes the lantern rays brighter, so true beauty, 
that which is from within, is intensified, glorified, in proportion to 
the inner beauty of character, which is outwardly reflected through 
the facial expression. 

Holding the head high does not make a princess. "The King's 
Daughter is all-glorious within," says the Psalmist. For this very 
reason there is greatest hope for the woman who desires to be 
beautiful. 

Unhappy, lonely wives who are letting your 
You Have Won, 
You Must Hold nusD ands drift away from you, look well to your 

personal appearance. 

Wives to whom life has become a humdrum monotony, turn to 
studying beauty within yourself and seek to express it outwardly; 
put on a becoming gown, massage the lines out of your face, dress 
your hair becomingly; make it silky, glossy and abundant; make the 
hands soft ; manicure the nails afresh ; make the very most of your- 
selves and watch the silent influence. 

It is not enough that a woman beautify her husband's home and 
cater to his stomach. She must call out and preserve in herself the 
charms which attracted him to her in the days of courtship;— she 
must remain the winning sweetheart, and she can accomplish this by 
growing in grace of body as she grows in grace of mind and spirit. 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 17 

Greater charm and talent are sometimes required for holding 
than for winning. 

The lives of many husbands*, wives and families, too, become 
sordid and uninteresting,— not only to others, but to themselves, 
because they lose the spirit of progress, the impulse to educate and 
uplift those about them, to exert a refining influence upon others and 
they become careless of themselves and of their appearance. 

In order to maintain her influence, therefore, a 
B j, . woman must keep both body and mind fresh and 

active. She should not overlook the importance of 
such details as preserving a youthful figure and a springing step, 
carrying herself in correct poise, walking correctly and so caring for 
her body as to constantly give outward expression to the beauty of 
mind and character, which should be maturing to full beauty within. 

Right here, let us be frank with ourselves:— 
We To Be? "What kind of old ladies are we to be? 

Shall we become sallow, hollow-faced, wrinkled, 
scrawny, fussy, meddlesome, peevish old women, whom most honest 
folks wish were out of the way? 

Shall we become pudgy, over-fat, sloppy, greasy old women, 
whom none can comfortably endure to have around? 

Or, shall we become the sunny, cheerful, unselfish, sweet-to-see 
old ladies., whom everyone adores and respects and for whom young 
and old gladly make a place, often with sacrifice of their own per- 
sonal comfort? Is it to be fading beauty or developing beauty for 
us— for you? 



"Whatever the weather may be," says he, 
Wliatevcr the weather may be, 
It's the songs ye sing, and the smiles ye wear. 
That's makin' the sunshine everywhere." 

— RlLBY. 



18 BEAUTY A DUTY 

You are thinking only of the now? 

eau y reserv -^^ "then" will be "now" some day, 

Means Watchfulness "" 

remember, and the making of ourselves the 

best we can in every "now" makes the "now" of every to-morrow 

happier for ourselves and for those with whom we come in contact. 

The beautiful woman must never cease in her pleasant duty of 
preserving and developing her charms— of face and form, as well as 
of thought and manner; and the ugliest of us must, must, if happiness 
is any aim in life, set about the sacred duty of banishing every trace 
of whatever is turning us against the world. 

Yes, ' ' us against the world, ' ' and not the world against us. 

The world is with us, if we are with the world. 

Our happiness., our success, our popularity is largely what we 
make it and outward beauty reflects inner cheer, to the possessor, 
first and most,— next to the observer. 

Being beautiful— becoming so— remaining so 
Largely a Matter . n n . . „ , , 

, K • h — 1S L&rgely a matter of knowing how. 

The cultivation of beauty is an art, just as 

the singing of a song, the painting of a fine picture, or the writing 

of a stirring poem is an art; and in every "art" "knowledge is 

power, ' ' and perfection is gained through practice. 

The naturally beautiful girl or woman needs to study herself 

in order to preserve her divine gift; while she who has not been so 

blessed by nature, should and may, learn to greatly improve her 

form, her features, her skin, eyes, hair, teeth, hands and nails. By 

doing this she will have the consolation of knowing she is making 

the most of her natural gifts and if, at the same time, she develops 

the mental in proportion to the physical, she cannot fail to become 

a power in whatever circles she moves. 

"Let the howlers howl, 
and the growlers growl, 
and the prowlers prowl, 
and the gee-gaws go it; 

Behind the night, there is 

plenty of light, and 

things are all right and 

I KNOW IT." 



THE CULTIVATION OF BEAUTY 19 

Most women realize so fully the impor- 
Able to T (tee tance of cultivating and preserving those exte- 

rior charms which appeal to the eye, that they 
are too ready to try this, that and the other remedy, regardless of 
its source, — with the sad results, too often seen, of real beauty 
marred forever by the application of some harmful drug, or the fol- 
lowing of "directions," put together to fill a newspaper column. 

For example, the skin varies in different individuals. A treat- 
ment or lotion affecting one skin or one kind of hair, beneficially, 
sometimes has exactly the opposite effect upon another. 

Health, beauty of thought, a well proportioned 
Beauty's figure and good poise are perhaps the first requisites to 
Requisites genuine beauty; and in helping thousands of women to 
gain these through my course in Kemedial Exercises, I 
have become interested in studying how women may cultivate and 
preserve those outward expressions of beauty which may be called 
superficial, yet which are quite as important as others more difficult 
to obtain. 

The satisfaction derived from helping thirty thousand women 
to regain health and beauty of figure and carriage has led me to wish 
to help and guide them in the "finishing touches"; in correct bathing 
and care of the skin, in the care and preservation of the hair, hands, 
eyes, teeth, etc., and in the selection of toilet articles, which are effi- 
cient, reliable and harmless, and which are suitable to the individual. 

The desire to have my pupils understand how to care for them- 
selves, how to select and reject from the hundreds of preparations 
one sees advertised and reads in "beauty columns" has led me to 
thus deeply study the subject of the outward expression of beauty. 

My pupils in Remedial Exercise and Bodily Expression do not 



"If I can put one touch of rosy sunshine into the 
life of any man or woman I shall feci that I have 
worked with Cod." — George Macdonald. 



20 BEAUTY A DUTY 

begin at the surface, but seek at the foundation. They seek health, 
and in attaining it win grace and suppleness of figure. They then 
need but the "finishing touches" to complete the personality that 
wins. 

The "glow" of the cosmetic is perishable, and "drops" put in 
the eyes to give luster, are dangerous. 

The beauty which is genuine is not like some people 's manners, 
"a veneer over essential barbarism." It is the result of health and 
intelligent care, and is most attractive, because genuine. With the 
cultivation of this kind of beauty, moreover, has come a mental 
awakening which has transformed the facial expression. 






Chapter II 
THE HAIR 



Responding so readily to intelligent treatment as it does, there 
would seem to be no reason why every woman, in health, may not 
have an abundance of soft, glossy hair. 

No matter how beautiful the face may be, if the hair be thin 
and harsh and show lack of care, it detracts from the softness of 
expression, while abundance of hair, artistically arranged, brings 
out the best lines of face and feature, softening all of the harsh lines 
and angles. 

Beauty of character is a more lasting charm than beauty of 
features; yet, it is unmistakably true, that one with attractive out- 
ward charms has every advantage in winning and holding attention 
until she has the opportunity of making her beauty of character and 
life known. 

No woman can afford to ignore the power of physical beauty. 
We educate through the eye, we beautify and refine through the eye 
as well as through the ear, and the outward should be a fitting expres- 
sion of the culture of the inner being. 

A fair quantity of hair may be carried to old age. It is not 
necessary that it grow thin and scraggly. There are a goodly number 



Do not lose sight of the fact that physical beauty 
enhances, but never supplants the beauty of the spir- 
itual — of mind, of character. 

21 



22 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of people who reach a ripe age with abundant hair and nothing 
lends a softer light to a sweet, old face than a delicate framing of 
soft white tresses. 

Women would cease to be attractive if their hair were not fairly 
abundant and becomingly dressed. The latter result is more easy 
of attainment than the former and in view of the increase in the 
number of comparatively young women, whose hair is prematurely 
gray or losing its life and luster, I feel that time and thought should 
be devoted to the study of causes and remedies. 

The care of the hair is worthy the study of every woman who 
would appear at her best, and certainly beauty and wholesome 
expression are among woman's strongest charms. 

When a woman finds she is losing more than a few hairs each 
time she dresses it, she should look to her physical condition, at once, 
and seek to correct weak nerves and disordered vital organs, instead 
of rushing to the drug store and purchasing some advertised hair 
restorer or tonic, expecting it to do the impossible for her. 

There is no harm in using certain well known and reliable tonics 
for the hair, however, (which matter will be taken up elsewhere in 
these pages ) , but they must be given only a small share of the credit, 
when good results follow, as it is the circulation promoted while 
rubbing in the tonic that brings about the best result. 

The first gray or faded hair, or the appearance of too many fila- 
ments on your comb, as you manipulate and dress your hair, should 
serve as a warning to "take a stitch in time" and so change your 
habits of living, diet and periods for rest that nature may have a 
chance to repair wasted tissues, build up a good circulation and 
strengthen the nerves. New nourishment brought to the roots, which 



THE HAIR 23 

are still alive but inactive, will check the fading and whitening hair 
and cause new hairs to come in their natural color. 

The renewal of hair is of necessity a very slow process, but if 
the physical condition be kept at normal and gentle massage of the 
scalp repeated for a few minutes every day, most excellent results 
in hair growth can be accomplished in a very few months. 

The hair reaches its best point of development in early maturity, 
but if good blood and a good circulation are maintained in later years 
and no nerve depletion takes place, through illness, worry or undue 
strain, the hair will keep its healthful appearance and not fade nor 
lose its color nor luster till long past middle life. 

I wish most strongly to impress upon you the fal- 
Authoritv ^ ac ^ °^ re ty m & u P on newspaper articles in regard to the 
hair, the skin, face creams or hair tonics. Most men 
and women, who have given a thorough study to this work and who 
are able to write upon it scientifically, are busy and demand a more 
permanent medium than newspapers for their work. 

All who understand the physiology of the hair and skin realize 
the very great harm that is being done by men and women who are 
paid so much to fill columns along certain lines and who give direc- 
tions in these columns that are absolutely unscientific. It is sur- 
prising how many follow such directions or apply hair lotions and 
tonics, without knowing whether the particular treatment is suited 
to the individual case. 

What is food for one person's hair is not food for another, and 
each woman should study her own condition. She should know the 
virtue of the ingredients in a tonic or lotion and then decide whether 
that particular one is suited to the present condition of her hair. 

"They might not need me 
Yet they might — 
/'// let my heart be 
Just in sight. 
A smile so small 

As mine, might be 
Precisely their necessity." 
— Emily Dickinson. 



24 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is not safe to apply a lotion, just because it helped a friend, if 
your condition is not the same as your friend's. 

But you say: "A tonic is a tonic." Yes, but the ingredients 
differ. Your friend may have needed alcohol to stimulate the nerves 
of the scalp, while your nerves may need soothing. She may have 
needed a little oil for a dry, contracted scalp, while yours may need 
an astringent. 

The intelligence of woman often seems lacking, in her mental 
attitude toward drugs, patent medicines, hair tonics, face creams 
and powders. 

Woman must awaken, must use her own mentality and common 
sense, instead of merely imitating or following what "So and So 
says." The spasmodic, vigorous rubbing on of a tonic, because it 

helped Mrs. should be replaced by an intelligent study of self 

and patient work for a few minutes each day upon exercises which, 
together with correct breathing and proper food, keep the strength 
of all vital organs. 

The day of expatiating upon one 's imperfections, as if they were 
marks of distinction has passed, and instead of talking about 
them, one now feels more like hiding until she has used intelligent 
care in correcting them. 

One must look deeper than the hair for the cause of 

CdUSGS of 

Poor Hair ^ s i m P over i sne d condition. Since the growth of the hair 
is from the root, and since it receives its nourishment 
from the blood, it will be readily seen that the chief efforts to pro- 
mote its growth and strength must be directed to a good circulation 
of blood, pure and rich in nutriment, and particularly to a free circu- 
lation of it about the hair follicles. 



THE HAIR 25 

The following are some of the physical conditions affecting the 
hair: 

1— Poor circulation and the consequent failure to thoroughly 
nourish the roots. 

2— Failure to breathe deeply and fully as a regular habit and 
the consequent failure to purify the blood and to tone the nerves. 

3— Constipation— this allows the poisonous waste of the body 
to remain in the blood affecting all skin tissues, including the hair. 

4— Indigestion, of either the stomach or intestines, which means 
that the food is not properly put in condition for the nourishment 
to be absorbed by the system. 

5— Rheumatism or gout, showing a too acid condition of the 
blood. (This is largely dependent upon the circulation and the elim- 
ination of waste from the intestines, skin, kidneys and lungs.) 

6— Abnormal condition of the nerves which prevents the free 
circulation of blood through the arteries, veins and capillaries of 
the scalp. 

7— Anaemia, which means that the blood does not contain the 
right proportion of red corpuscles to carry sufficient oxygen to the 
roots of the hair. (This is dependent again upon the circulation 
and the proper food.) 

8— A torpid liver, which does not properly form new blood 
corpuscles nor properly convert the poisons of the system into harm- 
less compounds. 

Should the hair remain thin or the scalp inflamed or infected 
with scurf for any length of time after an illness, a specialist upon 
health should be consulted. Measles, typhoid or scarlet fever often 
affect the hair in this way. It may be noted here that those suffering 



26 BEAUTY A DUTY 

with rheumatic tendencies often suffer also with dandruff, thin hair, 
grayness or baldness. 

Before reaching any conclusion, however, it is well to ascertain 
that the trouble is not caused by a lack of care and cleanliness of the 
scalp. Clogged pores and glands or a congestion of the scalp may 
be the prime cause. 

If massage manipulations of the scalp, which cause a freer action 
of the capillaries and bring more blood about the roots, do not result 
in a better tone to the hair, one should attend to regular exercise, 
deep breathing and a proper, nutritious diet, thus bringing more 
nourishment into the blood itself. 

All of the hair tonics and hair growers in existence will not take 
the place of this nourishment ; in fact, it is a fallacy to suppose that 
lotions rubbed onto the scalp are going to enter into the blood forma-* 
tion and nourish the hair. Their help is in stimulating the nerves, 
which, in turn, stimulate the blood supply. 

The old idea that nourishment can be conveyed to the roots of 
the hair by rubbing in fatty substances is absurd. The virtue of oil 
rubbed into a dry scalp is to relax the tissues about the capillaries 
and the massage necessary to rub the oil in, brings to the scalp a 
supply of nourishing blood. 

All food to build the hair, as well as the nails or any body tissue 
is carried through the blood and whatever causes impoverished blood 
must affect every part. 

Imperfect circulation throughout the body with all of the ills 
resulting from it, is at the root of most cases of poor hair. 

The condition of the hair shows very accurately the condition 
of the system. When it is dry, lifeless and brittle, it indicates that 



THE HAIR 27 

the body is being improperly nourished, but when it stands up well 
from the scalp and has luster, strength and brightness, the bodily 
condition is usually good. 

The sympathy of the hair with the rest of the body may be noted 
in the case of horses. Change in water, which has not been agreeing 
with a horse, will make an entire change in the glose of the horse's 
coat. 

In fact, it is practically useless to attempt to treat the hair with- 
out first putting the general system in good condition. This can only 
be done by promoting a proper digestion, which will put the food 
in condition to be absorbed by the system; by maintaining a proper 
activity of the intestines, that the nourishment may be absorbed; 
by creating a forceful circulation to carry a full supply of blood to 
all parts of the system and by bringing about a normal activity of 
all tissues and nerves, that the nourishment in the blood may be 
assimilated. The impurities of the body must also be properly 
thrown off through the natural channels of the kidneys, intestines, 
pores of the skin and lungs, else toxins will remain in the system. 

It will be noted, then, that it is often the physical culturist or the 
physician who gives exercises to create a good circulation and also 
outlines a diet, to whom one should go when troubled with failing 
hair, instead of to the hair-dressing parlors, because if the blood be 
loaded with poisons, no amount of massage to bring that impure 
blood to the hair follicles, nor no amount of lotions put upon the 
scalp to stimulate the tiny nerve ends, will correct the poisonous 
condition. 

The fact that it is the nourishing condition of the blood, which 
feeds the hair and makes it luxuriant, more than the care of the hair 



28 BEAUTY A DUTY 

itself, is very definitely shown in the heavy and beautiful hair, which 
we often find upon those who wash their hair but twice or three times 
a year and who give little time to brushing it,— still the scalp is thor- 
oughly nourished and the hair grows, while many who are much more 
cleanly and give much more time to these things, have poorly nour- 
ished scalps and very thin, scraggly hair. 

The latter may be accounted for in the condition of the nerves. 
Those who give the body more care are usually more intelligent. 
Their daily lives call for more nerve force; this retards the blood 
supply to the capillaries about the hair roots, preventing the nourish- 
ment of the hair, even though the blood be in normal condition; or 
it may be that the blood does not contain a proper proportion of the 
chemicals forming the hair. 

The demands of present living, which call for such a large 
expenditure of nerve force and vitality and the total disregard of 
the laws of health and right living, must be held accountable for 
many cases of poorly nourished hair, premature grayness, falling 
hair and baldness. Nerve tension must be relaxed, a stronger 
vitality and reserve force built up and more normal habits of living 
established, if nature is to do her work rightly. 

Hair roots deprived of proper nourishment soon grow weak and 
die, just as plants droop and fade if robbed of nourishing soil, water 
and sunshine. 

Once a hair root dies there is no medicament known to science, 
which will restore it. 

It must be borne in mind that the nerves play 

Upon the Hair one °^ ^ e mos ^ important parts in the nurture 

of the hair. Each hair grows from a papilla of 



THE HAIR 29 

the skin and the nerves form a network about the papillae, one 
nerve twining itself about each hair follicle. 

The direction of the larger nerve trunks is illustrated in Fig. B. 
These nerves branch and branch until they form a perfect network 
about each capillary of the skin. 

Overstrained nerves and habits of worry, contract the capillary 
walls and affect the amount of blood in the capillaries; the blood 
in the capillaries about the hair, of course, affects the amount of 
nourishment in the hair itself. 

Overstrained nerves also affect the amount of pigment in the 
skin and the hair, and are one chief cause, therefore, of hair turning 
gray. In cases of extreme neuralgia of the head, the pigment is 
sometimes so affected that the hair grows gray in patches. When 
the hair has turned gray, by reason of this overstrenuous condi- 
tion,— if it be not too long continued,— it sometimes regains its 
normal coloring when the tension is relaxed. 

In some affections of the skin of the scalp, the corium becomes 

contracted, the nerves are pressed upon, and the root of each hair 

seems sore to the touch. In such cases, an ointment well rubbed into 

the scalp to relieve the contraction is salutary. 

The nerves controlling the scalp have their 
Ncccsssrv 
Dal E 's direct centers in the medulla oblongata, and any 

exercise for the spinal column,— more particularly 

for the upper spine,— or heat applied for relief from nerve tension 

here, will have a salutary effect upon these controlling nerves. 

Therefore, those ivho ivish glossy, abundant hair must attend: 

To the condition of the nervous system. 

To definite exercise to promote a good circulation of blood, 



30 BEAUTY A DUTY 

To proper food, that the quality of the blood itself may be regulated, 
To the normal action of the liver, intestines, shin and kidneys, that all 

poisonous matter be thrown off, and 
To deep breathing that the blood may be supplied with the normal 
amount of oxygen. 

Daily massage for the scalp and exercises for the neck, are inval- 
uable and with a little direction every woman can massage her own 
scalp. Three minntes given to this each morning or each evening 
will produce better results than a half hour once a week by an expert 
hair-dresser. 

In almost every case, whether the hair be lost through nerve 
strain, illness or misuse, if the blood be purified and nourished, its 
health and vigor can be regained with a few moments of intelligent, 
daily care, and this fact should cause every woman whose hair has 
grown thin or harsh, or who has lost the fluffy abundance of the hair 
line about the face, to take courage. 

Few operators who treat the hair know anything about the 
chemical composition of preparations used, but since these chemicals 
are not absorbed into the hair from outward applications, this chem- 
ical knowledge is not absolutely essential, however desirable for the 
work it may be. 

Hair tonics are useful, as containing antiseptics where needed, 
or alcohol to stimulate the nerve ends, or oil to lubricate the scalp 
as necessities require, but massage, required to rub hair tonics into 
the scalp, is the chief agency in quickening the blood circulation 
about the roots of the hair, and is more salutary than the tonic 
itself. By referring to chapters on "Hair Tonics and Massage" 
their virtues will be noted. 



THE HAIR 31 

It must be remembered that it is much easier 
Necessity of 
P t A t' ^° P reven t na i r f rom falling out or from turning 

gray than to correct the difficulty once it has devel- 
oped. Everything depends upon early treatment, before a disease 
has gone too far, and let me remind you here that dandruff, which 
is so common an affection of the scalp, is an actual disease and that 
most causes of premature gray hair or baldness may be traced to it. 
The healthy condition of the scalp should be attended to from 
childhood, if one is to reach old age with an abundant growth of 
healthy scalp tissue and glossy hair. Many bald heads date from 
improper treatment of the scalp in the cradle. 

c . r Climate and difference in the character of food seem 

Hair to have much to do with the shade of the hair. The farther 

north we go, such as Norway and Sweden, the lighter the 
hair, while in tropical climate, dark hair prevails. 

The black or brown color of hair is due to the melanin which 
is distributed throughout the cortex. There seems to be several 
varieties of this pigment, that of the human hair containing less 
nitrogen and more sulphur than that of some others. 

The chemical constituents of the hair differ. Under ordinary 
conditions it is composed of about 50 parts carbon, 6y 2 parts 
hydrogen, 17% parts nitrogen, 5 parts sulphur and about 20 parts 
oxygen. Of course this varies with certain conditions and with cer- 
tain climates. 

Red or auburn hair contains a reddish oil, a goodly proportion 
of sulphur and a small quantity of iron. Dark hair, as a rule, con- 
tains more iron than blond hair. Blond hair contains a whitish oil 

3 



32 BEAUTY A DUTY 

and sulphate of magnesia. Silver white or gray hair contains 
sulphate of lime in large proportion. 

A rather interesting investigation upon the relation of the color 
of the hair to character and temperament has recently come to my 
attention: Some man, (presumably a brunette) took exception to 
artists and writers always portraying angels as blonds. To disprove 
the truth of their inference, he investigated a number of jails and 
prisons and, to his gratification, learned from statistics and observa- 
tion, that a very large proportion of the inmates were blonds. He 
states that the crimes committed by blonds are the petty smaller 
crimes and he infers that they are less able to combat the trials of 
life and resort to crime in their efforts to keep up. He states also, 
that the real dastardly, murderous acts, requiring dogged courage, 
are committed by brunettes of a decided type. 

Whether further investigation would bear out this character 

test, or not, the facts are interesting. 

Being a non-conductor of heat, the hair pro- 

_.. . , r tt • tects the head from exposure to cold in the 

Physiology of Hair ^ 

winter and from the rays of the sun in summer. 
Placed as it is at the entrance to the various openings of the body, 
it protects against bacteria, dust, insects and other foreign matter, 
which if taken into the system would work injury, as is illustrated 
by the small hairs about the nostrils, which filter the air before it 
passes into the lungs. 

Hair is very elastic and may be stretched to about one-third of 
its length. 

The ideal quantity of hair in woman is from four to five ounces 
and from twenty-five to thirty inches in length. Its average life is , 



THE HAIR 33 

from two to six years, the growth varying from four to six inches 
a year. 

The hair consists of (1) the Marrow or Medulla, which is absent 
in wooly hair or in the hairs found during the first year of life; 
(2) the Cortex, which surrounds the medulla and consists of rigid, 
horny, fibrous cells,— in and between these cells are the pigment 
granules, which give the hair its color; (3) the Cuticle, or the cover- 
ing, which consists of horny layers somewhat resembling fish scales, 
sloping from the root of the hair downward to its end. In brushing 
the hair from the roots downward, these horny layers are stroked 
and the dirt removed; thus the brushing of the hair lends a gloss to 
the scales. In brushing upwards towards the roots, as in matting the 
hair, the tiny scales are fluffed and broken, the cortex of the hair is 
injured, the matting of the hair consequently causes it to break off. 
Figure A shows a section of the skin through 
c . which the hair grows diagonally. 

Hair grows, not along the shaft, but from an 
increase of the cells in the root upon the surface of the papilla 
(see cut) ; these cells represent the matrix of the hair. The hair 
root grows from a sac-like pouch in the corium of the skin known 
as the follicle. The hair follicle embraces the lower two-thirds of 
the portion of the hair imbedded in the skin. As layer after layer 
is formed, the hair is raised higher within its follicle. When it 
reaches its full growth, it is gradually lifted up from the papilla and 
falls out, a new hair forming from the same papilla. 

The hair follicle, when in good health, is firmly fixed within the 
papilla and the hair will not come out unless it has reached its full 
growth, or unless some disease, lack of nourishment or unnatural 



34 BEAUTY A DUTY 

condition about the papilla prevents its. growth; therefore, one need 
not refrain from brushing the hair for fear of loosening it from the 
root, because unless the hair be ready to fall, by reason of under- 
nourishment of the blood, or an unnatural or diseased condition here, 
the brushing of the hair will not bring it out. 

Force used to pull out hairs is, however, unnatural and bruises 
the flesh about the root of the hair. 

There is no physiological basis for the statement that the pulling 
out of one gray hair will cause more to grow. 

As long as the hair follicle is in a healthy state, it will produce 
more hair bulbs and new hairs will grow from old roots, but the 
activity of the bulb is weakened by impoverished blood and weakened 
nerves, just as every other part of the skin is weakened. 

When removing the fatty substance, which adheres 
B - , to the scalp at birth, great care must be exercised. 

Saturate well with olive or sweet almond oil and wrap 
a piece of soft linen around the child's head, allowing it to remain 
awhile; then wash the head thoroughly but gently with castile soap 
and warm water, being very careful as to the purity of the soap. If 
the scalp does not clear with one application of the oil, it should be 
repeated daily until clean. Always wash the head with warm water 
before putting on another application. 

In case of crusty formation on the scalp the use of glycozone 
and warm water, one half ounce each, is advisable. This should be 
applied with a sponge morning and evening and allowed to remain 
a few minutes ; then rinse off with warm soft water and dry with a 
piece of old linen, after which dust with talcum powder. 

Do not, under any circumstances, use a fine comb for removal 



THE HAIR 35 

of the little scales from the scalp of a child, as it tears the delicate 
skin and starts irritation, just as a scab re-forms if torn away. If 
it is kept clean and allowed to fall away in the time allowed for its 
natural shedding, it will not re-form. The oiling-, as above described, 
is a much better plan to adopt. 

Use a little brush with very soft bristles about an inch long for 
the young baby's hair. 

Always brush with the "set" of the hair, as explained on page 51, 
and thoroughly cleanse the comb and the brush once or twice a week. 

Under no condition allow the nurse, or others, to put the child's 
brush near their own heads, as dandruff may thus be commuuicated 
to the child. Every mother will readily recognize the danger of this. 
The care of children's hair is a subject of great 
H . importance. Unless the proper foundation is laid in 

childhood, it is difficult and sometimes impossible to cor- 
rect defects. A healthy scalp must be promoted in order to insure 
a growth of fine, luxuriant hair. 

After the nursing period, the child must be given the kind of 
diet, which food scientists have found best for the making of bone, 
tissue and sinew, adding to the list from year to year as the child 
grows. He must have sufficient exercise to keep the blood flowing 
freely through every part of his body and his skin kept sweet and 
clean by daily baths. If this is done, his skin and hair will glow 
with health and life. 

The rubbing of the scalp of the little child should be most reg- 
ularly but gently done and the daily shampoo and bath not neglected. 

Children should be allowed to e-o without head covering unless 
the sun is too hot. A hot sun will fade the hair. 



36 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Gentle massage of the scalp and a weekly shampoo, will promote 
a good growth of hair providing the circulation be perfect. An out- 
door, active life, with simple, free clothing and plenty of sleep and 
of good nourishing food are advisable. Many children are allowed 
to play in the house with dolls much of the time and are thus deprived 
of active, out-of-door sports, which stimulate a good circulation ; the 
result is often anaemia or a weak condition of the blood. 

The child who leads an active, out-door life will need a more 
frequent shampoo than the adult. 

Many a mother owes the foundation of health in her children to 
their habit of playing with lively collie dogs, or with some animals 
which encourage out-door activity. 

"Whether the hair of children be cut or not, depends upon their 
physical condition. If the child is vigorous and his hair can have 
the proper amount of care, there is no need of cutting it. If, on the 
other hand, the child is inclined to be at all delicate, the hair should 
be kept quite short until the age of seven or eight so that no extra 
drain may be made upon the child's vitality. 

Under no circumstances use artificial means for curling a young 
girl's hair. If kept clean, well brushed and dressed simply, nature 
will take care of the rest. Do not draw it too tightly back from the 
face. Eemember that the hair is set in the scalp diagonally forward ; 
if pulled back it is contrary to this direction and strains the roots. 

Follow the directions for shampoo given in a later chapter. The 

egg shampoo is preferable. If the soap shampoo be used, make a 

lather as suggested under "Soap Shampoo." 

„, ,. No amount of theorizing nor faddism could con- 

Cleanliness ° 

vince the intelligent American woman that it is not nec- 
essary to wash the skin of the body regularly and systematically. 



THE HAIR 37 

Surrounded by dirt, dust, microbes, etc., as we are, the skin con- 
stantly being loosened and thrown off, and the pores eliminating 
a certain amount of waste matter, a daily bath is absolutely neces- 
sary for bodily cleanliness. The regular shampoo, massage and 
brushing of the hair is just as necessary to remove the shed skin, 
the oil, the dust and foreign particles. 

The mass of hair over the head, however, protects the scalp, so 
that fallen particles do not lodge upon it as freely as upon the face ; 
but the skin of the scalp is constantly throwing off dead scales and 
the perspiration and oil from the glands are pouring out of the skin 
constantly, just as the poisons and oil are being thrown from the 
skin of any other part of the body. This must be removed sys- 
tematically by thorough washing. If the oil and toxic matter be not 
removed, they very quickly clog the pores about the hair follicles 
interfering with their natural functioning. 

It must be borne in mind, also, that the organisms of an infected 
scalp may be conveyed to a perfectly healthy one, just as small-pox 
may be transmitted, and that ordinary baldness is the result of infec- 
tion. This being the case, the importance of each person using his 
own comb and brush and never, under any condition, using that of 
another, and especially the comb and brush at any public place, 
is of the greatest importance. "Whenever possible, keep your own 
comb and brush at the barber-shop or hair-dressing parlor. 

It is important also that one's own brush be kept clean, because 
the infectious organisms may be conveyed from your own brush back 
to your scalp, thus preventing the cure of the difficulty. Every brush 
and comb should be disinfected by an antiseptic solution, as per 
direction on page 52 at least once a week. 



38 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is scarcely worth while to attempt to cure baldness or dandruff 
if the patient continually endanger his scalp by the use of an infected 
brush or comb. Without doubt, there are barbers and hair-dressers 
who thoroughly cleanse their brushes after each use, but I fear they 
are few. 

Shamo ' ^" S ^ * s a n °ticeable fact that there is less liability 

of hair to fall after it has been shampooed, a good 
reason is furnished for doing it regularly. 

On account of the exposure to cold and the length of time 
required to go to a hair-dresser, every woman would, doubtless, 
prefer to have this work of her toilet done in her own home. If she 
is so situated that it is not convenient for her to have someone at 
home to do the work for her, she can do it successfully herself, though 
this is tiring if the hair be heavy. 

Whether one be her own operator or not, she understands her 
own hair best and should be sufficiently intelligent in regard to its 
care, as observed by careful study of results of experience, to direct 
its treatment. 

One may be amenable to suggestions from a shampooer, but it 
must be borne in mind that operators are not all educated. Many 
of them have not even a high school education and there are too 
many who have little real scientific knowledge. 

If you go to a massage parlor, knowing your own condition and 
requirements best, the operator will readily carry out your desires 
for treatment. You supply the knowledge and the operator the work. 
It is not wise to experiment with one's hair according to the whims 
of this operator and that one. Learn the best treatment for you and 
stick to it. 



THE HAIR 39 

It must be borne in mind also in shampooing, as well as in 
brushing and, in fact, in all treatment of the hair, that it must be 
handled gently and deftly. Many professional shampooers treat the 
hair altogether too harshly, especially in brushing and combing. 
They are either ignorant, in a hurry, or extremely careless, and such 
an operator should be assiduously avoided. Many tactless operators 
would make a woman believe she had a dreadful scalp disease when 
she discovers a few flakes of loose skill,— simply to get permission 
to give some "extra treatment" or to apply some so-called tonic, 
so that when the complicated process is finished, her nerves are all 
on edge and her scalp over-worked, instead of feeling rested and 
pleased. Too great vigor is not desirable. 

In large shampooing parlors, tbe time of the operators is rigidly 
regulated by the management, and an operator definitely understands 
that she is allowed just so much time and no more, no matter what 
the individual case. Many scalp diseases, falling, uneven and brittle 
hair may be attributed to this hurry and to a lack of intelligent atten- 
tion to individual condition in giving the shampoo. When the scalp 
is treated firmly and deftly, the shampoo is a luxury and will give 
a happy, restful hour. 

A shampoo properly done takes at least an hour, because it 
should always be accompanied with massage of the scalp. If it lasts 
only about half an hour, it will, in most cases, leave the hair dry and 
lusterloss, because, to save the time of more careful work, soap con- 
taining too much alkali is used to more quickly remove the oil, or 
the hair is not properly rinsed, or electricity is substituted for proper 
massage, or the hair is dried too quickly. If your hair is not soft and 



40 BEAUTY A DUTY 

glossy after a shampoo, it has not had the treatment adapted to its 
condition. 

Whenever you see a load of abundant, giossy, soft hair, you are 
safe in assuming that that person has had the hair treated with 
respect and intelligence and that it has regular, systematic care. 

The idea that washing causes the falling of the hair is a mistake. 
Any hairs that will come out in the process of the shampoo, as per 
the following directions, would be loose hairs and would come out 
in the brushing, a little later, if not washed. The loose, dead hair 
. is better removed from the scalp, so as to make room for the fresh 
to grow. 

On account of the ease with which the dirt may 
Sham o sift through short hair, a man's hair should be sham- 
pooed about once a week; if dandruff exist, it may 
be washed every three or four days. However, with either men or 
women, there can be no fixed rule for the frequency of the shampoo, 
as it depends upon the conditions about one,— also upon the frequency 
with which the dust is brushed from the hair. It may be kept moder- 
ately clean with regular, light brushing each day; but the foreign 
particles of dirt and dust, if allowed to collect, will stop up the hair 
follicles and may cause an irritation of the scalp. If the hair is not 
brushed thoroughly, it needs shampooing more frequently. 

If a woman lives in the country, where the air is free from dust, 
once in five or six weeks may be frequent enough, unless the hair 
becomes too oily,— then it must be washed more frequently. On the 
other hand, if one lives in a smoky atmosphere, once a week is not 
too frequent. Whenever the hair looks stringy or oily, clings to the 
scalp and looks dusty and dull, it should be cleansed. 



THE HAIR 41 

You need not be afraid of making the hair too dry by frequent 
shampooing, if you do not use soap containing free alkali. The 
massage accompanying the shampoo stimulates the flow of oil from 
the roots. 

Remember, also, that the massage, which thoroughly loosens the 
scalp and loosens the skin, is just as important a factor in the 
shampoo as the water. 

If the hair is washed, rinsed and dried properly, it will look 
refreshingly clean, glossy and healthy and the scalp will feel clean, 
warm and wholesome,— but care must be used in the selection of 
materials for shampooing and in the thorough rinsing of the hair 
afterward. 

Do not allow your hair dresser to use a liquid shampoo, or a 
shampoo powder, which she may buy or prepare. These prepared 
shampoos contain too much borax, potash, soda or ammonia, to which 
alcohol has been added to preserve it. They are drying in their 
nature and will leave your hair brittle. Operators like to use these 
because they cut the oil and the shampoo requires less time. 

Many operators will tell you that there is no alkali in the sham- 
poo used, but few operators know the composition of the shampoo 
liquid. This is a secret, which the manufacturer holds. He could 
not afford to make it public. This secret is his capital. 

Use nothing on your hair or face, which jiou do not understand. 
Simple ingredients are best. 

On account of the delicate scales, which form the covering of the 
hair, all movements of the hands in the work with the hair shafts 
must be downward, so that the delicate scales, which slope down- 
ward, referred to on page 33, be not ruffled. 



42 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Make every effort to get soft water for washing 

„ , _ - , the hair, for there is no skin tonic or hair lotion 
To be Preferred ' 

equal to it. If you live in the country this is easy. 
If you live in a steam-heated house, and your heater has an exhaust 
valve, you can, in winter, draw off the condensed steam from the 
radiator. This is nothing more nor less than distilled water. Melted 
natural ice or snow may be used when a supply of soft water cannot 
be had. The melted ice from the refrigerator is soft water and excel- 
lent for the skin and the hair. This, however, does not apply to 
manufactured ice, unless the manufactured ice is made from dis- 
tilled water. 

If it is impossible to get rain water, distilled water or melted 
ice, see that the water, if hard, is boiled before using. This causes 
the lime to settle ; it is the lime in hard water which dries and injures 
the hair. 

Many add a little borax or soda to the hard water, but boiled 
water is best, for if too much borax or soda be used, it will make the 
hair harsh and it will give brown or black hair a faded look. Do not 
use more than y 2 level teaspoonful of soda or borax to one quart 
of water, if you use it at all. 

Comb the hair out before washing, and braid it loosely to 
prevent it from snarling. 

„ c . The best cleanser and nourisher for the hair is 

Egg Shampoo 

egg. The iron and sulphur of the yolk nourish the 
scalp and invigorate the hair, while the milk alkali of the white 
unites with the fluid from the sebaceous glands, forming a sapon- 
aceous lather. Any woman can get eggs and not run the risk of 



THE HAIR 43 

impure soap or soap containing too much alkali. Eggs and soft 
water are your best cleansers. 

Beat two eggs, until the whites and yolks have mixed; to the 
mixture, add a cup of hot water, as hot as you can use it without 
cooking the eggs. Cold eggs or cold water poured upon the scalp 
closes the pores and it is not desirable to close them until cleansed. 
If the hair be very heavy, use four to six eggs and a proportionate 
amount of hot water. 

If the hair be too dry, a teaspoonful of oil of sweet almond or 
olive oil should be beaten with the egg and thoroughly massaged 
into the scalp. 

A good way to get the egg on the scalp thoroughly, is to pour 
it from a bottle with a small neck or from a narrow necked pitcher. 

Pour the egg upon the scalp, a little at a time, until it is 
wet and then thoroughly rub the scalp until you are sure you have 
loosened all of the dirt, oil and loose cuticle about the roots of the 
hair. Do this with the fleshy part of the finger tips. Do not touch 
the scalp with the nails. Be very thorough in rubbing this about 
the roots of the hair. 

Rinse the hair well and apply more of the egg mixture, thor- 
oughly saturating both the hair and the scalp; next take the hair 
between the palms of the hands and gently manipulate it with the 
hands as you would wash a handkerchief, so the dirt in the hair may 
be loosened by the mixture. Be sure to work the hair gently from 
the roots downward to avoid rubbing the tiny scales, which form 
the covering of the hair, the wrong way. 

For drying the hair see page 48. When nearly dry, saturate 
the scalp with witch-hazel, Eau de Cologne or Pond's extract, and 



44 BEAUTY A DUTY 

give it a thorough massage for from eight to ten minutes. Observe 
the directions for massaging the scalp on p. 53. 

If you do not wish to use the witch-hazel, etc., for the massage, 
plan to leave some of the egg for the massage and thoroughly work 
the scalp with the egg after the hair has been rinsed, for from eight 
to ten minutes, then rinse again. 

Eemember that the massage is of as great value as the tonic. 
The virtues of witch-hazel, Pond's extract, etc., are explained under 
the chapter on "Tonics." These tonics are for dry or oily hair, 
blond or dark. If preferred, another tonic may be used according 
to the condition. If the hair is dry, a tonic containing oil should 
be used. If the scalp contains dandruff, rub in a tonic containing 
resorcin. 

For black or brown hair, a half cup of vinegar may be heated 
with a half cup of water and used after the egg shampoo. The 
tannin in the vinegar, as well as the sulphur in the egg, stimulates 
the scalp and hair follicles. 

If you wish to brighten blond hair, use the juice of a lemon in 
your last rinsing water once in four or five weeks, or use a few drops 
of ammonia or y 2 teaspoon of soda in your shampoo mixture. The 
lemon is better, however, as it will not dry the hair as do the soda 
and ammonia. 

If the hair is too dry or brittle after a shampoo, learn the reason. 
It may be that the soap or other preparation used contains too much 
alkali; that you have used soda, borax or ammonia; that you have 
used too great heat in drying the hair; or that it has been dried too 
rapidly. If it is at all stiff or sticky, it is because the soap and oil 
have not been thoroughly removed by warm rinsing. 



THE HAIR 45 

Next to the egg shampoo, a pure soap shampoo 
Soap Shampoo is best, preferably the soap made of olive oil. 

An excellent shampoo is made of two parts 
green soap and one part alcohol scented with a little spirits of 
lavender. Green soap is oil combined with potash. The hard soaps 
are oil and soda. 

Bagoe's prepared olive oil soap is potash and olive oil and is 
supposedly more pure than the sapo viridis (green soap) of the drug 
stores. 

If the green soap is not at hand, a white castile soap or Ivory 
soap may be used. Either makes an excellent lather and neither 
contains free alkali. Be careful to get the purest castile obtainable. 
That made of olive oil is best. 

Do not rub the cake of soap directly upon the head. Make a 
liquid soap by taking a pint of soft water shaving half a bar of 
soap into it, boiling and stirring until the soap is dissolved. "When 
cooled to blood heat, pour over the head and follow the order of 
directions under "Egg Shampoo," page 42. 

Sufficient soap liquid may be made at one time for several sham- 
poos, bottled and used as needed; but if this is done it should be 
heated before applying to the scalp. 

Where it is impractical to shampoo the hair with 
Dry Shampoo water, because of illness, cold in the head, or neu- 
ralgia, or because of lack of convenience, it should 
be shaken out and the scalp ventilated in the sunshine to invigorate 
the roots and make it more fluffy. Shake it loose and then wipe down 
the hair shafts with clean towels and brush thoroughly with a clean 
bristle brush or with a piece of velvet or plush. Careful stroking 



46 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of the hair with a brush does much toward keeping it in condition. 
It cleanses, distributes the oil to the ends and smoothes down the 
scales which cover the hair shaft. Note the effect of the gloss on a 
horse's hair as a result of brushing. 

Hair can be thoroughly cleansed and loose dandruff removed 
with Indian corn meal. Sprinkle the meal thoroughly through the 
hair and on the scalp. A shaker top bottle or a spice box is a good 
thing to use for this. Eub the scalp very gently, yet thoroughly, until 
the particles of meal have taken up the surplus oil and dust from the 
scalp; then cleanse the hair by rolling the meal about the strands 
between the palms of your hands, being careful to move the hands 
always from the scalp downward. Next shake out the meal from the 
hair, strand by strand, brushing with a soft brush from root to end. 
Orris root and boracic acid are also used in place of the corn meal. 

Another shampoo which is a tonic and scalp wash is a lotion of 
two parts witch-hazel (or hamamelis), one part Eau de Cologne and 
a few drops of chloroform. 

Cleanse the scalp with this mixture by applying with a sponge. 
Massage it thoroughly into the scalp for eight to ten minutes and 
then brush the hair with a bristle brush slowly but firmly, as directed 
on page 50. 

To keep the hair white, or to remove the yellow 
r ~L . tinge to white or grey hair, pare off all of the rind 

from a lemon ; squeeze the juice into a cup and fill the 
cup with boiling water. When cooled to blood heat, saturate the hair 
and scalp with this and tie the head up in a towel for ten to fifteen 
minutes, thus giving time for bleaching out the yellow tint. Be sure 



THE HAIR 47 

not to get any of the rind into the cup or the oil from the rind will 
turn the hair yellow. 

Then wash the hair with the egg or with the pure soap liquid 
suggested above, massaging for eight to ten minutes. Rinse thor- 
oughly and to the last warm rinsing water add a very little indigo 
blue to keep the pure white tone ; or when the hair is dry, spray water 
containing a very little indigo, over the hair with an atomizer. Care 
must be taken not to have the water too blue. "When the right depth 
of blue is determined, sufficient mixture may be made for a number 
of treatments, bottled and used in the atomizer at successive sham- 
poos. The bluing gives the hair the silvery white tinge so beautiful 
about the face. 

After using the atomizer, the hair will be damp. It should be 
shaken lightly with the fingers until thoroughly dry and the scalp 
manipulated with the fingers to incite the flow of natural oil. 

Never use colored soap, yellow vaseline or dark oil on white hair. 
They turn it yellow. 

Rinse the hair thoroughly in quite warm water, suf- 
Rinsing ficiently warm to soften the oil, using several waters, until 
the last water is clear and free from soap or dirt. 

A bath spray is the best thing to use for giving the hair a thor- 
ough rinsing. The expense is not great and it is very easily handled. 

If you have no water works in your home, the water may be 
poured upon the head and through the hair with a dipper, or pitcher. 

You cannot remove the sticky oil of the hair by rinsing in cold 
water, because the egg or soap will not mix with the oil and dirt, if 
cold. If the egg, dirt and soap are not thoroughly removed, the hair 
will not take on a gloss and will be stickv and stiff. 

4 



48 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Let me impress upon you the fact that the thoroughness of the 
rinsing is one of the most important factors in the shampoo. 

Do not use cold water on the head, as it drives the blood from 
the scalp and cools the skull and the brain too suddenly. If used, the 
water must be cooled very gradually and the reaction must imme- 
diately be created by a thorough massage to bring a good circulation 
of warm blood to the scalp. The temptation to use it for the last 
rinsing, particularly in summer, is great, but should be avoided for 
the reasons above stated. The temperature of the rinsing water 
should be kept at about that of the body. The hair will dry more 
rapidly if the last rinsing water be quite warm. 

Dry with warm towels, wrapping a towel about 
, tt • the hair and gently wringing it; then press the hair 

between folds of a dry, warm towel. (Do not push the 
towel upward with the hair shaft, but downward with the scales.) 
Towels are better than a fan or artificial heat. Let one towel be 
drying while you are using the other, alternating till the hair is 
almost dry. 

Be gentle, do not pull, strain or tangle, so as to put an undue 
strain upon the hair, or the roots. 

To assist in drying the scalp, manipulate the scalp and hair 
with the finger tips, lifting the hair from the scalp and shaking lightly 
with the fingers, so as to let the air pass freely through it. 

If a fan be used, do not sit in air which is too much heated, or 
the hair will dry too rapidly. If dried too rapidly, either by too 
great heat or by too rapid fanning, the hair is apt to be stiff, brittle 
and lusterless. The electric hot air fans used by hairdressers should 
be avoided. They save the time of the operator, but leave the hair 



THE HAIR 49 

brittle. If used, do not sit close to the machine. Another objection 
to a fan is that it often invites a "cold in the head." 

By all means, when possible, dry the hair in the sunshine, or sit 
in the sun after it is dried, letting the rays of the sun penetrate to 
the scalp as you lightly lift and shake out the hair. The sun gives 
the hair a sheen and life, which are obtained in no other way. This 
may be done before a window, or, if the physical condition and the 
weather permit, in the open air. It is better not to sit in both sun 
and wind because of the too rapid drying. 

The physical condition and previous habits of exposure must be 
considered and judgment used before unduly exposing oneself with 
the hair wet. One who is delicate, can usually arrange to sit in the 
sun before a closed window while the hair is drying,— especially in 
the winter, but if the system be strong, the open sunshine is far better 
than warm towels. 

Do not comb the hair while ivet. It is more elastic 
Combing when wet and if combed then, it strains it too much. 
Separate the hair into small strands before combing 
and begin to comb at the extreme ends first, progressing upward, 
keeping the ends always free. Many entangle the hair by beginning 
to comb near the scalp, thus combing a tangle above into one below ; 
then becoming impatient at the tangle, they are apt to be too vig- 
orous and strain or break the hair in their effort to loosen it. 

A uniformly coarse comb is the best to use,— not half coarse and 
half fine. Try to get one which has rounded, curved spaces between 
the teeth, where they join the band, that the hair may not be injured 
by sharp edges. 

Remember that the comb is merely to untangle or straighten 



50 BEAUTY A DUTY 

out the hair and should never be allowed to scratch the scalp nor to 
bruise the delicate skin. 

If your operator tries to comb out a large cluster of hair at one 
time and gets it in a tangle, instruct her how to do it, or avoid her 
in the future. Do not allow an operator to break one hair. 

As has been pointed out elsewhere in these pages, 
Brushing proper massage is the only dependable means of improv- 
ing the condition of the scalp and the hair, by bringing 
nourishment to the hair roots through the little arteries and veins 
of the scalp, but brushing is the best of all aids to the massage; it 
increases the blood supply and loosens the cells about the hair shaft. 

If you wish the gloss of silk upon your hair you must brush with 
even, steady strokes. As well try to shine a shoe with lazy, hap- 
hazard strokes as to shine the hair with spasmodic whisks. To bring 
the gloss to the hair, brush it down upon the scalp. Cleanliness and 
"elbow grease" are as necessary for polishing the hair as for polish- 
ing a piano;— but with all firmness, be gentle. 

Much is said, pro and con, in regard v to brushing the hair and 
there is no doubt that many strain the hair or dig down to the scalp 
and thus injure both scalp and hair by too vigorous work. The 
purpose of brushing is to gently stroke it, to remove the dirt on the 
hair shaft, to gently invigorate the roots, to distribute the oil the 
entire length of the hair and to stroke and smooth down the hair 
scales. Thus brushing keeps the hair glossy. The invigoration of 
the nerves and the better blood supply about the roots gives the 
soothing effect resulting from brushing when one is tired. 

Brushing should be done carefully and confined to the hair itself. 



THE HAIR 51 

It should not be brushed while wet. Sharp bristles, either of hair 
or steel, should not be allowed to scratch the scalp. 

Divide the hair into about six strands and gently brush one 
strand at a time, always from the crown of the head forward toward 
the forehead and from the crown downward to the neck, as this con- 
forms with the "set" of the hair. (See page 56.) Hair does not 
grow outward from the scalp at right angles, but diagonally from 
the skin, slanting from the center or crown to the circumference of 
the scalp. 

Brushing against the natural set of the hair, especially in the 
case of children, is a mistake which many mothers make. They often 
brush, and brush vigorously, from the forehead back, instead of from 
the crown of the head forward. 

Use a bristle brush, with bristles about % of 
Kind of Brush an inch long. See that the bristles are not too 
coarse, nor yet too flexible. An expensive brush is 
not necessary. Avoid wire and so-called "electric" ones; the tend- 
ency to brush deep and scratch the scalp with them is too great. 

If the bristles be set in an air cushion, there is less resistance 
and the stroking of the hair will be soft and yielding. 

From ten to twenty strokes of a bristle brush, given to the hair 
each night and morning, will keep the hair soft and glossy. 

The tendency of brush makers in the past few years, has been 
to make bristles of too stiff pigs' hair, or to use wire. This is prob- 
ably due to the fact that the public is awakening to the idea that the 
seal]) must be massaged, and not having given sufficient thought to 
the matter to realize that the fingers and hands are Nature's massage 
instruments, they attempt to scratch the scalp with the brush and 



52 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the stiffer the wire prongs or bristles, the harder they can scratch. 
As shown elsewhere, this is a mistake. 

A piece of velvet is often used in place of a brush. From this 
velvet the real purpose of brushing or stroking is readily inferred 
and the velvet answers the purpose; however, it cannot be cleansed 
without laying the nap and for this reason it will not be popular 

Brushing the hair toward the scalp to fluff it and make the 
pompadour is one of the most injurious things you can do. (See 
p. 33.) The scales are thus brushed backward and the hair is sure 
to break in consequence. 

Have a small eyelash brush on your dressing table and brush 
the eyelashes and the eyebrows when you brush the hair. 

The comb and brush should be thoroughly 
C h d B h cleansed at least once a week. A good antiseptic 
to use is a few drops of carbolic acid in a pint 
of boiling water. If, however, the bristles of the brush, or the mate- 
rial of which the comb be made will not stand the heat of boiling 
water, then let the water be as hot as the brush will stand. If one 
has a metal comb, it may be sterilized by simply immersing it in 
boiling water. The teeth of the comb should be carefully wiped. 

In shaking the brush through the water, hold it parallel to the 
water, bristles down. 

If the bristles are wiped when they are wet they will dry soft. 

After rinsing, dry in the sun, laying it on its side or with the 
bristles down, else the water will soak into the back and injure it. 

The wire rolls which permit the hair to be brushed over them 
for the pompadour, allow a free ventilation of the scalp and as long 



THE HAIR 53 

as the pompadour is in vogue, they save many women from utterly 
ruining their hair by roughing it. 

The distenders made of hair or sea-weed overheat the scalp. 

The best and only reliable tonic for the hair, is 
Scalp Massage a thorough circulation of good blood through the 
tiny blood vessels and capillaries of the scalp. The 
best means of promoting this circulation is proper massage, which 
invigorates the capillary action and loosens the scalp. This massage 
is best done with the fingers. 

If the hair and scalp have not had proper care, the outer skin 
becomes tense and strained, pressing upon the scalp and cramping 
the blood vessels and delicate little hair roots; the cells of the skin 
also become torpid. 

A dry, tight scalp is often caused by nerve tension or it may be 
from indigestion, constipation, or any ailment which interferes with 
proper nourishment, or relief of the waste of the system. 

The purposes of scalp massage are: 

First: — The loosening of tissues in which capillaries and veins 
are imbedded, thus quickening the circulation, that the hair and scalp 
tissues may receive sufficient nourishing blood. It is from the blood 
that the hair receives its life. 

Second :— Freedom and quickened circulation through lym- 
phatics and veins, that the waste may be carried away. If the veins 
are emptied, the arteries will quickly refill them with a fresh supply 
of blood. 

Third:— Stimulation of the tiny nerve ends, which control the 
capillary circulation. These nerves encircle each hair follicle and 
form a perfect network through the scalp. 



54 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Fourth:— Freedom of the sebaceous glands that the hair may 
receive the natural amount of oil needed to lubricate the hair shaft, 
so it will not become brittle and break. 

Fifth:— Manipulation of the muscles of the scalp to make them 
soft and pliable. 

Sixth:— Loosening of the scales and dirt about the roots of the 
hair. 

Seventh :— Release of toxic matter which is carried away through 
the veins and lymph channels. 

No amount of electricity or chemical action of hair lotions is as 
salutary and effective as the bringing of nourishing blood by the 
yielding flesh of the fingers in contact with the flesh of the head. 

The scalp should receive a light massage 

Regular Home , .. _, „ . . . 

_. ^ _ ,, daily. The first step is to instruct a woman 

Treatment Desirable J r 

how to do it correctly. One who has the time 
and money to have expert, daily, scientific treatment of the scalp by 
an experienced maid is fortunate, but there is no reason in the world 
why the busy woman and mother cannot cultivate her hair and mas- 
sage her own scalp with gratifying success at home ; or she may have 
some one to do the work for her at home, under her direction. 

The movements and directions given here are not intended to 
interfere with the hair specialist, who does her work scientifically 
and conscientiously, but as stated above, the scalp should receive a 
light massage daily and I am anxious to help the women who prefer 
to attend to these matters at home. 

By about three minutes' massage once a day and about twenty 
minutes when your hair is shampooed, you will be abundantly 
rewarded, for the scalp responds with wonderful rapidity. In fact 



THE HAIR 55 

all hair specialists and even the sellers of hair tonics, "will tell you 
that the massage required to rub the tonic in, to stimulate the nerves 
and to cleanse the pores, is of more value than the tonic itself, for 
the nourishment comes from the blood and not from the tonic. 

In treating the scalp, care must be taken not only to massage 
regularly, but the duration of the treatment must be varied. When 
you feel a glow of warmth to the scalp, the treatment is sufficient: 
just a few moments each day will suffice. 

Heroic treatment is not desirable. Do not massage until the 
scalp is sore. This is another argument in favor of daily, home 
treatment. When one relies upon massage at the hair dresser's once 
a fortnight, the inclination is to permit the operator to be too thor- 
ough and in some cases to "get your money's worth," and often the 
treatment is too prolonged. A moment or two morning and night 
is far better. 

Much is written by hair specialists or the manufacturers of hair 
tonics, etc., in cautioning against so-called unscientific massage, but 
unfortunately almost all people who write upon this subject are 
trying to exploit some special tonic, or a hair dresser is trying to 
convince you that women should go to a hair dressing parlor for this 
work and not attempt it at home. It will be interesting to my renders 
to know that several of the best authorities upon this subject each 
declares his or her own method to be the only correct, scientific one 
and if not done accordingly will result disastrously, yet their meth- 
ods are often entirely antagonistic. One must use her own judg- 
ment and, with scientific principles fully understood, draw her own 
conclusions. 



56 BEAUTY A DUTY 

However, one important point in the massage 

The Set 

r , TT . movements is not to injure the roots of the hair by rub- 
of the Hair d J 

bing them too vigorously in the opposite direction to 
the set of the hair, especially the delicate hairs about the hair line. 

The hair root grows from the scalp diagonally and not directly 
outward. The point in the middle of the crown of the head, where 
the hair, if it is allowed to remain short, naturally begins to part, 
shows the direction of the set of the hair,— the hair of the head 
slanting from the crown to the circumference in all directions ; there- 
fore, to follow the direction of the set of the hair, the manipulative 
movements of the scalp should be from the crown of the head to the 
forehead, to the ears and to the base of the neck,— or from the crown 
to the periphery. The diagonal set of the hair in the skin is shown 
in Fig. A. 

In massaging in a rotary movement, if the greatest pressure 
be from the crown toward the circumference, it has a soothing effect ; 
if the pressure be applied toward the crown, opposite the set of the 
hair, it irritates. 

Operators will tell you that manipulative movements 

t, ., must follow the lines of the veins, arteries, and nerves. 

Follow 

The large trunk arteries run upward in front of the ear 
and upward at the sides of the neck about midway between the ears 
and the center of the back of the neck. About an inch above the ear 
in front and at the base of the skull in the back, they begin to divide, 
diverging until they make a perfect network over the skull. 

Figures D and E show the direction of the larger arteries and 
veins. 




Figure A 
grows from 
that the ha 
dermis; M, 
H B. Hair 



— Section of the skin, showing the manner in which the hair 
the skin, its lubrication by the sebaceous glands, etc. Note 

r is set diagonally in the skin, not directly outward. 1 ., Epi- 
Arrector muscle of hair; S G. Sebaceous gland; C. Corium; 

bulb; S, Subcutaneous tissue with blood vessels, nerves, etc. 



Figure B 
of the largest 



llustrates 
nerve tru 



Fig. B 

the directi 
nks of th> 



on of the 
head and 



branching 
neck. 




Fig. C 

Figure C shows the direction of the lymphatic 
channels. For the importance in following these 
in scalp massage, see pages 35 to 42. 





Fig. D 

Figures D and E show the larger veins and arteries of the head The white lines are the arteries and 
the dark lines the veins. Note that they follow almost the same course, intertwining, the arteries branching 
and the veins converging at about the same points. The direction of this is important in scalp massage. 
See pages 35 to 42. 



By permission of Rebman ( Ion 



New York, 



THE HAIR 57 

The nerves, veins and lymphatics form a network converging 
downward. If then, following about the same direction as the arter- 
ies, as shown in Figs. D and E, the massage movement be upward, 
it exhilarates, slightly, the movement in the arteries and the latter 
being filled, force a stronger movement through the veins; while if 
the massage movement be from the forehead toward the ears, and 
from the top of the head downward, the venous and lymphatic circu- 
lations are exhilarated and the blood through the arteries flows more 
freely to fill the emptied veins and lymphatics. Movements upward, 
or toward the extremities soothe the nerves, and downward, or 
toward the base of the brain, stimulate them, so both movements are 
right. (See Fig. B, which illustrates the larger nerve trunks.) 

The veins and lymphatics lie nearer the surface, however, and 
their walls being more yielding, permit the circulation through them 
to be more definitely controlled. Thus by the downward stroke the 
toxic matter, which must be carried away by the veins and lym- 
phatics, is regularly forced from the head. 

The nerves also form a perfect network over the skull. A tiny 
nerve twines itself about each hair root, and one important purpose 
of massage movements is to stimulate the tiny nerve ends, because, 
when quickened, they bring more blood to the capillaries. It is 
scarcely possible to pierce the scalp with the finest needle without 
touching one of these fine nerves or without puncturing a capillary. 

It will be noted by reference to the hair tonics, that the chief 
ingredient in these is alcohol,— the purpose of the tonic being to 
stimulate the nerve ends, and thus stimulate capillary circulation. 

The following of nerve trunks, arteries or veins is not important 
in the regular manipulative movements but the veins and lymph 



58 BEAUTY A DUTY 

channels should he regularly emptied. It is the nerve extremities 
which are stimulated and, as stated, these form a network through 
the scalp. 

The effort, therefore, must be first, to create a looseness of the 
scalp so that all veins, arteries and nerves may be perfectly free 
and then to manipulate every particle of the scalp with the fingers, 
to free all of the capillaries and the nerve extremities; if the 
scalp is warmed by these manipulative movements, you know you 
have called a better circulation of blood to it and the nourishment 
received must then depend upon the nutritious elements in the blood. 

Let me caution you, however, to empty the veins and lymph 
spaces frequently during the process of massage that you may 
remove all the waste and bring fresh nourishment to the hair roots. 

The following is a formula for a good general hair tonic, which 
your druggist should be able to put up for you : 

Tincture of jaborandi 1 dram 

Pilocarpine nitrate 1 grain 

Vaseline 1 dram 

Add sufficient alcohol to make one ounce. 

Part the hair and apply this tonic to the roots with a tonic comb, 
a piece of absorbent cotton, or a small tooth brush. 

When the scalp has been thoroughly massaged, part the hair 
and brush it, according to directions under "Brushing." 

Dandruff is one of the chief causes of falling 
„ . . hair and of baldness. In the beginning, it is a com- 

bination of dried oil with the dead cuticle, which col- 
lects about the openings of the oil glands. This is a natural process 
and is not disastrous, if not allowed to remain too long; but if it 



THE HAIR 59 

does remain, it becomes infected by bacteria, expresses itself in irri- 
tation and becomes an actual disease. No single micro-organism 
has been identified as the cause of seborrhea. 

The scalp is constantly shedding the loose cuticle; but, when 
this is done in such quantities as to be noticeable, it is a sure sign 
that the scalp has become infected and that bacteria are at work. 

Any neglect of the scalp or the circulation invites the develop- 
ment of dandruff. 

Anaemia, or a low vitality, seems to favor the development of 
this disease; therefore the blood should be kept in good condition 
and made to circulate freely. Physical conditions should never be 
allowed to get so low that it requires months to build up, because 
the system is susceptible to diseases of all kinds under such circum- 
stances. 

Dandruff is very infectious. Many get the germ from brushes 
and combs used in barber shops or hair-dressing establishments, or 
it is communicated from the head of one member of a family to 
another. 

Many conditions of gray hair, dry scalp or falling hair, which 
run among different members of a family, may be traced to the infec- 
tion passed from one member to another, by the use of the same comb 
and brush. 

If your own scalp, therefore, is infected with dandruff, take 
good care that no one else uses your comb and brush. 

Dandruff may appear on the scalp of an infant in a yellow crust 
known as the "cradle cap" and if not scientifically treated, it may 
exist there for many years, and may result in rashes of various 
kinds in other parts of the body, while the hair will remain thin and 
the head scurvy, followed by early grayness and baldness 



60 BEAUTY A DUTY 

As previously stated, do not use a fine comb or stiff brush to 
remove any form of dandruff, as both irritate the scalp and aggra- 
vate the condition. 

Military brushes, as a rule, are used so injudiciously and with 
such unnecessary vigor by men, as to strain the hair and to scrape 
and injure the scalp. In view of the above fact and of the over- 
strenuousness of most barbers, it is not to be wondered at that so 
many men are bald. 

Seborrhea was formerly spoken of as of two kinds, but since, if 
allowed to continue, the dry dandruff becomes oily the distinction in 
the two kinds of disease is not held. 

Dry dandruff shows dry, white scales which loosen readily from 
the scalp but will cease after a better condition of the scalp is built 
up by means of better circulation, proper massage and simple tonics. 

Oily dandruff is more troublesome; therefore, steps should be 
taken at once for its cure, otherwise it will prove very obstinate. 

The scales in this kind of dandruff are mixed with an oily mat- 
ter, which remains on the scalp until removed. The hair becomes 
very oily and the odor very disagreeable. The sebaceous glands of 
the scalp, also, become involved, causing the hair to drop on account 
of improper nourishment, and new hair is prevented from growing. 

Oily dandruff is very contagious and requires long and patient 
treatment to overcome. 

In order to remove dandruff, look first to the gen- 
D nd ff era * state °^ ^ e nea ^ n ' relieve indigestion, constipa- 
tion, anaemia, rheumatism, nervousness, gout, or any 
other condition which indicates a faulty elimination of the waste of 



THE HAIR 61 

the system. This can be done by attention to diet, to regular, sys- 
tematic, daily exercise for the vital organs and to deep breathing. 
Attention to the health is as necessary as the application of remedies 
to the scalp. 

Next to attention to the health the best preventative and cure 
of dandruff is a perfectly clean scalp. The scalp should never be 
allowed to go longer than two weeks, at the most, without a thorough 
shampoo. In extreme or chronic cases it should be oiled, shampooed 
and massaged every two or three days. 

Many women, who wash their scalps regularly, often leave layers 
of skin and oil about the oil glands, because of the failure to thor- 
oughly massage the scalp during the shampoo. 

To remove dandruff, oil the scalp thoroughly with any pure, 
sweet oil. White vaseline, oil of sweet almonds or olive oil are good. 
Soak the scalp with the oil thoroughly a few hours before the sham- 
poo; this will loosen the dandruff. Then shampoo and massage 
according to directions. In either the egg or soap shampoo, use 
water that is not hot, but thoroughly warm, and put a half teaspoon- 
ful of sulphur into the water as an antiseptic. 

After the shampoo, apply a good dandruff tonic, rubbing it thor- 
oughly upon the scalp. 

Do not be alarmed, if, when you first begin the treatment, much 
of the hair comes out. This would drop out of its own accord just 
a little later, and many of the harmful bacteria are removed by the 
removal of the hair. 

As explained previously, however, the tonic does not cure,— 
that can only be accomplished by eliminating the cause. These prep- 

Elsewhere in this volume are given directions for the treatment of dandruff. 



62 BEAUTY A DUTY 

arations do help to stimulate the nerves, however, and act as a germ 
killer. 

Eczema and dandruff are the most common scalp 

„ , . ' , difficulties. Eczema of the scalp is caused by an inactive 

condition of some of the vital organs, so that the work 

of these organs is forced upon the pores of the skin, the skin tissue 

becoming poisoned. 

External treatments will relieve the eczema, but not cure it, 
cleanliness of the scalp as well as internal cleanliness and activity 
of the organs of elimination are all necessary in the treatment for 
a permanent cure of the eczema. 

The symptoms of eczema of the scalp are expressed differently, 
according to the age of the individual. In children, the eruption is 
generally of a pustular nature, while in adults, it is scaly. 

It often originates in seborrhoea, when the scalp has been irri- 
tated by scratching. The eruptions form in symmetrical patches or 
in a single, crusty patch, fairly well denned in outline. Many times, 
when the scalp is severely irritated, as in the case of nervousness, 
which leads one to constantly scratch the scalp with the finger nails, 
it will cause small circular and slightly crusted or oozing patches. 
When the crusts are of a reddish, friable nature (easily crumbled or 
broken) they indicate a traumatic condition (such as follows a 
wound) ; the color is due to the blood that exudes from the irritated 
surface. 

This form of eczema is usually limited to the scalp, although it 
sometimes extends to the ears, temples, forehead and neck. 

The scaly form is the most common; there may be a scanty or 
an abundant formation of fine, bran-like scales, with little change 



THE _ HAIR 63 

from the normal, except that the skin may be slightly reddened or 
present a yellowish color, characteristic of the disease. 

Sometimes the scales are large and abundant ; when formed into 
adherent masses, they are usually of a somewhat fatty nature, scaling 
and crusting. The lesions are sometimes moist and, when there is 
a discharge, it is of a greasy nature. 

The progress of the disease is insidious, sometimes the thinning 
of the hair being the first noticeable symptom. 

The difference between ordinary seborrhoea and eczema is 
readily distinguished. In eczema there are diffusions of outside mat- 
ters into the tissues which produce a mechanical action and destroy 
proper iunctionmg, evidencing itself in itching, while in seborrhoea 
neither of these conditions exists. 

In seborrhoea the scales are greater in number, are freely shed 
and are more greasy than those of eczema. In the latter the scales 
are dry and scanty, but more firmly attached to the underlying tissue. 

There is little doubt but that seborrhoeal eczema is parasitic in 
origin, and that irritation and direct contagion figure largely among 
the external causes of the disease, while digestive disturbances often 
act as predisposing influences. 

The internal treatment is similar to that of eczema and sebor- 
rhoea, exercises and diet being needed to put the stomach and diges- 
tive organs in a healthy, active condition. 

The care of the scalp is most important, so that the disease may 
be held in check and not spread to other parts of the body. 

In case of eczema of the scalp, follow the directions for the 
removal of dandruff, employing the dry shampoo. Lotions are better 

5 



64 BEAUTY A DUTY 

than salves. After any soap and water washing, an oily application 
is always advisable. 

Scalp lotions will be given when needed. 

With the falling of the leaves in the autumn, there 
Falling Hair . . „ „. „.-,■,'. -, •„ -, ■, • 

or Baldness 1S a na f ;iira l falling of the hair, and if the hair comes 

out more at this time, unless the falling be abnormal, 

there is no reason for alarm. It is Nature's way of discarding the 

old and putting on the new. 

If the hair in the winter time is inclined to be more brittle and 
fall more, it should have special care at this time. It is often neces- 
sary to use tonics containing oil more frequently in winter than in 
summer. The hair grows much more in summer than in winter, and 
it may be that this is due somewhat to atmospheric conditions;— 
in the winter time there is more electricity in the scalp, and this 
greater electricity has a tendency to dry it. It may be the period 
of rest as with vegetation. 

However, falling of the hair, dry, thin or gray hair, if excessive 
and not due to sheer weight of years, are symptoms of a diseased 
process. The majority of cases of falling hair are the result of 
seborrheal bacteria, or of some poisonous product, and one must look 
deeper than the scalp for the trouble. The general vitality must be 
built up and the blood be put in good condition and be made to cir- 
culate freely both through the body and through the scalp. 

When the hair is inclined to fall it should be allowed to do so. 
This is Nature 's effort to get rid of the bacteria which have damaged 
and diseased the shaft, and any hair lotion or hair tonic advertised 
to stop the hair from falling, is like a "cure-all" treatment,— unless 
the condition which caused the hair to fall or the poison in the blood, 



THE HAIR 65 

be regulated first. In most cases, daily massage of the scalp, with a 
mild, invigorating tonic containing a little oil will relieve it, if the 
circulation be forceful. 

Perspiration of the scalp, and, in fact, moist heat or extreme cold 
in any form, tend to promote the growth of hair. 

Do not dress the hair tightly or use too much false hair or 
heating "rats" or too many combs or hair pins, as undue strain 
must not be put upon the scalp or the hair. All such points must be 
guarded if falling hair is to be avoided. 

The loss of hair, either in whole or in part, is such a serious mat- 
ter that it behooves every woman to look to her physical condition 
first and foremost. If this is all that could be desired then make up 
your mind to give a few minutes every day to the gentle massage 
of your scalp that the blood may keep it well nourished and a good 
head of hair may be assured. 

Fleshj' people are in greater danger than thin people of losing 
their hair as the fatty matter in their scalps is acrid as well as oily. 

High living will also lead to white hair and baldness. 

Two things are imperatively necessary in arresting the loss of 
hair,— utter cleanliness and stimulation of the blood circulation 
through which alone the hairs can be fed with fresh hair-substance. 

Where the root of the hair has become detached and the follicle 
itself has closed, no hair will ever again grow in that place. If that 
has occurred over the whole scalp, it means baldness for life. There 
are such cases, and wigs are the only refuge. 

Women are by no means exempt from baldness, but they are 
less liable to it than men, and usually when it occurs, the woman 



66 BEAUTY A DUTY 

has herself to blame for it. There are several reasons why women 
are less subject than men to complete loss of the hair. They do not 
wear their hats as much as men do, and the hats themselves are 
neither so heavy nor so unventilated as those worn by men. 

When it is remembered that the arteries, which 
U th H ' supply blood to the skin and tissues of the upper 

part of the scalp are located on each side of the 
head, in front of and behind the ears, it will be understood why head 
covers of any kind should not be allowed to press upon these arteries 
and deprive the scalp of its source of nourishment. 

There is no question but that there would be less premature 
baldness among men if they would go without their hats more of the 
time, and when obliged to wear them, would be careful about 
pressing them too closely upon their heads, thus preventing ventila- 
tion of the scalp and restricting the blood supply by pressing upon 
the arteries, veins, lymphatics and nerves. See Figures B, C, D 
andE. 

Baldness does not attack the scalp at the back, but near the 
temples and crown, where the nourishment is insufficient, on account 
of too much pressure upon the supplying arteries. 

Hats for both men and women should be as light in weight and 
as well ventilated as possible. 

The custom of going without hats, whenever practicable, during 
the day or evening, is a thoroughly sensible one and should be encour- 
aged ; no better prescription for preventing falling hair or premature 
whitening could be prescribed. The hair is ventilated and the scalp 
cooled. This is not possible with a hat tightly pinned down and 



THE HAIR 67 

veiled over. For this reason a veil alone would be preferable when 
riding in a strong wind. When the sunlight is too strong, use an 
umbrella. 

Baldness is practically unknown among savages living in a state 
of nature and there is no doubt but that the fact that the savages 
wear no hats, worry less, live more simple lives and subsist upon 
plain foods has much to do with this. 

There are two forms of baldness, senile and pre- 
of B Id mature. The former is due to old age and it may be the 

result of a poor circulation, lowered vitality or the 
hardening of the arteries. However, the fact that many people reach 
old age with luxuriant hair would seem to indicate that this is not 
of necessity a natural result of age, but that the slower circulation 
and the lessened vitality may enable the seborrheal organism, with 
which the scalp has been afflicted for some time, to make greater 
headway. It is safe to say that if the dandruff be corrected, and not 
allowed to continue during middle life, one may live to a ripe old 
age with a healthy head of hair. 

The fact that baldness is so much more common among men than 
women, is due to the fact, doubtless, that the micro-organism 
can more readily reach the scalp of a man with short hair than of a 
woman with long hair. The mat of thick, long hair protects a 
woman's scalp. It is also due to the fact that men patronize barber- 
shops, and allow promiscuous brushes of the barber to be used upon 
their hair more than do women. Men should insist also upon the 
barber not being too zealous. Environment and the manner of living 
have much to do with this, also. 



68 BEAUTY A DUTY 

There is no question but that baldness can be arrested 

if taken at an early stage, but the chances of the correc- 
Arrested 

tion of this after the age of forty are slight, yet cases are 
on record, where a considerable growth of hair has been regained 
on a man as old as seventy years. However, a full growth of hair is 
seldom regained after middle life. 

In all cases of baldness or thinness of the hair, resulting from 
fevers, such as scarlatina, measles, etc., the condition of the hair is 
corrected, as the system builds up, by appropriate local and consti- 
tutional treatment. If attention be not given to this, however, the 
transient shedding of hair may drift into permanent baldness. 
Often, cases of premature baldness are traced back to some acute 
disease occurring years previous, the condition not having been 
properly treated at that time. 

A specialist in a skin hospital states that in severe attacks of 
baldness, rheumatism, anaemia, consumption or some other malady 
is almost invariably found in the personal history of the patient. 
Dyspepsia and neuritis are constantly associated with baldness, 
while many cases of dry skin and falling hair are definitely traced 
to constipation. 

In fact, any poisonous condition of the blood, acute or chronic, 
may lead to falling of the hair. This may result from the action 
of the poisons on the nutrition of the hair bulb, or from the effects 
of the local inflammation of the scalp. 

In advanced consumption, the hair suffers from lack of nutri- 
tion, yet in early consumption it is interesting to note that there is 
often a tendency to overgrowth of the hair. It may be that night 



THE HAIR 69 

sweats and the increased hair growth, are both due to the irritation 
of the tuberculin thrown off by the skin. 

Premature baldness is due to prolonged and unnatural nerve 
strain, over-work, excesses of all kinds, or to constitutional or scalp 
disease. It is more common among men than women and, strange 
to say, is more prevalent among the wealthy and educated than 
among the middle or poorer classes. 

The lesson to be adduced from these facts is the value of a 
normal, well-regulated and a more calm life. Nerves soon rebel if 
too much strain is put upon them, such as is necessary to keep up 
with present-day social and business exactions. It is not surprising 
that, under such circumstances, the nerves frequently fail to respond. 
The same holds true in regard to vital organs. 

One way to know whether baldness, or thin hair, is curable is to 
apply the following test: Pick up the scalp between the fingers and 
thumb ; if when so picked up, it shows the opening of the hair chan- 
nel, having depressions on the surface like an orange peel, then the 
chances are that the hair root is not dead and will respond to proper 
massage. With perseverance in correcting the condition of the 
nerves and the quality of the blood, or in relieving the seborrheal 
condition, the vigor may be established, and the growth of hair 
regained. If there are fine, soft, downy hairs on the scalp, they can 
unquestionably be made to grow; but when the scalp is smooth and 
shiny, there is not one chance in a hundred of correcting it, because 
the hair is dead and cannot be restored. 

When the head skin loses its glandular appearance and takes 
on a shiny look, this means that the hair roots and glands are all 
dead, and that there is no hope of building new ones. All the tonics 



70 BEAUTY A DUTY 

and massage of the most skillful specialist would avail nothing in 
such cases. In order to avoid such results, a circulation of good 
blood must be kept up through the scalp. 

Do not use cold water upon the head. The shock to the nerves 
and to the brain is too great. When taking a cold shower, after a 
warm bath, do not let the water strike the head. 

For the stimulation of the growth of the hair after 
Treatment the scalp has become bald, first remove all scurf or 
dandruff, as directed under "Dandruff." Eemember 
that the dandruff may have caused the baldness. A good tonic may 
then be massaged upon the scalp. Be sure to massage every day, 
systematically, so as to nurture the roots with a copious supply of 
blood. 

Give the hair a thorough egg shampoo once a week. 

Keep the scalp thoroughly clean, and softened with oil or a tonic 
containing oil. 

Most of the preparations on the market for "growing hair on 
bald heads" consist of thin paraffin oil. Tonics, in scalp diseases, 
are useful where they contain a germicide, which acts upon the 
bacteria, or a cantharis, which stimulates the nerves. 

It is chiefly through the stimulation of good blood to the roots 
that baldness is corrected. The massage necessary to rub the tonic 
into the scalp creates a better activity about the hair follicles and 
consequently the waste and poisonous matter are more readily picked 
up and carried away by the stronger circulation. With proper treat- 
ment new, fresh hairs will often grow from the old roots, and, because 
of the better nutrition, the scalp is able to resist the bacteria. 



THE HAIR 71 

It must be remembered that the condition causing baldness has 
been existing for a long time, and it will require months of patience 
before appreciable results will be noted. 

It must also be borne in mind, that many of the lotions on sale 
for the betterment of the hair may of themselves be full of bacteria, 
and the safest process for the stopping of falling hair is attention 
to the general health, to regular massage of the scalp and to thor- 
ough cleanliness. 

If the scalp be loose and massaged regularly, so as 
Dry Hair to keep the oil glands, capillaries and muscles free, the 
hair will seldom be too dry in summer, but because of 
more electricity, which results in a natural dryness of the hair in 
winter, it is often necessary to apply a little oil, sometimes to the 
scalp, and sometimes only to the ends of the hair. Where this is 
desirable, a very little oil of sweet almonds, olive oil, or, in fact, any 
pure sweet oil is all that is necessary; the cream from your milk 
will do. A little sweet almond oil, mixed with the egg in the shampoo, 
is one of the best methods of applying oil. 

It should be borne in mind that a very little oil will soften the 
shaft, and it should only be applied when the hair shaft is too dry. 
To much oil upon the scalp fills up the oil cells and interferes with 
the excretion of the natural oils. 

A dry, tight scalp is frequently caused by constipation, indiges- 
tion or nerve strain, but even if these are at the base of the trouble, 
it will be materially helped by massage and the application of a little 
oil, though not corrected until the cause is removed. 

Where a little oil seems desirable on the ends of the hair and 
not on the scalp— though this will seldom be true if the hair be brushed 



72 BEAUTY A DUTY 

so as to distribute the oil properly— the best way to apply it is to 
rub a drop or two into the palm of the hand,— then rub the brush 
over the hand until the oil is distributed over the bristles, and brush 
the hair as far up the shaft as needed. Two or three drops is suffi- 
cient. Brilliantine (odorless castor oil) is used by hair dressers to 
lend a gloss to the hair. (See page 116.) 

Excessive oil is caused by too great activity 
Oily Hair of the oil glands or a torpid condition of the muscles and 
glands of the face or scalp, which will not permit the oil 
glands to hold the oil in reserve. The above condition does not per- 
mit of sufficient freedom of the oil cells and, instead of remaining 
in the skin, more of it passes out into the hair shaft. Often the scalp 
is massaged to keep a flexible activity of the muscles and oil cells. 

The oily hair of the majority of people is, however, due to the 
fact that the hair is not washed often enough to remove the oil from 
the hair shaft, and to cleanse the pores. 

If, then, the hair be too oily, shampoo it at least every two weeks, 
as per directions under "Shampoo," and follow directions for 
"Daily Care of the Hair," page 91; see that the scalp is massaged 
once a week. In some cases once a week is not too often for sham- 
pooing. 

Where the hair is oily, alkali substances are altogether too freely 
used by the average operator. These alkalis cut the oil and dirt but 
they leave the hair dry and brittle, so that it breaks off. The chem- 
ical reaction of alkali changes the color of the hair, making it faded 
and lifeless, according to the chemical properties in the hair at the 
time they are used. They react differently with different conditions 
and with different individuals. 



THE HAIR 73 

Dry and brittle hair is much more liable to turn gray, because 
the air more readily enters the hair shaft. 

Whether you shampoo your own hair, or have someone do it 
for you, insist upon using simple ingredients and if soap be used, 
let it be nearly neutral in its reaction. 

Do not buy shampoo mixtures unless you are sure of the ingre- 
dients composing them. Remember your shampooer, in nine cases 
out of ten, does not know the constituents of the prepared mixture. 
Eggs and pure castile soap are preferable. 

Unless split hairs be caused by illness, as some- 
s ,. H . times, though rarely occurs, they are almost always 

caused by extreme dryness of the scalp or by harsh 
treatment. 

Some women and some operators brush or comb the hair with 
more vigor than a horseman would allow to be used upon the tail of 
a favorite horse. In this way, they overstrain the hair and break 
it, especially if it be brushed or combed harshly while wet. The 
result is uneven hair and split ends. 

The hair must be handled with a view to preserving each indi- 
vidual hair as long as possible; it is much easier to preserve than 
to replace it. Be patient and gentle in combing and brushing; coax 
the tangles out gently with the comb. The purpose of the brush is 
to gently stroke and not to brush out the tangles or to roughly strain 
or split the hair. 

Very long hair is not now considered the crown of 

s - . beauty. If a woman possesses moderately long, thick 

hair, she is fortunate. Length can well be sacrificed 

so that the short and new hairs may receive more of the nourishment 

given out by the roots. 



74 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The advisability of cutting the hair for the purpose of encour- 
aging better growth, even in cases of fever, is questioned by eminent 
authorities; but the balance of opinion is that cutting the ends of 
the hair, regularly, stimulates its growth. 

With the scalp properly nourished by good circulation, a new 
hair will form shortly after an old one falls out. 

If it seems advisable to cut the hair, clip off as much as is 
desirable from the ends, then separate the hair into small strands. 
Twisting a strand tightly and holding the end with left hand, pass 
the first finger and thumb of right hand lightly along the strand 
from the bottom upward. This will cause the short ends to spring 
out from the coil. Then go over the entire coil, clipping off all these 
ends or singeing them with a lighted taper. One can do the clipping 
herself, but the singeing should be done by another, as the taper 
must be handled very rapidly to prevent burning the hair too much. 
New hairs are constantly growing so that all heads, if in a healthy 
state, must have short hairs. 

Operators, who have not studied scientifically into the formation 
of the hair, caution one against clipping the ends of the hair, and 
argue in favor of singeing it, stating that the hair bleeds when 
clipped. The hair shaft is a compact mass of cells and cannot bleed ; 
but singeing the hair does, curl up the ends slightly and prevents its 
re-splitting. If the hair be thoroughly nurtured at the scalp, and 
sufficient oil be secreted by the sebaceous glands to make the hair 
soft and flexible, it will not split, unless handled very harshly. 

The indiscriminate use of the electric brush, or 

Electricity electricity applied to the scalp in any way, is unadvis- 

able. Many hair parlors, are equipped with the electric 



THE HAIR 75 

brush, and apply this brush to, every head of hair treated, while 
many heads of hair are already too strongly electrified. 

Every massage of the scalp will produce a natural electric cur- 
rent, by friction. As a rule, the massage parlors give this electric 
treatment in place of giving sufficient massage, simply because it is 
more quickly done, but the electric brush, in no manner takes the 
place of the natural electricity, resulting from ten to fifteen minutes ' 
thorough massage. 

By regular manipulative movements, once a day, of one's own 
scalp, a little electricity is excited daily and is far more effective 
than the electric brush once a week. If the hair is inclined to be dry, 
a too strong current of electricity will dry it still further. On the 
whole, the safest way is to apply no current except that naturally 
incited through massage. 

When bathing in salt water, the hair should not 

Sea Bath'ne- ^ e a ^ owe( ^ *° & e ^ we ^' as the brine slightly bleaches 
it, and causes it to fall out. For this reason, rubber 
caps are provided. In case the hair becomes wet, it should be thor- 
oughly shampooed as soon after a sea bath as possible. Do not let 
the salt water dry into the hair or be exposed to the sun a moment 
longer than necessary. 

The particles of foreign matter must be washed from the hair 
and scalp, in case the cap falls off, else trouble may result and the 
scalp become irritated. 

If irritated, attend closely to cleanliness, massage and the appli- 
cation of a little oil. Avoid a stimulating tonic at this time. 

Bathing in fresh water, lakes, or rivers, is not 

Fresh Water 

B ,. injurious to the hair. I would suggest that you tie 

or braid it securely, about half way down the length 



76 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of the hair, to prevent it snarling before going into the water; then 
loosen it, shake it out and give it a good sunning and ventilating 
while resting on the beach. Eun the fingers through it as directed 
under "Daily Care," and give it a good brushing upon returning 
to your room. 

There is nothing prettier nor more pleasing to the 
CCan't' ^ e ^ e ' ^ nan a well-groomed head of white hair. It lends 
a softness to the face and features, which is admired by 
almost all people and one fails to understand why a hair dye should 
be applied to this softer, more beautiful setting. Being more delicate 
than during its natural coloring, it requires more careful handling. 

On account of its tendency to turn yellowish it should be sham- 
pooed at least every one, two or three weeks, and the directions fol- 
lowed for "Gray Hair" under "Shampooing." 

One important method for achieving pretty gray hair is by the 
use of a long soft bristle brush. For, by applying it— even though 
the hair is inclined to come out easily— the fall is not increased and 
the brushing will accomplish much by way of taking out the dust and 
strengthening the roots. The brush should be used, not by drawing 
close down against the scalp, as would be done were one trying to 
bring lustre to the surface, but as a clothes brush might be applied, 
lifting the hair in strands and bringing the bristles through in short, 
sharp strokes that will raise the dust and take it out. In this point 
lies the value of the treatment, and unless the brush is wielded in 
such a way as to dust rather than brush, the whole object has failed. 

There are two kinds of gray hair; premature, which occurs 
before the age of forty ; and senile, occurring after that period. The 
former can be materially checked by the right kind of treatment, but 



THE HAIR 77 

the latter must be accepted as a natural heritage of maturing age; 
yet it can be retarded, not making its appearance until a ripe old 
age, if the scalp has been kept well nourished by good blood and the 
nerves not subjected to severe strain. 

Authorities do not agree as to just why the hair turns, but there 
are three theories : first, that it is due to diminution or absence of 
coloring pigment in the blood ; second, that because of nerve tension, 
the coloring matter at the roots is diminished; third, that the air 
enters the cortex or middle layer of the hair shaft, causing a separa- 
tion between the pigment cells. Just what causes the air to enter 
the cortex is not known, but the failure of the hair to be kept soft 
by its natural oil would make the shaft more brittle. 

When due to lack of pigment, the hair has a slight yellowish 
tint ; when due to the presence of air in the shaft, it is snow-white. 

Dry hair, as a rule, turns gray more quickly than that which 
has a normal amount of oil. It may be because the air more readily 
enters the cortex of a dry hair shaft and by capillary attraction causes 
the hair to become gray the entire length of the hair shaft as soon, 
or almost as soon, as it turns gray at the root, and it may be that 
the condition, which restricts the coloring matter about the root, also 
restricts the oil. 

Neglect of the scalp will cause grey hair. In cases where the 
secretions of the scalp are acrid, a fungus grows to the hair-shaft, 
in the follicle and is firmly attached to it, living upon the follicle and 
its surroundings, very much as some forms of moss live upon trees. 
There are four kinds of these fungi, all of them of the lowest veg- 
etable order. They furnish lime to the color-cells, and this is carried 



78 BEAUTY A DUTY 

by the color-cells into the cavity of the hair-shaft, where it kills the 
original color. 

In grey hair resulting from age, the coloring process dies out, 
and the color cells, in the tube of the hair, are replaced by a kind of 
pith, having wide air-spaces between its particles. Hair in that con- 
dition may remain in full growth, and perfect health and vigor. 

Women often turn grey on the top of the head, where the hair 
is coiled, before any other spot. This may be due to lack of stimula- 
tion of the scalp, because of the heat, the imperfect circulation and 
a consequent accumulation of dandruff. 

As previously mentioned, the pulling of one grey hair does not 
cause two to grow. It would seem more reasonable that the pulling 
of a grey hair, and then the bringing of plenty of nourishment to the 
root through massage, would bring more pigment and nourishment 
to the root, causing a natural-colored hair to grow from the root 
from which the grey hair was pulled. 

Neither is it true that too frequent washing, if properly done, 
turns the hair. If, however, too strong alkali be used in the soap or 
shampoo preparations, this, by drying the scalp and the hair shaft, 
making it more brittle, may have its effect. Too strong soaps used 
on the face, the alkalis drying the roots of the hair, may be one 
reason for the early blanching about the hair line. 

It is probable that the early blanching at the temples may be 
due to the large temporal nerves lying close to the surface here. 
The fact that the early blanching is often about the branching of 
these nerves on the top of the head seems to bear out this theory. 

It is indisputably true that the nerves, by their control of capil- 
lary circulation, play a most important part in the blanching of the 



THE HAIR 79 

hair, as illustrated by the fact that a large number of cases of grey- 
ness are aggravated by worry, trouble or excessive nerve strain. 

It would seem as though the tendency to defective pigment, or 
coloring matter, may be inherited, as it seems to run in some families. 
Where this tendency exists, like other inherited tendencies, every 
care should be taken to correct it. It may be that many so-called 
inherited tendencies are the result of infection of dandruff, com- 
municated from the scalp of one member of a family to another. If 
dandruff exists it should be immediately corrected. 

Premature greyness is traceable to any one of the 

Premature „ „ 

G H . following causes : 

Dandruff, depleted nervous system, or diseases of 
the nerves, severe headaches, undue exposure to either heat or cold, 
excessive mental work, or, in fact, excesses of all kinds. Sickness, 
such as neuralgia, which affects the nerves of the head and the blood 
supply, and consequently the nourishment of the hair, is also respon- 
sible for this change. 

When grey hair comes in spots or patches, the color can usually 
be restored by regular stimulation with tonics and massage. This 
condition is known as Alopecia Areata. 

If taken in time, premature blanching can be made to remain 

partial, if the physical condition is put right. As. the change in the 

color of the hair takes place at its root, it is evident that it is with 

the latter we must work if new life and activity are to be promoted. 

Regular scalp massage, which frees all sebaceous glands and brings 

nourishment to the roots, is the best remedy. A little vaseline or 

any pure oil may be applied to the scalp in the massage to aid in 

loosening contracted glands and tissues. 
6 



80 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The darker the hair, the more likely it is to grow grey, hence 
we see more prematurely grey brunettes than blonds. 

Premature grey hair is drier and somewhat coarser and in every 
way shows lack of vitality; it is then apparent that the prevention 
lies in keeping up the general vitality, thus nourishing the roots, 
which prevents it getting too dry. 

Numerous cases have been recorded where the hair turns grey 
as a result of extreme nerve strain, severe illness, neuritis or neu- 
ralgic headaches and in a short time, if the strain is removed, and 
proper attention given the scalp, the hair resumes its natural color. 

Often where the hair has started to grow grey, a new growth of 
hair of a natural color will come in around the grey hairs, by regular 
stimulation and nourishment of the roots, gained through daily mas- 
sage. The writer has personally watched these dark hairs, appear, 
where previously the new hairs had been coming in grey. Whether 
the massage awakened vitality in dormant roots, or whether roots, 
which had previously been growing grey hairs, were awakened to 
stronger life is not known, but certain it is that grey hairs were 
arrested, the roots, awakened to more vigor and a new supply of dark 
growth appeared. 

If the hair of a moustache or beard, or the hair of any other part 
of the body is turning grey, the chances of restoring the coloring 
on the head are very slight. 

Since there seems to be no means known to science, in the majority 
of cases, for the natural turning of grey hair to its normal color, 
every care should be given to arrest the change in the beginning by 
renewing the vitality through regular exercise, that a good circula- 
tion be promoted, especially through the vital organs., so that the 



THE HAIR 81 

impurities be eliminated through the kidneys, intestines, lungs and 
skin ; to proper food ; to rested nerves ; to fresh air ; to cleanliness oi 
the scalp and to regular scalp massage, which causes, a free action 
of the capillaries about the hair roots. Regular, daily scalp massage 
is of the utmost importance if grey hair is to be arrested. 

For cleaning grey hair see chapter under "Shampoo." 

As a rule, I do not approve of bleaching or dyeing 
j rj ■ the hair, as it tends to change the individuality of the 
woman and to give her a more or less frivolous 
appearance. 

I do not see why a woman who has beautiful brown, black or 
auburn hair should want to bleach it. She thus puts upon herself 
the task of keeping it from showing its natural color as it comes in 
and of caring for the hair line where the difference is most per- 
ceptible, besides subjecting herself to unfavorable comment, because 
of the lack of harmony between her "newly made" hair and her 
complexion, eyes and brows. 

If, however, one is determined to have her hair bleached, it 
should be done by a specialist and should be attended to regularly 
at least once a week, for the new hair always comes in in its natural 
color and it is necessary to doctor it regularly. 

To bleach the hair on the hands, the arms or 
Bleaching Hair 
on Arms an ^ P ar * °^ ^ e ^ )0 ^' was h them thoroughly with 

soap and then in a clean, warm water and dry thor- 
oughly; then apply peroxide of hydrogen mixed with one-third am- 
monia, using a brush. This is perfectly harmless and is one of the 
best antiseptic cleansers. Apply for three or four days in succession 
being careful to thoroughly clean the parts before applying. Peroxide 



82 BEAUTY A DUTY 

is usually sold by druggists in a "ten volume" solution. Ask your 
druggist for pure, fresh peroxide of this strength. 

Permanganate of potash, a half dram to an ounce of water, 
applied with a brush, is also used to bleach the hair of the head. 

There would seem to be more reason in a 
dD eSt0rerS woman's wishing to keep the natural color of her 
hair, when it begins to turn grey, and there are many 
hair dyes and ''hair restorers" which are harmless. All "hair 
restorers" contain dyes, and dyed or restored hair, no matter how 
expertly done, can be detected. It never has the same soft gloss 
and luster as before, and the dye must be applied along the hair line 
at least once a week, or the hair will come in grey, as formerly. 

There are many hair bleaches and hair restorers and dyes on 
the market, and yet I feel that if one is determined to resort to the 
dyeing process, she should go to a first-class hair specialist. 

However, if a woman desires to conceal the coming greyness 
and at the same time give to her hair an auburn tinge, in a perfectly 
harmless way, she may use the following treatment : For dark hair 
get the dried henna leaves; take three tablespoons, pour on a quart 
of boiling water and steep. Wash the hair thoroughly, taking care 
to remove all grease, and rinse thoroughly. Pour the henna tea into 
a small wash basin and apply thoroughly to every strand of hair. 
Run the hair through the henna water several times, taking care that 
the hair roots are treated. Now fold the hair about the head and 
hold it there either under a towel or with a few hair pins 
for half an hour; rinse in cold water and dry. Remove 
stain on the scalp with alcohol and protect the hands with a pair 
of old gloves. During the last rinsing some of the henna may 



THE HAIR 83 

rinse off, but enough will remain to give the desired tinge. If the 
hair is not dark enough, when dry, repeat the process. 

This color will wash out when the hair is shampooed again, but 
may be restored as before and in the same manner. There is danger, 
however, of not getting it exactly the same shade each time it is 
washed. 

Unlike metallic dyes, henna does not irritate the scalp or impair 
the texture of the hair. 

For blond hair, the powdered brown henna must be used. Make 
a paste with a little water, apply evenly and thoroughly to the hair, 
after washing and rinsing. Allow it to remain on a few moments, 
then rinse off the paste and the desired color should remain. If not 
deep enough, repeat. A little experiment will produce the tone 
desired. 

Hair restorers upon the market, and which one sees advertised, 
are slow-acting dyes and where they are applied they should be used 
twice a day, one day a week, and the hair should be dried in the sun 
or in a bright light. Every hair should be thoroughly gone over so 
as not to leave in streaked. To keep this up twice a day, one day a 
week, and not to lapse for a few weeks, surely requires patience, for 
if at any time one lapses the hair looks faded and the new hair at 
the roots is grey. 

Some hair restorers contain lead and sulphur. Many cases are 
on record where the use of the lead preparations has resulted in 
lead poisoning, and artists, or others, who work with lead prepara- 
tions should be careful of them. On account of this danger, the 
manufacture of lead dyes or restorers has been forbidden in Ger- 
many and in some American states. 



84 BEAUTY A DUTY 

In all cases where a restorer or dye is used, the hair should be 
thoroughly washed and dried before the preparation is applied. 

They are best applied by a small brush. 

All dyes and hair restorers act by fixing their coloring matter 
into the substance of the hair. 

Many restorers turn cloudy when exposed to the light, and are 
therefore put up in colored glass bottles. They should be kept 
securely corked. 

Walnut shells which are gathered when the fruit is about ready 
for picking, or the green fleshy shuck about the nut, pounded in a 
mortar, stewed in water and then strained, form a harmless dye, 
which gives a brown tint to gray hair. 

If this is needed at a season when the green shells are not pro- 
curable, the chopped walnut leaves may be used. 

If it is desired to keep this for any length of time, olive or sweet 
almond oil or odorless castor oil should be added to it. It should 
be allowed to remain in a warm place until the coloring matter has 
permeated the oil, then turned into a jar while hot and tightly sealed. 

Metallic dyes, as a rule, contain two different solutions, which 
are applied successively: nitrate of silver, the actual dye material 
in the solution, and hyposulphate of soda the fixing bath. 

I am not giving hair dye formulas here, for under no conditions 
should one attempt this process for one's self. It should be applied 
only by the most careful expert. 

Hair restorers will fade out a sickly hue, going through this 
process for months before the hair comes back to its. normal coloring ; 
but hair once dyed, whether it suits the complexion, or whether 
it shows its lustreless dye or not, can never be brought back. One 



THE HAIR 85 

must endure the humiliation of the distinctive line between the 
dyed part and the original color as the new hair comes in. Since the 
hair grows only four to six inches a year, one can readily see how 
long the mortifying period would last. Often as the hair near the 
roots grows out, and the dye is applied week by week, it overlaps 
the edges last dyed, making it darker and there is a streak around 
the head a half inch to an inch from the scalp which is darker than 
the rest. 

Hair dyeing is a very unsatisfactory process and we wonder 
how many would repeat the process, if it were possible to have their 
original brown, black or blond locks once more, even though they 
were sprinkled with a beautiful white. 

The only true restorer is sometimes gained by thorough mas- 
saging of the scalp, daily, to keep a good circulation of Nature's 
tonic and restorer— Pure Blood. 

The causes of superfluous hair upon the faces 

CHirsuties') °^ women * s uot fully determined— sometimes no 

cause can be traced ; but one skin specialist states 
that in fully one-third of the cases some female weakness exists— 
most frequently amenorrhea. The menstrual function certainly 
seems to exert some influence, as shown in the more frequent develop- 
ment after the meno-pause. 

Exposure to X-Kays, as in acne, is sometimes followed by 
superfluous hair. The continued use of sulphur on the face may 
also cause these— therefore, the importance, as elsewhere stated, of 
not using creams, powders, etc., of which the ingredients are 
unknown. 

As the life of the root must be destroyed, if the hair is to be 
gotten rid of, it necessarily follows that the only reliable method of 



86 BEAUTY A DUTY 

permanently removing superfluous hair is electrolysis, which causes 
a current of electricity to pass through the root of the hair, killing 
it effectually. The process is an American invention and has been 
proven a great success, but it is absolutely necessary that it be done 
by an expert operator, who understands the degree of electrical cur- 
rent needed for perfect results and who knows, also, the set of the 
hair in its bulb, so that the electric needle can be guided accordingly. 
The after treatment is also of essential importance or the scars may 
be permanent. It is not safe to undertake this treatment for one's 
self. 

It sometimes, occurs that the fine hairs interspersed between the 
ones operated upon are stimulated to stronger growth, but of this 
we are not sure. It is true that other superfluous hairs come, where 
at one time they were all removed. 

Do not let a mere downy growth worry you, if it is apparent to 
but the most critical eye, but if you are troubled with any superfluous 
hair on the lip, chin or neck, which is really disfiguring, I would 
advise you to consult a first-class operator in electrolysis and depend 
upon her skill and judgment. 

A depilatory for hair on the arms, or other parts of the body, 
may be made of one-third corn starch and two-thirds barium sulphate. 
Mix with water until the consistency of cream and rub the paste on 
the affected parts. Leave until it begins to smart and then scrape off 
with a knife. 

Let me remind you again that the best and only re- 
Tonics liable hair tonic is a good supply of pure blood, rich in 
nourishment. Blood is Nature's building material and can 
always be relied upon, if pure. Let me say here, again, also, most 



THE HAIR 87 

emphatically, that the most effective stimulus to the nerves and to 
the circulation, which brings the blood to the roots of the hair, is the 
electricity caused by the friction of scalp massage. All the tonics 
in the drug stores cannot equal this stimulus. 

If my directions for ' ' Daily Care of the Hair ' ' be followed regu- 
larly, tonics will not be needed. They are, however, often an aid in 
more quickly bringing abused scalps to a normal condition. Remem- 
ber to massage the tonic thoroughly into the scalp, because the 
greatest virtue of the tonic is the good blood brought to the scalp by 
the massage required to rub it in. 

All tonics should be rubbed into the scalp once a day until the 
hair is growing nicely and one should be careful, in massaging, to 
use the fleshy part of the fingers and not to allow the nails to scratch 
the scalp. 

The best way to apply a tonic is to pour a small quantity into 
a saucer, part the hair with a comb, dip a small sponge or tooth 
brush into your saucer, then press it upon the scalp. Part the hair 
again, an inch from first parting, and go over the entire scalp in this 
way, the object being to apply the tonic only to the roots and not to 
the hair. A tonic comb with hollow rubber teeth has recently been 
put on the market. It saves many times its price by applying the 
tonic to the scalp — where it should be applied — without wasting it on 

the hair shaft. 

Tonics, as a rule, are composed of three kinds of ingredients : 
1. Oils which are needed for lubrication, when the sebaceous 
glands are inactive (it will be noted that your tonic should not con- 
tain oil if your hair is too oily). Oil of sweet almonds, vaseline, olive 
oil or, in fact, any pure oil will do. 



88 BEAUTY A DUTY 

2. Germicides— Besorcin or sulphur is almost always used for 
this. A tonic containing resorcin or sulphur is used more partic- 
ularly when dandruff exists. 

3. Cantharides, or rubefacients, which irritate the ends of the 
nerve filaments of the skin, causing a contraction and then a disten- 
tion of the capillaries ; they fill with blood and thus bring more nour- 
ishment to the hair roots. Alcohol is a well-known example, witch 
hazel, Eau de Cologne and Pond's Extract, which are largely alcohol, 
are the most common rubefacients. 

When all that is desirable is to bring a free supply of blood to 
the scalp, by stimulating capillary activity, a little witch hazel, Eau 
de Cologne or Pond's Extract, which is a preparation of witch hazel 
and is supposed always to contain pure alcohol, is as good as any 
prepared formula. 

Eau de Cologne (water of Cologne) is simply rectified com- 
mercial alcohol, perfumed, and acts as a stimulus to the nerves. It 
will be noted that Eau de Cologne or witch hazel is used in nearly 
all tonics and they, as. well as Pond's Extract, are often used as 
tonics without other ingredients. 

While alcohol, or spirits in any form, dry the scalp, they also 
stimulate the nerves and, if applied with thorough manipulation of 
the scalp, the flow of natural oil is increased, which more than com- 
pensates for the dryness. Care should be taken to keep the spirits 
from the hair, as much as possible, or they will dry it too much, and 
the object of all tonics is to affect the roots and not the hair shaft. 

Alcohol also preserves the other ingredients in the tonics. 

Witch hazel, or Hamamelis, is made from the leaves of the 
Hamamelidis Virginica and alcohol. The properties of this drug 



THE HAIR 89 

are not fully known. It is thought to be tonic, astringent and sedative 
and affects the circulation in a manner similar to aconite. It is a 
" rubefacient, causing primarily a strong contraction of the capillaries, 
which rapidly react, causing a distention and a freer blood supply. 
The effect of witch hazel or Pond's Extract, in creating capillary 
activity, is readily shown by applying it to the face. The capillaries 
distend and the skin is aglow. 

If you are not sure of the purity and kind of alcohol in witch 
hazel, use Pond's Extract. Pure witch hazel, or Pond's Extract, 
may be used upon the skin freely; but witch hazel made of wood 
alcohol is injurious to the eyes. Hamamelis, or witch hazel, and 
Pond's Extract are practically the same. 

Resorcin and Sulphur are antiseptic. They are germ killers and 
used in hair tonics, because of this characteristic. A tonic con- 
taining resorcin should not be used more than two or three times 
in succession. Soap, soda, potash or ammonia should not be used 
after using resorcin as the tint of the hair may be altered. 

Chloral Hydrate acts as a depressant to the cerebral, medul- 
lary and spinal nerves and is also an anesthetic. 

Chloroform is a rubefacient and is obtained by the action of 
chlorated lime in methyl alcohol. It is used as an irritant for the 
ends of the nerve filaments, causing a distention of the capillaries 
and thus a freer blood supply. 

The bay rum sprayed into the hair by the barber after the sham- 
poo has no particular tonic effect. It does not reach the scalp. It 
moistens the hair slightly and has a pleasant odor. 

Jaborandi is especially valuable for stimulating the ends of 
nerves affecting the secretions, thus increasing the perspiration. 



90 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Hair creams are mostly made of oil of sweet almonds and lime 
water, scented with a few drops of perfume. 

Sweet Almond Oil, Lanoline, Vaseline, Cocoanut and Brilliantine, 
which is odorless Castor Oil, supply the oil when it is lacking in the 
sebaceous glands and act as lubricants, when the natural oil is 
wanting. 

Pomade, which is seldom used now, is simply another name fos 
scented oil. 

It must be remembered that any one particular tonic wears itself 
out in time, and a tonic should be changed at least once a month. 
It is sometimes well to apply one tonic for a week and then another 
tonic for the next week, etc. 



On page & is given one of the best formulas for a general hair tonic. The following is an 
excellent formula for dandruff: 

Extract of jamborandi i oz. 

Extract of hamamelis, or witch hazel 2 oz. 

Cocoanut oil }4 oz. 

Resorcin 30 gr. 

Eau de Cologne 6 oz. 

Not all druggists keep in stock the materials for making the best tonics. 



THE HAIR 91 

Daily Care of the Hair in Health 

Upon first arising, before combing, run the fingers 
Morning through the hair, shaking it free from the scalp. 

Then massage the scalp gently, so as to loosen it and 
bring a good circulation to the roots of the hair. If done regularly, 
three minutes a day will be sufficient, and will be more effective than 
an hour's treatment weekly by an expert masseuse. 

Then separate the hair into at least six strands and brush each 
strand thoroughly, ten to fifteen times. 

If possible, stand or sit in the sunshine while attending to your 
hair. The best tonic for the scalp, as for the skin on other parts 
of the body, is fresh air and light, and particularly the sunlight. 

For those who have time and convenience during the 
Evening day, it is a good plan to let the hair down in the sunshine. 
Shake it loose and let the rays of the sun reach the 
scalp. 

Always let the hair down at night. 

Comb the snarls out with a coarse comb. 

Separate into strands and brush each gently ten to fifteen times. 

Then run the fingers through the hair, a few inches from the 
scalp and shake the hair loose so as to ventilate the scalp. 

Either braid it very loosely or else let it lay spread out over 
the pillow. 

If braided, do not let the first plaiting come within six inches of 
the scalp and so adjust the braid after retiring, as to leave the hair 
about the scalp loose and free. 



92 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Japanese women, who perhaps have the most luxuriant hair of 
any nationality, are very particular to spread the hair over the pil- 
low at night so as to thoroughly ventilate both the hair and the scalp. 

If the hair be let loose over the pillow and combed and brushed 
before retiring and ventilated, combed and brushed in the morning, 
with one scalp massage of three minutes either in the evening, morn- 
ing or during the day, your hair will respond in health and tone as the 
body responds to hygienic care and treatment. If, with the above 
advice it does not, then attention should be given to the physical 
condition, particularly to the circulation, the condition of the nerves, 
the building up of pure blood, the free breathing and perfect elimina- 
tion of the waste of the system through its natural channels, the kid- 
neys, lungs, intestines and skin. These results are often attained 
through regular exercise, deep breathing and proper diet. 

If any special treatment is required for dandruff, for dry scalp, 
too oily hair, or to preserve the hair line, or to strengthen the eye- 
brows or eye-lashes, these things are best attended to just before 
retiring. 

Don'ts and Whys 

Don't brush, comb or shampoo the hair too strenuously, the 
delicate filaments and roots will not stand it. Be gentle. 

Don't remove a hair by force, the process is an unnatural one. 

Don't use a fine-tooth comb,— as it injures the scalp. 

Don't "rough" the hair,— the layers of the outer cuticle extend 
toward the end and become broken, if combed in the opposite direc- 
tion. 

Don't overheat the scalp by wearing too heavy a hat, or too 
much false hair, or by allowing the hair to remain dressed instead 



THE HAIR 93 

of loose over night, or by wrapping the head to keep the hair in curl. 

Don't use strong alkalis to lighten the color of the hair,— they 
may cause early grey hair. 

Don't let the hair get wet when sea bathing,— the salt water 
slightly bleaches it and often causes it to fall out. 

Don't hold the head too near an artificial light, or fire for any 
length of time,— the overheating of the scalp is injurious. 

Don't use a comb or hair brush belonging to any one else,— scalp 
diseases are communicable. 

Don't pull or strain the hair in drying, brushing or combing— 
be gentle with it. 

Don't neglect to have the scalp thoroughly washed just as often 
as it is dirty. Under average conditions this will be about every 
two weeks. 

Don't forget that falling hair, baldness and premature grey hair 
are most often caused by seborrhea or other diseased conditions. 

Don't comb or brush the hair when wet. It strains it too much. 

Don't experiment with hair lotions, shampoo mixtures, tonics, 
etc., with the ingredients of which you are not at all familiar. 

Don't neglect to have your comb or brush washed or disinfected 
at least once a week. 

Don't neglect to take your own comb and brush when you go to 
the hair dresser's. 

Don't forget that oily and greasy applications to the scalp, 
especially if the oil be rancid, may be charged with bacteria. 

Don't use a wire hair brush or wire comb. A single bristled 
brush of not too hard bristles is preferable. 



94 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Hair Dressing 

There is no one thing that more greatly adds to or detracts from 
a woman's appearance and facial expression than the manner in 
which she arranges her hair. 

Let her hair be becomingly arranged and she is bound to be 
called a woman of some charm, whatever her form or feature. 

Softness and becoming lines in arrangement help greatly in 
preserving a youthful expression of the face. 

Neatness goes far toward counteracting shabbiness of costume, 
while the most costly gown will not prevent a woman from looking 
actually untidy if her hair be neglected. 

This does not mean that a woman's hair need be "spatted to 
slickness"; on the contrary, most women should avoid severity, espe- 
cially after the first youthful lines begin to disappear. But fluffiness 
may be kept "within bounds," may partake of order and symmetry. 

The manner of dressing the hair becomes a habit— and all habits 
are easy because they require no conscious direction of the will. It 
takes no more time to dress the hair becomingly, than otherwise, 
though it takes a little time in experimenting, at first, to determine 
the most becoming mode, but when fixed upon, it is easy. 

It is not the amount of time spent in arranging one's hair that 
counts. The woman who has found just the right spot on her head 
where the coil should go ; has learned just how fluffy or how flat the 
hair around her face should be, can often arrange her hair in a few 
moments with better effect than the woman can who spends hours each 
day over the operation. 

Dark hair, especially, usually looks best in some arrangement 
that is neatly symmetrical; while the blond may sometimes let her 



"O wad some Power the giftie gie us 
To see oursels as iihers see usl 
It wad frae mony a blunder free us 
An' foolish notion. 

— Robert Burns. 




w*^y 



*r 




THE HAIR 95 

golden curls blow free without being in danger of looking untidy. 
But rare indeed— and fortunate, too— is the woman who can give 
her hair a "twist and a pin" and still look charming. 

There is. no denying that a woman's hair requires care and time; 
but care and time thus spent are abundantly rewarded. Even the 
so-called "careless" arrangement, if charming, is almost invariably 
the result of careful carelessness; a carelessness that is the result 
of close study of effect, that the apparent looseness may mean 
"security" and that each "stray" lock may be exactly where it is, 
because it lends particular charm just in that particular place and 
position. 

The manner of dressing the hair cannot be 
d Sh f H d nxe d by any set rule or style, as the outline of 

the face and the shape of the head must be con- 
sidered. Too many women dress the hair according to the dictates 
of fashion, regardless of the contour of the head, or the face, or the 
arch and sweep of the hair line. Faces, features, heads and even 
personalities differ so materially in women, that all of these things 
must be considered if one would preserve her natural appearance, 
when dressing the hair. 

As the hair is such an important agency in changing the expres- 
sion of the face, the frame it forms must be right, to enhance the 
features, and to throw into shadow those which it is not desirable to 
emphasize, as explicitly illustrated later. 

Whether for a matron or a young girl, the 
M t Eff t' simple and effective dressing of her own hair una- 
dorned is always more pleasing and more attractive 
because genuine. The tendency of young girls and young women 

7 



96 BEAUTY A DUTY 

to load the head with wire or hair rolls, braids, puffs or curls, until 
their hair dressing overshadows every other feature, is not only 
poor taste, but grotesque. It not only suggests falsity, rather than 
the open frankness of nature which is so much admired in a young 
woman, but must also have its reflex effect upon the character of 
the girl, in her effort to seem to be something which she is not. 

Heavily stuffed and elaborately ''upholstered" effects are 
seldom becoming. Heads padded out in this abnormal fashion look 
disproportionately large and cause one to speculate as to how often 
this foundation is taken down for ventilation of the scalp. The 
thought that one "sleeps, in it" is unpleasantly suggestive and is 
liable to give rise to unfavorable criticism, besides being unhealthful. 

While we may admire an elaborate coiffure, worn by a matron, 
we admire more, simplicity in dressing one's own abundant tresses. 
Styles in head-dress may come and go, but one's own, abundant, well- 
cared-for, glossy hair, arranged becomingly never is out of style. 
Add a flower for evening wear, or a handsome comb if you wish, but 
strictly avoid overloading, for by so doing you detract from the 
refinement and intelligence of your face. The office of true art is 
to bring out the best in nature, not to cover it up and the mission 
of these lessons will have been fulfilled if they enable my pupils to 
realize the best possible for themselves. 

Surely the elaborate head-dress of Figure 5 is not to be com- 
pared in art, beauty or attractiveness, to the natural simplicity of 
Nos. 1, 2, 3, 13 and 14. 

Some patient experimenting will naturally 
Stvle B t f Y ^ e necessarv before you can determine the coif- 
fure best adapted to your own style of beauty, 
the shape of your head, your features, etc. I have given in these 



THE HAIR 97 

pages, directions for doing the hair in various ways, but you may 
find it desirable to vary the arrangement. 

Do not hesitate to make any modifications which your style may 
require or your own ingenuity invent, taking one detail from one 
style and another from another so you may discover the style best 
adapted for you, and may create an arrangement which will be to 
some extent original, thus giving you an individuality. This is always 
preferable to the slavish following of some prevailing fad. Be your 
own true self, always, but not so rigidly wedded to an old fashion 
that you cannot adopt a new and becoming one. The method of 
doing one's hair bespeaks the character as forcefully as any feature 
or manner. It, therefore, behooves us to see to it that our coiffure 
does, not misrepresent us; to see that its neat, becoming, softening 
arrangement expresses the beauty of character and the culture we 
desire to live and to express from day to day. 

Do not forget, however, to study each and every view-point,— 
the back, the top, and both sides, for the sides of the face and head 
are seldom alike and the hair will often grow differently on the sides. 
Also bear in mind all the questions on page 117, and, in the final result, 
see that the arrangement is neat, artistic and becoming from every 
angle, and that your friends, as well as you, yourself, approve. 

You can ascertain the style best for you more readily than any- 
one else. You have the best possible guides,— your own judgment 
and the verdicts of your family and friends. 

The members of one's family are not always unprejudiced 
judges. 

Remember that unfavorable criticism from your friends may 
be due to their not being accustomed to seeing you with your hair 



Thy heart's desire, God give it thee 
As comes the sap to thrill the tree; 

As comes the seed-life to the clod, 

God give thee, dear, the thoughts of God. 

— Margaret Sancstur. 



98 BEAUTY A DUTY 

dressed in the new way. Ask them to study carefully and impartially 
the effect, from different points of view, giving you a sincere opinion 
as to its becoming or unbecoming points. 

When you have once found a style that wins approval, then cling 
to it, perfect it, make it a part of your very personality, adopting 
only such features of a prevailing mode as suit your style, only 
changing for morning comfort, for full dress or for some special 
occasion, to another style, equally becoming. 

It is often necessary to dress the hair differently for evening or 
for certain gowns or hats. Especially is this true of evening dress, 
when the lower neck may entirely change the effect of the hair line 
and the general outline of the head as related to the lines of the neck 
and shoulders. 

A woman who dresses her hair plainly can seldom wear a low- 
necked gown with good effect. Fluffiness gives softness around the 
neck and makes the evening gown more becoming. A study of classic 
ideal heads shows that for centuries the need has been appreciated 
for softness about the neck, especially for evening dress. This is 
illustrated by Figures 5, 8, 13 and 14. 

When the "year stone" of forty has been passed, the lines 
should, in nearly all cases, be carried from the face upward. If the 
hair be carried straight back at the sides, as in Figure 6, or allowed 
to droop as in Figure 4, thus accentuating the drooping lines in the 
face, the effect will almost invariably be to add years, making the 
face look older than the years justify. 

How many plain faces, with hair drawn tight from the forehead 
or downward in a direction which emphasizes long lines of the face, 
could be made to loot young, handsome and attractive by the mere 



THE HAIR 99 

loosening of the hair and a change in the direction of its lines which 
would soften and dispel all harshness. A little time given to studying 
becoming lines in hair dressing is well spent. 

Study carefully what you think your face needs,— then try out 
your theories. The comments of a sincere friend of good taste will 
soon prove whether you are working in the right direction. What- 
ever the verdict, do not be discouraged, study your own features, and 
the faces and heads of others., also the various methods of dressing 
the hair, as suggested in accompanying illustrations. These very 
changes will benefit your hair; in fact it is desirable to form the 
habit of dressing the hair one way in the morning and another way 
for the afternoon or evening. It is a rest to the head and helps to 
keep the circulation of the scalp vigorous, by changing the pressure 
from the hair, hairpins, combs and hat. 

But when you have determined the two or three styles best for 
you, do not make the great mistake of changing with every fad, 
except to modify your own styles, or to freshen your coiffure by a 
new comb or pin, unless the "new style" happens to be one that suits 
your own type of beauty. On the other hand, one should not be 
"set" about dressing the hair in one way. A woman should not be 
averse to adopting the prevailing mode if it becomes her. Being 
abreast of the times, even in matters of hair dressing, helps a woman 
to feel herself in touch with the throb of progress, stimulates her 
to activity and advancement in matters pertaining to her whole life 
and her home, to the benefit of herself and her family. These 
desirable changes are also beneficial to the life and growth of the 
hair itself. 



100 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Nothing more quickly changes a woman's appearance than a 
change in the style of her hair dressing,— hence the importance of 
dressing it becomingly and hence, too, the importance of not changing 
it, except as she may improve or favorably change her appearance. 

Happily, most women understand themselves too well to make 
serious blunders in changing the manner of dressing the hair. While 
some will follow the fashion, regardless of whether it is becoming, 
there are large numbers of sensible, refined women who will not take 
up a mode too quickly and who study a style to know if it is becoming 
before they adopt it. 

The most correctly groomed and best dressed women of the day 
are individual, adopting only such modification of a style as suits 
and modernizes their contour. They never go to extremes; but, on 
the other hand there are many who rigidly adhere to one style of 
dressing without any effort to adopt such accessories of the style as 
are becoming and up-to-date. They are rigidly old-fashioned. 

Once the proper lines which conform with the face are under- 
stood, it is an easy matter to follow them. Habit is ease and it is as 
easy to dress the hair becomingly as unbecomingly when the habit 
of such dressing is formed. 

Careful attention should be given to the direction in 
d P'ns which pins and combs are put in. Pins put in straight 
up and down usually add length ; if thrust from the sides 
toward the center, they add breadth. Of combs, the reverse would 
probably be true, but much depends upon the shape of the orna- 
ments themselves and the position and angle given them. Watch, 
in your mirror, the effect of each ornament or comb, as you put it in, 
and adjust it to give the best effect. Note the absence of combs and 




13 





14 



15 




16 



THE HAIR 101 

ornaments in the beautiful examples shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, 8 
and 19. 

Right arrangement of your mirror will greatly aid 
Your Mirror in arranging the hair. If possible, have your dresser 
at right angles to your window, near one side of it. 
In the casing, at the other side of the window, put up a mirror that 
will show you the back of your head, as you sit or stand in front 
of your dresser or mirror. The second mirror can easily be 
arranged by putting up one of the swinging mirrors made for this 
purpose, or a triplicate mirror, or you can put a pair of hinges upon 
the wood frame of any ordinary mirror, attaching the hinges to the 
casing at the height desired. 

The entire expression of the face is 
Effect of Hair Dressing T ._ n „ , .. 

Upon Facial Expression modified, for better or worse, by the man- 
ner in which the hair is dressed. A face 
that has been hardened and aged by care and worry may be wonder- 
fully softened and years "subtracted" by an arrangement of the 
hair which so frames the face as to soften the lines. See Figure 4 
as contrasted with Figure 9. If the dear old face of Figure 4 had 
the hair dressed with softened waves, a few of the lines of both hair 
and cap curving upward, the features would have been wonderfully 
softened. As it is, every line of both hair and cap emphasize the 
sorrowful, long lines of the face. 

On the other hand, however lovely the character, an expression 
of hardness, even of boldness, and premature age, may be produced 
by indifferently dressed hair. (See Illustrations 15, 18 and 19.) 
Few women's faces can stand the hair drawn back from the forehead 
especially after they have passed the age of forty. The face then 



102 BEAUTY A DUTY 

needs the softening shadows of the hair. It is a mistake to imagine 
that it takes a great deal of time and bother to have the hair always 
becomingly arranged about the face. 

To demonstrate how few people dress the hair becomingly, or 
in keeping with the contour of face and head, study any group of 
photographs, or the illustrations of women in almost any magazine. 

Patronizing the professional hairdresser may be 
„ . , . a convenience at times, but it is seldom necessary. 

Indeed, a woman is often more expert at doing her 
own hair than any professional hairdresser can be. There are some 
of the latter who study the art of expression and whose judgment 
one may safely trust, but there are more who are simply shampooers 
and have not the refinement nor taste of the woman herself. They 
do not know your individuality as you know it, nor will they, nor 
can they, as a rule, study to know the styles best adapted to your 
features, as well as you yourself know from years of self-study. 

Most women who study to make the most of their particular 
charms, prefer to dress their own hair, realizing that a woman can 
be her own best artist when it comes to self-improvement. 

Most professional hairdressers will invariably dress the hair in 
the prevailing mode, but it takes a finished artist to dress a woman's 
hair in a prevailing style and not make it look stiff and conventional 
at the expense of its being becoming. This stiffness detracts from 
the softness of the face and destroys the individuality of the woman, 
who becomes more an advertisement of the hairdresser's art than 
an expression of good taste and refinement. Note Figures 20, 25 
and 26 as an example of the hairdresser's art, and Figures 1, 2, 3, 11, 
12, 17 and 23 as illustrations of good home dressing. 






19 





21 



20 



THE HAIR 103 

If a woman can have the luxury of a maid or a hairdresser reg- 
ularly employed, she can train such an assistant to make a careful 
study of her personality, that her individuality of style may be 
maintained as consistently as though she dressed her own hair. 

Just as a photographer or an artist scrutinizes, 

H «5h d w ^k u ^ mos * care > the effect of light and shadow upon 

the face of his "sitter," so should every woman 

study the effect of lights and shadows upon her own face and she 

should learn to regulate them, as she can do, to a very great extent, 

by the aid of her hats and the manner of dressing her hair. 

Very frequently, if you analyze face and feature, you will find 
that the softening effect of the pompadour is largely due to the 
shadows it casts upon the face. This is equally true of a becoming 
hat. Unless you have a beautifully smooth skin, study to let the 
pompadour or the hat, cast a partial shadow over the face. Prom- 
inent features and rough or irregular skin may be wonderfully 
"toned down" in this way. Study the photographs, in your collec- 
tion and note how a high, full forehead is softened by the shadow 
from pompadour or hat; then experiment with your own features 
by modifying the arrangement of your own pompadour, pulling it 
down here, pushing it up there, until you have the most becoming 
effect. 

For definite illustration of this point, compare Figure 15 with 
Figure 13, also 4 with 9. Especially in the first two, note the won- 
derful change in the softness of the features, produced by the softer 
arrangement of the hair. Note also the boldness of the faces of 
Figures 5, 6 and 15. These features would be wonderfully softened 
by tempering the light upon the faces. To illustrate this the artist 



104 BEAUTY A DUTY 

has drawn some hair over the forehead of Figure 5, as illustrated 
by Figure 7. Note the softened expression lent by a few hairs over the 
forehead. 

The much abused pompadour has proved a good 
Pompadours friend to womankind, but if the hair is not sufficiently 
heavy or electrical to sustain a moderate height and 
contour without artificial support, do not pompadour it by "rough- 
ing," that is, brushing or combing it toward the scalp. This rubs 
the tiny scales composing the hair shaft backward, (see page 33), 
breaks the hair, and makes it look dry and bushy and causes it to 
lose its gloss, in fact it is a very "cruel" manner of treating such 
a beautiful, natural ornament as the hair. I have known many heads 
of beautiful hair to be utterly ruined in this way. If the hair, by 
being combed over the face and then turned backward, will not stand 
up sufficiently, it is far better to coil it over a wire pompadour as 
this is light and allows perfect ventilation. Because of this ventila- 
tion it is far more desirable than hair rats, or even rolls made from 
one's own hair. If the wire is inclined to show, cover it with a thin 
wave or fringe of natural hair, preferably from your own head. 
This may be woven to a narrow selvedge for convenience and ar- 
ranged around the wire, a much better method than using loose comb- 
ings. The latter mat, fill with dust, collect bacteria and look untidy; 
they are exceedingly unwholesome, while the woven hair piece can be 
brushed out and kept clean. 

The hair rat of commerce, made from bacteria-laden weeds, or 
of the hair of the Chinese or Japanese— often clipped from dead 
bodies,— is too revolting to consider. 





i 



J 



23 




24 





25 



26 



THE HAIR 105 

In dressing the hair with a pompadour do not have the outline 
too regular. Any becoming variation lends softness to the face. The 
stiff, symmetrical pompadour is extremely trying to everyone. 
Especially lacking in grace is the pompadour which extends, in an 
unbroken circle, entirely around the head. 

The arrangement of the modern coiffure is rather 

f F 1 H ' a corQ pli ca t e d art, and nature's crowning and most 

alluring gift of natural, glossy, daintily dressed 

tresses, bids fair to be submerged and lost under the billows of these 

false hirsute adornments. (See Figures 25 and 26.) 

False hair is never to be recommended, except in cases of defi- 
ciency, and never to excess. With care in arrangement, the elaborate 
coiffure can nearly always be realized with one's own tresses, while 
the most "simple" effect may be a "delusion." (See Fig. 19.) 

It is true that some women lack the abundant, or even sufficient 
growth of hair necessary for an attractive or becoming arrangement 
of it, and in such cases, the judicious use of an extra puff or curl, 
to fill out a spot that nature has neglected, is pardonable, but the 
exaggerated amount of false hair, so often seen, is a detriment to 
the scalp and injures and retards the natural growth of the hair, 
while it also lends an air of falseness to the expression of the entire 
figure. These exaggerations also often give wrong contour and 
abnormal proportion to the head. (See Figures 21, 25 and 26.) 

Yet it is certainly a consolation to the woman whose hair is lim- 
ited in quantity to know that she can make up for the deficiency by 
puffs, braids, rolls or curls made of her own hair, or by purchasing 
them to match. The former is, of course, much preferred,— but it 

Thou wouldst be loved, if so, 

Then from thy present pathway part not. 

Be everything that thou art, 

Be nothing tliat thou art not; 

So with the world, thy gentle ways. 

Thy grace and more than beauty 

Will be an endless theme of praise, 

And love a simple duty. 

— Pos. 



106 BEAUTY A DUTY 

never really replaces live hair, for when cut from the head, all hair 
loses its luster and looks lifeless. 

Almost all false hair is brought from Japan or China in car- 
loads. It is usually black when it reaches this country but is bleached 
to the varying shades desired. It is not a pleasant thing to know 
that nearly all false hair is cut from dead bodies of Japanese or 
Chinese. It is bleached and refined by putting through different 
solutions of peroxide and acids, then through an indigo blue to give 
it the bluish cast. Some of the best of human hair on the market 
is grown for the purpose by European peasant girls, who wear it 
hanging and braided. The weight of the braids helps, to stimulate 
growth. There is very little naturally curly hair on the market. 
Almost all false hair is straight and must be kept in curl artificially. 

It is difficult to obtain white human hair in good quality, hence 
dealers have been obliged to resort to the hair of the kashmir goat 
of Syria. This resembles human hair very closely and is used in 
very large quantities nowadays. It grows from six to twelve inches 
in length and is slightly wavy. Commercially it is known as "Asiatic 
Hair." 

False hair was first regularly worn in England by Queen Eliza- 
beth. She had upwards of fifty wigs for her private use. 

Wigs were originally adopted, not as a remedy for baldness, but 
in the interest of personal cleanliness. The laws of ancient Egypt 
compelled all males to shave the head and beard. This explains 
why turbans were not worn by the Egyptians, the bushy, artificial 
hair being considered as a sufficient protection against the heat of 
the sun. The Eomans, on the contrary, wore wigs because they were 
naturally bald. 



THE HAIR 107 

Care should be taken not to overheat the scalp by piling on too 
many false pieces. If desirable to use any one or more of these acces- 
sories, be sure and remove them as soon as possible, when you reach 
the privacy of your room, so that the natural hair may have a chance 
to ventilate and the scalp be relieved of its strain and extra weight. 
One can imagine the heating and weight occasioned by the "uphol- 
stered, sausage ' ' effect produced by the hair in Figs. 21, 25 and 26. 

Rather than use false hair, increase the abundance of your own. 

If you properly care for your scalp and hair, as. per suggestions 
upon accompanying pages, false hair will seldom be needed. It is 
far easier to avoid growing old than it is to be rejuvenated. If we 
are to be young at sixty, we must begin preparations in youth, and 
never desist. Care expended in the twenties, tells mightily in the 
forties. It is never too early to begin prevention, that we may avoid 
the necessity of tedious mending. 

While I do not advocate or advise artificial hair or artificial 
coloring of the hair, the following incident is told to show that with 
care and discretion, a woman may even use an artificial touch to her 
advantage, as shown by Figs. 22 and 23. 

To illustrate the latter point, one woman, regarded as especially 
charming, was complimented upon the simplicity with which her 
hair was arranged. 

"A woman with hair as naturally beautiful as yours does not 
need to resort to costly gold ornaments and expensive combs," said 
her admirer. 

The admired smiled her sweetest thanks— and later showed a 
trustworthy "sister" the secret of that simplicity. It was some- 
thing like this: 



108 BEAUTY A DUTY 

"First see that the other woman's rat is nicely waved— that the 
other woman's switch is likewise waved and beautifully braided, — 
oh, don't be silly, my dear," she laughed, "it is lots easier to wave 
the other woman's hair than it is your own." 

"Now when I have waved my own a little, I divide it across, 
from ear to ear, separating the front pompadour from the back. 
Then I divide the back into three parts and fold each one nicely over 
this rat of natural hair, you see, exactly like mine. After bringing 
the three divisions of the back hair up over the rat, I tuck the ends 
in neatly,— mine is not very long,— then I divide the front into three 
parts and arrange that in a pompadour. After this all around pom- 
padour looks nice and symmetrical, I take the other madam 's switch, 
such a nice fluffy braid, and lay it around my crown, concealing 
where my pompadour is tucked under and with the full part of the 
switch to the front, giving me more breadth! Now I tuck this 
' simple ' twenty-seven dollar shell pin in at the back, to cover where 
madam's switch gets smaller at the ends— and there is your 'simple' 
coiffure, which is simple, after all. 

"You admire the golden glint as the sun shines through? Well, 
I don't mind telling you I have henna leaves to thank for that." 

The woman above mentioned was complimented, remember, for 
the simplicity with which she did her hair. She had transformed 
herself from the plain and unattractive to a handsome woman, yet 
had retained her natural simplicity and refinement because she had 
not overdone her "improvements," yet this false switch, and rat 
must have been heating to the scalp, and the application of henna 
a nuisance,— and to the critical eye, she must have given an expres- 
sion of falseness. Had she put the same amount of time upon the 



THE HAIR 109 

care of her own scalp, upon breathing, exposure to sunshine and 
making pure blood, "madam's" hair would not be needed. 

You can have the most satisfactory switch, puffs and curls pos- 
sible if you will save your own combings and then have them made 
up as desired. Keep the combings in a box, free from dust, and 
tangle them as little as possible. Do not wind them around the 
finger. 

The hair makes the most beautiful frame imag- 
The Hair Line inable for the human face and the hair line must 
not be allowed to lose its beautiful shaping, fullness 
and softness above the forehead, at the temples, in front of the ears 
or at the base of the neck. Any defect along these lines changes 
the expression of the face. 

Unfortunately, one rarely realizes how much of her youthful 
expression is due to the hair line until she suddenly awakens to find 
that the expression has become harsher— she is looking older. 

Unhappy day! Look to the growth of delicate downy hairs 
forming the frame to your face. Is your hair line receding or grow- 
ing ragged? By gently coaxing you may bring it back. 

If you wish to experiment with the change in expression given 
by different lines, draw your hair straight back from the face, next 
part it and smooth it toward the ears, then loosen and pompadour 
it— then comb some of the short ends down about the face and note 
how this softens. (See Fig. 5 as contrasted with 7, Fig. 6 as con- 
trasted with 10, and 18 as contrasted with 24.) Even the angle at 
which the hair is combed from the face entirely changes its expres- 
sion. If the hairs are combed downward they lend one expression, 
upward another. A break in the fullness of the hair line changes it 



110 BEAUTY A DUTY 

quite as much as the direction of the hair. Drawing the hair 
down so as to hide the corners of the temples, where the hair line 
is apt to recede first, may keep the general contour, but it never 
replaces the natural curve. (The above points are illustrated by 
many of accompanying illustrations, especially 4, 5, 6 and 15.) 

One must be patient in watching for results, but unless the roots 
are entirely dead, in almost every case the hair line can be regained 
in from two to three months, but the entire capillary circulation 
must be renewed, the scalp tissue strengthened and the blood be in 
good condition. It is not sufficient to treat only the line about the 
face. 

Should the hair line be destroyed at any point, new hair can 
generally be grown by gently massaging a very little white vaseline 
about the roots of the hair. This should be rubbed thoroughly into 
the scalp every day, if good results are to follow: 

Place the grouped fingers at the top of the forehead and, with 
a gentle, rotary movement of the finger tips, work the scalp towards 
the ears five or six times,— or until warm. 

I have frequently known an abundant fringe of hair, an inch 
in length, to be restored around the face in two months time. These 
results require merely patience and faithfulness, and are not 
uncommon. 

Do not comb or brush the hair too tightly back from the fore- 
head for you strain the delicate roots in pulling them back, opposite 
the set of the hair (see page 56). Many mothers comb or brush their 
children's hair tightly back from the face, and tie it there. This not 
only changes the entire expression and appearance of the child, but 
by pulling upon these roots about the hair line daily, the roots may 



THE HAIR 111 

be destroyed and the hair line made ragged and unbecoming, chang- 
ing the entire facial expression for life. When a child's hair is 
arranged straight back from the face it should be fastened loosely. 

A woman whose hair does not grow well down 
t th N k upon the neck deserves sympathy, as there are few 

ways in which she can dress her hair becomingly. 
This defect is especially unfortunate if the chin be long. The only 
way to counteract it is to dress the hair low, whether by so doing 
a woman produces the most favorable results, in other respects, or 
not. The effect of the hair line at this point is often unbecomingly 
elevated by the use of barettes and pins which also too sharply 
define the line at the neck, as illustrated by Figure 10. If these pins 
press at the base of the brain they retard circulation and injure the 
delicate nerves, there. When the chin is especially sharp, its sharp- 
ness is softened by leaving the hair loose at the back of the neck, or 
by dressing it low as in Fig. 24. 

Care must be exercised in the selection of 
th H * L' toilet soaps, as the strong alkali of many soaps 

used upon the face has a very bad effect upon 
the roots of the hair about the face. Strong soaps used about the 
hair line by the drying effect of alkali upon the roots may partly 
account for the hair turning gray there, first,— particularly if the 
soap is not carefully rinsed off each time. 

The short hairs along the hair line should not be rubbed back- 
ward when drying the face. Many people scrub the hair line, when 
washing, thus destroying the delicate hair so much needed about the 

face. 
8 



112 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Face cream should not be put near the hair line. If allowed to 
remain there it fills and clogs the glands with fatty matter, preventing 
the flow of natural oil from the sebaceous glands. 

The hair along the edge is finer in quality and a little more 
delicate in coloring; hence, the need of exercising this greater care 
in its daily treatment. 

Hot curling irons should not be used in the hair line and in using 
kids or curlers at night, be sure there is not too great a strain upon 
these delicate hairs at the edge. They are often broken or the roots 
injured in turning in sleep, if the hair be rolled too tightly. If kids 
and similar curlers are to be used, it is better, whenever possible, to 
put the hair up for a half hour, or an hour, upon arising, or during 
the day. 

It would seem almost needless to state that 

, s , the hair should be softly coiled, waved, pompa- 

doured, or braided as desired, but loosely dressed 

to allow a good circulation of air about its roots and that hair pins 

should be so arranged as not to irritate the scalp. 

When selecting your hair pins or combs, see that the edges are 
smooth, as rough edges are often the cause of many short, broken 
hairs. Run your combs and hairpins through your fingers occasion- 
ally to detect any imperfections. 

Blest, indeed, is she who possesses naturally curly 
Curly Hair hair. Straight hair is cylindrical, curly hair is oval, 
the structure of the shaft being uneven, due to an 
uneven distribution of the cells. 

The effect of the curling iron is to contract the cells, more on 
one side of the hair,— the side to which the greatest heat is applied, 



THE HAIR 113 

—but just as soon as moisture is applied, this contraction is relaxed 
and the hair straightened. If these cells be too strongly contracted, 
by too great heat, the hair shaft breaks. This constitutes a serious 
objection to the constant curling of the hair by too hot irons, but if 
a warm iron be used, not sufficiently warm to contract the hair cells 
too greatly, no especial injury is done. The tendency of this hurried 
age, however, is to use the irons too hot. 

In curling, the temperature should be such as can be borne by 
the bare finger on the iron. This means that the iron must be held 
upon the hair for a longer time; but the average person will not 
spend the time necessary to thus dry the hair slowly, and disaster 
results. 

"Kids," paper, rags, or any articles, which have 
"Kids," etc. no sharp edge, around which the hair may be curled, 
are in no way injurious, if they can be adjusted in such 
a way as not to pull the hairs, especially about the hair line. 

In the selection of any curling appliances upon the market, be 
sure that the edges are smooth so as not to break the hair. 

A simple method of curling the hair is to take a small strand 
and twist it as you would a thread about to be put in the eye of a 
needle, then wind it around so as to make a little wheel of the hair 
and pin it to the hair or fasten in a rag or paper. If the hair be 
slightly moistened and left for an hour it will curl nicely, and, if 
care be taken to twist it the same way each morning, the cells of 
the hair will gradually accustom themselves to this position. After 
it has become accustomed to one treatment, unless the weather be 
rainy or damp, the curl will stay in for a number of days. 



114 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Perhaps, the next least injurious method of curling is to wind 
it around kids, rags or soft paper. 

In selecting any manner of curling the hair be sure, as stated 
above, that any article selected has smooth rounded edges and that 
too great heat be avoided. 

In the case of the marcel wave so great heat is required that 
ultimate breaking of the hair is. certain. I have never known anyone 
who followed this style for any length of time whose hair was not 
uneven, both in color and length. 

You can get an effect similar to the marcel by the use of combs. 
This plan should be adopted during the day as the combs would be 
uncomfortable and would be displaced upon the pillow. Two ordinary 
side combs will answer the purpose. 

Brush the hair with a brush slightly damp, but not wet, and 
fasten loosely on the top of .the head; then beginning at the bottom 
of the head and base of the neck, put the first comb in with teeth 
pointing upward, use a circular comb for this purpose ; put the next 
row of combs in with the teeth pointing downward and let them lock 
with those on the row below. Let the hair puff out enough between 
the rows, of combs to form the wave desired. Follow this in even 
rows around the entire circle of the head, seeing that the combs are 
the same distance apart so that each wave line will be even, but let 
the row above be placed slightly to the right or left of the one below, 
so as to give the diagonal curl which characterizes the marcel wave. 
Leave the combs in place until the hair is thoroughly dry, then 
remove and the hair will be in natural waves similar to a marcel. 

The following solution will make the hair retain its curl : 



THE HAIR 115 

Dampen the hair with the white of an egg, with which has been 
mixed an equal amount of rose water and a few drops of some dainty 
perfume. While still wet, wrap around curlers and leave until thor- 
oughly dry. The wavy effect will remain through rain, dampness 
or fog. 

Or, the hair may be made to stay in curl longer and stand up 
from the head better by applying the following: 
X A oz. of gum tragacanth 

1 pint of orange flower water, 
y 2 dram of almond oil. 

Crush the tragacanth and put into the orange flower water, 
allowing it to stand on the back of the stove, or in some warm place, 
until it dissolves. Stir occasionally until the gum grows soft. Then 
strain, first through a coarse strainer and then a fine, being sure the 
gum all goes through. Then add the oil and a few drops of perfume. 

Our grandmothers used a bandoline made from boiled quince 
seeds which was as effective as anything. The quince seeds were 
boiled until they broke and jellied, and then strained. 

The use of any bandoline has a tendency to make the hair stiffer, 
—this, of course, is the purpose, so that it may stand up. Its use 
is much preferable to matting the hair and breaking it. In fact, as 
previously stated, the present effort to make the hair stand up by 
bushing or roughing it is ruining the hair, making it dry, uneven, 
lusterless and coarse looking. 

Brilliantine used by hair dressers after the hair has been curled, 
—more particularly after the marcel wave,— merely replaces the oil 
which has been dried out of the hair shaft by the iron. It gives the 
hair a soft lustre. As a rule it is made of equal parts of odorless 



116 BEAUTY A DUTY 

castor oil and rectified spirits, perfumed, or of castor oil and Eau 
de Cologne. If put on the hair before it is curled, instead of after, 
it will retain the curl longer and keep the gloss. 

One drop of brilliantine rubbed upon the brush bristles by the 
palm of the hand, and then brushed lightly once or twice over the 
hair, is sufficient to give it a beautiful gloss. If, however, much of 
the oil be put on it will take out the curl. 

One reason for using odorless castor oil is because it is the only 
non-volatile oil which is soluble in alcohol and, as elsewhere 
explained, Eau de Cologne is pure, perfumed alcohol. 

Brilliantine should be well shaken before using. 

After all, it is largely a matter of knowing how. 

We need not be ' ' plain Janes " and we should not be. We should 
be cheerful company for ourselves as well as for others, and what 
woman of us would not rather see a sweet and winning face smile 
back from her own mirror than to look, day after day, at a severe, 
careworn, perhaps forlorn countenance. Or, granted that "plain 
Jane" is sunny and smiles her sweetest, just let her try smiling at 
Jane with her hair becomingly dressed and see how much more 
cheerful she will feel— how much more like "getting things done" 
and bringing sunshine to others. 

It does us good to be at our best and it does our friends still 
more good. Let us be as beautiful as we can, else we are not at our 
best; but remember we cannot possess the full measure of either 
charm or beauty until we have given careful thought and study to 
the contour of our own heads. 



THE HAIR 117 

Observing the manner of another "woman's 

How to Analyze , . , , , , -^ 

Y F hairdressmg may or may not help you. You 

must, first of all, make a careful, conscientious, 

unprejudiced analysis of the shape of your head as related to your 

face and features. 

To do this, let down your hair and brush it smoothly back. Then, 
with the aid of an extra mirror, study the shape of your head, from 
every point of view. Hold the hair in, about the neck, or tie a ribbon 
over the hair, around your back, to hold the hair close. Then study 
the side view, the top, the back, the front. Note carefully the fol- 
lowing points: 

Is your head wide or narrow above the ears? 

Is it full or inclined to be flat and low just back of the hair line, 
that is, on top, near the front? 

Is it full or flat on top at a point which would be in line with 
the ears? 

Is it high or flat at the crown, that is, the point where the hair 
radiates from the top of the head? 

Is your head very full at the back ; is it straight up from the neck, 
or nearly so ; or is it medium full ? 

Is it wide between the ears, as you look at the back, or narrow? 

Is your chin prominent, receding, or medium? 

Is your nose long or short ; straight or crooked ; does it turn up 
or down? 

Is your face wide or narrow; oval in outline, round or more 
square in shape? 

Is your face plump or thin? 



118 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Is your forehead high or low; does your hair grow low upon 
your forehead, or does the hair-line recede, leaving your temples 
bare? 

Is the hair line straight or ragged? 

When you part your hair, is the parting a close, delicate line, 
or is it wide and white, making the hair look thin and the face long? 

As you look at the side of your face, with your hair combed 
back, does your forehead extend forward from the hair line, and then 
down, or does it slope directly down from the hair? Does it recede? 

Is your head high, from the top of the ear to the top of the head, 
or low, or medium? 

As you stand in a strong light, is your skin smooth and fine or 
is it coarse, needing to be thrown into shadow? Remember that 
shadows soften. Nearly everyone is at a disadvantage with a strong 
light upon the face. 

All these and many more points, which will suggest themselves 
as you carefully study your head in your mirror, have something 
to do with the way you should dress your hair. If your head is very 
full on top, for instance, it is not likely that your appearance will 
be improved by making that fullness decidedly greater, as you would 
do if you piled your hair high. 

One of the most common of unfortunate errors is made by the 
woman who is high at the crown of the head, (strong self-esteem) 
and also has a prominent chin, (usually denoting strength). These 
two points are quite apt to go together, and the woman who has 
them is quite liable to think "Handsome is that handsome does" 
and consequently pays very little attention to the way she does her 
hair. As she can most quickly comb it straight back and twist it 



THE HAIR 119 

into a snug knot right on the crown, she is likely to do just that, — 
the very worst thing she could do. (See Figure 15 as contrasted 
with Figure 19.) 

Such women are usually intellectual and have strong executive 
ability, and this harsh method of doing the hair accentuates the 
oblique line from the chin to the crown of the head, makes very strong 
features seem stronger,— makes every mortal man feel like running 
to the farthest corner, when he sees this austere individual coming 
in his direction. 

By which I mean only to emphasize that the greatest, the first 
strength of woman, as of man, lies in the power to attract,— not in 
the power to over-awe and repel. 

If we would influence others, or meet with success in society, 
in the home, in the school-room or in business, we must first attract 
those about us. Of all the natural features, which can aid us in this 
direction, truly the hair speaks strongly, because of its direct influ- 
ence upon the facial expression. 

The stern, forceful woman needs to "tone down" the strong 
lines and soften the features, and no better aid for accomplishing 
this result could be employed than the hair. 

If your hair is the "bane of your existence" you have not yet 
found the right way of caring for it, or "your" way of arranging 
it. When you do, its care and arrangement will afford you pleasure. 

When you come home from the hairdresser, or when you have 
been experimenting yourself, and someone, perhaps your husband, 
says: 

"Oh, how nice your hair looks; you should never do it any other 
way!" then it is that you understand the satisfaction, which is found 
in making yourself attractive to others. 



120 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Each woman can best apply these tests for 
Applying the Tests herself. It is impossible to describe every varia- 
tion which will present itself, for no two faces 
are alike. I can only give the types and in the following pages I 
have given suggestions as to the styles a woman should adopt or 
avoid, according to her type. These establish general principles 
which any woman can apply and further carry out for herself. You 
may, or may not, be classified under any one type. You will probably 
find that you have characteristics, some of which are found in one 
type and some in another. Then, study each of these characteristics, 
under whichever type you find it, note carefully the influence of hair- 
dressing as related to each one, and from the observations you make, 
you can construct the analysis of your own type and will evolve the 
style of hairdressing best for you. 

When the hair is fully dressed, your test must be that you have 
brought out a good contour of the entire head; have produced an 
effect that is pleasing and well balanced from every point of view. 

A thin face will look more round and plump if 

Th" F am W ' ^ e k a ^ r ^ e fluked °ut well at the sides. (See Figs. 
7, 9 and 16 as contrasted with 10.) It may be parted 
and combed to the sides, then waved and fluffed, giving a broad 
effect. The back hair may be dressed broad and low (see Figure 19), 
or high and the fullness carried across the front, a little back of the 
hair line. Be careful not to draw the hair up tightly from the back 
of the neck, when dressing it high. 

For some oval types, if the hair be long and thick enough, it 
may be waved and parted in the center, or pompadoured. Then 



THE HAIR 121 

draw the hair to the top of the head, plait it rather loosely in two 
braids, cross them and arrange around the head in crown fashion. 
This arrangement will be somewhat improved if the hair be waved 
all around, at the front, sides and neck. 

Almost any style that lends breadth to the head can be worn 
by the woman with long or oval face, but in determining the parts 
of the head at which additional breadth is to be given, one should 
closely regard the contour of the chin. 

If the features are long, that is, long nose, long or prominent 
chin, face as a whole long and thin, etc., do not wear the hair piled 
high on top of the head, or on the crown, as this accentuates the 
length. Court fluffy, soft styles that add breadth. Wide, low combs 
may be used to good advantage by the thin featured woman, unless 
she be short, when she may wear them both wide and high. Remem- 
ber that horizontal effects lend width and detract from height. For 
a long face and a long chin, never draw the hair straight up from 
the nape of the neck. There should be some softness, or fullness 
and breadth in the back, for such types. Note the contrast between 
Figures 18 and 24 and observe the effect of carrying softness down 
to the neck. 

If a woman be very tall and at the same time thin or long 
featured, she may affect almost any style that gives breadth at the 
sides, front and back. 

If the head be long, the hair may be dressed high, if more 
becoming in style, but it must be spread and kept flat and thus avoid 
adding to actual height or long effect. 

The same suggestions as to breadth and height, in hairdressing, 
also apply to the selection of hats. Note the emphasis of the pointed 



122 BEAUTY A DUTY 

chin in Figure 10, by the long diagonal line from chin to top of hat. 
The hat for this style of face should be broader and lower. 

Parting usually adds length to the face, espe- 

Effect of Parting cially if the line be wide and white (see Figure 3). 

A long featured woman should never comb the 

hair straight down, to either side, from a parting, as this decidedly 

makes the face look longer and thinner (see Figures 4 and 15). 

If the hair is worn parted and the features are long, there should 
be fluffiness at the sides to add breadth, and the hair can be trained 
to take an outward instead of a downward direction, or can be turned 
upward a short distance from the parting. Such arrangements add 
breadth. 

Parting the hair on the side does not usually add length, espe- 
cially if the hair be fluffed across the forehead ; and the parting may 
not add length, if it be close, not showing the white of the scalp. 

The long, as well as the round featured woman needs to care- 
fully consider the effect of parting, if she likes this style, combining 
with it such direction of lines, fluffiness, etc., as will counteract rather 
than add length to her face, if she be long featured; or using it to 
give an effect of length, if she has a round face. 

In all cases, however, avoid brushing the hair flat from a parting 
down toward the ears, as this is unnecessarily old fashioned and 
very trying to nearly all faces. (See Figures 4 and 15.) This style 
also emphasizes downward wrinkles which may appear in the face 
as it begins to lose firmness. It should be especially avoided after 
forty. 



THE HAIR 123 

A women with a round face, a fat 

Round Face, Wide Jaw, face, a wide jaw, who is wide between the 

Wide Between the Eyes; . „ _ .. , 

F F E eyes or who has any or all of these tend- 

encies, will probably find that dressing her 
hair on top of her head helps to diminish the effect of breadth, adding 
a becoming height and length. If she be short, she may be able to 
comb her hair straight up in the back, giving the long line from the 
nape of the neck to the crown, though combing the hair thus, unless 
it be left loose and allowed to curve outward slightly, is very trying 
to most women. (See Figure 18.) The upward lines may be given, 
however, and the hair slightly loosened. (Note the softer effect of 
the loose arrangement at the back, in Figure 24.) 

In combing the hair high, care must also be taken not to train 
it too abruptly from the face. If the face is broad, combing the 
hair tightly back, exposing the actual line, tends, in some cases, to 
give too masculine a look ; in others, it may make a woman look bold. 
If the hair is dropped softly over the forehead just a bit, however, 
and then trained back into a pompadour, or slightly fluffed, it will 
soften the features. (See Figures 1 and 2.) 

A woman with breadth of features may arrange her pompadour 
higher in the center-front, but while she may keep a symmetrical 
curved outline for it, or may. "break" the curve carelessly, as most 
becomes her, perhaps letting a few stray curls escape upon the fore- 
head, yet she should not fluff it wide at the sides. A full face is 
exaggerated by too many curls or too much fluffiness. A higher, 
plainer coiffure is better adapted to this style of face. 

Let the hair be kept soft, not severe, over the sides, but not 
fluffed out. The effect will be most deluding, giving the appearance 



124 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of fluffiness without increasing the breadth, while puffing the hair 
high on top detracts from the breadth and lends needed length to 
the face. A pompadour also tends, to make a large face look smaller, 
while a woman with a small face should guard against a large pom- 
padour. 

If the head be broad in the back, avoid 
Breadth in the Back wide arrangements for the back hair, and do 

not use wide combs. 

The psyche knot (see Fig. 8), or any style which conceals or 
counteracts the width may be used, while combs and pins should 
be long, high designs, if the woman be short. 

If a woman is tall and also wide-featured, she may wear a 
slightly pointed knot on the top of the head, but she should avoid 
actually adding height by piling the hair high or by using high orna- 
ments. A psyche knot, if not too pointed, but kept soft, should suit 
this type of head well. Add to this a puff at each side of the knot 
and a comb with low points and the effect is excellent. 

A woman with a long nose, or a prom- 
Long Nose, Prominent .'.,,. , 7 , . , , . , ' t . 
Chin and High Crown ment chm ' should aV0ld basing her hair 

high on the crown; that is, at the point 
from which the hair radiates at the top of the back of the head, as this 
makes the conspicuous feature appear still more conspicuous by 
seeming to lengthen the oblique side line noticeable in such faces. A 
little experimenting and scrutiny of different effects, with the aid 
of the extra mirror, will demonstrate the truth of this. If inclined 
to the features above mentioned, or if you have a very prominent 
chin, arrange the hair a little high in front, if you choose, carrying 
the fluffiness well forward, and arrange it with fullness low down in 



THE HAIR 125 

the back (see Figure 24), or you may carry a coil or soft braid around 
the crown, but do not add one iota to the fullness of the crown itself. 
Or, the hair may be dressed on the crown, but the prominence coun- 
teracted and concealed by arranging it in a long or a wide coil or 
' ' eight, ' ' avoiding height on the crown and by leaving the hair fluffy 
at the nape of the neck. 

These same instructions should also be followed if the crown 
itself be rather high, that is, if you have what is called a "large 
bump of self-esteem." 

The prominent chin is also usually counteracted with pleasing 
effect by arrangements that carry the hair low at the nape of the 
neck, either in a full knot or a softly braided or coiled "loop." (See 
Figure 22.) 

If the crown be flat, seeming to be "chopped off," leaving the 
head high in front, you can arrange a soft, fluffy knot right on the 
crown, thus entirely concealing this defect of physiognomy. A head 
unusually high in front, just over the forehead, or unusually full at 
the back, may have the effect of making the crown look deficient, 
even when the latter is normal. In such cases, a modification of 
arrangements for flat crown will lend softness and a pretty shape. 
Never fluff the hair, or coil it prominently over "bumps" or dimen- 
sions that are emphatic. Let "shallow softness" and fiat coils con- 
ceal prominence, and fluffs and puffs fill out and counteract hollows 
and thinness. 

A receding chin is usually accompanied 
For a Receding Chin by a crown none too full. This is the little 

woman who can wear a high knot right on 
the crown of her head. For such a type, too, a fluffy figure eight, 



126 BEAUTY A DUTY 

pulled out well at the top (right at the crown) is often charming. 
With this arrangement, the hair may be parted in front and fluffed at 
the sides, while a high comb of shell or etched old silver at the top 
of the figure eight completes the charm of this quaint, pretty style. 
If the chin recedes and the crown of the head be full, try fluffing 
the hair well at the sides and piling it well forward on the top of the 
head. Note the emphasis of receding chin and forehead and high 
crown in the severe, ungainly arrangement in Figure 6. 

If the forehead be low an effect of height can 
f th F h d ^ e gi yen ^ modifying the contour of the pom- 
padour, so the hair line of the forehead shows at 
its highest point only. For such a condition, drop the hair slightly, 
except at this high point, but do not drop it too low at any point. 

Some persons with low forehead can wear the hair parted, waved 
and carried back, softly to the nape of the neck, where it may be 
arranged in a loose knot. (See Figures 1 and 2.) 

When the forehead is straight and the line from upper lip to 
chin is straight and nose prominent, the hair should be kept rather 
close to the back of the head, the front hair carried back and raised 
from the forehead, as in Figure 8, and the top hair done high in a 
round coil, or with puffs on top of the head. Figure 17 shows this 
tendency. 

If the forehead be straight, nose moderate and chin prominent, 
the hair may be worn low or in the center of the back of the head, 
with front hair arranged moderately high, drooping somewhat on 
the forehead, as in Figures 19 and 23. 



THE HAIR 127 

If the forehead recedes, that is, slants back- 
Receding Forehead ward, from the top of the nose to the hair line, 
care must be used not to exaggerate this, tend- 
ency. A straight, receding forehead (see Figure 8) is classic and 
often a point of beauty if well handled. For such a forehead, avoid 
brushing the hair directly back from the face, and avoid dressing it 
high on the crown. The hair raised and drooped over the forehead 
is best, if the latter recedes, but do not wear a pompadour that slopes 
back and upward, as this would only increase the tendency you are 
endeavoring to counteract. 

If the chin as well as the forehead recedes and the nose is prom- 
inent, the above points must be regarded, and great care should be 
used in the selection of hats. For this condition see Figure 9 in 
which the hair could hardly have been dressed in a more unbecoming 
manner. In such cases., avoid hats that slope or roll back from the 
face. 

If the forehead is high and bulging, avoid any arrangement 
which carries the hair straight back at the top and sides, as in 
Figure 5. Many intellectual women are made to look bold and mas- 
culine by overlooking the importance of softening the forehead, as 
they could easily do by allowing the hair to fall over it. (See Figures 
5 and 7.) 

A young girl with a smooth, high forehead, if the latter does 

not bulge, can well wear the hair carried back from the face, as in 

Figure 14. 

It requires both skill and patience to arrange 

Scant Thin Hair becomingly an d satisfactorily, hair which is short, 

thin and scant. If one has little hair, let it be 

kept as fluffy as possible. 
9 



128 BEAUTY A DUTY 

If it is necessary to wear an extra coil or switch, be sure that 
it matches the hair exactly and have the strands divided or made on 
three separate strands (with foundation stems not too long), so they 
can be utilized to better advantage, either in puffs, a braid or a coil. 

If the hair grows very scant or high on the temples, 
T , it sometimes gives the face and forehead a bare appear- 
ance (see Figure 6), which can be remedied by keeping 
a few short hairs waved slightly to droop over the temple, as in 
Figures 5 and 7. To promote growth of hair on the temples, see 
pages 109 to 112, 

" Styles in hair dressing for elderly 
Hair Dressing for the 
Mature Woman women do not change as often nor as radically 

as the modes for young matrons and girls. 

Indeed, when a new coiffure for middle-aged women does appear, 

frequently months elapse before it is generally adopted. 

"The coronet fashion of dressing (Fig. 33) is one of the models 
that, when becoming, may be worn irrespective of age. It does not., 
however, suit every type of fat, full face which will look more moon- 
like when framed with the coronet braid, but a woman possessing 
a long or an oval face may have her hair so dressed and find it suits 
her perfectly. 

"The short woman, especially if she is also stout, should not 
wear the coronet unless it is modified, for the reason that its flat 
arrangement will detract from the body's height. An individual of 
this type should take all the hair to the crown of the head, drawing 
the front portion softly back from the face and arranging the back 
part in a loose mass from the nape of the neck to the top of head. 



THE HAIR 129 

"At the crown the locks should be tied and the hair braided. A 
circle should then be formed with the braid directly on top of the 
head. For the necessary effect the braid should stand on edge, not 
lie flat, and the end should be pulled gently around the face until it 
gives the desired appearance to the features. Any loose hairs at 
the back should be confined with a small barette that matches the 
comb. This makes a dignified arrangement. 

' ' For evening wear, shell hairpins mounted with handsome heads 
may be substituted for the comb. These pins are placed where they 
are considered the most effective, that is at the front, back or any 
point on the sides. 

"The majority of middle-aged women prefer the hair dressed 
on the crown of the head, the front half taken back in a soft pom- 
padour. 

"In this mode of dressing where the hair is. very scant, after 
being arranged on the crown of the head it may be pinned flatly down 
and three little false roll puffs arranged on a heart-shaped ground 
work, attached to conceal the real hair. 

The pompadour will never go out of fashion while there are 
middle aged women to wear it, for it is a dressing that almost every 
type can wear successfully."— (The American Hairdresser.) 

The elderly woman should never draw the hair tightly back from 
the face. 

Happily, the woeful days have passed in which women as they 
pass middle life must wear their hair combed straight down from 
the face and must dress in chilling black. 

Why should not mature women be attractive? There is nothing 
sweeter in all life than a sweetly radiant face framed by the beau- 



130 BEAUTY A DUTY 

tiful, soft snow of winter. Make the most of the snow— it is as 
beautiful as the flowers of spring. Fluff the whiteness about the 
face. 

We can but admire Whistler's art in Fig. 4, but we would like 
to have had some one dress the hair becomingly and thus lend a soft- 
ness to the dear old face. A woman with long features, and espe- 
cially where the long lines appear in the face, should counteract this 
length by short, horizontal, or outward and slightly upward lines 
of hair about the face and head. 

Surely, there is no less of strength nor dignity to the dear sweet 
face of Figure 9, with the soft white fluffs of snow about it. 

We love to see the dear old faces look soft and well cared for 
and, as previously stated, it is just as easy to dress the hair 
becomingly as unbecomingly. 



Chapter III 
THE EYES 



It is surprising how much of one's life and character can be 
read through the expression about the eyes and the nose. 

The eye has been well named the "window of the soul," because 
of its delicate susceptibility to emotional impulse. This is the natural 
result of the controlling muscles being interwoven with a perfect 
network of nerves, which respond to the most subtle change of 
thought. Because of the delicacy of nerve and muscle here, the eye 
responds more quickly to thoughts than any other part of the face; 
particularly does it express ill health, fatigue or suffering. As the 
eye quickly responds to thought, so do the muscles and nerves here 
yield to treatment. 

When it is realized that the ball of the eye, itself, has no expres- 
sion, but that the difference is almost entirely due to the expression 
of muscle, resulting from habitual thoughts, it is interesting to study 
the particular curve of muscle, which brings out one idea as con- 
trasted with the curve expressing another predominant thought; the 
muscles have been played upon by the thoughts in the same direction 
so many times that they have made lines,— sometimes so deepened 
as to become wrinkles. 

131 



132 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Unfortunately photographers take away many of these lines, but 
a study of the characters of the individuals, upon the accompanying 
illustrations, will show how much life is read through the poise of 
muscles in the middle section of the face. 

If the skin about the eyes becomes inelastic, wrinkles, form in 
the deepest lines of expression, and the face becomes an index of the 
past life, rather than a free expression of present thought. As our 
ideas, broaden and expand, it is well to keep up daily massage and 
to develop a well-nourished skin, that the old lines may be removed 
and the skin become elastic. 

How intense has been the life, how vindictive the thoughts of 
the character illustrated by Figure 1 ! There is hatred here. There 
is deep-seated revenge. Life, with her, has been a continual combat. 
She needs to relax her struggles, so that the sunshine of love and 
sweetness may enter her soul; then she will look for goodness, and 
truth in those about her,— and she will find, in others, just what she 
is looking for in herself. 

On the other hand, how restful and whole-hearted the thoughts 
of Figure 2 ! She may be a little too lenient for her own good, and 
she may express the predominence of physical appetite over the 
mental and spiritual being, but her atmosphere is warm, jovial and 
restful. 

How judicious and well poised the life of Figure 3 ! Trust the 
affairs of family or state to her discretion. Mind and heart are well 
balanced. Her children will be reared to be upright, useful citizens. 

Figure 4, expresses hauteur and arrogance, just by the direction 
of the muscles of eyelid and brow. 



THE EYES 133 

Figure 5 expresses stormy, fiery hatred, — not tenaciously held, 
until it has sunk into the woof of life, as in Figure 1,— but violent and 
short lived. 

It is hard to realize that the eyes of Figure 6, expressing the 
joy of mere living, are the same as Figures 4 and 5, but it is true, and 
this is an excellent illustration of the flexibility of the eye muscles 
and their ready response to change of thought. The complete 
response to nerve -impulse, instigated by thought, is due to the daily 
care given to the flexibility of the muscles of the face. 

Figure 7 is a disagreeable old grouch. Wicked, because she 
arouses disagreeable, despondent discouragement in the minds of 
all who meet her. She is selfish, thinking of others, only as they 
may be of advantage to her. 

Yet Figure 8 with the open, frank, motherly, ready-to-help eye, 
is the same as Figure 7, dominated by better thoughts. 

Figure 9, expressing an insipid character, mental weakness and 
lack of will-power, is the same as Figures 7 and 8 ; as in Figures 4, 
5 and 6, they illustrate the ready response of the eye muscles to 
the thought. 

Under what a nerve strain has Figure 10 lived ! Her desires have 
exceeded her capacity; in her intense effort to reach her goal, she 
has held her nerves so tense that mind and body have not been 
allowed to expand, or relax, sufficiently to accomplish her fullness 
of purpose, and she is in danger of becoming contracted by nature, 
as her nerves have from habit. 

Nerve weakness, which must result in effecting the vital func- 
tions, is expressed in Figure 11. Exhaustion, shallow breathing and 
incorrect physical poise are indicated here. 



134 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The eye of Figure 12! Trust it not. It indicates sharpness, 
keenness and a self-calculating life of deception, if needs be, to win 
her point. 

Figure 13 is a soulful artist eye, expressing a life receptive to 
higher emotions. 

Ah! how much of the life of the silent hour he who runs may 
read! We are open books and it were easier to deceive ourselves, 
than to deceive others. If the habitual thoughts of our lives be nar- 
row, our facial muscles will show it; if the thoughts be broad, gen- 
erous, uplifting and beautiful, they will radiate through our facial 
expression and not only affect the lives of all who gaze upon our 
features in repose, but as we gaze upon our own faces in the mirror, 
they must inspire us to higher living. The influence of one good life 
is so far reaching! 

Keep the thoughts pure and the ideals high and every life 
touched by yours shall respond and be uplifted. 

Surely there is an education in the open book of the face as well 
as on the printed page. 

We meet a friend or stranger, and the frown darkening the 

countenance makes us recoil, or the sorrow calls forth the note of 

sympathy, or the happiness, joy and brilliance of life sends through 

us a magnetic thrill, lifting us, as a bright ray of sunshine lifts heart 

a 
and mind on a dark day. 

God bless the women who are carrying to others the sunshine 

in their faces ! The very sight of a sunny face upon our city streets, 

lifts more lives to the hill-tops than we shall ever know. Think of 

the uplifting, educational influence which one happy, joyous face can 

lend for three hundred and sixty-five days a year ! One who is inter- 











1 

7 


II 




1*1* I 

12 


8 


P" 



13 




THE EYES 135 

ested in the happiness of those about one will never go into the 
presence of others, carrying gloom to family and friends. 

In taking up the care and treatment of the eyes., I 

f^'jl'ij 3 T"l l"i 

_, shall consider only that form of eye difficulty, which can 

I reatment 

be reached and helped through hygienic care and proper 
exercises for strengthening and stimulating the nerves and muscles 
controlling them and the natural cushion upon which the eye rests. 
To go into details of the anatomy and physiology of the eye, 
and the refractions of light, with the images produced upon the 
retina, would require a large volume. 

The treatment of defective vision caused by change in the form 
of the eye, such as astigmatism, hyperopia, or myopia, and diseases 
of the eye, belong to the oculist. I will, however, take up the causes 
of these difficulties. 

It is needless to state that all glasses should be prescribed by 
an oculist,— the optician, as a rule like the druggist, being qualified 
merely to fill prescriptions, but not to diagnose nor prescribe. 

The mechanism of the eye is so delicate and its functions so 
important to the happiness and development of every individual, 
that too much care cannot be taken to keep the eye strong and thus 
arrest any weakness or impending danger which may threaten it. 

The eyes should be clear and bright. If not abused, and if the 
system be stored with good vitality and the eyes kept free from 
inflammation, or weakness, they will respond wonderfully in color 
and expression. 

When working, reading or writing, the head should be erect. 
Reading while reclining is bad for the eyes. Care should also be 
taken to protect the eyes from a glaring light. Always arrange the 



136 BEAUTY A DUTY 

light so the bright rays shall fall over the left shoulder, a little from 
behind directly upon the work. The eye is truly the most delicate of 
optical instruments and its lens, adjusted and focused by tiny 
muscles, is most susceptible to the varying conditions of light and 
distance. 

If your work has required close application of the eyes during the 
day, always rest them at night, but if the reverse, and the eyes have 
had "long distance" work, it will not injure them to read by a good 
steady light in the evening. 

Give the eye complete rest, while the body rests. Be very par- 
ticular to use opaque shades on the windows of your sleeping room, 
that all light may be shut out at night. The eyelids are only a par- 
tial protection and many wrinkles may be traced to the effort to 
protect the eye in sleep by drawing the eyebrows together in a scowl. 
This expression is given by the slightest change of the muscular 
poise of the eyelids and the muscles about the eye, rather than by 
any change in the eye itself. 

The difficulty with the average person is that he is apt to use 
little of his own reasoning power and common sense in the treatment 
of the eye. 

If the blood supply be defective by reason of poor circulation 
or impoverished blood, or because of nervous exhaustion; if the 
secretions be abnormal; or if there be any functional or organic 
change in the body, the eye may participate in the evil consequences. 
In the same way visual defects may influence the entire system. 

Except in acute germ diseases, all actual diseases of the eye are 
due to impoverished blood or to poor circulation, the proper amount 
of nourishment not being carried through the arteries to maintain 



THE EYES 137 

its strength; or they are the result of impurities and deposits that 
form on account of poor elimination. When the circulation is 
impeded, there is a great lack of nourishment, and hence a general 
lowering of the strength of both muscles and nerves. 

It will readily be seen that treatment for the eye must always 
consist partly of bodily exercise for perfect circulation to bring 
plenty of fresh nourishment and to carry away all waste. 

The eyes are intimately connected with the most important nerve 
centers and their muscles and nerves respond to exercise and hygienic 
treatment quite as readily as those in other parts of the body. 

The nervous system may be compared to 

Nervous System like , . . , .. .., , 

,-,. . -, . an electric battery, with numerous attacn- 

an Electric Battery J ' 

ments. If one of the latter be used too much, 
or requires too strong a current, there is less electric force for some, 
or all of the others. Dead or weakened cells, which add more resist- 
ance to the current, will also call for more force from the battery. 

If persons with abnormal eyes must use their eyes much, an 
excess of expenditure is the result, and the economy must suffer. 
The nervous force of the battery in that case is overdrawn, the reserve 
is forever being used up, and a nervous breakdown is the conse- 
quence. It is remarkable how the use of eyes in abnormal condition 
will often completely deplete the nervous force of an individual. 
(The nerves controlling the eyes are illustrated by Figure 2.) 

The nerve centers of the body may also be likened to the central 
exchange of a telephone system; they are all connected and if one 
nerve is affected the whole nerve center may be affected; if this 
condition continue for any length of time, the other nerve centers 



138 BEAUTY A DUTY 

will be thrown out of harmony through sympathy and in an effort 
to assist the weakened member. 

Unless the eyes are kept well and strong by proper attention 
to the general health and to the development of needed strength in 
all nerve centers, nervous headaches will result. 

It must be borne in mind that the eye has 
Influence of the Eyes a nerve supply other than the optic nerve. 
D ? . ~ The body is made up of dependent systems,— 

not separate, free organs, but kindred ones. 
These organs are composed of dependent tissues and each secreting 
cell is supported by the connective tissue-cells around it ; both depend 
upon the different systems,— circulatory and nervous,— for their 
sustenance. 

As shown above, if the circulatory system be abnormal, every 
tissue and organ suffers., and if one or more organs are so diseased 
or abnormal as to interfere with the proper functions of this system, 
all other organs are thereby affected through related nerves. 

As this holds true in all the different systems, so the influence 
of the eyes upon the digestive system, and vice versa, is partly, but 
not wholly, exerted through the nervous system. 

The functions of the digestive organs are under the constant 
control of the nervous system; the amount of blood to each organ 
is regulated by the nerves, the secretions excited and controlled, and 
the movement of the organs regulated. This is especially true of 
the stomach and intestinal movements. 

If too much nerve force has been expended upon other activities, 
the nervous control of the digestive system is not normal. The other 
systems,— the blood, lymph, etc., affecting this particular system, are 



THE EYES 139 

also not properly regulated. Therefore, eye-strain will often give rise 
to nausea, loss of appetite, constipation and intestinal and stomach 
troubles. It often affects the real digestive processes in the manner 
stated, and, in return, influences nutrition and assimilation. The 
nerve tissue itself is thereby weakened, because it is undernourished. 

It is not, therefore, surprising that a very large proportion of 
people with weak eyes are troubled with nausea, vomiting and head- 
aches. Many times after the eyes are strengthened by exercise or 
properly fitted to glasses, the nausea and vomiting will entirely cease. 

Constipation is often the underlying cause of eye trouble and 
on the other hand, it is. often relieved, when the eye-strain has been 
remedied. 

A great many other functional digestive disturbances such as 
flatulency, pyrosis, colic, etc., are caused by eye-strain. It is easy 
to understand that an exhausted nervous vitality may cause other- 
wise healthy organs to act imperfectly. Even the memory is often 
affected by the eyes. 

It must not be forgotten that nausea and other symptoms usually 
attributed to the digestive tract, are most often cerebral in their 
origin. There may be nothing wrong with the organ to which the 
sensation is referred ; i. e. : the stomach may be perfect, but a look 
from a dizzy height, or out of the window of a rapidly moving car, 
is often sufficient to give rise to this nausea. No doubt sea-sickness 
is greatly due to the disturbance in our sense of equilibrium, and is 
always aggravated by looking at objects on the shore or on the 
water, when one is on board a ship. 

The digestive system, on the other hand, is. often the cause of 
symptoms attributed to the eyes. The latter may be abnormal, but 



140 BEAUTY A DUTY 

still capable of performing their functions without strain or discom- 
fort, if the stomach and other digestive organs are normal. 

Poor digestion influences, all other systems and processes of the 
body, such as the blood, lymph and muscular or nervous systems, 
therefore it must be corrected if such delicate organs as the eyes are 
to give true service. 

There is no doubt but that, if the glands., blood vessels, nerves 
or tissues of the eye have not been destroyed, Nature, if properly 
assisted by exercises, diet and hygienic care of the body, as well as 
of the eyes, can bring them back to a normal condition,— unless their 
weakness be due to old age. 

The arteries and veins surrounding the eye are 
£. , . completely net-worked through the tissue of the eye 

and bring the real life, vitality and health to the eye. 
The arteries furnish nourishment and energy to the eye nerves and 
other tissues, while the veins and lymph channels carry off the waste, 
impurities and deposits from all parts of the eye. It can, therefore, 
be seen, that if anything clogs the arteries or veins, so that the 
poisons are not thrown off, the eye may become diseased. Until the 
circulation is. equalized through the arteries and veins, Nature can- 
not assist in restoring the eye to its normal state and functions. 
Abuse of ^ ma y no ^ nave occurred to you that sight is the 

Eyes only special sense constantly used during the waking 

hours. It is impossible to strain in tasting, smelling, or touching, 
and the strain in hearing merely consists in closely concentrating 
the attention to sounds. 

There are two ways of abusing the eyes and destroying the 
sight ; the first is external, and is caused by abuse and lack of protec- 



THE EYES 141 

tion, so that the secretions are weakened. The second, or internal 
causes, are due to overstrain and to improper eating, sleeping, living 
and poor circulation. In the average case, if the manner of living 
be corrected, a good circulation of pure, rich blood established, the 
general health restored, the eyes rested and bathed frequently in hot 
or cold water, as the condition demands, and all strain removed, 
Nature will do the rest and restore them to normal health and 
strength. 

The eyes are moved in their sockets, turned in dif- 
the Ev ferent directions and the eyeball contracted or relaxed 

to see objects at near or short range by muscles and 
nerves attached to the eyeball, as illustrated by Figs. 1 and 2. The 
normal vision and accommodation of the eye depends, therefore, 
upon the strength of these muscles and nerves. 

If you wish to look to the left, the mind directs the nerves of 
the left side of the eye to contract; this contraction shortens the 
muscles of the left side and draws the eyeball to the left. 

The rectus muscles, illustrated by Fig. 1, turn the eyeball in dif- 
ferent directions. 

If two objects be selected, one near the eye, the other at some 
distance, it will be noted that when the eye is focused so that the 
object near at hand is distinct, the one at a distance will be indis- 
tinct. Again, direct the thought to the object at a distance and the 
one near at hand will be indistinct. Clearly the eye has the power 
of changing the focus as directed by the mind through the muscles. 
This is done by changing the convexity or curvature of the front 
surface of the crystalline lens, partly through its own elasticity and 
partly through the action of the muscles controlling the eyes. The 



142 BEAUTY A DUTY 

ciliary muscle, which accommodates the eye to near and far vision, 
is within the eyeball, hence it is not shown in the illustrations. The 
nerves controlling it are shown on Fig. 2. 

When the eye is to be accommodated for near vision, the 
ciliary or "reading muscle" contracts and shortens thus drawing 
the outer sides of the lens together, making it more convex. 
The more convex it becomes, the closer an object needs to be, to 
focus the image upon the retina. This may be illustrated by com- 
pressing a rubber ball. If the ball be compressed laterally it becomes 
more convex at the apex. If then the ciliary muscle becomes weak- 
ened, by reason of a general run-down condition of the system, by 
over-strain, as a result of too constant use, or by the general debility 
of old age, it will fail to contract and cause the curvature; thus the 
eye is focused only for more distant objects, and one cannot see to 
read. 

The proper tone of the muscles and nerves must be retained or 
the eye will not be properly directed, and accommodation and con- 
vergence will be interfered with. It is not unusual to find the 
muscle of accommodation larger and more developed in one eye 
than in the other, but Nature has placed within the eyeball all of 
the elements and tissues for correcting any slight malformation or 
defect. The muscles of the eye are like muscles in other parts of the 
body; if used in a normal way, they develop and grow stronger. 

In general debility the lens also loses its. elasticity. It is then 
that glasses containing convex lens, focusing the rays of light upon 
a near object, are used ; but clearly, glasses do not remedy the cause 
of the weakness. The general health must be built up. If the ciliary 
muscle can be strengthened by the use of water, hot or cold,— or 




Figure I — Muscles of the right orbit. (Gray) 



. 




Figure 2 — Nerves of the orbit and opthilmic ganglion. (Gray) 



THE EYES 143 

both, as the occasion demands—, or by resting the eye from the effort 
to read, or to see things at a near range, or by building up the gen- 
eral vitality, the vision will adjust itself and glasses which may have 
been prescribed to bring the focus nearer, so that the ciliary muscles 
may not be overstrained, but given a chance to rest, may be discarded. 
The question often arises why so many more people 
Glasses wear glasses than formerly. People read and study more, 
thus straining the eye more, and doubtless the early age 
at which children enter school, the crowding of the school curriculum, 
with the attendant nerve strain and its effect upon the general health 
and development has much to do with this. 

The indiscriminate manner in which an optician advises the use 
of glasses is little short of criminal. In the large number of cases 
glasses are merely crutches. They do not cure the difficulty and 
every attention should be given to correction of the cause of the 
trouble; when the cause is removed the glasses should be dis- 
carded just as you would discard crutches when a broken limb is 
healed. True, if one's eye muscles have become accustomed to the 
glasses, you will experience some difficulty when you first leave them 
off, until the muscles adjust themselves to the change, just as you 
experience difficulty in using the muscles of the legs after their long 
rest when you first discard the crutches.. Muscles strengthen by use, 
if not excessive, and they weaken by disuse. 

If glasses are necessary, however, there should be no hesitancy 
in adopting their use. It may not be necessary to wear them always. 
If glasses be constantly worn, the muscles, being relieved of their 
necessity for contraction, will lose their elasticity and power of 
adjusting the lens. 



144 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Glasses to correct general weakness of the eye muscles should 
be worn long enough to allow the eye to rest and then only when the 
eye is to be subjected to an unusual strain. If glasses are worn for 
a time, because of general debility, or because of an undernourish- 
ment of the tissues, they can be removed when the cause is relieved. 

If there be a structural difficulty in the eyeball, however, the 
glasses need to be worn continuously. 

Astigmatism, which is perhaps one of the most 
Astigmatism common divergences from the natural development of 
the form of the eye, occurs when the curvature of the 
crystalline lens of the eye is not uniform; in consequence, the rays 
of light, which pass through each portion of the lens, will not be 
brought to a focus at the same point and the eye is termed astig- 
matic. In such cases the cornea is much more curved vertically 
than horizontally. It can be corrected by glasses fitted with cylin- 
drical lenses. The difficulty is common, but often outgrown, unless 
glasses be constantly worn, which makes it chronic. 

According to Helmholtz a small degree of astigmatism is present 
in almost all normal eyes. I believe it is a safe estimate to state 
that 99% of eye difficulties are diagnosed by physicians as astig- 
matism. 

The cause of myopia (short-sightedness) 
6 M~ lg * C m usually depends upon the congenital and frequent- 
ly hereditary elongation of the eyeball; the lens 
of the eye is more convex, as seen from the front. The relief is in 
a concave lens, which causes the rays of the light to converge so 
they can be brought to focus upon the retina. An over-tense con- 
dition of the nerves may too strongly contract the sides of the eye. 



THE EYES 145 

causing the lens to converge for a time. If this is true, glasses may 

be discarded when the nerves are relaxed. 

The cause of hyperopia (long-sightedness) 

tt is generally due to imperfect development of the 

or Hyperopia 

eye. 
The hypermetropic eye is elongated vertically, so that the lens 
of the eye, as seen from the front, is flattened and the relief is in a 
convex lens, as parallel rays would otherwise come to a focus behind 
the retina. 

The mechanism of the eye is marvelous. The 
p , . lens is most delicately elastic but in age becomes 

harder, less elastic, less easily adjusted, and the 
power to increase its curvature is lost. In a word, the function of 
accommodation begins to fail and the eye, for near sight, must be 
fitted with the convex lens. 

There is no doubt that the shape of the eye is 
Ch d changed by the habits of the childhood. Care should 

be taken not to frequently hold objects too close to the 
young babe, or the lens may become too convex, resulting in near- 
sightedness. Children should not be given too close work, but al- 
lowed to play out of doors much of the time where the range of 
vision is long. 

Too close application of the eye of the child to desk work at 
school is to be guarded against, and herein lies one grave danger 
in sending the child to school too early. Eight to ten years of age 
is young enough for a child to enter school. Work in the early 
grades should be done from charts at a distance and every care 
should be taken to have the school-room properly lighted. The 



146 BEAUTY A DUTY 

children should be so seated that the light falls upon their books 
from the back. They should not face the light and both children 
and adults should have opaque shades, closely drawn over the win- 
dows at night, that the sleeping room may be dark. 

It is a common occurrence for children's eyes to give out and 
show signs of weakness and disease, between the ages of twelve to 
fifteen. School children's eyes give out so frequently that they 
should be taught how to use and not to abuse them. The perfect 
health of the child means much more than the finishing of a given 
number of studies at a certain age. The cramming process and the 
goaded ambition of so many public school children is a dangerous 
menace to health. 

There are many varieties of granulated lids, de- 
, ., pending upon the part of the membrane affected, the 

kind of poison that gets into the eye, the size of the 
swelling in the affected glands, etc. It is a contagious affection. 
The germs can collect and the disease be transmitted to others by 
neglect of hygienic rules in such matters. Care should be taken that 
the difficulty be not conveyed through the careless use of wash 
cloths, towels or the eye cup. 

The symptoms of granulated lids vary with different people ; 
the most common symptoms being a roughness of the lids, a scratch- 
ing irritation of the eyeball, similar to particles of sand in the eyes, 
often accompanied by a sticky secretion from the eyes. 

The mucous membrane of the lids becomes thick and rough, 
owing to the little granular lumps that form on them, and the under 
side of the lid will be red, swollen and the glands much enlarged. 
This enlargement is caused by poisonous matter being located in the 



THE EYES 147 

under part of the upper lid; this burrows into the glands of the 
lining membranes, causing inflammation and other conditions re- 
sulting in what is called granulated lids. 

In all cases of this kind, give attention to the general health 
first, keep the bowels open and the vital organs active. Let the diet 
be plain, consisting of good nourishing food, meat (not fat), vege- 
tables and fruits in reasonable quantities. Tea, coffee, alcohol in 
any form, greases and fats must be eliminated. Fresh air, exercise, 
and plenty of sleep are very essential. If the lids do not respond 
to mild and hygienic treatment, the oculist should take the case in 
hand. 

The boric acid wash given on page 157, is excellent for the relief 
of granulated lids, and may be used in the eye cup night and 
morning. 

Ninety per cent of eye diseases originate from 
Eye Diseases weakness, neglect, or from eye-strain. Eye diseases 
should be treated only by specialists. A large 
number of eye difficulties are symptoms of other diseases, and the 
greater majority should be first treated through their causes. Iritis 
may, for example, be associated with rheumatism, diabetes, syphilis, 
gonorrhea, etc., and it is useless to attempt to correct the inflamma- 
tion of the iris, without correcting its cause. 

Diseases of the liver accompanied by jaundice sometimes cause 
yellow vision (xanthopsia) and it is claimed that retinal hemorrhages 
sometimes occur in these, cases. All eye weaknesses are helped more 
through exercise of the eye muscles and special exercises for strength- 
ening the vital organs than by local treatment, because through this 
treatment the blood and circulation are built up and all bodily func- 
tions are aided. 



148 BEAUTY A DUTY 

A cataract is not a growth on or in the eye, as is 
Cataracts commonly supposed, but is the result of the lens of the 
eye turning white. Cataracts usually form slowly, but in 
some cases appear suddenly in a week or even a few hours. When 
only one eye is affected it is but a matter of time when the other 
will also be affected. This condition should be treated most care- 
fully by the best oculist obtainable. The condition is most serious. 
In eczema of the eyelids, the free edges of the 
Evel'ds ^' or ^ e s ^ n over the orbital margin of the tarsal 

cartilage, becomes affected. In such cases the hair 
follicles become inflamed and there will be a purulent, glutinous 
discharge, which causes the eyes to stick together. The lids become 
swollen, with tiny crusts between, or glued to the lashes. In eczema 
of the face there is usually a swelling and puffiness of the lower lid. 

Eczema of the eyelids is due to various constitutional causes. 
Various soothing lotions are required for this and sometimes it is 
necessary to extract the eyelashes. When the eyelids are affected 
by eruptive fevers the case requires tonic treatment. 

The scalp, which is in close proximity, must be carefully looked 
after in all cases and if there are marked symptoms of dandruff, 
the head must be shampooed once a week, and the scalp treated as 
directed in the chapter on ' ' The Hair. ' ' 

In treating the eyelids for eczema, cleanse the edges of the lids 
very carefully with a weak alkaline solution applied with a very soft 
camel's hair brush. They should then be dried thoroughly, but 
gently, and anointed with a cold cream salve, made from equal parts 
of cold cream and zinc salve, or equal parts of cold cream and lanolin. 

When the eyelids are closed, as often happens in acute cases, 



THE EYES 149 

they may be bathed frequently with a warm solution of boric acid at 
a strength of one to two drachms of boric acid to a pint of water. 
This solution may be applied to the eyes by soaking strips of soft 
lint or cloth in it, and laying them over the closed eye lids for as 
long periods as possible, several times a day. 

Styes are tiny boils caused by inflammation arising in 
Styes the hair follicles from which the eyelashes grow. Hot appli- 
cations will give relief and the pain will be greatly lessened by 
bathing the effected eye every hour with hot water and boric acid. 
Dissolve a tablespoonful of the latter in a pint of water and heat. 

If the sty festers or comes to a white head, the hair springing 
from the boil should be pulled out, so that the retained matter may 
have an outlet through the little hole where the hair is removed. 
This can easily be done with a small pair of tweezers. 

The common lid-tumors can be lanced by almost 
Lid-Tumors any one of the least surgical skill; they are simply 
retained cysts. Thorough curetting, to destroy the sac, 
must follow incision, or they will recur. 

These days of automobiling have brought about 
A ff t g eye affections which require new devices for protect- 

ing the eyes from serious difficulties attendant upon 
exposure to wind, dust and strong sunlight. There is always danger 
of serious inflammation resulting from a swift or long automobile 
ride, unless the eyes are properly protected. A chiffon veil is a 
slight protection, but regular automobile glasses, adjusted and fitted 
closely to the forehead and cheek, so that no dust can sift through, 
are safer and more satisfactory. 

The effort of nature to protect the eyes from dust and strong 



150 BEAUTY A DUTY 

light contracts the eyebrows and produces many vertical wrinkles 
between the eyes. 

A strong wind causes irritation, inflammation and a burning 
and watering of the eyes, and if alkali poisons fill the air at the same 
time, and are blown into the eye, the irritation is most severe. 

Heat and smoke quickly irritate, causing the eyes to water, smart 
and become inflamed. 

Extreme cold will often make the eyes water profusely. 

Strong sunlight will tire and blind the eyes. 

Some of the symptoms of eye-strain are a twitching 
Tired Eyes of the lids, sensitiveness to light, or blurring of letters 
when reading. All of these symptoms should be suffi- 
cient warning to take prompt steps for relief. The use of the eye 
cup with the cold solution of boric acid and water should be attended 
to daily. 

Never read in a subdued light or in the waning twilight. Hold 
your book or paper about on a level with the eyes, and from fourteen 
to twenty inches away; the closer a book is held to the eyes, the 
greater is the muscular and accommodation strain. 

When your work is such that the eyes have close application 
for any extended length of time, it will be found restful to change the 
accommodation of the eye from time to time by simply looking out 
of the window, or away at any distant object. When they are in 
constant use at close range, the strain will often show in a drawn 
expression of the face, the forehead will show wrinkles and the eye- 
lids become red and inflamed. 

When the eyes are tired or strained from over-use, the only 
course is to close and rest them. 



THE EYES 151 

Great relief may be obtained by lying down with the eyes closed. 
Have a basin of cold water at hand beside you. Dip a cloth into it, 
wring fairly dry and place over the eyes, frequently dipping the 
cloth into the cold water to keep it sufficiently wet. 

If the eyes are red and inflamed use hot instead of cold water. 

Be sure to sleep in a dark room that the eyes may rest at night. 

General exercise to start a forceful circulation and deep breath- 
ing exercises will both rest the eyes and tone the nerves. For best 
effect the exercises should be followed by complete relaxation. The 
blood feeds the tissues in rest after exercise. 

Puffs under the eyes are often an early sign of dis- 
Puffs under „ , . , . , „ , , -^ ,. „ . 

Eves ease kidneys or of the heart. Relief in either 

case lies in constitutional treatment for the general 
system and particularly for the strengthening of the kidneys, the 
circulation and the heart. A good circulation will do more than any- 
thing else to remove this defect. 

Atropin is an irritant narcotic. It is extensively 

Eye Drops used by oculists to dilate the pupil and paralyze the 

nerves of accommodation. By keeping these nerves in 

this condition a few days, it is always possible to determine whether 

a headache is caused by the eyes. 

A headache, which does not yield to the daily instillation of one 
per cent atropin solution cannot be an eye headache. Of course, this 
should not be applied except by a physician or an oculist. 

Weeping eyes, which cause a constant overflow of 

Weeping 

„ tears, are usually due to obstruction of the tear duct. 

Hyes 

This is one-half inch long and carries the tears from the 
upper part of the nasal duct into the passage of the nose. A large 



152 BEAUTY A DUTY 

number of cases is caused by some affection of the nose. For such, 
argyrol renders not only great therapeutic but prognostic service, 
as it penetrates into the lachrymal sac, passes down the nasal duct, 
and is blown freely from the nose. 

Argyrol is a comparatively new compound and the fact that it 
is an efficient, harmless antiseptic, though not an active astringent, 
admirably adapts it for use in the eye and accounts for its general 
use in the medical profession. It is especially helpful in acute con- 
junctival inflammation, so much so, that many of these cases no 
longer find their way to the specialist. 

For acute infections, catarrh, or "Pink Eye" as it is called, the 
instillation of a 10% solution of argyrol, and one-eighth to one-fourth 
grain to the ounce solution of zinc sulphate on alternate hours, comes 
a& near a specific treatment as possible. The zinc sulphate is an 
astringent and the argyrol an antiseptic. In purulent cases the argy- 
rol should be instilled every fifteen minutes, or half hour, until all 
pus has ceased, and then the use of an astringent begun. 

As argyrol is the only non-irritating antiseptic which can be 
used in the eye "ad libitum," it should be used in case of all eye 
wounds. 

When, by accident, any foreign substance, 
s , such as a particle of dust, or a cinder, has lodged 

in the eye, pull the lower lid of the affected eye 
well down and at the same time look up toward the ceiling. This 
exposes the lower part of the eyeball, and the foreign particle, if 
visible, may be removed. If it is not on the eyeball, then draw 
the upper lid well down over the lower and, holding the lid in 
this position, roll the eye around several times ; if on the upper eye- 



THE EYES 153 

lid it may thus be wiped off by the lower one. If not on the upper lid 
draw the lower well up over the upper. If the cinder can be located, 
take a clean linen handkerchief and, slightly twisting one corner, 
gently remove it from the eye; then wash the eyes with a solution 
of boracic acid, using the eye cup as directed on page 157. 

If the foreign particle cannot be seen, and the natural flow of 
tears does not bring it out, pull the lower eyelid down, drop a whole 
flax seed on the lower lid, and allow it to slide around the entire eye 
ball. A gelatinous moisture will form on the surface of the seed, so 
that it will move around the eye safely, and it will usually pick up, on 
its sticky surface, any small particle, unless it is too deeply lodged 
in the cornea of the eyeball, in which case it is best to have an oculist 
remove it and apply a soothing lotion. 

As stated above, the nerves about the eyes are 
Dark Circles most delicate and respond at once to worry and dis- 
pleasure, occasioned either by outside influences, or by 
physical ills. A derangement in any part of the body, which in any 
way affects the nerves, the circulation, or the composition of the 
blood, so acts upon the fat gobules that they almost disappear, both 
from the eyelids and back of the eye. 

If the muscles about the eye become weakened and the cushion 
of fat upon which the eye rests, disappears, the eye sinks in the 
socket and dark circles appear, while the pigment in the skin about 
the eye often increases, making the skin itself darker. No part of 
the face so quickly expresses the general condition of the physical 
being and so accurately registers the degree of nerve strength, or 
poise of brain, and character of thought, as the eyes, and they respond 
most quickly to the general toning of the system. 



154 BEAUTY A DUTY 

No local application will correct dark circles under the eyes. 
The circulation, general vitality, pelvic organs, nerves and kidneys 
must be strengthened. 

Eye exercises, with the free use of cold water, will correct sunken 
eyes and keep the muscles about them firm, unless the defect is the 
result of ill health. In that event, of course, the health must be built 
up first. 

For the removal of wrinkles about the eyes and as an aid in 
building up the tissues about them, facial massage to build up all of 
the connecting muscles should be employed and skin food, or face 
cream, used to keep the skin elastic. It must be remembered that 
the expression given to the eye depends greatly upon the tone of 
muscles about it. 



THE EYES 155 

Hygienic Treatment for the Eyes 

The use of cold water upon the eyes, or the 



alternation of hot and cold water, together with 



Hot and 

Cold Applications 

exercises and proper attention to diet, bathing 



and breathing, which insure complete metabolic activity and strength 
of the system, will improve not only the strength and elasticity of 
the ciliary muscles, but the elasticity of the lens as well, and by care 
of the general health the eyesight may be preserved for a much 
longer time. 

It will be remembered that, upon the strength of the ciliary 
muscles and the nerves controlling them, depends the normal focus 
and the power of the eye to accommodate itself to change of vision. 

The general principle governing the application of hot and cold 
water must be borne in mind. Hot water is applied when muscles 
and nerves need immediate relaxation and when the capillaries have 
been unduly overstrained or distended; that is when the eyes are 
blood-shot or the eyelids red. Hot milk is even more salutary than 
hot water in case of inflammation. 

Heat should be applied to the eyes by wringing cloths out of 
hot water or hot milk and laying them over the eyes. Never make 
the mistake of applying heat with a hot water bottle over this 
compress. 

Applications of hot cloths give relief, in incipient abscess for- 
mations and are generally useful in all affections of the eye, save 
those of conjunctivitis (inflammation of the mucous membrane cover- 



156 BEAUTY A DUTY 

ing the anterior portion of the globe of the eye). This inflammation 
is often catarrhal. 

Poultices should never be used about the eyes. Hot ones have 
been known to entirely destroy the sight. 

Cold water is used when it is desirable that a better strength 
of the metabolic activity be gained, as in the case of a general weak- 
ened condition of the eyes, or in case of conjunctivitis. 

The use of cold water upon the eyes strengthens the muscles and 
stimulates the nerves of the eyes just as a cold water bath strength- 
ens the skin. 

Cold water, to create a better activity in carrying away waste 
and assimilating nourishment, may be alternated with hot water for 
relaxation, with excellent results. The alternation of hot and cold 
water stimulates the nerves and invigorates the circulation. 

Cold water may be applied by wringing a cloth from cold water 
and laying it over the eyes, by dashing it upon the eyes with the 
wash cloth morning and night, or by use of the eye cup. The eye 
cup is the most effective means, as suggested below, but the quickest 
means is the wash cloth. 

Any sudden inflammation of the eye can be retarded and relieved 
by the application of hot and cold water, alternated. When bathing 
the face in cold water, dash the cold cloth upon the eyes about fifteen 
times morning and night, being careful not to press upon the eye- 
ball. This plan should be made a daily habit. 

Eye cups may be purcheased at any drug store for 
Eye Cup about fifteen cents, and no medicine closet should be with- 
out one. They are useful in applying cold water and antiseptic 
solutions. 



THE EYES 157 

A mild antiseptic, disinfectant and eye cleanser 
g , . to assist in allaying inflammation and to insure against 

danger of microbes in the water, may be made by 
adding a tablespoonful of boracic acid to one pint of distilled, or 
pure soft water, which has been boiled. This should be put into a 
bottle, corked and kept in a cool place. 

The proper way to use the eye cup is to fill it half full of the 
solution; hold the head down, fit the cup to the eye socket, so the 
contents will be retained; then holding the cup firmly in position, 
throw the head back, at the same time inverting the cup; then open 
and shut the eye slowly 10 or 12 times, rolling the eye when open. 




How to use the Eye Cup 

This will strengthen the eyes and keep the muscles about them firm 
and vigorous and the nerves toned. Bathe them night and morning, 
allowing the solution to thoroughly wash the eyeball. Eoll the eyes 
in a circle several times while the solution is about them. 

The above solution may be put into the eye twice a day with an 
eye dropper if preferred, but if the eye be rolled freely, the eye cup 



158 BEAUTY A DUTY 

will be found more effective. It should be used regularly each night 
for an eye cleanser; it is especially good for granulated lids or sore 
eyes, which so often trouble school children. 

For eye weakness alone, glasses should never be put on children, 
but the boracic acid solution should be used each night faithfully, 
to cleanse the eyes from all poisonous matter and stimulate the 
nerves. 

Lead washes should be barred. 

Another excellent eye wash which may be applied with the eye 
cup or the eye dropper is made from 2 oz. of camphor water and 2 
grains of boracic acid. This is especially good for watery eyes. 

If the eyes are inclined to smart and become red when out in the 
cold, apply the following astringent with the eye cup: 
2y 2 oz (1 wine glass) distilled water 
2y 2 oz (1 wine glass) Pond's Extract 

An excellent tonic for the eyes, is made from 
Tonic for Eyes 1 oz. of distilled water and 1 grain of alum. Keep 
bottled in a cool place. Apply with an eye dropper, 
by holding the head well back and the eyes wide open. Squeeze one 
drop into each eye, close the eyes and roll them around from side 
to side two or three times to get the liquid thoroughly under the lids. 
This will freshen the appearance and feeling of the eyes wonderfully 
and will not harm them. 

If the eyelids are red, sore or inflamed and easily 

E I'd tired, compresses of hot milk or hot water, kept 

thoroughly hot for fifteen to twenty minutes after 

retiring, leaving the last compress on the eyes over night, will allay 

the inflammation. These applications may be used at any time 



THE EYES 159 

during the day, but one should avoid exposure for an hour or two 
afterward. This is one reason why it is well to apply them after 
retiring. 

The cream of sweet milk is very soothing and nourishing, and 
will be found a splendid wrinkle eradicator, if used daily. It not 
only soothes, but feeds the tissues, and is especially good for the little 
wrinkles at the outer corners of the eyes. If the dish that holds 
the milk, or cream, is set into a basin of hot water long enough to 
slightly heat the cream, it will soak into the skin more readily. 
Rubbed over the forehead and temples gently, it gives a soothing 
effect and helps to remove the lines of worry and care. 

If the eyes are "glued together" by dried excretions, which 
have escaped from them at night, bathe freely in hot milk night and 
morning. 

When the eyes are highly inflamed and sensitive to the light, it 
is well to stay in a darkened room and apply hot milk, or hot water, 
as above. 

The eyes should be given daily all around exercise for strength- 
ening and stimulating the muscles back of them,— at least they should 
be opened wide three or four times a day. 



11 



160 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Eyelids, Eyebeows and Eyelashes 

An abundant, full eyebrow, prettily arched, lends strength and 
softness to the face, and may be as easily cultivated as hair on any 
other part of the body. 

The eyebrows, as well as the lashes, are a protection, and 
prevent perspiration and other foreign matter from rolling off 
the forehead into the eyes. They should be carefully trained and 
shaped, especially if they are at all shaggy, or inclined to grow the 
wrong way, as they will do when very heavy. Oftentimes the whole 
expression of the face is changed by untrained, ill shaped and shaggy 
brows. 

The hairs in the eyebrows grow in two directions ; the upper row 
slants downward, while the lower one slants upward. To train them 
properly it is a good plan to rub them with the fingers occasionally 
and also to brush them when making the toilet, with a soft eyebrow 
brush, kept for this purpose. If the line of the eyebrow is uneven, 
and there are any long hairs which spoil the curve, these disfiguring 
hairs may be removed with small forceps or tweezers. 

Artists have long appreciated the importance of this feature. 
It may immeasurably add to or detract from a comely face. It is 
often the case that one feature, if it is exceptionally good, will divert 
attention from less attractive features. A woman with one fine 
feature often will be remembered by it and her homely features be 
forgotten. 

Nothing lends such a bewitching lustrous eye shading, as a full 
long eyelash, which tantalizes the beholder with tie unconscious 
desire to look into the depths beneath. 



THE EYES 161 

The length and luxuriance of eyelashes depend upon the con- 
dition of the lids and the amount of care given the eyes themselves, 
as well as upon the character of the blood and its perfect circulation. 
There is a diversity of opinion as to whether or not the eyelashes 
should be cut, but it is now generally conceded that cutting stimulates 
their growth, thickens them and invigorates their general health. 

This trimming or clipping of the eyelashes must be done very 
carefully and evenly. Use a pair of curved scissors and clip only 
the very tips. This should not be done oftener than every three 
months. 

To increase the growth of the lashes, bathe the eyes in hot water 
or milk just before going to bed each night ; then apply a very little 
pure vaseline upon the edges of the lids, using the point of the orange 
stick as for the eyebrows., allowing it to remain over night. 

If the eyelashes are thin and straggling, it not only mars the 

beauty of the face, but the eyes are apt to become inflamed or weak, 

because they are not properly protected from particles of dust and 

dirt. When the lashes grow as they should, they will be in several 

distinct rows on the edge of the lid, there being sometimes as many 
as four rows. 

The oil glands of the eyelashes are quite large and their secre- 
tions prevent the lids from adhering to each other. 

Care should be exercised in wearing glasses, that the lashes do 
not come in contact with the glass, as this will stunt their growth 
and spoil the shape. 

The practice of slitting the skin at the corners of 

E ,. , the eyes to make them appear larger and deeper, is 

a very risky one, even when the operation is per- 



162 BEAUTY A DUTY 

formed by an expert surgeon. It is not necessary for any woman 
to resort to any such expedient if she will practice simple exercises 
for keeping the eyes fully open, bright, and wide awake. 
E ye As one approaches the meridian of life, the muscles 

Exercises an( j nerves about the eyes need daily exercise to keep 
them firm and strong. On account of their delicacy and 
the looseness of the skin about them the mas-sage of the surrounding 
tissue should be done very carefully. 

The little lines that come around, below, and at the outer corners 
of the eyes are not, in all cases, due to age, but to eye-strain, lowered 
vitality and lack of bodily care generally; in other words they are 
"tired lines," which nothing but complete rest and proper treatment 
will eradicate. 

Water and exercises for the muscles and nerves about the 
eyes, help to stimulate a better circulation, so that the toxins and 
waste matter are carried away through the veins and lymph channels. 
By removing these toxins, the eyes are relieved and rested; they 
assume a brighter and more healthy appearance, the muscles take 
on a new tone and the activity of the skin is increased as the proper 
elimination of waste, through the right channels, is promoted; the 
skin is made more elastic by the nourishment brought to it through 
more blood and more readily shrinks to the size of the tissues 
beneath. 

Massage of the eye should be applied with very great delicacy 
of touch. 

Before attempting any movement for the eyes, see that the hands 
are clean and that the skin immediately about the eyes is lubricated 
freely with a cold cream, pure white vaseline, olive oil, or lanolin. 



THE EYES 163 

Vaseline is particularly valuable for the massage about the eyes 
because it stimulates the hair follicles in the lids and lashes. ' 

Very thin eyebrows will often give the face 

To Promote Growth . ..... , , . , .„ 

c „ , a bare, over-mquisitive or surprised look and it 

of Eyebrows 

the brows are thin, pencil them with vaseline, 
applied with the tip of an orange stick. 

Study the contour of your eyebrows as related to the expression 
of your face. If they are too straight, you can arch them by pencil- 
ing a little vaseline just over the center of each eyebrow, if too 
arched, ''pencil" the vaseline at the outer edges only. Use only a 
little vaseline, each night, penciling always the same, and do it reg- 
ularly, every night. Your efforts will be rewarded by a soft, silky 
growth, just where you want it. A gentle, rotary massage of the 
eyebrows each morning and each night before applying the vaseline, 
helps to stimulate growth by stimulating circulation ; but do not mas- 
sage after applying the vaseline, else you will widen and destroy the 
contour you are so carefully cultivating. 

An eyebrow brush should be kept upon the toilet table and used 
as frequently as the hair brush. It will encourage good circulation 
through the skin of the brows and thus nourish the roots and promote 
new growth. 

Nature provides the coloring of the eyebrows 
Evebrows ^ es ^ sm ted *° * ne face and I am not in sympathy with 

coloring the eyelashes or eyebrows. When one 
wishes to do so, however, an eyebrow pencil can be bought for that 
purpose, or a common lead pencil will serve the same purpose if it 
is of soft lead. Care should be taken, if the brows are darkened, to 
follow the exact line of the natural eyebrow, also judgment must be 



164 BEAUTY A DUTY 

used that the brows be not darkened too much, or they will give the 
face a grotesque or artificial appearance. 

The woman who wishes to make the most of her- 
Color Effect self will never neglect to enhance the value of the 
expression of the eye. 

The color of the eyes may be deepened and they may be made 
to appear larger by wearing colors which bring out the lights and 
shadows fully; blue eyes will be deepened and the color brought out 
strongly by wearing a blue gown or a suggestion of blue about the 
face while a band of black velvet at the throat will often deepen the 
color of dark eyes. 

One can emphasize the color and depth of the eye very materially 
by selecting a gown or hat with some trimming near the face, which 
is a little deeper shade of blue, brown, or black than the eye. The 
blue of a gray eye is brought out decidedly by a gray blue, while 
light gray makes a gray eye look faded and tired. 

A brown eye is made deeper brown and more lustrous> by brown 
of a deeper, more lustrous shade worn near the face, while a light 
brown gives the eye a faded look. 

In the selection of a color to bring out the eye, either emphasize 
the shade by selecting a color of deeper intensity, or by selecting a 
contrasting one. 

Don'ts for the Eyes 

Don't read in a dim or flickering light, as it puts extra work on 
the ciliary muscles in their effort to sharpen the sight. 

Don't sit tied up in a "bow knot," with your head bent over, 
when reading. 

Don 't read lying down. 



THE EYES 165 

Don't read until your eyes ache and blur. 

Don't read in street car, or train. 

Don't strain the eyes by reading, when recovering from a severe 
illness. 

Do not wear large-dotted veils. They keep the focus of the eyes 
constantly changing. If veils are worn they should be thin and of 
large, plain mesh. 

Don't leave a cinder in the eye over night, or you may find an 
ulcer in the morning. 

Don't "squint" the eyes, for it develops ugly lines and wrinkles 
in the forehead. 

Don't sleep in a light room. 

Don't use poultices on the eyes. 

Do not form the habit of rubbing the eyes. If the eyes itch or 
burn, bathe them in either hot or cold water. Rubbing the eyes many 
times leads to inflammation and injury of the sight. 



Chapter IV 
THE NOSE 



The beauty of the face, as well as the nature it expresses, 
depends largely upon the profile, and no features so directly affect 
the facial contour as the nose and the chin. A study of the types 
of noses is an interesting character study. 

Since ancient times, the nose has been considered the "featural 
index" to the character of its owner. No one knows this better than 
the artist, who must, to a great degree, portray the character of his 
subject by the outline of the nose. 

The illustrations of character, on the accompanying plates of 
eyes and noses, give a good idea of the diversity of expression pos- 
sible. Marvel of marvels ! Nature never repeats herself ; the study 
of millions of faces reveals no two features alike. 

The shape of the nose depends very much upon the bridge, 
which is formed by the two small bones placed together, so as to 
make an angle at the top. If these two bones are placed closer 
together at their junction with the cheek bones, the angle at the top 
is more acute and the nose will be thin. If the bones are spread at 
the base, the angle at the top is blunt and the nose will be broad 
at the base, hence the broadening or the narrowness of these bones 
at the base may change the shape of the nose of the young child. 

166 



THE NOSE 167 

Will power, aggressiveness, materialism, weak- 
Nose Indicates - _ . , . ,. 
T ness and refinement may be expressed by the nose. 

Wide or prominent nostrils usually indicate a 
highly sensitive nature. The aquiline nose indicates refinement and 
sensitiveness, while an abnormally large or pug nose suggests mate- 
rial and often gross tendencies (see Figures 1 and 2). Yet a pug 
nose may be the result of a lack of care in childhood, when soft, 
yielding bones respond so readily to gentle pressure. 

A very low bridge denotes a dominance of the physical nature, 
as shown in semi-civilized and savage races, and a decided lack of 
artistic temperament, or literary taste. (See Figures 1 and 2.) 

Artists, in all ages, have taken the Grecian outline as the type 
of a perfect profile. In this nose there is but a slight downward curve 
at the junction of the nose with the forehead, making almost a 
straight line. This high bridge is commonly considered the expres- 
sion of an artistic nature, with a literary turn of mind. (See Figs. 
10 and 11.) 

However, the deep thought of practical men of affairs, who have 
artistic temperaments, has tended to bring the forehead a little more 
into prominence, so that the straight, Grecian line of nose and fore- 
head is not so often seen, the forehead projecting so that the bridge 
of the nose, at the top, may be moderately high, yet the forehead so 
protrudes as to make a slight concave curve, at the junction of the 
forehead with the nose. 

Upon the shape of the nasal passages depends, 

Voice Culture to a degree, the quality of voice tone, the nose being 

a very important factor in tone production. If the 

nasal passages are not kept free and open, the result is a tone, 



168 BEAUTY A DUTY 

ordinarily known as "nasal." The ear of the mother should be alert 
to detect any stoppages in the nasal passages of the child, which may 
indicate adenoids, polypi or catarrh. These can be detected through 
the voice. 

The quality of the voice has much to do with the comfort and 
happiness of those about us and with the impression we make upon 
others ; it also has its reflex action upon ourselves. Voice culture, — 
the production of tone, — is a subject which should be studied by 
every woman of culture and refinement, — particularly by the Amer- 
ican woman. 

The nerve tension under which the American woman lives, as 
well as the changeable climate, tends to develop voices which are 
harsh, rasping and shrill. We should learn to modulate the voice 
and to control the throat and diaphragmatic muscles, so that our 
voices may not penetrate beyond the necessary limit. Surely, "A 
soft voice is an excellent thing in woman" ; it is a mark of refinement. 

It is possible during the growing years to 
N Ch d shape and mould the bones of the nose. In later 
years, the contour of the muscles may be changed, 
to a great extent, by proper massage, but not the bones. 

In washing the faces of children, mothers and nurses should 
watch for defects along this line. If there is a slight malformation, 
it can often be wholly corrected by carefully and gently moulding 
and massaging with the fingers. 

If the bridge of a child's nose be low, while the bones are soft 
and pliable, it can be slightly raised by gently and regularly pressing 
the nasal bones together at the base, thus raising the bridge to a 
more acute angle. 



THE NOSE 169 

When there is a serious deformity, it should receive surgical 
attention, while the child is young. If injuries are sustained by a 
fall or accident the difficulty can usually be remedied by a surgeon. 

In the young, the nostrils are easily stretched out of shape, and 
care should be exercised in so simple a process as the use of the 
handkerchief or a wash cloth. A nose can be eventually mis-shaped 
and deformed by the habit of twisting it in wiping with an upward, 
rough movement. Children should also be cautioned against the 
removal of any accumulation from the nose by means of the fingers. 
If care be not exercised, the nostrils will be enlarged and their shape 
spoiled ; besides, it is a very obnoxious habit. 

In case of nasal catarrh, blackheads, or pimples, regular mas- 
sage of the nose is important, as it quickens the circulation and 
strengthens the nerves and tissues there. I give to each pupil the 
massage movements suited to the condition. 

When there is a tendency for the corners of the nose to settle at 
the base, in the little creases, the face should be massaged, at 
the base of the nose, to prevent the lines that are inclined to 
form from the nose to the corners of the mouth. There is a tend- 
ency with some, as years creep on, for the corners of the wings to 
draw in, if not massaged properly. This would increase and accent- 
uate the line from the nose to the mouth. 

If the nostrils are thick or too open, do not massage the wings 
but shape them carefully by pressing together with the fingers. The 
use of a nose-clip will help to make the end of a broad nose more 
shapely; but this must be fitted so that the pressure will not be too 
great. Sometimes a clothes pin, of the clip variety, is used. All 
such appliances must be persistently used for some time before sat- 



170 BEAUTY A DUTY 

isfactory results will show. When one has an unusually broad nose 
at the base, the clip may be so adjusted upon the nostrils, at night, 
as to gently compress the fullness. 

Care should be taken to so adjust these clips as not to close the 
nasal passages to the extent of preventing free breathing. If the 
nose has a tendency to turn up at the end, as frequently occurs where 
the base is too large, the clip may be so adjusted as to press the flesh 
downward. If it has a tendency to hook downward at the end, the 
clip may be arranged to raise the end slightly upward. 

The nose should be thoroughly cleansed with a wash 
Cleansing cloth each morning upon awakening and as a regular 
routine habit. If there is a tendency toward catarrhal 
trouble, there will many times be an accumulation of mucus in the 
throat and nose that gives rise to a gagging sensation, until the toilet 
of the nose is attended to. 

A simple, hygienic treatment for the nose is to dissolve a quarter 
of a teaspoon of salt in half a tumbler of cold water, and spray it 
well up into the nasal passages with an atomizer. This strengthens 
the mucous lining. It will relieve any dryness or itching of the 
mucous lining due to dust, etc., and may be done each morning after 
the nose has been cleansed, to keep the nostrils and nose passages 
healthy. It is a valuable aid in the correction and prevention of 
catarrh. In case the catarrh has affected the ear drum, water should 
never be sniffed up the nose,— the atomizer should always be used. 
If there is a thickening of the bone, or mucous 

NclScll 

B ,. growth, or any obstruction to proper breathing, so that 

sufficient air does not enter the lungs, the health is sure 
to suffer, and every effort must be exercised to breathe freely through 
the nostrils, as this habit tends to keep the passages open. 



THE NOSE 171 

One who breathes habitually through the mouth, is usually 
mentally or physically weak and lacking in powers of concentration. 
The mental powers are weakened because the brain suffers from 
poor nourishment; the physical powers are weakened, owing to the 
poor quality of blood, due to insufficient oxygen to purify it before 
it courses through the body. One should breathe only through the 
nose and if there are any growths, which narrow or close the nasal 
passage, they should be removed by absorption, or by a competent 
surgeon, as soon as possible. 

The nose is so formed that the air has considerable distance to 
travel before it reaches the wind pipe. (See Fig. 1 below.) The cold 
air, inhaled, is thus warmed during its passage through the nose, 
before it enters the lungs, thereby preventing irritation or congestion 
of the lungs. 

t- It 




Figure 1. 

The left lateral wall of the nasal cavity showing the vestibule of the 
naso-pharynx. (Toldt) 

1, Sphcno-ethmoidal recess. 2, Sphenoidal foramen. 3, Superior 
meatus of the nose. 4, Superior turbinal. 5, Middle turbinal. 6, Middle 
meatus of the nose. 7, Frontal sinus. 8, Agger nasi. 9. Atrium of the 
middle meatus. 10. Upper lateral cartilage. 11, Limen vestibuli. 12, Ves- 
tibule of the nose. 13, Inferior turbinal. 14, Soft palate. 15, Salping 
pharyngeal fold. 16. Levator cushion. 17, Pharyngeal orifice of the Eus- 
tachian tube. 18, Cushion of the Eustachian tube. 19, Naso-pharyngeal 
fold. 20, Naso-pharyngeal part of the lateral wall of the nasal fossae. 
21, Occipitosphenoidal synchondrosis. 22, Arched summit of the pharynx. 

By permission of Rebman Company, New York. 



172 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The irregular or turbinated bones in the nose are another means 
of protection. 

The nasal passage, lined as it is by a mucous membrane covered 
with hairs, collects on its surface dirt, bacteria and other organic 
and inorganic matter, and prevents much irritating matter from 
reaching the lungs. As the air passes through the nose, it absorbs 
more or less moisture, which renders it more acceptable to the lungs. 

The nose is lined throughout with a delicate mucous membrane, 
in the upper portion of which the olfactory nerve filaments are dis- 
tributed. These are the nerves of smell. 

When breathing through the mouth, the cold air strikes the 
throat and the upper air chamber and has a tendency to induce ton- 
silitis and other throat diseases, as well as difficulties in the upper 
air chamber, or naso-pharynx, thus aggravating catarrhal affections 
of the ears, nose and throat and colds in the head. 

Nasal breathing induces a stronger, fuller expansion of the 
entire lung. If you will open the mouth and take a deep breath, you 
will find that the upper lungs are not fully inflated. When the air 
in this portion of the lungs is not regularly changed, it opens a path 
for consumptive germs; for it is usually in the upper lungs that 
tuberculosis begins. Hence it is most important to form the habit 
of nose breathing, so that it will become fixed during sleep, as well 
as during waking hours. 

Do not blow the nose too hard; this irritates and affects the 
Eustachian tube and the ear drum, often injuring them permanently. 

It is well to remember that operations on the nose should, when- 
ever possible, be performed in warm weather, since the wounds will 
heal more readily during that season. 



THE NOSE 173 

One with a good breathing capacity, is almost always endowed 
with excellent health and strong power of endurance. While most 
people admit and realize the importance of a proper method of 
breathing, few form correct habits of breathing. 

The child is taught to walk, to sing, to dance, to use his hands and 
use his brain, etc., but the all important education of how he should 
use his lungs to their fullest capacity is often neglected— yet this 
function is so important that he can live only a few seconds with- 
out air. 

No one habit is more injurious to the shape and expression of 
the mouth than mouth breathing. 

If natural means, such as the towel and the daily exercises for 
opening and strengthening the nasal passages, described above, fail, 
the nose and throat specialist should be consulted, to ascertain if a 
growth in the nose, or any malformation is causing the difficulty. 
Enlargement of the turbinated bones in the inner part of the nose, 
adenoids, or a polypus in the nasal passages, will cause mouth breath- 
ing. In such cases, an operation should be resorted to at once, for, 
as explained elsewhere, free nasal breathing is absolutely essential 
to good health. 

As far back as in the book of Genesis, we are told "He breathed 
into his nostrils (not his mouth) the breath of life." 

Exercises for Nose Breathing 

To open the nasal passages and to assist in the formation of 
the habit of breathing through the nose, take the following exercise 
three or four times a day, and as much oftener as you can remember. 

Put one finger over one nostril at a time, inhaling and exhaling 
very slowly through the other nostril. As you do so, direct your 



174 BEAUTY A DUTY 

thoughts to the muscles and mucous lining of the nose. With the 
thought so directed, you quicken the nerve impulse to the nose and 
thus strengthen the nerves. As you inhale the throat (not the mouth) 
will open; as you exhale,— if you will try to hold the throat open 
until the air is almost all out of the lungs,— you will learn a valuable 
lesson in voice culture. 

One of the first requisites for nose breathing is a flexibility of 
the wings of the nose. To gain this, take a full, deep breath with 
mouth closed and, while breathing, dilate or stretch the nostrils as 
wide as possible, making a conscious effort to bring about the dila- 
tion. 

In order to breathe through the nose when the mouth is open, 
press the tongue against the roof of the hard palate while drawing 
in the breath. 

Snoring results from the vibrations of air upon the 
Snoring soft palate. If one does not breathe through the mouth in 
sleep, the air will not vibrate the palate and snoring will 
be impossible. 

One is more liable to snore when lying on the back, because in 
this position, the chin drops and the mouth more easily opens. 

In cases of habitual mouth breathing and resultant snoring, the 
following method has proven an effective cure, at the same time 
resulting in expanding the nostrils, thus improving the shape of the 
lower part of the nose, which, in the case of mouth breathers, is 
usually too narrow at the base : 

Pin a towel over the mouth when retiring. Fold it narrowly, 
so it will not interfere with the nasal breathing, and sufficiently thick 
to prevent breathing through it; pin it snugly, but not too tight, at 
the back of the head. 



THE NOSE 175 

Catarrh, Hay Fever and Asthma are all more 
N , p or less affections of the mucous lining of the nasal 

passages, but when the nerves, muscles and mucous 
linings or membranes of these passages are strengthened by proper 
breathing exercises, by thorough circulation of good, pure blood, the 
difficulty will often be relieved. 

Asthmatic as well as hay fever and catarrhal difficulties yield 
best to the building up of a good circulation and blood supply, to 
deep breathing and to exercises for freeing the nerve centers about 
the neck and spine. In this way the nerve centers controlling the 
nasal passages and bronchial tubes are reached. Special breathing 
exercises and massage to strengthen the mucous lining of the nasal 
passages and bronchial tubes, exercises for the freedom of the dorsal 
muscles, and nerves, freedom of the spine, and exercises to lift the 
rib cage into position are helpful. 

Local treatments alone are not sufficient for asthma, hay fever 
or catarrh, however. The special exercises must be accompanied 
by work to build up the entire system. The person whose general 
health is what it should be is rarely, if ever, attacked by one of these 
complaints. 

Hay Fever is most usual in people of highly super- 
Hay Fever sensitive, nervous constitutions. It is a disease of the 
mucous membrane of the nasal and respiratory pas- 
sages, sometimes involving the eye ball. 

Catarrhal inflammation almost always exists and the lachrymal 
glands are so affected that there is a continual watering of the eye. 
Well-marked asthmatic attacks and deep depression usually accom- 
pany hay fever. 



12 



176 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is due to the pollen of grains and grasses, dusts, odors, per- 
fumes and irritating substances acting upon the hypersensitive 
membrane of the nose. It is also attributed to the existence of 
microbes in the air. 

The real cause of asthma is not fully known. It is 
Asthma ascribed to heredity, colds, nasal catarrh, gout, the pollen 
of plants and other atmospheric impurities. 

It is undoubtedly a nerve disease, which causes a spasm of the 
muscular tissue of the bronchial tubes, attributed either to center or 
peripheral nervous irritation. It is sometimes dependent upon dis- 
ease of the heart, kidneys, stomach and thymus. 

Asthma is little affected by local treatments. The cause of the 
difficulty must first be ascertained. 

Those who are addicted to hay fever and asthma should attend 
carefully, during the winter, spring and summer, to thoroughly 
strengthening the nerves and mucous lining of the nasal passages 
and the naso-pharynx. Before the air is filled with pollen in the fall 
the entire nervous system should be built up; it is by attending 
to these hygienic conditions, alone, that the tendency to hay fever or 
asthma is corrected. 

Exercises to free and strengthen the spinal nerves and the 
muscles controlling the nasal passages and bronchial tubes, breathing 
exercises, with mental concentration to stimulate controlling nerves, 
and massage of the nose, throat and spine are valuable agencies in 
the relief of asthma. The use of a salt water nasal douche is also 
helpful. 

Most diseases of the nose originate in a cold, which 

Catarrh being allowed to run, causes congestion, inflammation and 

unnatural secretions in the mucous membrane of the cav- 



THE NOSE 177 

ities of the nasal passages, the naso-pharynx and the Eustachian 
tubes, extending from the throat to the ears. 

If the recuperative powers be strong, so that nature can throw 
off the cold, no serious results ensue ; but if the system be run down 
and the vitality low, or, if the colds be frequent, each new one leaves 
more and more inflammation, with a resultant thickening of the 
mucous membrane, and enlargement of glands. This eventually 
means chronic catarrh of the nasal passages.* 

Unless the corpuscles of the blood are freely renewed and the 
blood thoroughly nourished and kept circulating freely, the inflam- 
mation in the cavities of the nose progresses and the unhealthy secre- 
tions are absorbed; some are inhaled into the lungs, and some car- 
ried down into the stomach, causing indigestion and fermentation, 
until the stomach, bowels, kidneys and bladder may become affected ; 
in fact, the whole system may in time be filled with catarrh. 

If the inflammation progresses into the tubes to the ears, as it 
is apt to do, the mucous lining of the nose being continuous through 
the naso-pharynx and Eustachian tubes with the lining of the ear, 
catarrhal deafness may result. 

Catarrh can be cured, if the correct principles of hygienic living 
be followed conscientiously for a number of months, in the way of 
exercise, diet, breathing and bathing. The difficulty is that the major- 
ity of people will not be persistent for a long enough period. 

It must be remembered that catarrh is an inflammation in the 
mucous lining, thus the relief must lie in relieving the inflammation 
and establishing a thorough circulation of good blood. This results 
in toning up the nerves of the entire system. 

* This subject of catarrh will be more definitely understood if the reader will study the chapter 
on "The Ears." 



178 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The illustration on page 171 shows the cavities of the nose, with 
the turbinated bones and lining membranes of the nose, the naso- 
pharynx and the opening of the tube to the ear. This tube is further 
shown in the lesson upon ' ' The Ears. ' ' The manner in which catarrh 
of the nose and throat affects the ears is fully shown in this chapter. 
Dry catarrh is the last stage of all catarrhal in- 
Dry Catarrh flammation; the secretions dry up, and the inflamma- 
tion burns up the mucous membranes. This causes 
ulcers and dry scabs to form. Proper breathing does much to 
prevent and relieve the trouble. Nasal massage and exercises, which 
cause flexibility, stimulate the flow of nourishing blood and eliminate 
the mucus through the Eustachian tubes and throat. (See lesson 
upon "The Ears.") 

Polypus tumors, or growths, found in the mucous mem- 
Polypus brane of the nose, are a source of frequent trouble. Most 
polypi are not true tumors, but inflammatory deposits. 
Chronic catarrh will cause such deposits, also a swelling of the 
turbinated bones. This will oftentimes cause ulcers, granulation and 
proud flesh to form and in a few months polypus tumors develop. 
If they are large and fibrous they should be removed by surgery. 
This can be done without danger. Small ones can often be cured 
through absorption by good blood and proper breathing. 

Adenoids resemble glands in their formation. An 

Adenoids adenoid growth is an over-nourishment of the adenoid 

tissue in the naso-pharynx,— the arching space between 

the rear passage of the nose and the lower margin of the soft palate. 

(See page 171.) 

The following characteristics accompany adenoid formations: 
vacant expression of face, pinched nose and mouth, open mouth, 



THE NOSE 179 

noisy breathing when asleep, snoring, frequent colds, a narrow, high 
arched, hard palate (the roof of the mouth) and sometimes defective 
hearing. A narrow palate causes narrowness of the upper jaw and 
a consequent crowding and irregularity of the teeth. Adenoids will 
produce a hacking cough, enlarged tonsils and a peculiar muffling 
of the voice. They are met with in all classes in life and in all 
climates. As they are most prevalent among children, and affect the 
physical and mental development, detrimentally, they should be care- 
fully looked after. 

Treatment consists in early surgical removal of the growth. 

If adenoids are removed when the child is small, these after 
effects may be avoided, and the health of the child greatly benefited. 
Early treatment will save much expense and worry. 

The physical examination of hundreds of school children, devel- 
ops the fact that two-thirds of them have adenoid growths, and eye 
weakness of some nature. It has also been demonstrated that upon 
removing the adenoids, the child improved in mental activity and 
brightness, as well as in physical soundness. 

This form of eczema is often associated with 
Eczema of 
the Nostrils e " romc nasal catarrh. The nose will often be swollen 

and the nostrils almost closed with the crust forma- 
tions. Many times they become inflamed and cracked. If proper 
measures are taken the difficulty may be confined closely to the wings 
of the nose. 

Eczema of the hair follicles in the nostrils is not uncommon 
among adults, and is very persistent and painful. 

The general health and vitality should be built up, as difficulties 
of this character indicate general debility. Breathing exercises, to 



180 BEAUTY A DUTY 

strengthen and tone the nerves should be practiced, also exercises 
to promote a good circulation and strength of all vital organs. 

Cod liver oil taken internally is excellent for children whose 
nostrils have become affected; also the syrup of iodide of iron. 

External treatment requires that the crusts be removed by rub- 
bing in oil, followed by the application of a soothing and mildly 
astringent ointment, such as 1 drachm of Squire's giycerole of sub- 
acetate of lead, combined with 1 ounce of cold cream. 

An astringent ointment may be made of 5 to 20 grains of boric 
acid to 1 oz. of white precipitate of calomel. 

Severe cases of eczema have often yielded to treatment, after 
the removal of adenoid growths. 

One of the most distressing afflictions is a red nose, 
Red Nose and it is hard to overcome. It may be caused by tight 
lacing, some reflex irritation of stomach, bowels or pelvic 
organs, or it may be due to Acne rosacea.* The latter is a chronic 
inflammatory affection of the skin, which usually attacks the nose, 
cheeks, forehead and chin. In the co mm encement of the disease there 
is redness, which, in time, becomes permanent. In this stage, it is 
associated with the development of pustules, and varicose vessels. 
In the latest stages there is an excessive formation of new tissue. 



'Acne rosacea is discussed more fully under the chapter upon "The Skin." 



Chapter V 
THE MOUTH 



The mouth plays a very important part in the expression of the 
face and the muscles controlling it can be moulded by habit as can 
those of the rest of the body. Habits of amiability and contentment 
give the mouth its greatest charm. 

It is one of the features which strongly displays the will-power. 
Many, otherwise attractive, change the whole character of their faces 
by the contour, or poise, of the muscles about the mouth. 

By controlling the sphincter muscle of the mouth the lips may 
be made to appear thin or thick, and relaxation or firmness expressed. 

There is an intricate network of little nerves and muscles around 
the mouth and when these have been stretched tightly for a few years, 
they become set and remain in that tense condition, so that eventually 
the tissues under the skin take on the same contour, with the woeful 
result that a long, ugly line extending from the wings of the nose 
down around the mouth on each side will become a permanent 
feature. 

Upon the character of words and thoughts, depends the lip poise 
and mouth expression; but unless the tissues be kept flexible and 
free that they may be delicately susceptible to the change of thought, 

181 



182 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the mouth may become hard and stern and the lines of expression 
may deepen into wrinkles. 

One's thoughts are the expression of character, while in turn 
the character instigates the thought. 

The lines, which give the mouth its expression, speak the record 
of one's years, for they are the result of all the words, and most of 
the thoughts, whether sweet or otherwise, which have been framed 
by the lips in the past. Each word leaves its impress, and the more 
often a thought is held, the deeper the impression, until it becomes 
a habit. Truly the lips speak without moving. 

It is the habit of the silent hour which tells most. One's 
thoughts, when alone, are more systematic and make a deeper 
impress; therefore, let us form the habit of being cheerful, whole- 
some company for ourselves,— of thinking kindly, generous thoughts 
when alone, if we would give the mouth a pleasing expression, and 
radiate kindness and sweetness around us. The mouth and the eyes 
speak with a "thousand tongues" while the voice is silent. 

The accompanying illustrations are given to show how much of 
the habitual thought may be read through the mouth alone. The 
home atmosphere, even, may be read through each mouth shown;— 
providing the individual be the controlling thought in the home. 
This is especially true, when studied in connection with the eyes and 
nose, illustrated in the lessons upon these features. It will be an 
interesting study for the reader to fit the mouths of Figures 2, 4, 
5, 6, 11, 13, 16, and 17 with the eyes illustrated under the lesson upon 
"The Eyes." 

A sweet, lovable nature is expressed by soft, tender lines about 
the mouth and chin (see Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 13, 14 and 16) ; while a 



1 


6 


12 


2 


7 


13 


3 


8 


Bf 




9 


1 4 


4 


IJ 

10 



15 


5 


JL» fl 


16 



THE MOUTH 183 

domineering, ugly disposition is indicated by a heavy, set jaw, with 
all of the features showing dogged, heavy lines. (See Fig. 11.) 

A definite character is expressed by a firm mouth, which, how- 
ever, is not at all unpleasant if the lips are not too tightly drawn. 
(See Figures 6, 13 and 16.) 

What is there about the definiteness of Fig. 1, which suggests 
selfishness? or about Figs. 2 and 7, which suggest amiability, but 
rather emotional weakness, allowing the individual to be, perhaps, 
too easily influenced to following another's judgment rather than 
her own? 

The mouths of Figs. 3 and 12 belong to young girls, who have 
somehow started out with the idea that life is against them. Ah! 
that some great soul would turn their thoughts to see things from a 
different point of view,— to make them realize that life is what we 
make it— that we are here to sweetly, happily develop in usefulness 
to others, instead of to array ourselves for battle, regarding each 
incident in life as an enemy to be baffled. 

What mental weakness— almost imbecility— is expressed by Fig. 
4 ; and what a disagreeable, grouchy, selfish nature is shown in Fig. 5 ; 
while Fig. 15 shows dogged, brutal determination, and Fig. 17 arro- 
gance and supercilious pride. 

A woman who is habitually querulous, or given to continual 
pouting, or to compressing her lips tightly, as if in grim determina- 
tion, or one who is given to exhibitions of self-will and ill temper, 
cannot easily command a smile. It would be hard for Figs. 3, 5 and 
11 to smile. The lines would soon resume rigidity. Their mental 
attitudes need warming by love and sunshine ; they need to relax and 
let the sunshine in— to see life from a different point of view— to 



184 BEAUTY A DUTY 

read good books— to work from the light within, rather than be 
cowed by the forces without. 

If we greet life with a smile, we meet a smile in response. If 
we meet frowns, it behooves us to look within; a radiant smile will 
dispel the most lowering expression. It may be raining without, 
yet, still be warm and cozy within ; storms may gather in the atmos- 
phere about one, but sunshine in the soul will dispel them. 

This sunshine and life within, reflected in the light without, are 

well expressed in Lowell's sonnet upon "True Nobleness": 

"For this true nobleness I seek in vain, 

In woman and in man I find it not, 

I almost weary of my earthly lot, 

My life springs are dried up with burning pain. 

Thou findst it not? I pray thee look again, 

Look inward thro ' the depths of thine own soul. 

How is it with thee? Art thou sound and whole? 

Doth narrow search show thee no earthly strain? 

Be noble! and the nobleness that lies 

In other men, sleeping, but never dead, 

Will rise in majesty to meet thine own; 

Then wilt thou see it gleam in many eyes, 

Then will pure light around thy path be shed, 

And thou wilt never more be sad and lone. 



We were not meant to struggle from our birth, 
To skulk and creep, and in mean pathways range; 
Act ! With stern truth, large faith, and loving will ! 
Up and be doing ! God is with us still. ' ' 

A smiling face adds much to the sunshine of the world. If you 
force a smile to your face, even though you do not always feel like 
it, you will have the consolation of knowing you are relaxing the 
muscles about the mouth and helping to establish a good habit ; there 
is sure to be a reflex effect upon the brain and, if by force of will, you 
will turn your thoughts to helpfulness and cheer, you will feel like 



THE MOUTH 185 

smiling.— Others, too, will reflect the smile and pass it along. 
Remember that the mouth should express what the lips would say. 
As you study others, observe also your own mouth and if it does 
not express sweetness, cheer and helpfulness, guard well your 
thoughts and see that they are wholesome, kindly and cheerful, for 
"Out of the fullness of the heart the lips speaketh." Remember 
that sweet and beautiful thoughts, as well as depressing and dis- 
agreeable ones, impres.3 themselves indelibly upon the lips.* 

Mouth wrinkles are due, either to general depression, ill health 
or missing teeth. The latter will cause a depression in the cheeks 
by the shrinking of the gums and lack of natural support for the 
cheeks. 

If, therefore, teeth are removed for any cause, the space should, 
as soon as possible, be filled by false ones. 

Crowded teeth will create an abnormal size and irregular con- 
tour of the lips. Do not let such a condition exist for any length of 
time, as in most cases it can be corrected by the dentist. 

There are other erroneous habits that tend to spoil the shape 
of the mouth, all of which can be overcome. Breathing through the 
mouth, or sleeping with it open, will give an unpleasant expression, 
besides injuriously affecting the throat, lungs and, perhaps, the teeth. 

The habit of moistening the lips frequently by passing the 
tongue over them is apt to make them large ; this habit is obnoxious 
to others,— it is a frequent cause of chapping. 

Watch the mouths of others and note the variety of expressions 
of character, also note how many have formed habits of unnecessary 
movements of the lips. One holds an umbrella in a storm and the 

Control of facial muscles by the thought is fully disrussed in my book "The Reading of Char- 
acter through Bodily Expression." 



186 BEAUTY A DUTY 

face and lips are held with sufficient tension to stem the breeze— 
Ah ! how much energy we waste ! How much we need to form habits 
of conservation,— of repose,— that we may have more dynamic 
reserve power for the greater duties of life. 

Some draw the lips in tensely after each expression, some purse 
them forward, others draw them to one side, while others permit the 
outer corners to droop. The latter is a very common defect and is 
undoubtedly the result of depression, or of a nature which takes 
things too seriously. 

Some form the habit of constantly distorting the mouth when 
talking; with some the lower jaw is allowed to drop, leaving the 
mouth partly open, giving the face an expression of utter lack of 
intelligence; or the lips are tightly compressed, giving the face a 
determined, hard, set look. 

Study your mouth in the mirror and note whether its expression 
pleases. If not, then devote a few minutes each day before your 
mirror to holding some pleasing, helpful, elevating thoughts and note 
the position the lips take. 

If you have been too tense, or discouraged, or despondent, you 
will note that the corners of the mouth droop. Do not allow these 
corners to sag when the face is in repose. This is apt to draw the 
upper lip tense and to emphasize the lower one. In smiling, or in an 
amiable expression, you will note that the corners of the mouth raise 
slightly. 

On the flexibility of the lips depends, to a great extent, the pos- 
sible beauty of the mouth. Careful attention should be given to the 
following exercises, so that the muscles about the lips may be free 
and flexible and ideal lines be more readily established. If your 



THE MOUTH 187 

mouth is inclined to droop at the corners, as in Figs. 3, 5, 11 or 12, 
try raising the corners as in Fig. 6 and note the change in mental 
poise. 

Keep the muscles of the cheeks exercised, as directed under 
"Facial Exercises," and those about the mouth flexible by the move- 
ments below. 

After a little study along this line, you will soon reach the point 
where you can relax the lips at will, and, by directing the thought, 
you can make the mouth assume a pleasing expression without the 
mirror. 

Do you say all this tends to affectation? Far be it from my 
intention to suggest the stereotype, set smile. It will not be affected 
nor set if the thoughts be directed to kindly, helpful, hopeful themes. 
Your lips, if first relaxed, will respond naturally to your thoughts. 
If you have no one in your immediate circle to help to lift your 
thoughts to broad usefulness,— to expansion,— to progress,— you will 
always find good books written by whole-souled men and women 
whose purpose in life is to uplift to happiness and whole-souled use- 
fulness. 



In the foregoing pages, I have pointed out the causes of unbeau- 
tiful mouths. Let us now look to material steps for a correction of 
the defects. Remember that muscles are susceptible to training. 
After they have been drawn into a certain position a number of times, 
they incline to that position more and more easily, and presently 
become settled in it. Take encouragement from the fact that 



188 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the wrinkle, or the ugly mouth habit was formed by training,— 
unconsciously, on your part, perhaps,— and that it can be corrected 
by conscious training, in accordance with definite rules. 

. Exercise 1. A simple exercise for developing 
For Flexibility flexibility of the lips and associated muscles, consists 
in enunciating the vowel sounds Ah-Oh ten times; 
then Ah-Oh-EE ten times ; then Ah-Oh-EE-00 ten times. 

Exercise 2. Setting the lower jaw firmly, gives a stern, unin- 
viting expression to the countenance. The following exercise will 
relax the jaw: 

Let the lower jaw drop loosely ; then shake the head rapidly from 
side to side. The jaw should be so loose and limp that it will move 
when the head is shaken. Don't be surprised if you find that it will 
be necessary to make several attempts before you get the jaw 
loosened, so that it will respond to the shaking of the head. Per- 
severe,— the more tense it is, the more need for overcoming the con- 
dition. The muscles around the mouth may ache after a few minutes, 
due to the fact that they have been held so tense for so long a time 
that, when loosened, they require stretching in order to restore them 
to normal position. Is it any wonder that lines form under such 
conditions ? 

Purse the lips outward slightly ; then bring them 
Thick Lios back, drawing the corners of the mouth well in as you 
draw the lips tightly and firmly over the gums until 
the edges of the lips meet ; hold tightly in this position for the length 
of five counts, then allow the mouth to relax into a smile. Repeat 
the pursing and drawing inward twenty times, relaxing into a smile 
after each repetition. 



THE MOUTH 189 

Thin lips may be made slightly fuller by pursing 
For Thin Lips them forward as if for a kiss, drawing them 
tight together and suddenly relaxing, making the 
movement and sound of a kiss with a good "smack"; follow this by 
complete relaxation and by carefully turning the edges of the lips 
over with your finger. Watch yourself to see that you do not habit- 
ually hold your mouth too tightly closed. Keep the lips in a free, 
easy position when the face is in repose. 

Many women and girls suffer with chronic 
Chapped Lips chapped lips. The cause must be ascertained and 
removed in order to affect a permanent cure. They 
come from undue exposure to cold or wind and are usually associated 
with a disordered condition of the stomach, a dry and undernourished 
skin, poor blood and poor circulation;— or they may be the result of 
the very unpleasant habit I have already mentioned, of moistening 
the lips with the tongue. 

The application of cold cream, glycerine or white vaseline will 
afford temporary relief and should be used freely at night before 
retiring, but the physical defects must be corrected, else the lips will 
continue to chap. 

If they become parched, dry or cracked, the physical condition 
must be looked into, for there is an apparent gastric weakness, lack 
of good nourishing blood and an imperfect circulation. For tem- 
porary relief, use a healing ointment, such as Eesinol salve, glycerine, 
white vaseline, almond oil, mutton tallow or a good cold cream. 

A very healing ointment can be made of equal parts of almond 
oil, vaseline and mutton tallow. Apply freely to the lips at night. 
If the lips are thin rub it in thoroughly and then wipe off any surplus 



190 BEAUTY A DUTY 

with a soft cloth. If the lips are thick, they should not be rubbed. 

Another good lotion for dry or cracked lips can be made of: 

2 oz. of almond oil, % oz. spermaceti, 1-12 dram of oil of bitter 

almonds and y 8 dram oil of geranium. Mix well and apply at night. 

Purple lips indicate poor circulation and sometimes 

titiA T • a weak heart. White lips show anaemic blood, weak 
White Lips ^ ' 

digestion, poor circulation and sometimes weak heart 
action. To improve the color of the lips, the whole system should 
be toned and the blood built up. 

Biting the lips to make them red, thickens and dries them and 
eventually causes them to lose their delicate curves. 

Cold sores are caused by stomach disorders or 
F Bl' t ky colds. They appear usually on the lips, at the 

angles of the mouth, and on the face below the 
mouth, in the form of one or more pimples. They come out sud- 
denly, and are usually preceded by an aching, burning, tingling or 
itching sensation. The diet has evidently been wrong, therefore 
should be regulated, and exercises to strengthen the stomach and 
intestines should be practised that they may perform their normal 
work. 

Fever blisters are symptomatic of a disordered condition of the 
gastro-intestinal organs and usually make their appearance with an 
accompanying chill or increase of temperature. Immediate measures 
should be taken for strengthening the stomach and relieving the 
sluggishness of the bowels ; the diet must also be regulated, as in the 
case of cold sores. 

Temporary relief from cold or fever blisters, is furnished by the 
use of camphor, or a powder made of equal parts of boracic acid and 



THE MOUTH 191 

camphor. Either of these applied to the sores freely every hour, as 
soon as they make their appearance, will dry them up and sometimes 
prevent them from fully forming. This will not correct the cause, 
however. 

Boracic acid and peroxide of hydrogen can also be used in the 
same way. "Camphor Ice," sold by druggists, is also effective. 

There is little or no excuse for a bad breath. If 
Bad Breath one is healthy, the breath should be almost odorless. 
It is unfortunate that a person afflicted with a bad 
breath does not always know it. His or her friends hesitate to speak 
of the matter, yet surely it would be an act of kindness to do so. 
Many of us doubtless know sweet and lovable people, whom it is a 
punishment to be near, because of the impurity of their breath. 
Would it not be kind to tell them, that others may not withdraw from 
them with the same shrinking? It is an indication of a physical 
unwholesomeness, which is almost unpardonable in these days of 
enlightenment in the normal cleanliness and strength of the body 
within as well as without. 

A bad breath is caused by various conditions, such as catarrh 
of the nose or throat, intestinal or gastric indigestion, constipation, 
sluggish liver, occasioned by sedentary habits or overwork, or to 
decayed or tartared teeth. The habit of bolting the food, or mental 
disturbance after eating, will strongly affect the breath, by prevent- 
ing digestion and interfering with the normal elimination of waste 
through intestines and kidneys, thereby throwing extra work upon 
the lungs, causing each breath to be laden with a foul odor. 

Chronic constipation gives evidence of decomposed organic mat- 
ter through the breath. No woman should allow a constipated con- 



192 BEAUTY A DUTY 

dition to continue for a day, any more than she would allow a drain 
in her home to remain stopped up. It must be remembered that 
cathartics do not correct constipation,— they simply relieve it for the 
time.* The real correction lies in exercises to strengthen the nerves 
and muscles of the intestines, that the peristaltic movements may 
be strengthened and the intestines encouraged to perform their func- 
tions in a more normal manner, also in intelligent attention to diet, 
fresh air and deep breathing. 

Torpid liver, also, affects the breath, through the intestines and 
the stomach. 

Acute catarrhal trouble will cause such foul breath as to poison 
the atmosphere of a room. 

It is, of course, evident that the whole physical condition needs 
correcting if the breath is to be made .sweet and pure. 

One should never inhale another's breath, as contagious diseases 
are often propagated in this way. For this reason the kiss is better 
given upon the cheek than the lip. 

Good strong breathing exercises that reach all of the air pas- 
sages and cells of the lungs, together with exercises for strength- 
ening the muscles and nerves of stomach, liver and intestines, keep- 
ing them wholesome and free, also attention to diet and circulation 
will do much to overcome a bad breath. 

Eczema of the lips causes them to become hot and 
the L' s often very much thickened by swelling and inflamma- 

tion, accompanied by a severe itching. 

The general health must be immediately looked after and sooth- 
ing applications used. 

For complete discussion of the cause and relief of constipation see the author's book "The Vital 
Organs, Their Use and Abuse." 



THE MOUTH 193 

Any deformity of the lip, such as hare-lip, should 
Deform't'es recerve surgical attention during the early life of the 
child. Surgeons are very successful in correcting such 
defects and it is a crime on the part of parents to neglect them. 

The teeth of growing children should be watched most carefully. 
If they be uneven, so as to cause the lips to protrude at one point or 
contract at another, causing an entire change in the facial expres- 
sion, they should be attended to by the dentist. A mother cannot 
watch these things too carefully. Give the child the heritage of a 
perfect physical body that the beautiful thoughts of after life may 
have untrammeled expression. 

The Teeth 

White and well-kept teeth will redeem an otherwise plain face, 
while neglected, discolored or misshapen ones will mar the most 
beautiful countenance — will distort the most radiant smile. 

Unless the teeth are even and well cared for, the beauty of the 
mouth is greatly lessened. The habitual neglect of the teeth, together 
with the resultant bad breath, renders an otherwise pleasing person- 
ality, repulsive to those of cleanly tastes and habits. 

Children should be trained at an early age to use the tooth brush, 
and cavities appearing in their temporary teeth should receive 
prompt attention. 

The teeth should be examined at least twice a year, by a reliable 
dentist. If there is a tendency toward the accumulation of tartar, 
and if ordinary brushing and care do not remove it, the teeth should 
be thoroughly cleaned by the dentist. 

When the child is between five and seven years of age, any irreg- 
ularities or imperfections of his teeth should be corrected. 



194 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The teeth are simply papillae, or conic eminences 

th T th °^ ^ e mucous membrane of the gum, which have 

passed through characteristic development. 

They consist of three portions : the crown or body, which projects 

above the gum ; the root or fang, which extends below the gum ; the 

neck or constricted portion between the crown and root. 

In structure, a tooth consists of enamel, dentine and pulp. The 
hard enamel encases the crown of the tooth; the dentine constitutes 
the interior of the crown and the whole of the root, while the pulp, 
which is a soft tissue filling the cavity of the crown, is traversed by 
blood vessels and nerve filaments. 

The enamel is the hardest substance in the body. It consists of 
hexagonal flattened prisms, arranged side by side like a palisade. 

The modern dentist, by means of bands of 

_, TT T . rubber or metal, can straighten uneven teeth 

Cause Uneven Lips ' ° 

and can file them even, so that no woman need 
have an otherwise pleasing mouth disfigured. 

It is difficult to give thorough care to teeth that are crowded. 
This condition is sometimes the result of inherited tendencies, or of 
the teeth being too large in proportion to the length of the jaws, con- 
sequently they are forced out of line and crowded against each other. 
This defect is sometimes caused by the habit of mouth breathing, a 
practice that usually follows obstruction of the nasal passage, 
through excessive development of the adenoid tissue in the vault of 
the pharynx, which causes a narrowing of the hard palate and of 
the maxillary arch, to such an extent that the line of the upper 
incisor teeth projects beyond the line of the lower ones. In such 
cases, the lower jaw is apt to recede, thereby disturbing the sym- 
metry of the whole face. 



THE MOUTH 195 

In the case of children, should the teeth of the upper jaw decay 
before those of the lower one, they should not be extracted, but filled, 
for if they are removed any length of time before the permanent 
teeth appear, the upper jaw is likely to develop faster than the lower, 
or vice versa,— hence the projecting teeth, so disfiguring. 

Thumb sucking in childhood often leads to an uneven develop- 
ment of lips and jaw, therefore the habit should be broken before 
permanent disfigurement results. 

One should not masticate more on one side of the mouth than 
on the other, or the molars may be exercised and worn unevenly, and 
even the shape of the lower face may be changed by masticating the 
food on one side only. 

When teeth have been extracted the gums 
Receding Gums recede, changing the contour of the cheeks, by 
allowing them to sink and the muscles of the lower 
face to sag, thus drawing down the corners of the mouth. This 
creates an expression of discouragement and depression, greatly 
detracting from the intelligence of the face. 

A catarrhal condition about the gums leads to their recession. 
Bacteria are largely the cause of this, and the condition is aggravated 
by acid foods, by accumulated tartar, or by careless use of the tooth- 
brush. 

When the gums recede, or are soft and spongy, a mouth and 
tooth wash, containing myrrh, has a tendency to harden them. 

Common salt, occasionally used in the mouth wash, keeps the 
gums hardened and healthy. 

Precipitated chalk forms the basis of almost all tooth powders; 
it relieves the sensitiveness of the margins of the gums, and niaj" be 
rubbed on the latter, especially after eating anything acid. 



196 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Tartar, which is so commonly deposited, usually on the 
Tartar inside of the teeth and which is most disfiguring and injuri- 
ous to the teeth and gums, consists of carbonated lime and 
other inorganic matter. According to general belief, micro-organ- 
isms also enter into its formation, 

However, teeth are attacked and cavities formed, without the 
development of tartar. All that seems necessary in this work of 
destruction is for the germ to lodge in some protected place, beyond 
the reach of the tooth-brush, or other cleansing means. 

When the teeth have become yellow or discolored, a little pow- 
dered pumice stone may be rubbed upon them to polish and cleanse. 
Rub carefully over the surface of the teeth, wherever there are spots 
or discolorations, then rub gently around the edges of the gums, 
where the teeth and the gums meet, to remove any tartar that may 
have collected. 

Gritty tooth powders and all hard substances that scratch or 
break the enamel, should be avoided. 

Inflammation of the bone, resulting in a weakness of 

Cavities the tooth structure, and bacteria, resulting from neglect in 

cleansing the teeth, are responsible for dental cavities. 

The old theory, that teeth are injuriously affected by the action of 

certain acids in the stomach, is losing credence. 

Fragments of food allowed to collect and remain between and 
around the base of the teeth, together with the secretions of the sali- 
vary glands, which find lodgment between and around the teeth, 
afford ample opportunity for the growth and development of bac- 
teria. Fermented food about the teeth forms a sufficiently nourish- 
ing soil in which the bacteria may develop 



THE MOUTH 197 

One authority advances the belief that cavities are the result of 
lactic acid, produced by the growth of certain bacteria about the 
teeth. He bases his opinion upon the fact that he found more than 
one hundred varieties of micro-organisms that grew in the mouth or 
about the teeth. There is a doubt, however, as to lactic or other 
acids playing any special part in the process. 

It is undoubtedly safe to assume that dental decay is attributable 
to bacteria, and that the diet, as long as it is nutritious, has no influ- 
ence whatever upon it. This latest accepted theory emphasizes the 
importance of keeping the teeth perfectly free from all particles of 
food or organic matter, that the bacteria may have no fertile field 
in which to develop. 

The teeth should be brushed at least twice a day. Many den- 
tist's bills will thereby be saved. 

Acids, or medicines containing chloride or sulphate of iron, 
should never be allowed to touch the teetb, as thoy would very soon 
destroy the enamel. Anything of this nature should be taken through 
a glass or straw tube. 

Habitual breathing through the mouth, encourages the introduc- 
tion of a certain amount of organic matter about the teeth which 
may be laden with bacteria and their destruction. Mouth breathing 
also causes tonsil and throat troubles. 

It often happens that the members of some families, through 
several generations, have soft teeth, apparently due to some con- 
genital disturbance in the nutrition of the bone structure. Inherited 
tendencies of this character can be overcome to a very great extent 
by building up the general health and increasing the blood supply 
and the circulation. In such cases much more care is necessary to 
prevent the development of cavities. 



198 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Proper diet has much to do with the condition of the teeth, 

Diet because it builds good blood for their nutrition. In fact, it 

has been estimated that three-fourths of the teeth difficulties 

could be avoided, if a sensible and wholesome diet were adhered to, 

and coarse breads and cereals substituted for the finer sorts. 

The teeth will be developed properly in childhood if the body 
is supplied with a sufficient amount of food rich in salts, such as 
beans, peas, graham bread or coarse cereals. 

The use of the teeth, as well as the use of any muscle or mem- 
brane, strengthens them. Observation has established the fact that 
the teeth least called upon for mastication, are often the most delicate. 
This is one argument for the use of coarse foods. Eating hard tack 
or hard oatmeal crackers is excellent exercise for the teeth, helping 
to keep them strong and healthy. The crackers should be eaten dry 
and masticated until soft. These are especially good for growing 
children. 

The teeth are for the purpose of masticating the 

~. „. food thoroughly before it is taken into the stomach. 

Digestion ° •' 

And when they are neglected and allowed to decay, the 
food enters the stomach in too large pieces; it is not thoroughly 
mixed with saliva, and the effect is felt throughout the entire 
digestive tract. 

If the teeth are not in good condition, the food is swallowed 
without being sufficiently masticated, causing indigestion and many 
other stomach ills, which frequently become chronic. 

It is of the utmost importance that decayed teeth be filled just 
as soon as a cavity develops, and in case there are many missing 
teeth, they should be replaced 6y artificial ones. 



THE MOUTH 199 

The question of the preservation of the teeth, resolves itself 
into a few simple principles, viz. : 

the prevention of overcrowding; 

the avoidance of chemical or mechanical injury to the teeth and 
gums; 

the careful and frequent cleansing of all exposed surfaces of the 
teeth ; 

and the use of such harmless antiseptics as will prevent the con- 
tinuance of bacteria in the mouth. 

Unless the teeth are brushed in the proper man- 
f th T th ner ' man ^ °f them do not receive the cleansing nec- 
essary, more especially those on the right side, as it 
is easier to reach the teeth on the left. Brush from the gum to the 
end of the teeth rather than across them, so that all particles may 
more easily be reached and dislodged. 

With the advantages which modern dentistry has brought within 
reach of every one, there is no excuse for poor teeth, but even though 
the dentist may supply all his profession can give, the teeth will 
not remain clean and free from disease and decay, unless properly 
cared for each day. 

It is a good rule to establish the habit of brushing the teeth 
thoroughly after eating, even if it is several times a day. By so 
doing, the food which ordinarily collects in the little spaces between 
the teeth, cannot accumulate and cause fermentation and decay. 

When brushing the teeth be sure and reach the inside as well 
as the outside, not neglecting the flat crowns of the back teeth, or the 
sides of the wisdom teeth. The latter often show decay sooner and 
receive less attention than the teeth nearer the front. The tooth 



200 BEAUTY A DUTY 

brush, if used rightly, will stimulate circulation through the gums 
and avoid disagreeable diseases, especially receding gums. 

It is also well to occasionally massage the gums with the bare 
fingers. 

In selecting a tooth brush, see that the bristles are neither too 
soft nor too stiff. A medium stiff brush is best. 

Before cleansing the teeth in the morning wash the tongue off 
gently with a soft cloth or tooth brush. This removes the impurities 
which sometimes collect on the tongue through the night. To correct 
a chronically "coated tongue," however, an activity of the vital 
organs must be established and a thorough circulation of blood 
brought to them, so that the impurities will be eliminated through 
the proper channels. 

An effective mouth- wash can be made from 7y 2 grains of thymol, 
15 grains borax and one pint of water. Binse the mouth with this 
after cleansing the teeth. 

A good antiseptic to help preserve the teeth to keep the breath 
sweet and the teeth white, is peroxide of hydrogen. 

Diluted alcohol is another refreshing antiseptic. Binse the 
mouth thoroughly each morning with either of the above solutions. 

A tablespoonful of lime water in a glass of milk or water, taken 
occasionally, will add to the strength of the teeth. 

If you have a regular dentist who understands the character of 
your teeth, he can decide best what dentifrice will be best for you, but 
the following is a good formula : 

Equal parts of precipitated chalk and powdered orris root, with 
a little flavoring essence added, such as wintergreen, sarsaparilla or 
cinnamon. 



THE MOUTH 201 

When a tooth pick is required, use it unobtrusively and give 
preference to a quill tooth pick or a soft orange-wood stick. 

The free use of dental floss between the teeth will help to keep 
them free from particles of food and prevent the little cavities which 
so often form in out-of-the-way places. 

Do not have a tooth extracted except as a very last 
False Teeth resort. If there is nothing but a root left, remember 
that if it is in healthy condition, a crown of porcelain 
or gold can be built upon it with far more satisfactory results than 
a w T hole false tooth will give. A tooth once out can never be replaced 
in the gum, but the crown of it, if in perfect condition, can have a 
little skeleton of gold wire attached to it, by means of which it can be 
clamped to the tooth on either side. 

Inlays are now used more than gold and are certainly less con- 
spicuous. 

Pyorrhea, more commonly called Riggs Disease, 

Pyorrhea has by many been considered incurable. Of late years, 

however, dentists have demonstrated that it is curable. 

Pyorrhea means inflammation of the gums. This inflammation 
may be caused by an irritation of the gums by calcareous deposits 
about their edges or by a systemic condition. While a few dentists 
claim that pyorrhea is caused by a germ, a larger number of them 
believe that it is not, the latter holding that an irritated condition of 
the gums is apt to make good breeding places for germs and that 
germs are thus the accompaniment, but not the cause, of this disease. 

The treatment consists in allaying the irritation. This is done 
by correcting the condition of the blood, by removing the calcareous 
deposits about the gums, and by regularly massaging the gmns them- 



202 BEAUTY A DUTY 

selves, so as to create and maintain a good circulation through them. 

Any inflammation of the gums should have prompt treatment. 
If it is neglected, pus may form at the roots of the teeth and infec- 
tion result. In extreme cases the teeth become loosened from the 
roots and eventually fall out. 

Remember that almost all cases of this disease can be cured. 
The important thing to do is to consult a good dentist when you find 
inflammation beginning about the gums. 

The best preventive of pyorrhea is absolute cleanliness, and a 
good circulation through the gums. 

The gums should be massaged regularly, just as regularly as any 
other part of the body should be exercised. 

The best time to massage the gums is during the process of 
cleaning the teeth. Place the tooth brush with the bristles at the 
base of the gum, the side of the brush against the teeth. Then firmly 
pressing the brush against the gum, turn the handle of the brush in 
such a way that the back moves outward. The bristles work between 
the teeth as the brush rotates. The pressure of the gum upward 
toward the teeth massages them, creating a good circulation about 
the roots of the teeth. Massage the gums on both sides of the teeth 
in the same way. 

If the gums bleed in this process, never mind. They will not 
bleed after you have massaged them for a little time and relieved all 
the congestion about them. 

With the gums, as with the rest of the body, exercise which pro- 
motes a good circulation of blood is the most important agency in the 
prevention of diseases. 

The seeping of the acids which collect about the gums in case of 



THE MOUTH 203 

pyorrhea is now asserted to be an aggravating cause of rheumatism. 
If one is afflicted with rheumatism, he should see to it that there are 
no pus sacs at the roots of the teeth; also that the tonsils are in good 
condition, because it has been discovered that many cases of rheu- 
matism are caused by imperfect teeth and imperfect tonsils. Very 
often pus sacs form at the roots of the teeth without causing any 
outward disturbance or any aching of the teeth. A good dentist, 
however, will be able to find out whether or not there are pus sacs . 

Don't expose the teeth to extreme temperatures, as extremes of 
heat or cold are apt to crack the enamel. 

Don't bite or break a thread with the teeth; scissors will cut the 
thread quite as quickly and may save a "nicked" or broken tooth. 

Don't crack nuts with the teeth; remember that your teeth were 
not made like a squirrel's. 

Don't use pins or any kind of metal instruments on the teeth. 

Do not allow your teeth to remain neglected, crowded or uneven. 
Your dentist can remedy these defects. 



Chapter VI 
THE EARS 



The alarming increase, yearly, in the number who suffer from 
loss of hearing, from one cause or another, should awaken us all to 
the fact that the ear cannot be too cautiously protected and cared 
for. It behooves us to so inform ourselves in regard to its func- 
tioning, that we may be intelligent in its care and that we may 
recognize danger signals when they first present themselves. 

It has been calculated that one-third of our population is deaf. 

If people understood more intelligently the causes of deafness 
and derangements, to which the ear is liable, more attention would 
be given to keeping it in good condition and to correction of any 
difficulty in its earliest stages. 

Perfect hearing is not only essential to personal comfort and 
happiness, but very necessary for a successful business, professional 
or social career. 

If the hearing be normal one should hear a watch tick five feet 
from the ear. The greater the distance one hears well the greater 
and stronger the hearing power. 

Not one in a hundred, or even a larger majority, knows how to 
care for the ears properly ; they pick, dig and irritate them by probing 

204 



THE EARS 205 

to the middle ear with pins, hair pins and even tooth picks. Sharp 
instruments should be avoided in cleansing the ear passage; if used 
roughly, they will injure and often puncture the drum head, which 
in an adult is but a little more than an inch from the opening of the 
ear ; it acts as a sort of door to close the entrance to the ear passage. 
These pernicious habits, if persisted in, will injure the lining mem- 
brane of the auditory canal, causing an unnatural flow of wax, which, 
when exposed to the air, will dry, harden and fill the canal; if the 
wax rests on the drum head, it may cause partial deafness. 

In cleaning the ears, care should be exercised not to handle them 
too roughly. How many times do we see careful, painstaking mothers 
in their zeal for cleanliness, scrub the ears of their little ones, digging 
into the inner recesses with fingers and wash cloths, until our own 
ears ache and tingle in sympathy. The rim, or folded over portion 
of the ear, should be cleaned very carefully and dried thoroughly ; 
if the folds are very close, the seams will crack easily if not 
properly dried. 

The hearing and the eyesight are both materially affected by the 
general strength and vitality of the system. Normal vitality means 
a normal strength of nerves, forceful circulation, pure, well nourished 
blood and full breathing; it means, also, perfect bodily activity in all 
cells, in tearing down and removing the waste of the system and in 
converting the nourishment contained in the food into body tissue. 

All cases of difficult hearing should, however, be diagnosed by 
the aurist, just as diseases of the eye should be referred to the 
oculist; but after the diagnosis is made, by working in harmony with 
the aurist or oculist, you can often do more than they, by build- 
ing up the blood, the circulation and the general vitality, through 



206 BEAUTY A DUTY 

directions for exercise, diet, breathing and rest. These two senses 
are so important to the happiness and development of the individual 
that every care should be taken with the child to arrest any impend- 
ing danger. 

From the point of looks, also, the ears should 
Shapes of Ears receive attention and consideration. Homely ears 
may disfigure an otherwise shapely head. 

Many deformities in children's ears are due to carelessness of 
the nurse or mother during the child's infancy and younger days. 
A babe, with perfectly formed little ears, will be put to sleep on its 
side, with the ear carelessly folded forward. This habit will in time 
cause the ear to set out from the head at a very disfiguring angle. 
Some attractive faces are ruined by protruding ears, giving the face 
a most grotesque appearance. This could have been prevented in 
early years, when growing tissues were so susceptible to change. It 
is a pity to let a child grow into manhood or womanhood a mark for 
amusement and criticism, when a little care at the proper time would 
have prevented his misfortune. 

If the ears are naturally large and prominent they can be trained 
to lie closer to the head by persevering with any simple, little device 
which will hold the ears down with a firm, even and steady, but not 
too severe pressure. A skeleton framework made of cloth or tape 
the shape of a cap, with ear pieces sufficiently large to hold the ears 
in place, can be worn without obstructing the necessary circulation 
of air around the head and through the hair. If, by constant care 
and use of the cap, the above method does not prove efficient, a first 
class surgeon can remedy the defect, with no attending danger and 
little trouble, by removing a small elliptical piece of skin and cartilage 



THE EARS 207 

from behind the ear where it is attached to the head. The wound 
would be very small and would require but few stitches. In such a 
case the ' ' stitch in time ' ' would save many days and hours of morti- 
fication for the child in later years. 

Boys are prone to push hats and caps too far down on the head, 
often pushing the top of the ear out from the head. This practice 
will soon ruin their shape and develop protruding ears. 

How many things mothers need to watch! 

Women can more easily cover the defect of protruding ears than 
men, by drawing the hair down over them so that the defect is less 
noticeable. 

To cover the anatomy and physiology of the ear 
p, . . fully would require more minute detail and take up 

more space than I can give here, and for the purpose 
of this work it is necessary to treat only such phases of ear diffi- 
culties as can be affected by hygienic treatment. 

The accompanying illustrations, Figures 2, 3 and 4, show the 

intricate mechanism of the ear. Figure 4 shows the auditory nerve 

(F), and the labyrinth of the ear, from a different point of view to 

Fig. 3. The numbers below refer to Fig. 3. 

The auditory tube or canal (3) leads 

-, . ,, , from the outside of the head to the drum 

Tympanic Membrane 

head or tympanic membrane (4),— a delicate 
membrane which is a continuation of the skin of the canal. It 
stretches across it and entirely blocks up the tube, separating the 
inner and the outer tubes. Note the distinction in the following 
pages between the drum, the cavity of the middle ear, and the drum 
head. 

14 



208 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The function of the dram head is largely protective, though it 
receives the sound waves and aids in conveying them to the middle 
ear through the little ear bones, the incus (5), malleus (6) and 
manubrium mallei (7), connected with it. The waves of air vibrate 
against the drum head ; this causes a vibration in the drum or middle 
ear from which the nerves convey the impression to the brain. 

The ear simply vibrates the air waves, the nerves transmit them 
and the brain registers and senses the impression. 

The tympanic membrane is the most sensitive musical instrument 
created. It acts as a phonograph in receiving sound waves. 

The drum head often becomes punctured; this is deplored, 
because of the removal of protection to the middle ear and because 
the ear may become too dry, but one often hears very well through 
a punctured ear drum and the belief that it is absolutely essential 
to hearing is no longer held. Low tones may be heard less distinctly 
because of defects in it, but loud tones quite as well. 

When weakened by disease, small pressure may puncture the 
drum head, or cause it to sink in upon the small bones of the middle 
ear, so that its vibration is interfered with. 

When the drum head has been injured, or if it has thickened, 
it cannot vibrate as the sound waves strike it, and the hearing is less 
acute. 

A box on the ear sometimes causes a puncture, but the middle 
ear is the source of most aural trouble. 

If conditions are normal the drum head stands perfectly 
straight, held in position by the pressure of air in the tube on the 
inner side, resisting the pressure of the air in the external 
auditory canal. These tubes, assisted by the nerves of the ear, 



1 ! 



Mff. 



2 3 i 





Figure 2. 

The bony labyrinth of the ear. I. 2. 3. 
Semicircular canal. 4, Vestibule. 5, Am- 
pulla. 6. Fovea semi-ell iptica. 7. Fovea 
hemispherica. 8. Cochlea. 9. Origin of 
lamina spiralis ossea. 10. Foramen rotundum. 

(Gould) 



Figure 1 . 

The left lateral wall of the nasal cavity showing 
the vestibule of the nose and the naso pharynx. 

(Toldt) 

I , Spheno-ethmoidal recess. 2. Sphenoida 
foramen. 3. Superior meatus of the nose. 4. 
Superior turbinal. 5. Middle turbinal. 6. Mid- 
dle meatus of the nose. 7. Frontal sinus. 
8, Agger nasi. 9. Atrium of the middle meatus. 
10. Upper lateral cartilage. II. Limen vestibuli. 
1 2. Vestibule of the nose. 1 3, Inferior turbinal. 
14, Soft palate. 15. Salping pharyngeal fold. 
16, Levator cushion. 17, Pharyngeal orifice of 
the Eustachian tube. 18. Cushion of the Eusta- 
chian tube. 19, Nasopharyngeal fold. 20. Naso- 
pharyngeal part of the lateral wall of the nasal 
fossae. 2 1 , Occipitosphenoidal synchondrosis. 

22. Arched summit of the pharynx. 





Figure 3. 



I, Auricle. 2, Concha. 3, Externa! auditory canal. 
4, Tympanic membrane or drum head. 5. Incus. 6. 
Malleus. 7. Manubrium mallei. 8. Tensor tympani. 
9. Tympanic cavity. 10, Eustachian tube. II. Superior 
semicircular canal. 12, Posterior semicircular canal. 
14. Cochlea. 15. Internal auditory canal. 16, Facial 
nerve. 17. Large petrosal nerve. 18. Vestibular branch 
of auditory nerve. 19. Cochlear branch. (Gould) 



Fizure 4. 



THE EARS 209 

establish the sense of hearing; so upon their healthy condition 
depends the acuteness or dullness of the hearing. 

Beginning in the back part of the throat is an inner tube, extend- 
ing toward the outer tube and the air from this reaches this mem- 
brane or drum head from within. This inner tube is known as the 
Eustachian tube (10). It is more fully described later. 

The nerves of the ear, which receive and carry the 

Nerves of 
, E sound waves, are so deeply located, that they are not 

easily reached by outward applications, and are affected 
only by building up the general health. If the nerves are tense they 
may often be relaxed by the application of heat, which is most pen- 
etrating if applied in the form of steam. In case of a gathering or 
abscess in the ear there is extreme pressure upon the nerves ; these 
nerves will relax their hold, the tissues relax and the abscess or 
gathering more quickly head, if steam be applied through the 
auditory canal, as directed on page 217. 

We can reach the nerve centers controlling the ear, located in 
the Pons, slightly, by exercises for the neck, but these centers are 
so deeply located at the base of the brain and so entirely protected 
by the skull, that they are reached very slightly. 

The middle ear, the drum or tympanum (9), is the 
~ intricate air space within the petrous portion of the 

temporal bone. It is the outward extension of that por- 
tion of the air passages known as the naso-pharynx, where nose and 
throat meet, illustrated by Figure 1. 

The whole middle ear is lined with a mucous membrane con- 
tinuous with that of the nasal passages and the naso-pharynx. The 
mucus, which exudes from the mucus membrane, finds its outlet 



210 BEAUTY A DUTY 

from the middle ear through the Eustachian tube into the naso- 
pharynx and from the naso-pharynx into the throat. This is par- 
ticularly noticeable in case of catarrh ; the lining of the middle ear, 
being continuous with that of the nasal passages, is easily affected 
by any abnormal condition prevailing in the latter, hence the need 
of checking catarrhal tendencies, that the hearing may not become 
seriously involved. In case of inflammation the patient should be 
kept quiet. 

The naso-pharynx is the space back of the 
Eustachian T b nose. Its roof is formed by the base of the 

skull, its back by the vertebrae of the neck, its 
front by the ends of the nostrils, its floor by the soft palate, and its 
lateral walls by the trumpet-shaped mouths of the Eustachian tubes, 
which connect the middle ear with the naso-pharynx. These tubes 
act as drainage channels, through which the waste matter from the 
ears is carried into the throat. In case of catarrh, abscess or inflam- 
mation, it is of the utmost importance that they be kept strong, free 
and unobstructed. 

The Eustachian tube, then, is important as a drainage tube from 
the ear to the throat, but its function of admitting air is equally 
important. The air in the inner ear is necessary to maintain the 
tension and equilibrium of the drum, which transmits the sound waves 
to the nerves of the inner ear. 

There are two air systems ; — with each inhalation a part of the 
air passes through the trachea to the lungs and a part passes through 
the upper air chamber (the naso-pharynx) and the Eustachian tubes 
to the ears. 

Without the normal amount of air in the middle ear, or drum, the 
mechanism of the drum becomes defective ; that is, if the Eustachian 



THE EARS 211 

tube leading from the throat to the ear is closed the air does not freely 
pass from the naso-pharynx to the ear, the pressure of air within 
the drum is thus lacking, and the atmospheric pressure from without, 
which is about fifteen pounds to the square inch, not being met by an 
equal pressure within, forces the drum head inward, causing it to 
draw toward the throat, much as a suction of air draws a window 
curtain inward; and, as the sound waves strike the membrane, or 
drum head, which is resting against the incus and malleus, it cannot 
vibrate, thus the sound waves are not conveyed to the nerves. 

It will be readily seen how materially breath- 
F 11 B ath'n * n ^' w ^^ retains a pressure within the drum 
equal to the pressure without, strengthens and 
holds the membrane of the drum at proper tension. It will 
also be readily seen how necessary it is that these membranes be 
thoroughly nourished by pure blood. If the body is undernourished 
by food or air the membranes of the ear become weakened. 

It is when the drum head draws or sinks inward that the Politzer 
bag is used. It forces air into the ear drum during the act of swal- 
lowing, thus pushing the membrane of the drum back to position. 
The Politzer bag should be used only upon the advice of the aurist 
because if the drum head be weak it may be overstrained. 

Such a condition is most frequently caused by catarrh and the 
extent to which the hearing is interfered with depends partly upon 
whether the Eustachian tube is partially or wholly closed. Special 
exercises, according to conditions, may be given to keep the Eus- 
tachian tube open, also breathing exercises to tone and strengthen 
the nerves of the mucous lining of the ears. 



212 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Breathing exercises, which answer the purpose of the Politzer 
bag, in a milder degree, may be practiced to systematically force a 
full amount of air into the air chamber of the drum, thereby 
strengthening its walls without danger of overstrain. 

In swallowing, the mouth of the Eustachian tube is slightly 
elevated and the air more readily passes from the naso-pharynx to 
the middle ear. 

Normally, every act of swallowing, yawning or breathing opens 
the tubes and gives a chance for equalization, unless the nose be 
stopped up. In that case, the process is reversed and, if the Eusta- 
chian tubes are likewise clogged, every swallowing motion by suction 
draws the air out of the ears. 

Again— if the Eustachian tube be closed or partly so, the sounds 
will not only reverberate unnaturally within, but the air will be 
absorbed by moist walls, the partial vacuum will affect the ill-sup- 
porting drum membrane, and the pressure from without, being 
greater than that from within, will cause the bone of the middle ear 
to press too closely upon the network of cavities in the internal ear, 
producing deafness or dizziness, or subjective noises, and there may 
be a tendency to congestion. 

The tissues here are delicate and the regular practice of breath- 
ing exercises, daily, is nature's method of retaining their strength. 
Exercises for the neck, to keep the Eustachian tubes free, also exer- 
cises for the palate, are particularly valuable in maintaining the 
general strength of the ears. The constrictor, or palate muscles, 
blended with those of the ear drum and the Eustachian tubes, control 
the movement of air in the upper air tract. 



THE EARS 213 

The ear secretes a yellow, sticky wax, which prevents 
Ear Wax foreign bodies from reaching the drum head. When the 
auditory canal is irritated, this wax is thrown out in large 
quantities and accumulates rapidly. 

Ear wax is formed by glands, like the sweat glands. As these 
glands are in the outer two-thirds of the auditory canal, no wax 
forms near the drum head. A healthy ear should never show more 
wax than will render the hairs within sticky. Sometimes, however, 
the water which enters the ear in bathing will harden the wax and 
it will not work itself away naturally. One sometimes becomes deaf 
by reason of the wax, collecting gradually for several months, hard- 
ening and entirely closing the canal. Great care must be exer- 
cised in the removal of hardened wax. Never attempt to remove 
it with a hard substance, which may push it inward and injure the 
drum 

It can be removed by dropping two or three drops of warm 
olive or sweet oil into the ear at bed time. The next morning add 
a half teaspoon of soda to a pint of hot water, 105 degrees to 115 
degrees F., and syringe the ear. In doing so, always point the 
syringe upward so that the water will not be directed against the ear 
drum, but by entering back of the wax, will wash it out. Promiscuous 
syringing of the ear is dangerous. 

Follow the directions for syringing when, for any reason, the 
ear passage is to be cleaned out. It is well to always wear a bit of 
cotton in the ear for a few hours after syringing, as the inner and 
middle ear are more susceptible to cold at that time. 



214 BEAUTY A DUTY 

By far the largest percentage of deafness, ear noises, 
Catarrh etc., is caused by catarrh, which is merely an infla mm ation 
of a mucous lining. It is most frequent in the nasal 
passages and respiratory organs, but it attacks also the mucous 
lining of the stomach (gastritis), the intestines, bladder, etc. Catarrh 
is more fully treated under the chapter upon "The Nose." 

Catarrh, and its resultant deafness, can often be overcome by 
persistent attention to special breathing exercises, which keep open 
the nasal passages and control the passage of air into the Eustachian 
tubes and by bodily exercises to free the spinal nerve centers con- 
trolling the head. .Exercises may be given which stimulate* the 
nerves to the ears, create an active removal of waste through the 
tubes, and cause a normal flow of blood through the entire body, thus 
improving not only local, but also general conditions. 

Exercises which bring strength to all vital organs are most 
important in the relief of catarrh because they are the best means 
of purifying the blood. As the veins and lymph channels lie very 
near the surface in the neck, massage may be so applied as to remove 
the blood impurities here and bring fresh nourishing blood to the 
head. All exercises which stimulate a better circulation through the 
head, are of benefit to the ears. 

For example: exercises for the ears and Eustachian tubes not 
only empty the tubes of all waste, but are soothing to the nerves of 
the neck by bringing purer and more nutritious blood to it. 

In case of catarrh, when the mucous discharge is great, the 
freedom of the Eustachian tube is of utmost importance, since the 
mucus must pass through it to the throat. If the mucus be not 



THE EARS 215 

removed, it may become infected, pus may form and an abscess 
result. 

The diet must also be supervised, that the blood may be thor- 
oughly nourished. 

Anything which affects the functions of the auditory 

Csuscs or 

~ , canal, the middle ear, the drum head, or the Eustachian 

Deafness 

tube may affect the hearing or cause those disagreeable 
noises or muffled sounds in the head from which so many suffer with- 
out knowing the cause. 

When the auditory nerve is paralyzed there is no hope for a 
cure. 

If the external ear be closed partially or wholly, with hardened 
wax, it produces a form of deafness. 

All conditions that obstruct the free passage of air through the 
Eustachian tube have their origin in diseases commencing in the 
nose and the throat. The disease extends from the throat into this 
tube, which, as previously explained, is lined with a mucous mem- 
brane continuous with that of the nose and throat; so, any inflam- 
mation or affection of these parts may extend into this tube and up 
into the ear ; e. g. : when one takes a cold, which settles in the throat, 
the inflammation causes the opening of the Eustachian tube to par- 
tially close. This prevents the passage of sufficient air to the drum 
and very often results in ear trouble and even in deafness, especially 
if the inflammation, or catarrh, becomes chronic. 

When deafness is caused by acute catarrh, or by a severe 
cold, inflammation starts in the nose and naso-pharynx, continuing 
up through the tubes, to the middle ear; therefore, in order to treat 

Malformation of the nasal turbinates is a common cause of deafness. 



216 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the deafness successfully, it is necessary to stimulate the secretions, 
and bring fresh blood to the parts, so that the inflammatory deposits 
left in the membrane will be absorbed by the normal flow of the 
blood through the parts. The opening of the Eustachian tube into 
the naso-pharynx is shown in Figure 1 (17). 

In children, the greater part of the roof of the naso-pharynx is 
covered with what is called the third tonsil and the enlargement of 
this by adenoid growth is grave, because it may possibly involve the 
Eustachian tube and the middle ear and result in deafness. 

Mothers should carefully watch growing boys and girls, who 
are forming the habit of keeping the mouth open. As a rule it 
indicates trouble in the nose or naso-pharynx. The number of boys 
and girls in their teens who keep their mouths open is alarmingly 
increasing. Deafness caused by enlarged glands in the post-nasal 
cavity and by adenoids is most common among children under 
fifteen. When affected they usually sleep with the mouth open, 
snore, and make a good deal of noise, while asleep. Very often if 
the above diseases occur when a child is two or three years old and 
the glands swell very much, it results in deafness and dumbness, 
especially if the child has not learned to talk. When the glands swell 
badly it causes the tissues of the middle ear to close entirely and 
collapse. This results in complete deafness. 

Habitual stopping up of the nose in children is serious, as chronic 
deafness may result from neglect of this condition. 

Chronic catarrh of the nose, throat or post-nasal cavity, or 
inflammation and inflammatory thickening of the membranes of 
throat, head and nose, must be healed and relieved before any def- 
inite improvement will be experienced in deafness or head noises. 



THE EARS 217 

Diseases that most commonly affect the ears and hearing are 
measles, scarlet fever, diphtheria, pneumonia, bronchitis and catarrh. 

Every cold in the head more or less involves the ears. Massage 
of the throat, below the points effected; compresses, hot or cold, as 
the case demands ; exercises to stimulate the circulation and to reach 
the nerve centers controlling these parts; and breathing exercises 
to regulate the air in the nasal passages and Eustachian tubes, are 
most effective means of relief. Massage movements may prevent 
serious trouble, if practiced persistently. 

Earache, arising from cold, usually means infiamma- 
Earache tion and is relieved by heat. The best way to apply the 
heat and make it penetrate is by steam: 

Fill a glass half full of hot water; oil the ear and the flesh 
around it thoroughly with vaseline or cold cream, so that the steam 
may not blister the skin ; fold a cloth around the top of the glass to 
prevent contact with the flesh ; turn the head letting it rest upon the 
glass with the ear within, so that the steam penetrates into the 
auditory canal; press the head upon the glass with just sufficient 
pressure to prevent the steam from escaping, but be careful not to 
turn the glass up so as to allow the hot water, or the sides of the 
glass, to touch the ear. 

Keep this up continuously until the inflammation subsides. 

When the glass is removed, fill the ear with cotton and bind a 
warm cloth about the head to prevent taking cold in the tissues which 
have been relaxed by the steam. 

Steam, applied in this way, is more penetrating than hot water 
compresses or baked onions, or the many other remedies frequently 
employed. 



218 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is not wise to syringe hot water into the ear in case of inflam- 
mation, unless you know the exact condition, because the drum head 
may have been drawn inward, as shown on page 211, or it may have 
been punctured and the force of water from a syringe might aggra- 
vate this trouble. In case it is necessary to syringe the ear, it is well 
to use the Politzer bag after the syringe so that the air from the 
bag may force out the drum head pressed inward by water of the 
syringe. An aurist should thoroughly examine an ear in case of ear 
trouble and then instruct some member of the family in its treatment. 

It must be remembered, however, that severe inflammation can- 
not be relieved at once. Eest in bed, with light diet is advisable, 
as severe exercise may increase the pain. The Eustachian tubes 
should be kept free by light massage of the neck that the secretion 
may pass away and not unduly press, within the ear drum. 

The old-fashioned night cap protects the entire region of the ear 
and is preferable to cotton in the ears at night. One sleeps on one 
side of the face and when turning exposes the ear to a sudden change 
of temperature, which is disastrous to inflamed ears. The night cap 
prevents this sudden change. 

Constipation, poor circulation, or any cause of head congestion, 
should be removed. 

Sometimes when there is serious catarrh of the 
Abscesses drum, the secretions, being clogged, become infected, 
causing an abscess, and relief can be obtained only by 
the abscess breaking through the drum head. Moist heat applied in 
the form of steam, as above, will hasten the breaking of the abscess 
and reduce the pain. 



THE EARS 219 

An abscess in the ear is a pus formation resulting- from sup- 
purative inflammation. The symptoms are pressure, meningitis, 
headache and optic neuritis. 

Few children, in climates subject to sudden changes, escape 
attacks of this kind; if they recur frequently watch carefully the 
hearing. 

Abscesses in the middle ear, which break and discharge through 
the drum head, perforate it. If the perforation be small and located 
away from the center of the ear drum, it may only cause slight deaf- 
ness, but if large, the deafness will be more pronounced. 

A few drops of peroxide of hydrogen dropped into the ear twice 
a day after the pus begins to discharge will cleanse and disinfect 
the outer ear. This will cause the pus to boil up, and when a 
seething sound is no longer detected the pus is all removed; then, 
if the perforation is closed, syringe the ear out with warm water in 
which a little boracic acid has been dissolved, but all syringing of 
the ears after an abscess should be done under the immediate direc- 
tion of a physican, who determines the condition of the perforation. 
Remember the water should be directed upward against the upper 
part of the auditory canal and not with direct force against the drum 
head; if carelessly attended to, so that the healing process is slow, 
the ear drum may remain perforated. Massage movements given 
elsewhere in the lesson, will help to stimulate the circulation to the 
ear and the perforation may, in most cases, be wholly healed. 

In the absence of good health and pure blood it cannot be 
expected that the organs of the body will adequately moot the require- 
ments imposed upon them by the strenuous life of today. 



220 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Noises in the ear have" no definite relation to defec- 
Noises in 
th E ^ ve nearm £ 5 however, they are often associated with it. 

Their cause is as varied as their character, though the 
most frequent cause is irritation of the nerve ending in the ear, 
caused by pressure. The seat of the irritation is often in the nose. 
Anaemia, abnormal blood supply (plethora), defective digestion, 
poor circulation, stomach or intestinal catarrh or blood changes may 
cause them. 

In other cases, the general condition of the veins and the arteries 
and especially over action of the heart, may cause them. 

Another form of noise, which bystanders can hear, is a clicking 

due to opening of the Eustachian tube when the soft palate is lifted. 

All inflammation, congestion, inflammatory deposit, and tension 

on the little tendons and nerves of the ear drum, must be relieved 

before noises in the head and ear will disappear. 

Children are more often affected with this form of 

, E eczema, especially when there is a similar condition of 

the scalp or face, but adults may also be affected. 

In acute cases the ears will be red, swollen and very tender, while 

in chronic cases, they will be fissured, board-like in texture and have 

a scaly surface. Eczema of the external passages of the ears, will 

cause deafness, a feeling of fullness, combined with pruritus (itching) 

and the canal will become clogged with scales and cerumen (ear wax). 

Formulas for ointments and lotions will be given for relief when 

desired. 

If the glands, blood vessels, nerves or tissues have 
in All Cases no ^ ^ een destroyed, any disease of the nose, throat, ear 
or eye, should respond to proper hygienic treatment. 



THE EARS 221 

Diseased deposits in the tissues create chronic ailments, the 
organ gradually loses its functions and in time atrophies or becomes 
paralyzed. 

Bring fresh blood to the parts, increase the vitality and tonicity 
of the nerve power, increase the flow of fresh secretion into the parts 
and re-absorb all inflammatory deposits, by exercises and massage. 

It must be remembered that all ear difficulties will require per- 
sistent treatment;— in other words, faithful exercise and breathing 
each day, until the inflammatory deposit breaks up and is reabsorbed 
through the blood. 

Very often a slight surgical operation upon the adenoids or 
turbinates will remove the cause of ear difficulties. This should be 
followed by exercise, breathing and general hygienic treatment. 



Chapter VII 
THE HANDS 



The hands are an important medium of expression. The delicate 
nerves here may be cultivated to express thought to such a degree 
as to be almost incomprehensible to one who has not lived with those 
deprived of other senses, particularly the sense of sight. Take, for 
example, the hands of the blind Nydia, shown on the accompanying 
sheet; they seem almost to be quivering to express the sight denied 
the eyes. 

The hands of the master musician, whose soul is moved, as with 
the music of the choir invisible, seem to be waiting, expectantly, to 
express the harmony heard by soul, not ear. The hands of St. Cecilia 
(Fig. 4), delicately flexible, seem almost to be saying to the hovering 
muse: "I am ready. Use me as your medium of expression." One 
can appreciate the refined thought, the artistic, exquisite nature 
of the possessor of the hands of Fig. 2, and the strength and refine- 
ment of Fig. 1, while the hand of Fig. 3 is too beautiful to disfigure 
with the mere metal of jewels. The beauty of nature is sufficient. 

In races that gesticulate a great deal, particularly the French, 
the hands express much of the temperament,— the play of thoughts 
and the hidden depths, -*- which the face, schooled to control, does not. 

222 



THE HANDS 223 

This may be partly due to the fact that most sensitive and delicate 
nerves extend to the palms and to the finger tips. 

The nerves of the hands become so sensitized that many physi- 
cians have learned to use them as diagnostic aids in their profession. 
Low vitality and slight resistive force, often express themselves in 
a cold perspiration in the palms,— the sweat glands here are very 
profuse. The clasp of such a hand is clammy and disagreeable. 

A vast amount of character is expressed by a handclasp, and if 
the face be studied, in conjunction with the hand, corresponding lines 
of weakness or strength may be discovered. 

A firm hand is designated as a positive hand. The negative hand 
is limp and unresponsive, denoting more or less weakness of character, 
or depleted vitality. The artistic hand is sensitive and may be either 
positive or negative, but is always expressive of the artistic tem- 
perament. (See Figs. 5, 7 and 9.) 

Note the life expression which the artist has given to the hands 
of Fig. 8, illustrated more clearly in Fig. 9 ; and what eagerness and 
strength is shown in Fig. 10. 

Nothing detracts more from one's appearance than neglected 
hands and nails. Failure to care for and develop lines of beauty 
here, suggests neglect of a sacred duty to educate, elevate, and refine 
through cleanliness. 

Being a means of expression of the artistic sense, if not properly 
cared for, they displease and grate upon our finer sensibilities, for 
well groomed hands, daintily used, are an unfailing indication of 
delicacy of thought and nature. 

The shape of the hand can be changed by cultivation 

Exerc's an( * care *° a cer ^ am degree, only. If the .joints have 

become large, by reason of hard work, it is possible that 



224 BEAUTY A DUTY 

they may slightly taper down, if one is relieved from hard work and 
the hand massaged and given good care; but if the hand has been 
subjected to hard work, during its growing years, or if a rheumatic 
or gouty condition exist, the joints themselves become enlarged and 
no amount of care can change the shape of the joints. They may be 
kept soft and flexible and be well cared for, however. 

Fingers which taper gradually are considered artistic, and exer- 
cises may be given to develop this characteristic, as well as exercises 
to develop a good, firm, honest hand, so much to be admired. 

Exercises will also develop grace and flexibility; every woman 
who wishes to cultivate a graceful hand should learn to relax it. 
Too much energy causes ungraceful, clumsy movements. When one 
has worked hard at some period of life, the hands form the habit of 
being too much energized, and a little time spent in their care and 
upon exercises for flexibility, will work wonders. But the treatment 
must be regular and systematic. 

The appearance of the hands can be greatly 
of th H d improved by taking good care of them each day. Do 
not abuse them in doing your housework, and do not 
fail to care for them just as conscientiously as you care for your 
face and neck, every night before retiring. When doing rough house- 
work, use rubber gloves, such as are worn by surgeons ; during cold 
weather, when more special care of exposed skin is needed, use a 
larger sized kid or chamois glove at night, whenever the hands seem 
to be unusually rough, after first anointing well with a skin food, 
hand cream or healing lotion. 

Stains may be removed by lemon juice, alcohol, salt or pumice 
stone, — the latter is powdered or in plain lump or mounted form. 





' 




2 Nydia 





5 Isaiah 



(SARGENT.) 



1 



THE HANDS 225 

The hands should always be thoroughly dried (this is more nec- 
essary in cold than in warm weather) and judgment exercised as to 
how often they need washing, for exposed skin will not stand as 
indiscriminate use of water in winter as in summer. 

In cold weather, particularly, have a good hand lotion on your 
wash stand and moisten the hands with this each time, after washing 
them, to prevent them chapping and to keep them white. 

The kind of soap to be used must depend upon the char- 
Soaps acter of the skin. If dry, an oily soap, such as an olive oil 
or glycerine soap would be best; if oily, any kind of good 
toilet soap may be used. What agrees, however, with one skin may 
not with another; therefore, if you have not already done so, it would 
be advisable to give the leading good, unscented soaps a trial and 
note results, continuing that which you find most beneficial for your 
skin. Avoid cheap, perfumed soaps, such as are supplied free in 
public places. Always carry your own soap, in traveling. 

An excellent plan, and an economical one, is to buy a large bar 
of good castile, cut it into small convenient sized cakes, by use of a 
cord or knife, and let them dry thoroughly. This is excellent for the 
skin and also for shampooing. Ivory soap is cheap, it contains no 
free alkali, and it is as good for cleansing hands or body as many, 
if not all, of the expensive ones. 

A chapped condition of the skin is, properly speaking, 
Hands 
Cha ed a dermatitis, or mild skin disease. Besides being caused 

by exposure to heat, dirt, wind, weather and cold, it is, 

also, the result of not properly drying the hands after washing them, 

particularly in winter;— it may come from a mild eczema of the 

hands. Constant exposure to dust and dirt will chap the hands very 



226 BEAUTY A DUTY 

quickly, and it is very necessary to keep them moistened with a good 
hand lotion, because it is drying. 

Until the roughness is overcome, or in case you are obliged to 
wash your hands often in cold weather, each time after they are 
bathed, or put in water, they should be anointed with a good hand 
lotion. A hand lotion or a good healing oil, such as white vaseline, 
olive or almond oil, cold cream, should be thoroughly rubbed in at 
night before retiring. There is no better healing oil than white 
vaseline. When the hands are chapped, almond meal or oatmeal is 
better for cleansing than soap, on account of the drying quality of 
the alkali in the soap. A lotion of equal parts of glycerine, bay rum 
and rose water, with a few drops of carbolic acid is good for most 
hands. 

One frequent cause of red hands, in the past, was tight 

Red 

H , lacing, which impeded circulation; but few women are 

guilty of this bad habit to-day,— we love our freedom too 
well. The most frequent cause of this defect is imperfect circula- 
tion, indigestion, or undue exposure to dirt, to extremes of heat or 
cold, or to sun or wind. In such cases,— the congested blood vessels 
can be relieved, and the skin whitened, by attention to the use of 
pure, soft water and a softening lotion after bathing. 

Salt rheum is a chronic form of eczema, 

Salt Rheum and , . , , , , , ,, , -. , , 

t- c +.%- tt ■, which more commonly attacks the hands, but 

Eczema of the Hands J 

frequently involves both hands and feet at the 

same time. The various forms of the disease are papular (pimply), 

scaly and moist. Eczema very often develops between the fingers 

and toes, while acute vascular eczema is quite frequent on the hands. 

The susceptibility to and frequency of skin diseases of the hands 





7 Soul's Awakening 

(saut). 





8 St. Cecili 




THE HANDS 227 

is due, more or less, to their exposure to external irritants, and is 
of course aggravated by too frequent washing. 

Fissures will result wherever eczema has impaired the elasticity 
of the skin, causing it to tear and stretch, when a necessary move- 
ment is made in the joints. This form of eczema often affects the 
hands and arms, feet and ankles, and frequently develops about the 
mouth and the anus. 

Mild forms of scaly, fissured eczema will occur on the hands and 
faces of those with thin, tender, or poorly nourished skin, or when 
the skin has been exposed to the wind, strongly alkaline soaps, hard 
water, chemicals or other irritants.* 

Manicuring is an art in itself, and one which every 

Pgrg q£ 

th N '1 woman should understand and practice, for well groomed 
hands and nails indicate a delicate refinement and atten- 
tion to details of appearance, which mark the woman who fully 
appreciates the influence such little attentions to the toilet have upon 
the atmosphere about us. 

Diseases of the nails, such as arise from blood disorders, gastric 
disturbances and other causes, require special treatment and of 
course do not come within the province of manicure instructions. 

The nails should be carefully manicured once a week, according 
to directions which follow, and properly cared for each day, so that 
the arc of skin about the nail may present an unbroken line. As 
often, therefore, as may be necessary during the day, thoroughly 
clean with a brush and remove all foreign matter from beneath, then 
gently push the cuticle back. On no account trim the cuticle with the 
scissors, as this process leaves broken and sometimes raw edges, 

* Eczema is more fully treated under the lesson upon "The Skin." 



228 BEAUTY A DUTY 

which will need constant attention. If the cuticle is ragged, be patient 
and rub off with the fingers what is too loose, or use pumice stone. 

In cleaning the nails, it is never advisable to use a sharp, metal 
point. If the tip of a file is used, it should be rounded slightly, and 
its edges smooth. Otherwise, the inner surface of the nail will be 
scraped and roughened, thus permitting it to hold dust more readily. 
The rounded point of the orange stick is a good nail cleaner, and, 
cut short, may be carried in the purse. 

In selecting scissors, files, etc., get only the best grade, as they 
will give better service, last longer and will prove cheaper in the end. 

A complete manicure outfit consists of a file, scissors, tweezers, 
cuticle knife, buffer, orange sticks, emery boards, nail-brush, soap, 
hand lotion or cream, nail-powder, a small bottle of peroxide of 
hydrogen, and a small pumice stone. 

A thin file is easiest to handle, and will reach under the edge of 
the nail better. A good file costs only 30 cents, if you buy one with 
just a plain extension handle. 

In selecting scissors, get full steel scissors, with plain, round 
handle and curved blade. 

Of course, if you wish to get more elaborate designs in scissors 
or other manicure pieces, very beautiful ones may be had in silver, 
but plain steel instruments are more substantial and satisfactory 
for practical use. 

The cuticle knife should be of steel, also, and should be very thin 
and pointed ; it should be used when the orange-wood stick will not 
loosen the flesh from the nail. 

In selecting a buffer, see that it is soft and pliable, and about 
four inches in length. This is used for rubbing the nails after the 



THE HANDS 229 

polishing powder is applied. Put it away each time after using, so 
that dust and dirt will not collect on the chamois that covers the pad. 

Orange-wood sticks come only in one grade and size and are 
used for loosening the cuticle which grows upon the nail, and 
cleansing underneath the nail itself. The orange-wood sticks are 
preferable to any other, as they do not become soft or swell, as other 
woods do, when wet. A real orange-wood stick is hard to get, now- 
adays, as many imitations are sold. Remember that a yellowish, 
close-grained texture of wood identifies the orange-wood. They sell 
for 5 cents each. 

Emery boards are also of one grade and one size, but they have 
a coarse and a fine side. The coarse side is to be used first and the 
fine side last. These are used to smooth the edges of the nails after 
filing and are very inexpensive, costing but a few cents per dozen. 

Any good, cold cream (even the sweet cream of milk), is suitable 
as a lubricant for the nails and surrounding cuticle and to prepare 
the nail for polishing. 

For polishing, a nail powder is needed. It can also be gotten 
in compressed cake form. The latter is convenient to use and prevents 
wasting the powder. 

A good nail brush will cost 30 to 40 cents. The kind with a flat 
back and bristles on the sides is most in favor. 

A small bottle of peroxide of hydrogen should be kept with the 
manicure outfit, ready for use, as directed or needed. It is used to 
bleach the under side of the nail and remove stains. 

Many manicurists use powdered pumice stone to assist in 
removing the stain, but this is not necessary. 



230 BEAUTY A DUTY 

No point of womanly beauty so quickly responds 

ow to Care ^ Q p r0 p er care or s hows so much improvement for the 

amount of time expended as the finger nails. And 

there is no feature which detracts more from a woman's charm than 

do ill-kept nails. 

The care of the nails should begin in childhood. On the care 
which the child's finger nails received depends very largely the beauty 
or unattractiveness of the nails later in life. Nail-biting, with its 
consequent deformities, is a habit often started by rough, neglected 
nails. A child, when it discovers a rough place on a finger nail, will 
bite and tear the rough edge. Of course, the nail is no smoother 
after this is done, and the process is repeated. Thus the habit of 
nail-biting is acquired. 

A rough or broken nail should never be neglected longer than it 
is necessary to reach a nail file. If the habit of nail-biting has been 
formed, it may be corrected by first smoothing the remnants of the 
nails which have been left and then anointing them with quassia, 
quinine, bitter aloes, or anything else bitter, yet harmless. Keep 
close watch on the nails and if they are bitten again, immediately file 
down the rough edge. Just so long as the nails are smooth there is 
no nervous irritation to encourage biting them. 

In the case of children, it is just as easy to smooth the roughened 

edges of the nails as it is to reprove the child for biting them, and 

far more effective. 

The importance of proper manicuring cannot be 
General In- 
structions for overestimated. No matter how beautifully shaped the 

hands may be, they will not be attractive if the nails 

are not properly manicured. 



THE HANDS 231 

The most graceful, tapering fingers will appear unattractive if 
the nails are rough and uneven, stained or ill-shaped. Kough cuticle 
will mar the appearance of a hand which, if properly cared for, would 
be beautiful. If the nails are perfectly cared for, even the hand which 
is not beautiful in contour may be made attractive. Just as personal 
daintiness is the redeeming feature of many an otherwise plain 
woman, exquisitely manicured nails lend attractiveness and charm 
to the plainest hand. 

It does not require any great length of time properly to care for 
the nails ; in fact, a small amount of time devoted regularly to them 
gives better results than does a greater amount of time spent hap- 
hazard. Ten minutes each day, with half an hour once a week for the 
manicure, is sufficient time to keep the nails in proper condition. 

The daily care of the nails is very simple. Always after bathing, 
when the nails and the flesh surrounding them have been thoroughly 
softened by the water, press back the cuticle with a soft towel when 
drying the hands. Do this gently, being careful not to bruise the nail. 
If every time you wash your hands you remember to do this, the 
cuticle will gradually become free from the nail and the white crescent 
will show more plainly. 

Never clean the nails with a sharp instrument. This only scrapes 
and scars them, leaving them rough and very much more easily 
soiled. Have the point of the orange-wood stick moderately sharp 
for cleaning the nails. It is not well to use a thick instrument, as it 
forces the flesh away from the nail. However, if the orange-wood 
stick is too sharp it will tear the delicate flesh beneath the nail and be 
very painful. About the sharpness of a soft lead pencil is advisable. 

With the blunt end of the orange-wood stick, loosen the cuticle 



232 BEAUTY A DUTY 

surrounding the nail. Be very patient while you are doing this, for 
the cuticle is living tissue and should be very gently pushed from the 
nail. If the fingers are thoroughly soaked in warm water the opera- 
tion is comparatively easy. 

The tiny bits of flesh which adhere to the nail after the cuticle is 
loosened, the bits of skin which follow the outline where the cuticle 
was attached to the nail, should never be scraped off with a sharp 
instrument, but should be gently removed with the orange-wood stick. 
Never to cut the cuticle is a hard and fast rule 
, eV p r Vj which needs no explanation to prove its wisdom. Cuti- 
cle is the living selvage of the flesh. Cut it, and you will 
have an uneven edge which will fray, developing hang-nails. 

Hang-nails often accompany improperly cared for nails. Do not 
immediately cut them off, for you will more than likely make your 
fingers sore. Instead, soak the fingers in warm water until the flesh 
is thoroughly softened, then dry the hands carefully. Loosen the 
cuticle, beginning in the center of the base of the nail and working 
toward the point of the finger. Always loosen the cuticle in this 
manner. If the hang-nail is raw, apply a bit of peroxide. If the 
hang-nail is not very bad and the flesh is dry, the ragged edge may be 
worked off with the orange-wood stick ; but always remember to work 
from the center of the base of the nail toward the finger tip. 

If you find it necessary to clip the end of the hang-nail, cut away 
from the base of the nail, toward the end of the finger. Otherwise 
you are cutting against the grain, thereby aggravating the trouble, 
and encouraging the return of the hang-nail. If the cuticle be kept 
properly loosened the hang-nail will heal naturally, as would a cut in 
any other part of the skin. Never neglect the daily loosening of the 



THE HANDS 233 

cuticle and you will not be troubled with the presence of hang-nails. 

Lemon is one of the best bleaches for the hands. It removes 
many troublesome stains and does not dry the nails or make them 
brittle, as peroxide has a tendency to do. However, the stains will 
reappear when soap is used after lemon bleaching. It is well to have 
half of a lemon to use after washing your hands. The effect of the 
acid is to soften as well as to bleach. Plunge the fingers into the pulp 
of the lemon and work them around. This bleaches the skin beneath 
the nail. 

The nails should be filed a little, every other day. If this is done 
there will be no necessity for cutting the nails. Clipping the nails 
has a thickening tendency, and it should be avoided. 

Nails should be filed and shaped to suit the individual hands. It 
is well to allow the nails to conform to a great extent to the shape 
of the ends of the fingers. Sharply pointed nails are always in very 
bad taste, as are nails which are too long. 

Brittle nails may be helped by application of a bit of oil or cold 
cream. 

Polishing the nails is the last step in the manicure. The degree 
of polish should be governed by individual taste. The very highly 
polished nail is not regarded as good form. Moderation holds 
good in this case as in everything else. Powder or paste may be 
used for polishing. 

Be careful in using the buffer not to rub the nails so rapidly that 
they become heated. The heat caused by brisk rubbing makes them 
brittle. 

Finger nails which are extremely brittle and surrounded by 
broken and ragged cuticle may be greatly helped by a liberal appli- 



234 BEAUTY A DUTY 

cation of cold cream and the wearing of loose white gloves at night. 

Cultivate the habit of right care of the hands and you will be 
fully repaid. 

If the nails have been neglected and are in bad condition, you 
must not expect to accomplish a perfect finish in the first treatment ; 
but if you will be persistent you will find that even the most 
unsightly nails can be made to look attractive in time. 

If the skin adheres to the nail, or if the cuticle has been cut and 
is sore or ragged, or if the nails are inclined to be brittle, rub a little 
mutton or beef tallow, cold cream or white vaseline into the flesh 
about the roots each night. 

When using a hand lotion, always be sure that it is rubbed well 
around the nails. 

In case blood is drawn by the cuticle knife, or scissors, apply a 
little peroxide of hydrogen. It will stop the bleeding and act as an 
antiseptic and disinfectant. 

The child should be early taught to properly care for its own 
nails. 



THE HANDS 235 

Scientific Reading of the Palm 

It seems reasonable that the characteristic thoughts should out- 
line themselves in the expression of the hands, as well as in facial 
or bodily expression, and it may be interesting to my pupils to out- 
line, broadly, the general character as read by the hand. I am, there- 
fore, reproducing below the seven types of hands as drawn by Dore, 
with a brief description of the types by Cheiro. 

I am not a student of palmistry and cannot go into a discussion 
of types of hands with my pupils but thinking the following brief 
description might be of interest, I give it. 

"This hand naturally belongs to the 

The Elementary Hand . . 

p- 1 lowest type ot mentality. In appearance, it 

is coarse and clumsy, with large, thick, heavy 
palm, short fingers and short nails. 

"It is always important to notice the length of the palm and 
fingers. Some books on palmistry state that to show intellectuality 
the fingers should be longer than the palm; but an examination of 
this statement will show that it is not correct. It has not been proved 
that fingers have been found longer than the palm. When, however, 
in proportion to the size of the palm the fingers are long, it indicates 
a more intellectual nature than when they are short. The deduction, 
therefore, is that the more the palm dominates the hand, the more 
does the animal nature rule. The people possessing such a type have 
very little mental capacity, and what they do possess leans more to 
the order of the brute. 



236 BEAUTY A DUTY 

"The square hand means the palm square at 

The Square or the wrist, square at the base of the fingers, and the 

p. g fingers themselves square. Such a type is also called 

the useful, because it is found in so many walks of 

life. With this type, the nails, as well, are generally short and 

square. 

"People with such a hand are orderly, punctual and precise in 
manner; not, however, from any innate grace of nature, but more 
from conformity to custom and habit. They respect authority, they 
love discipline, they have a place for everything and everything is 
kept in its place, not only in their household, but in their brains. 
They respect law and order, and are slaves to custom; they are not 
quarrelsome, but are determined in opposition; they prefer reason 
to instinct, peace to war, and are methodical in work and in habit. 
They are endowed with great perseverance, but are tenacious, not 
resigned; they are not enthusiastic over poetry or art; they ask for 
the material, they win success in practical things. 

"In religion they will not go to extremes; they prefer substance 
to show and dogma to ideas. They are not adaptable to people, or 
versatile; they have little originality or imagination, but in work 
they have great application, force of character, strength of will, and 
often out-distance their more brilliant and inspirational rivals. They 
naturally love the exact sciences, and all practical study. They 
encourage agriculture and commerce ; they love home and the duties 
of home, but are not demonstrative in affection. They are sincere 
and true in promises, staunch in friendship, strong in principle, and 
honest in business. Their greatest fault is that they are inclined to 
reason by a twelve-inch rule, and disbelieve all they cannot under- 
stand. 










Fig. 1 — The Elementary Hand Fig. 2 — The Square or Useful Hand 



Fi". 3 —The Spatulate or Active 
Hand 




Fig. 4 — The Knotty or Philosophic 
Hand. 




Fig. 5 — The Conic or Artistic Hand 





Fig. 6 — The Psychic, or Idealistic 
Hand 



Fig. 7 — The Mixed Hand 



THE HANDS 237 

"The spatulate hand is so called not only 

The Spatulate or because the tip of each finger resembles the spat- 

■c- „ ula that chemists use in mortars, but also because 

tig. 6 

the palm, instead of having the squareness of the 
preceding type, is either unusually broad at the wrist or at the base 
of the fingers. 

"In the first place, the spatulate hand, when hard and firm, 
indicates a nature restless and excitable, but full of energy of pur- 
pose and enthusiasm. When soft and flabby, which is often the case, 
it denotes the restless but irritable spirit. Such a person works in 
fits and starts, but cannot stick to anything long. Now, in the first 
place, the peculiar attribute that the spatulate hand has is its intense 
love of action, energy and independence. It belongs to the great 
navigators, explorers, discoverers, and also the great engineers and 
mechanics, but it is by no means confined to such people, and may 
be found in almost every walk of life. As a rule, it is a large hand, 
with fairly long, well-developed fingers. The most striking char- 
acteristic of all is the singular independence of spirit that character- 
izes individuals possessing such a development. It is doubtless this 
spirit that makes them explorers and discoverers, and causes them 
also to depart from the known rules of engineering and mechanics 
to seek the unknown, and thus become famous for their invention. 
No matter in what grade or position in life these spatulate hands 
find themselves, they always in some form strike out for themselves, 
and assert their right to possess a marked individuality of their own. 

"A singer, actress, doctor, or preacher with such a development 
will break all rules of precedent— not by any means for the sake of 
eccentricity, but simply because they have an original way of looking 



238 BEAUTY A DUTY 

at things, and their sense of independence inclines them to resent 

suiting their brain to other people's ideas. It is from this hand that 

we get not only our great discoverers and engineers, but also the 

whole army of men and women we are pleased to call cranks, simply 

because they will not follow the rut made by the centuries of sheep 

that have gone before them. Such men and women with the spatulate 

hands are the advance agents of thought. They are, it is true, very 

often before their time; they are often wrong in the way they set 

about their work; but they are, as a rule, the heralds of some new 

thought or life that will, years later, give life to their fellow-men. 

' ' The name of this type explains itself, the 

The Knotty or word 'philosophic' being derived from the Greek 

Philosophic Hand 

Yig- 4 philos, loving, and sophia, wisdom. This shape 

of hand is easily recognized : it is generally long 
and angular, with bony fingers, developed joints, and long nails. As 
far as success in the form of wealth is concerned, it is not a favorable 
type to have ; it gleans wisdom, but rarely, if ever, gold. 

" People with such a type are, as a rule, students, but of peculiar 
subjects. They study mankind; they know every chord and tone in 
the harp of life ; they play upon it, and are gratified with its respon- 
sive melody more than the clink of coin. In this way they have as 
much ambition as other types of humanity only theirs is of a dif- 
ferent kind, that is all. They like to be distinct from other people, 
and they will go through all kinds of privations to attain their end ; 
but as knowledge gives power, so does the knowledge of mankind 
give power over man. Such people love mystery in all things. If 
they preach, they preach over the heads of the people ; if they paint, 
they are mystic; if they are poets, they discard the dramatic clash 



THE HANDS 239 

and color of life for the visionary similes and vaporish drapings of 
the spirit. 

"Cardinal Newman, Cardinal Manning and Tennyson were 
striking examples of this type. 

"With these hands, the developed joints are the peculiar char- 
acteristic of thoughtful people, while the smooth, pointed fingers are 
the reverse. Such hands are generally egotistical, which is in keep- 
ing with the life they lead. In character they are silent and secretive ; 
they are deep thinkers careful over little matters, even in the use of 
little words; they are proud with the pride of being different from 
others; they rarely forget an injury, but they are patient with the 
patience of power. 

"The conic hand, properly speaking, is medium- 

The Conic or sized, the palm slightly tapering, and the fingers full 

p. at the base and conic, or slightly pointed, at the tip 

or nail phalange. It is often confounded with the 

next type, the psychic, which is the long, narrow hand, with extremely 

tapering fingers. 

"The main characteristics of the conic hand are impulse and 

instinct. People with the conic hand are often, in fact, designated 

'the children of impulse.' There is a great variety in connection 

with this type, but it is more usually found as a full, soft hand, with 

pointed fingers, and rather long nails. Such a formation denotes 

an artistic, impulsive nature, but one in which love of luxury and 

indolence predominate. The great fault with people possessing this 

type is, that though they may be clever and quick in thought and 

ideas, yet they are so utterly devoid of patience and tire so easily, 

that thev rarely, if ever, carry out their intentions. Such people 
16 



240 BEAUTY A DUTY 

appear to their greatest advantage in company, or before strangers. 
They are good conversationalists, they grasp the drift of a subject 
quickly, but they are more or less superficial in knowledge, as also 
in other things; they have not the power of the student, through 
want of application; they do not reason, they judge by impulse and 
instinct. It is this quality which makes them changeable in friend- 
ship and affection; one can easily offend them over little things. 
They are also very much influenced by the people they come in con- 
tact with, and by their surroundings. They are impressionable in 
affaires de coeur; they carry their likes and dislikes to extremes; 
they are usually quick tempered, but temper with them is but a thing 
of the moment. They, however, when out of temper, speak their 
mind plainly, and are too impetuous to study words or expressions. 
They are always generous and sympathetic, selfish where their own 
personal comfort is concerned, it is true, but not in money matters ; 
they are easily influenced to give money for charity, but, alas ! here 
they have not the power of discrimination, consequently the money 
is given to anybody or anything which may rouse their sympathies 
at the moment. These hands never get that credit for charity which 
falls to the lot of the more practical types. To get credit for charity 
very often consists in saving what we give to the beggar and giving 
it to the church, but the conic fingers never think of that. The beggar 
comes, and if the impulse to give is there— well, they give, and that 
is all. 

"The most beautiful but the most unfortunate 

The Psychic or of the seven is what is known as the psychic. This 

Idealistic Hand ... „ , . , -, , ^„j 

p. 6 m its purity of type is a very rare hand to nnd. 

The name explains itself— that which appertains 



THE HANDS 241 

to the soul. The very word seems to suggest to one's mind the old 
fable of the envy of Venus toward the maiden Psyche— the war of 
the goddess of passion against the more spiritual charm of the 
daughter of the soul. 

"In its pureness of type it is a hard hand to find; nineteenth- 
century civilization does not encourage such rare flowers of lily 
whiteness and icy purity ; the calmness, coldness and dreamy chastity 
of such a type are not sought after by the present-day sons of the 
soil, whose heads are bowed in the quest for gold, and whose blood 
is heated by the closeness of the battle. But although the exact type 
may be hard to find, yet there are hundreds of men and women who 
so approach the psychic that they must be considered part of it, 
particularly when the customs that control our present-day life are 
taken into consideration. 

"The psychic is the most beautiful hand of all. It is in forma- 
tion long, narrow and fragile-looking, with slender, tapering fingers 
and long, almond-shaped nails. Its very fineness and beauty, how- 
ever, indicate its want of energy and strength, and one instinctively 
pities such hands if they have to try to hold their own in the battle 
of life. . 

"Individuals with the psychic hand have the purely visionary, 
idealistic nature. They appreciate the beautiful in every shape and 
form ; they are gentle in manner, quiet in temper ; they are confiding 
and they instinctively trust every one who is kind to them. They 
have no idea of how to be practical, business-like, or logical; they 
have no conception of order, punctuality, or discipline; they are 
easily influenced by others against their will, they are carried away 
by the strong rush of humanity. Color appeals to this nature in the 



242 BEAUTY A DUTY 

highest possible way; to some, every tone of music, every joy, every 
sorrow, every emotion is reflected in color. This type is unconsciously 
a religious one; it feels what is true, but has not the power to seek 
truth. In religion such people will be more impressed with the 
service, the music, and the ceremony than with the logic or truth of 
the sermon. They are innately devotional, they seem to dwell on 
the confines of the spiritual, they feel the awe and the mystery of 
life, without knowing why. All forms of magic and mystery attract 
them; they are easily imposed upon, and yet bitterly resent being 
deceived. These individuals have the intuitive faculties highly devel- 
oped; they are good as sensitives, mediums, clairvoyants, because 
they are more alive to feelings, instincts, and impressions than are 
their more matter-of-fact brothers and sisters. 

"Parents having such children generally do not at all under- 
stand how to treat them. The strange thing is that they are often 
the offspring of matter-of-fact, practical people. The only way in 
which I would account for such a fact is by the theory of balance; 
nature, working through hereditary laws, finds a point of balance 
by producing the direct opposite of the parent ; thus the law of reac- 
tion produces the type under examination. Alas! too often a tem- 
perament of this kind, by ignorance and stupidity of the parents, is 
forced into some business life, simply because the father is in busi- 
ness. The utter wrongness of the life so crushes and dwarfs the 
nature that very often the result of such environment is insanity or 
an early grave. There is no question but that the asylums of the 
world are largely filled on account of the utter inability of parents 
for such a position of responsibility ; and the sooner this fact is rec- 
ognized, the better. 



THE HANDS 243 

"Possessors of these beautiful, delicate hands, the indicators of 
the purely sensitive nature, usually feel their position in life so keenly 
that they too often consider themselves useless, and become morbid 
and melancholy in consequence. 

"They are as lilies thrown, by some ruthless hand, upon the 
tempest-tossed river of life— they seem so helpless in the onward 
sweep of that terrible current. One sees them at times clinging to 
the banks for pity. Ah! those beautiful hands have no strength; 
they are swept on again by the rising tide of bubbling, babbling, 
frothy humanity. 

"The mixed hand is the most difficult of all 

if. N to describe. It is so called because the hand can- 

Fig. 7 

not possibly be classed as square, spatulate, 
conic, philosophic, or psychic; the fingers also belong to different 
types— often one pointed, one square, one spatulate, one philo- 
sophic, etc. 

"The mixed hand is the hand of ideas, of versatility, and gen- 
erally of changeability of purpose. A man with such a hand is adapt- 
able to both people and circumstances, clever, but erratic in the 
application of his talents. He will be brilliant in conversation, be 
the subject science, art, or gossip. He may play some instrument 
fairly well, may paint a little, and so on; but rarely will he be great. 
When, however, a strong line of head rules the hand, he will, of all 
his talents, choose the best and add to it the brilliancy and versatility 
of the others. 

"Such hands find their greatest scope in work requiring diplo- 
macy and tact. They are so versatile that they have no difficulty in 
getting on with the different dispositions with which they come into 



244 BEAUTY A DUTY 

contact. Their most striking peculiarity is their adaptability to 
circumstances; they never feel the ups and downs of fortune like 
others ; almost all classes of work are easy to them. They are gen- 
erally inventive, particularly if they can thereby relieve themselves 
of labor. They are restless and do not remain long in any town or 
place. They are fond of new ideas : one moment they determine to 
write a drama, the next, perhaps, they invent a gas-stove or go into 
politics; but as they are always changing, and stable as water, they 
rarely succeed. 

' ' It must be remembered that when the palm belongs to a certain 
type these characteristics are much modified ; as, for instance, mixed 
fingers on the square, the spatulate, the philosophic, or the conic will 
often succeed where the pure development of the type would fail. 
When the entire hand is mixed it is then that, through versatility of 
talent and purpose, the subject is inclined to become 'Jack of all 
trades,' to which class of unfortunates the individual possessing this 
type of hand is so commonly relegated in works on palmistry. ' ' 

Whether the study of the hand can be reduced to a definite 
science or not, it certainly is an interesting study. 



Chapter VIII 
THE FEET 



No extremity of the body has more to do with its general health 
than the feet; no member is more dainty nor more beautiful than 
a healthy, well shaped, symmetrically curved foot, free from the 
many blemishes which are all too common nowadays, and which 
come from lack of hygienic care of the feet and from encasing them 
in shoes, which do not allow the free use of the muscles, nor admit 
of the evaporation of waste. 

Nature intended that the feet should be free and untrammeled 
but custom and environment say we shall stiffly encase them. Ever 
since sandals ceased to be worn, back in the fifteenth and seventeenth 
centuries, we have gone on following Fashion's dictates, trying to 
improve upon Nature and her methods and violating her laws, until 
there is probably no part of the body so systematically abused and 
neglected as the feet. 

There is no doubt but that the most sensible foot 

G covering was the sandal shoes, worn some centuries ago ; 

they gave freedom, air, health and strength to the feet,— 

not only by allowing freedom of movement but, also, by affording 

perfect circulation of air about them. Until women adopt a hygienic 

243 



246 BEAUTY A DUTY 

shoe, with proper ventilation about the foot, we shall continue to 
have the same difficulties that arise from clogged pores and unelim- 
inated impurities, due to poor ventilation and impeded circulation. 
The nearest approach to the sandal is the shoe, illustrated by 
Fig. 2, which opens almost to the toe and is strapped across the 
front. It is not now made for general sale. It can be made to order, 
however. The sandal shoes, which are on the market (Fig. 1), are 
made with light soles and such light, small heels, that they lose in 
one direction what they gain in another. Sandals are made with 
low heels for children. Is there any reason why a woman's foot 
should not be clothed as hygienically ? This shoe, shown in Fig. 2, 
can be made into graceful lines, with low heel and heavy sole,— it is 
then ideal. 

For walking, particularly, it is important that the sole be of suf- 
ficient thickness to prevent the uneven surface of the ground being 
felt, and for comfort and health it is vital that the heel of the shoe 
be of sufficient breadth, and project far enough under the instep 
arch of the foot, to receive the weight. A sensible sole and heel are 
indicated in Fig. 4. The projection under the inside of. the heel of 
Fig. 4, illustrated by Fig. 7, gives the desirable support to the arch 
of the foot. 

The extremely high heels not only make a woman 

High Heels look absurd, as she minces along on these little stilts, 

but they throw the entire body out of poise, thereby 

cramping the pelvis, and bringing on many pelvic weaknesses, so 

common among women, young and old. 

High heels bring a strong strain upon the stomach and abdominal 
muscles and upon the spinal column, affecting the entire nervous 



THE FEET 247 

system; they also cause a slight misplacement in the pelvis and in 
the knee joints. If habitually worn they will shorten the ligaments 
and weaken the muscles of the calves of the legs, resulting in an 
ungraceful walk. 

The natural position of the foot, in standing, is illustrated by 
Fig. 5. When this foot is encased in a shoe with a "military heel," 
about an inch high (Fig. 6), it will be noted by the white line, show- 
ing the outline of the foot, that the weight of the body in walking 
must be supported too much on the toes. The effect upon the pelvic 
and abdominal organs, and upon the spine, is very bad, but not so 
bad as is the case of the French heel of Fig. 1. This French heel, if 
worn for walking, will surely result in uterine or ovarian weakness. 

Neither is the French heel desirable for dancing; it is not 
tolerated by the best dancing masters. For rhythm of dancing, as 
well as of walking, every muscle of the foot and limb must be free. 

The heels of walking shoes should be low and broad, to give a 
firm and steady support to the foot; then, if the shoe be properly 
fitted, in other particulars, and be made of soft, pliable leather, there 
is no reason why a perfect flexibility of the foot cannot be maintained. 

Patent leather, though much worn, is usually stiff, retarding the 
circulation through the feet. It will draw the feet more than the 
ordinary leather, as it is less porous, admits of less ventilation, and 
is less pliable. 

A foot to be well dressed, must be comfortably 

\^ell- dressed 

F dressed. Surely footwear looks much better to be suf- 

ficiently large and to conform fairly well to the natural 
shape of the foot in the beginning; then after it has been worn a 



248 BEAUTY A DUTY 

short time, the uppers will not stretch over the soles, and the shoe 
be twisted out of shape. 

A shoe, with sole and heel, as illustrated in Fig. 4, is a God- 
send to fleshy women, to those who walk much, or to those who must 
stand on their feet much. 

Ill-shapen feet suggest ignorance and lack of care,— the reverse 
of comfort, refinement and intelligence. 

When the foot is fitted properly, the shoe should be about three- 
fourths of an inch longer than the foot, as there is a tendency for 
the foot to move forward in the shoe when walking. When shoes 
are worn either too short or too narrow, they cramp the toes, impede 
the circulation and restrict freedom of movement; the joints are 
pressed out of place, and corns, bunions, ingrowing nails and many 
other evils are induced. These evils also result from wearing high- 
heeled shoes, of which one side of the heel has worn off, thus twisting 
the shoe out of shape. 

Many defects of bodily grace and 
D , t d G development can be traced to ill-fitting 

shoes. An ungainly walk is often caused 

by a painful corn or bunion, and the habit once formed is hard to 
break. 

An uneven development of the shape and size of the hips, may 
come from a shoe that is too tight, or a corn, bunion or other foot 
blemish, which has made it necessary to favor one foot, causing the 
other foot to be used more strongly and the hip to develop 
accordingly. 

There should be perfect flexibility of the foot when walking, and 
this is not possible if the foot is encased in a shoe that cramps the 
toes and joints, or causes constant friction at some point. 








l^v^ 




THE FEET 249 

Many people limp slightly or find that one limb is longer than the 
other, as a result of a corn or bunion at some earlier period of life. 

Few people use the ball of the foot freely in walking, thus get- 
ting the spring in the instep, because the ball or the toes have at 
some time been painful and have therefore been favored, until a 
wrong habit of walking has been established. The free strength of 
all foot and leg muscles is necessary for a graceful, free walk. 

Therefore, for grace of movement and perfection of develop- 
ment, as well as for health, the utmost care should be exercised in 
an untrammeled clothing of the feet. 

The framework of the human foot is made up of 26 bones, 
arranged to allow freedom of all the joints of the toes, the ball of 
the foot and the ankle. The bones are held together at the joints 
by ligaments of great strength, each joint allowing a certain amount 
of motion, making the structure of the foot pliable and very strong. 

It is necessary also that there should be a certain elasticity of 
the arch of the foot and a freedom of the ankle joints to prevent a 
jarring of the body in walking, and if the weight of the body be 
adjusted properly over the arch of the foot, this elasticity will be 
maintained and the ligaments will never become relaxed. 

It is impossible to walk gracefully when stilted on the toes as 
in Figs. 1 or 6. 

If a woman wears a shoe too narrow, the weight cannot be 
thrown forward to the balls of the feet, without pain and discomfort, 
and she is forced to walk flat-footed to ease the cramped toes; this 
causes her to come down upon her heels* with a jar at each step, often 
throwing the more delicate, pelvic organs out of position, and some- 



250 BEAUTY A DUTY 

times resulting in broken arches. The latter is especially true when 
the shoe is both too short and too narrow. 

Mothers should exercise great care in the selec- 
Children's Shoes tion of shoes for children. Many times a child is 
helplessly put into shoes that in no way fit the out- 
line of the foot, being either too long or too short, too wide or too 
narrow. Shoes should be selected sufficiently large to allow of per- 
fect freedom and development, but not large enough to produce fric- 
tion or irritation. One extreme is quite as detrimental as the other, 
as constant friction from shoes too large or too small, will develop 
corns, bunions and calluses, while a shoe that cramps the foot will 
press the larger joints out of place, deform the toe joints and gen- 
erally distort the shape of the foot. 

The feet should be shapely in contour and just as free from pain 
and deformities as the hands, and they will be, when we learn to 
care for them properly and clothe them hygienically. 

Many do not realize the necessity for frequent 

"' , „ . ' change of both shoes and hose. The latter should 

and Hosiery ° 

be changed daily, for they become clogged with 
impurities emitted from the pores of the feet and with germ-laden 
dust from the streets. This irritates the feet by depriving them of 
the amount of oxygen necessary for proper circulation about the 
glands. Many times when the feet are tired and irritated, great 
relief will be obtained by putting on a fresh, clean pair of hose and 
a different pair of shoes. 

Damp hosiery is death to a good complexion. 

The same pair of shoes should not be worn on consecutive days, 
but several pair, (at least two), should be worn "change about," 



THE FEET 251 

giving each pair in succession a chance to become thoroughly aired 
and ventilated. 

Rubber heels are much worn to prevent any jar when walking, 
but if one learns to walk properly, rubber heels are not necessary, 
for the weight is not borne by the heel. 

Rubbers should never be worn indoors, as they restrict the nec- 
essary ventilation. 

Hosiery should be selected carefully and 
Selecting Hosiery with as few seams as possible, as the pressure 
of a seam will often develop a painful corn or 
callus. 

Cotton hose are preferable to silk or wool, as they absorb 
the moisture more readily. It is well to avoid the very cheap, col- 
ored hose, for they very often contain a coloring matter that will 
irritate and poison, especially should there chance to be an abrasion, 
such as a scratch or bruise on the foot. By washing new hose before 
wearing, such danger will be avoided. 

The extent to which the body depends upon the 
Ventilation breathing of oxygen through the pores, is demon- 
strated by the fact that if all air be kept from the body, 
even though the lungs be allowed free use, the result, after a few 
hours, is death. This was accidentally demonstrated, a number of 
years ago, at a pageant in which, as a drawing feature, a little boy 
was completely encased in a coating of tar and then covered with 
gold leaf to represent a cherub. This admitted of no air circulating 
about the body, hoarded all the body toxins, which should be thrown 
from the skin, and resulted, in a few hours, in the boy's death. 

No other cause could be ascribed for the fatality, excepting that 



252 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the pores of the skin had been closed against the natural elimination 
of body poisons through the skin and the oxygen, which is naturally 
breathed in through the pores, was restricted. 

Many other experiments have demonstrated, beyond a doubt, that 
the skin is a part of the breathing apparatus of the body and mate- 
rially aids the lungs in supplying the oxygen necessary to carry on 
the body's metabolism— (the power which the body possesses of using 
up and renewing the matter composing it). 

There is a shoe now being manufactured, which allows fresh air 
about the foot, and has a heavy sole for protection. The air enters 
the space beneath the sole through a tube which extends through the 
top of the heel. The sole is perforated with a row of holes, which 
permit the air to enter the inside of the shoe. 

The growing tendency toward low shoes, oxfords and pumps, 
with low heels, is a movement in the right direction. Let us hope 
that the high shoe, with leather tops, which allows no circulation up 
to twelve to fifteen inches above the ankle, may soon be a thing of 
the past. The gaiter over the ankle in winter may not be as neat, but 
it is porous, warmer and altogether more hygienic. 

Caution should be used in exposing the feet unduly, if one is 
delicate. The habit of dressing the feet too tightly and not allowing 
proper ventilation about them, makes them more susceptible to 
atmospheric changes than the hands. 

Above all things keep the feet warm and comfortable and remem- 
ber that this result will be brought about not by over-heating the 
feet, but by keeping a good circulation around them, the skin soft 
and the hosiery dry. Warmth, comfort and a good circulation 
gained through freedom, mean absorption and evaporation of 
moisture. 



THE FEET 253 

The feet aid greatly in the very important 

Elimination of Waste _ - _. . . ,, , , 

Th h th F function ot eliminating waste trom the body, 

providing they are cared for properly. The 
sweat glands, which play so important a part in this elimination, 
thus aiding and relieving the kidneys and intestines, are most numer- 
ous in the soles of the feet and palms of the hands, indicating that 
nature intended these extremities to be unrestricted. There are 
about 2,700 sweat glands to the square inch on the sole of the foot, 
while in the face there are only 550 to the square inch. 

It is computed that the average person in health excretes about 
two quarts of waste daily through all the sweat glands, this quantity 
being almost equal to that excreted by the kidneys. For this reason, 
perspiration should never be checked, for by so doing there is liability 
of causing congestion of internal organs. 

If this elimination be impeded by an accumulation of dirt, dust, 
dried perspiration or unshed cuticle, the pores, which are vents for 
all skin glands, become clogged; the glands cannot emit their poison- 
ous waste matter and the result is noticeably manifest in the com- 
plexion ; in a disagreeable odor thrown off by the feet ; and frequently 
in the appearance of rheumatism, gout and other diseases. These 
diseases are caused by waste salts and acids being deposited instead 
of being freely thrown from the system by the kidneys, intestines, 
skin and lungs. 

Moreover, if elimination through the pores 
u t u p t °^ ^ e *" ee * ^ e i m P ec *ed, as above stated, addi- 

tional labor is thrown upon the kidneys and 
the pores in other parts of the body; they are thus overloaded and 
cannot throw off the waste fast enough. This results in choking and 



254 BEAUTY A DUTY 

clogging the over-worked ducts. The effects are almost immediately 
noticeable in a muddy, or sallow complexion, or in facial blemishes, 
such as pimples, blackheads, etc. 

Indeed, if one is to have a clear skin, it is of the utmost impor- 
tance that the feet be bathed, daily, and cared for as regularly as 
the face or any other part of the body. The rational method of 
keeping the skin of the feet active is through bathing, massage, 
exposure of the feet to sun and air, and by friction with the hand, a 
flesh brush, or a Turkish towel. In fact, the word cleanliness covers 
the subject fully, and it behooves every one, who would be or appear 
in health, to pay sufficient attention to these matters and to realize 
and understand the value of a foot bath, of friction and of fresh 
hosiery, both in health and sickness. 

Any serious check to the passing away of the poisonous matter 
from the system has a serious effect upon the deeper structure of 
the body. 

The extreme sensitiveness of the feet to 

Nervousness Caused , . , , , . . . , 

b F t T hi heat, cold, constriction, pressure, etc., is due 

to the presence of many nerves. These are so 

closely spread over every portion of the sole of the foot, that the 

point of the finest needle cannot be touched to the sole without its 

being directly over a little nerve. Consequently, any disturbance 

in the feet is quickly transmitted by these sensitive nerves to the 

entire nervous system. A sudden pain in the foot will cause one to 

gasp and catch for breath, due to a response of other nerves and to 

the nervous reaction. The effects are visible in a tense, drawn 

expression of the face, but in a still more serious tenseness of the 

nerves to the vital organs, to the heart, stomach, bowels, liver and 



THE FEET 255 

kidneys. They cannot perform their functions with freedom when 
their supply of blood, restricted by the nerve tension, is thus 
restricted. 

So close is the nervous association between the feet and other 
parts of the body, that neuralgia and fatigue are often relieved by 
a warm foot bath; in fact, perfect comfort in the feet sends a cor- 
responding feeling of refreshment through the whole body. 

One should not overlook the importance of bringing the feet 
into actual contact with mother earth. The magnetic contact of the 
nerves of the feet with the earth is very beneficial, and those living 
in the country, or where they have access to a grassy lawn or park, 
should, during the summer, improve every opportunity to walk upon 
the grass in bare or stockinged feet. 

Massage of the feet is very soothing to the 

Effect of Massage , „ .,1,1 

U th F nerves and creates a sympathy with other organs. 

The magnetic contact of the palm of the hand 
with the sole of the foot is most grateful, particularly if this massage 
be gently administered. A bit of vaseline should be used in the mas- 
sage, as it is both lubricating and healing. 

Massage the sole with the palm of the hand, rubbing toward the 
heel to stimulate venous and lymph circulation and toward the toes 
to draw off nervous affections and to stimulate arterial circulation. 
Care should be taken to massage firmly toward the heart, for the 
circulation, and lightly and soothingly toward the extremities for 
the nerves. 

In massaging the feet, even though there be tenderness and 
corns, do not be afraid of manipulating the toes freely. Work them 
around in all directions, and massage with vaseline between the toes. 

17 



256 BEAUTY A DUTY 

This stimulates circulation, lubricates the skin and helps, to carry 
away inflammation and impurities. It will be found restful to the 
entire body, as well. 

Various diseases are diagnosed from symp- 

Diseases Expressed . ,., • ji n i • * , 

Th h th P t toms which appear in the teet,— m tact, some 

diseases are first detected by disturbances here. 

No doubt, the organ, which expresses its derangement in the feet 
in the most pronounced manner, is the kidney. Dropsical tendencies, 
especially, are shown here early in the development of the disease. 
Dyspepsia, rheumatism and gout will cause a dry burning sensation 
in the feet, and enlarged and inflamed joints. 

Impeded circulation through the feet and dropsical tendencies 
are often indicated by the swelling of the limbs above the shoe tops. 

See that all instruments, such as knives or 

Instruments for the . . . „ 

/-. r ^ -c scissors used m cutting corns, calluses, etc., 

Care of the Feet & 

are carefully cleaned and sterilized by immers- 
ing the blades in boiling water before using ; or they may be steril- 
ized by dipping them in a mild solution of about 10% carbolic acid; 
then dry them thoroughly with a clean cloth, to prevent them from 
rusting. 

All instruments should be used with utmost care to avoid the 
danger of scraping or cutting too deeply into the flesh. If by any 
chance you cut the flesh deep enough to draw blood, bathe the part 
affected in a solution of boracic acid or with peroxide of hydrogen 
to prevent infection. It is, well to have a bottle of each of these anti- 
septic solutions on hand for they are useful in so many emergencies. 

For the boracic acid solution put two teaspoons of boracic acid 
into a pint of distilled water, bottle it and keep ready for use. The 
peroxide may be used clear. 



THE FEET 257 

The nails of the feet should be looked after just as carefully as 
those of the hands. A few well selected instruments will make it 
possible for one to keep the feet in comfortable condition, without 
the necessity of depending upon the chiropodist. 

The following instruments are all that are needful for ordinary 
operations : 

A pair of nail nippers, strong, and with a spiral spring, are 
excellent for cutting the toe nails. These are the same as those used 
for the nails of the hands. 

The round, blunt end of the chisel knife may be used for soft 
corns. This knife is only convenient for fine work and cannot be 
used on calluses or nails. 

A pair of tweezers is convenient for handling small pieces of 
medicated cotton or for lifting bits of cuticle that need to be removed. 

An emery board or a pumice stone is needed to remove cal- 
luses and to smoothe corns after treating, but if the feet are daily 
cared for, according to above directions, there will be no calluses 
nor corns to remove. 

A good pair of shears, similar to manicure scissors, only 
stronger, made of steel, and with bent blades, is needed for trimming 
the nails and for removing dead cuticle or calluses. 

The scalpel is one of the most useful instruments and is a knife 
which can be used for many purposes in caring for the feet. It 
should be of the best steel, so that it will not be affected by acid. 
It is a long blade with single edge and can be used for scraping the 
nails, removing calluses, corns, etc. 

Cuban clay makes a splendid hone for sharpening all instru- 
ments, — a stone about two inches wide and four inches long being 
the best size. 



258 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Common Diseases of the Feet 

The diseases which affect the feet most commonly are : 
Corns (hard and soft), Mai-Odors, Bunions, 

Calluses, Chilblains, Fissures, 

Ingrowing toe-nails, Excessive Perspiration. 

Corns are caused by pressure or friction of ill- 
Hard Corns fitting shoes. When a hard corn forms, there is a 
thickening of the epidermis, with a small point or 
projection on the under surface, somewhat resembling an inverted 
cone. Any pressure will push this little point inward and down into 
the dermis, often causing great pain by pressure upon, and irrita- 
tion of the sensitive nerve ends. 

A loose shoe will develop a corn by the constant friction or rub- 
bing of the toe against the shoe, while a tight shoe will produce a 
corn by constant pressure. Ill-fitting stockings will also produce 
corns. 

Soft corns usually develop between the toes, most 
Soft Corns frequently between the fourth and fifth, though they 
sometimes form between the third and fourth. They, 
also, are caused by pressure and friction,— the former by the head 
of one of the phalanges pressing against the next toe. The continued 
pressure and irritation causes a thickening of the epidermis, and as 
it separates from the dermis, it forms a blister, which is covered 
with a white or yellowish skin. Such corns are often more painful 
than corns on the outside. 

Many times soft corns are so painful as to cause nausea. They 
are never very deeply rooted, but as they are subjected to a continued 



THE FEET 259 

pressure, they lie rather flat. Being continuously softened by macer- 
ation, they are of a consistency similar to India rubber and so not 
easily removed with the ordinary knife. 

Unpleasant or strong odors constantly 
Mai-Odorous Feet thrown off by the feet are caused by an excess 
of perspiration, which scalds the skin and causes 
the pores to become diseased. This odor is not necessarily due to 
uncleanliness, but to a weak condition of the skin of the feet, and 
constant bathing, alone, will not eradicate the difficulty nor remove 
the cause. Special treatment for the disease is necessary. 

Those so afflicted should leave no stone unturned to correct the 
disease, and, in consideration for friends and associates, should be 
most particular in the daily change of hose and shoes. 

In ordinary cases of enlarged or dislocated 
Enlarged Joints joints, when there are no complications, a cure can 
be effected, if properly fitting shoes be worn, and 
the joint treated carefully at home. In most complicated cases treat- 
ment by a competent chiropodist will be necessary. 

Enlarged joints caused by rheumatism or gout can be somewhat 
reduced and the pain relieved by hot foot baths, but the enlargement 
cannot be entirely eradicated until the cause be removed. If of long 
standing these enlargements are seldom, if ever, removed. 

Hot water reduces the inflammation and softens the chalky mat- 
ter deposited in the joints. 

Rheumatic gout originates in the blood and produces a swelling 
of the joints similar to a bunion, by depositing quantities of a chalky 
substance, which has failed of elimination through proper channels, 
in the joints of both fingers and toes., often increasing the thickness 



260 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of the joints to painful proportions. Rheumatism is also a systemic 
disease and, like gout, produces enlarged joints, but usually attacks 
the larger ones, while gout affects the smaller ones. The intense pain 
accompanying both is caused by inflammation of the muscles. 

Dislocated joints must not be confused with 
Dislocated Joints bunions or enlarged joints. They can be cured if 
properly treated, but if neglected until the con- 
dition becomes chronic, pus is liable to form and the joint will dis- 
charge its lubricating fluid through a wound caused by the pus forma- 
tion. This will eventually stiffen the joint; the only relief, then, 
is by surgery. 

An excessive or acid state of perspiration, indicates 
Fissures an inactivity of the kidneys. The impurities are not being 

properly thrown off through these organs. When the 
perspiration is in this state, it will often cause fissures or cracking 
of the skin between the toes. This is usually very painful but can 
be remedied by first getting the kidneys in an active, healthy condi- 
tion, by strengthening them through proper exercise and by drinking 
plenty of water. Sometimes the fissures are caused by not carefully 
washing or drying between the toes. 

A bunion is an inflammation of the subcutaneous sac 
Bunions which protects and lubricates the walls of the bone and 

joint at the base of the toe. Constant pressure or fric- 
tion causes inflammation of this little sac, (or bursa as it is properly 
called), with all its attendant symptoms of pain, heat, swelling and 
redness. The inflammation, pain and swelling usually last for three 
or four days, with a period of a few days between the attacks. Fre- 
quently all attempts to cure it are unsuccessful and the inflammation 



THE FEET 261 

leads to the formation of an abscess, and sometimes to the destruc- 
tion of the bone, when a surgical operation, alone, will give relief. 
Sometimes the healing of this abscess obliterates the bursa, or sac, 
and in this way removes the cause of the trouble. 

Usually, as a bunion enlarges and the swelling increases, the 
pores on the surface close, and little corns cover its surface. It is 
the pressure of these little hard corns, against the nerves under- 
neath, that causes the great pain. 

In most cases, the cause can be traced to ill-fitting shoes or 
stockings, but more often to the former as they cause continued 
pressure and friction upon the joint at the base of the big or 
little toe, but more frequently on the former. Unless this cause is 
removed and the shoes adapted to the feet, to prevent pressure and 
friction, the relief will never be permanent. Any enlargement at 
these points is usually called a bunion. Dislocated or enlarged joints 
are brought on by practically the same causes, and in appearance 
resemble a bunion, but the treatment for relief would be quite 
different. 

Club nails usually grow very thick and brittle, also 

Club Nails to considerable height and length, and will become hard 

as bone. They may be caused by a shoe which is not full 

enough in the uppers, or by a pressure of one that is too short. 

Sometimes they are caused by accident to the nail or to the toe. 

An incorrect maner of walking, combined with the 
Flat Foot wearing of shoes that are so short as to prevent a natural 
spring through the instep, will in time cause the liga- 
ments to become inelastic, the arch to flatten and the result to be 



262 BEAUTY A DUTY 

what is known as flat, or splay foot. Fleshy persons, who walk 
incorrectly, are often troubled with flat foot, owing to the superflu- 
ous weight brought to bear upon the heel instead of upon the ball, 
thus not properly using the ligaments in the instep. 

Many cases of flat foot are caused by deficient nourishment and 
circulation. This weakens the general health and if there is a pro- 
longed use of the feet, as in standing or walking, the result will often 
express itself in a flattening of the arches. 

If attended to in time, "flat foot" can be prevented, but once 
the arches become entirely broken down, they can rarely, if ever, be 
built up again. 

An iron plate or a cork support is often used to hold up the 
arch of the foot, but while these help to support the center of the 
arch, they do not support the pillars or sides. A trouble of this 
nature should be treated by an Orthopedist just as soon as it asserts 
itself, so that suffering may be avoided. 

Chilblains occur when some part of the foot has 

Chilblains and , ,. ., . . , . , 

F o t B't been exposed to severe cold for a continued period 

of time and when the cold has not been quite intense 
enough to congeal the blood. They develop most frequently when 
the blood is anaemic ; if, therefore, there is a tendency to a recurrence 
year after year, attention should be given to building up the general 
health. 

If the foot is exposed to heat, when in a chilled condition, the 
sudden change of temperature will also cause chilblains. It is inad- 
visable to hold cold or damp feet near a hot register, radiator or 
stove. Let them warm gradually. 



THE FEET 263 

Cold and " clammy" feet indicate poor circula- 
Clammy Feet tion and general debility; they are often caused by 
weak nerves, indigestion, constipation and torpid 
liver. External applications will give but temporary relief,— the 
cause must be reached and removed. In health, the feet usually give 
little trouble. 

Sometimes there is a tendency of the nail to grow 
Nails down into the flesh at the corners. This can be pre- 

vented by notching the nail in the centre of the top, 
which will allow the sides to grow rather long and toward the centre 
rather than outward toward the corners. By keeping the nail in 
the heart-shape above described, permanent relief can be brought 
about. If merely notching the top does not bring relief, the center 
may be scraped from base to end. Being thus weakened the center 
of the nail will be depressed and the sides will rise from the flesh. 
In scraping, be careful not to penetrate to the quick. 

Ignorance and lack of attention in caring for the 
_ N .. toe nails will bring on as many painful and annoying 
difficulties as carelessness in other details of foot 
hygiene. The nails of the feet should receive almost as careful and 
as frequent attention as those of the hands. There are very few 
persons who realize this, or who possess even fairly well-kept toe 
nails. Much the same method of precedure for manicuring should 
be followed for pedicuring. 

The manner in which a toe nail should be cut is considered of 
little importance to the average person, when, in fact, it is of the 
greatest importance, as a badly trained nail will invite just such 
difficulties as the ingrown above described. Differently shaped nails 
should be trimmed differently. For example: if the nails are flat 



I can help this condition most directly by my Course of Remedial Exercises. 



264 BEAUTY A DUTY 

they should be cut straight across and even with the ends of the toes. 
When they are oval, they should be rounded somewhat at the corners, 
but never cut to a point. The shape of the nail should follow that 
of the toe. 

Foot baths may be of any desired temperature, but 

Foot Baths when taken cold, the feet should be exercised constantly 

while in the water. Shallow cold baths, of 10 or 15 

minutes duration, will often prevent habitual cold feet. They will 

promote good circulation and aid in preventing colds. 

Hot foot baths will often afford relief from headache, tooth- 
ache, colds and neuralgia, also from ailments caused by deranged 
nerves or obstructed circulation, showing the effect the care of the 
feet has upon the general health. 

A sudden transition of the feet from hot to cold water is most 
beneficial to the skin and whole system, because of the stimulating 
effect upon the nerves and upon the circulation and the hardening 
and strengthening effect upon the skin. 

If the feet are plunged into a cold bath, the effect is at once 
noticeable in the increased action of the kidneys, thus showing the 
definite relation between the excretions of kidneys and skin and the 
necessity of keeping each in a normal condition that the other may 
not be overloaded. 

In the case of a cold bath, the pores of the skin are suddenly 
closed, and the necessity of throwing off the waste immediately is 
shown in the immediate action of the kidneys, thus showing the 
importance of keeping the pores of the skin open or the kidneys will 
be overworked; the action also demonstrates the stimulation of the 
vital organs through the cold bath. 



THE FEET 265 

When the feet and the body are immersed in cold water for a 
few moments and then rubbed briskly to bring about an immediate 
reaction, the vital organs and deeper tissues are stimulated and 
flooded with blood; this results in nourishment and tone,— unless the 
heart be too weak to react. Consequently, in normal health, or in 
cases where vital organs are torpid, the cold bath is very beneficial. 

,If the pores of the feet or other parts of the skin be kept closed 

for too long a period, the poisons, which should be eliminated through 

them, overload the mucous linings of the other organs and in their 

effort to throw off an abnormal share, they are weakened and the 

result is the condition we term "a cold." The importance of normal 

elimination through the feet is emphasized by the fact that if one 

sits for a few hours with damp feet, which means closed pores, the 

result is almost sure to be "a cold," which is simply another word 

for hoarded poisons, not able to escape from the body. 

Sea shore bathing is of great value, not only 
Sand or Salt Bath , »,.,,»,, 

for the Feet sottening the feet, but because of the friction 

produced by the sand, which scours off calluses 
and cleanses and opens the pores. While bathing slippers pro- 
tect the sole of the foot, they also retard its free movement and 
prevent its healthful contact with the sand. Sunning the feet in the 
sand after a bath is particularly helpful. 

Salt will answer the same purpose for scouring calluses and 
opening pores and stimulating circulation and it has a tonic effect 
upon the nerves. An excellent practice is to keep a dish of salt in 
your bath room, and after your bath rub the feet thoroughly with it. 

See that the sand or salt does not remain between the toes. 



266 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Daily Care of the Feet 

Each morning, in conneeton with your bath, bathe the feet in 
cold water and after drying them thoroughly rub briskly with a little 
salt, a flesh brush or coarse towel, being particular to remove all the 
loose cuticle from every part of the foot. 

In wiping the feet, wipe thoroughly between the toes and run 
the fingers two or three times between the toes, for the soothing effect 
upon the nerves. 

Wipe each nail, across and backward with a firm touch. This 
helps to prevent the cuticle from growing over them, and from accu- 
mulating cuticle cells on their surface, causing them to thicken. 

Each evening, if no special care of the feet is necessary for 
the relief of corns, bunions or similar difficulties, it is well to 
bathe them, first in warm water, then in shallow cold water; then 
after drying rub them thoroughly with salt or a stiff flesh brush. If 
the feet be not bathed at night, they should be rubbed in this manner, 
so as to remove all of the loose cuticle and to dry the perspiration, 
particularly between the toes. Then take the ball of the foot between 
the palms of both hands and work all of the joints free, rubbing 
between the toes with the fingers. This will have a soothing effect 
upon the entire body. There is nothing much more soothing than 
the palm of the hand in contact with the nerves of the feet. 

Once a week, preferably in connection with your cleansing bath, 
bathe the feet in warm water and after the warm bath, massage them 
thoroughly, as directed under " Massage," and rub vaseline into 
them, being particular to work between the toes. 

At this weekly cleansing, scrape with the scalpel or rub with a 



THE FEET 267 

pumice stone any calluses which may be forming on any part of the 
feet, trim the toe nails carefully, remove all of the loose cuticle from 
under and around the sides of the nail with the orange stick; push 
the cuticle back from the surface of the nail at the base. In fact, 
"pedicure" the nails of the feet once a week, much the same as you 
manicure the nails of the hand and you will be abundantly rewarded 
in the good feeling which results. 

If corns, bunions or any diseases of the feet exist, these are best 
attended to at the time of the bath, unless my special directions for 
these specify some other time. 

For health as well as for cleanliness, the feet should receive 
systematic care. 



Don'ts for the Feet 

Don't forget that dainty feet are just as essential to refinement 
as are dainty hands. 

Don't forget that a good fitting shoe is one of the essentials for 
healthy, well-shaped feet. 

Don't wear a shoe that is too large or too small as it causes fric- 
tion or pressure. 

Don't be a fashion plate and mince along on heels that resemble 
stilts. 

Don't forget that high heels affect the spine, pelvic and abdom- 
inal organs, nerves and temper. 

Don't forget that the warmth and comfortable feeling of the feet 
depend upon the activity of the pores, good circulation and the 
absorption of moisture. 



268 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Don't forget that a well-shaped foot, although a trifle larger, is 
preferable to a small, ill-shapen one. 

Don't forget to change the shoes and stockings daily. (Your 
feet need fresh clothing as well as your body.) 

Don't neglect to bathe the feet daily; remember that cleanliness 
is a step toward Godliness, and certainly cleanliness of the feet is a 
step toward health. 

Don't forget that proper care of the feet soothes the nerves of 
the entire body. 

Don't forget that a good complexion often depends upon the 
care you give to the feet. 

Don't forget that the air should circulate about the feet. 



Chapter IX 
THE COMPLEXION 



The day has passed when a woman feels that she needs to 
apologize for developing her personal charms. These are just as 
much God-given as beauty of mind. 

Is it not just as elevating and refining to cultivate the beauty 
of natural curves, the gloss of the hair, the sea-shell delicacy of the 
skin, the pearliness of the teeth, the artistic taper of the fingers, the 
expressiveness of eyes and mouth and the daintiness of the feet, as 
to cultivate a taste for these expressions on canvas, or in marble? 
It is simply art expressed in a different form; it is using Nature's 
coloring in flesh and blood, instead of tinting with paint; it is 
changing the form of human flesh, instead of modeling in clay. 

One class of more frivolous women devote their entire time to 
thoughts of self, striving for a certain kind of beauty and attempting 
to express it through outward applications of paint, powder, hair 
dyes, hair washes, etc. They fail to realize the Truth in art,— to 
know that the veneer never gives the impression of the real,— that 
the clearness of skin and brightness of the eyes must be an expression 
of purity of blood and rested nerves,— that all of this comes from 
within and is first gained through attention to exercise, diet, breath- 



269 

'Character is powet — is influence; it makes friend* 

Creates funds, draws patronage and support, and opens a 

sure and easy way to wealth, honor and happiness. " 

—J. Hawes. 



270 BEAUTY A DUTY 

ing and rest. The veneer of powder is sometimes desirable to protect 
the real, but by the intelligent, it never is mistaken for it. 

The woman who fails to realize her ideal of beauty within her- 
self, detracts just so much from her influence. Beauty may be used 
as a more potent influence for good than for evil. 

The prettier a woman grows by cultivation of mind and body, 
the happier she is and the better opportunity she has of impressing 
upon others the beauty of her character and of wielding a most 
powerful influence. An attractive woman always wins a hearing and 
therefore is in better position to gain more advantages than the 
indifferent looking and carelessly groomed woman. 

The more beautiful a woman grows the younger she feels, the 
lighter is her heart and the greater her interest in creating a cor- 
responding atmosphere around her. She has the admiration of her 
family and friends and this in itself inspires her to rise to her best. 

Beauty of face and form and charm of manner are not only 
woman's privilege, but her duty because they educate, refine and 
uplift. Thus they are most potent agencies in usefulness; they 
"allure to brighter worlds and lead the way." 

One delightful privilege and duty, by common consent dedicated 
to women, is to educate and uplift by adding to the beauty of the 
world. 

Every woman's home is an expression of her artistic nature and 
of her refinement. Just so do the care she gives to her skin, the taste 
she uses in arranging her hair, the care exercised in manicuring her 
nails and in attending to the grace of outline and movement give 
expression in another form to this same culture and refinement. 
Every woman should be, herself, then, the highest expression of art 



THE COMPLEXION 271 

and education in her home. She should be a more refining influence 
than any picture she can buy to put upon her wall, or than any pre- 
text or theory she can express through the voice. Her very move- 
ment and bodily expression speak the thoughts of the silence in a 
thousand tongues. 

The expression of the face depends almost entirely 

E . upon the thoughts which play upon the nerves. The 

nerves in turn cause a muscular response and very 

subtle lights and shadows are produced upon the face by the most 

delicate tracery of lines caused by these nerves. 

If the same character of thought be persisted in regularly and 
systematically, for some time, the impulse will be carried through 
the same nerves and this impulse, thus retracing itself in the skin 
and muscular tissues, causes habitual lines of expression. If the 
skin be inelastic, wrinkles result. 

Despondenc}", discouragement and disagreeable, pessimistic 
thoughts express themselves in downward lines. (See Figs. 5 and 7 
of the illustration of the eyes and nose). Thoughts of cheer, good 
will, brightness and happiness, are conveyed by horizontal or up- 
lifted lines and the only way to change the facial expression of Figs. 
5 and 7 is to change the thought. By cultivating a more cheerful 
view of life and its possibilities, one's mental poise changes and, 
if the skin and facial muscles be flexible, the lines, which have 
been formed by past thoughts, will be eradicated. (See Figs. 8 
and 9). 

Exercise of the face will make the muscles more pliable and 
the proper care of the skin will keep it more elastic, so that the 
new thought may more readily fonn new lines of expression. To 



"Salute each opening day with glad good morning, be ft 
rosy daum or gray." 



18 



272 BEAUTY A DUTY 

realize how the thought will change the contour of the muscles one 
has but to stand before the mirror, let the brain force relax and think 
of all the discouraging, disagreeable thoughts possible; the facial 
muscles will droop, the jaw will relax, lines will form from the corners 
of the nose to the mouth, and from the corners of the mouth down- 
ward ; the muscles below the eyes will relax and this relaxation, with 
the weight of the relaxed muscles of the lower face, will cause the 
lines between the eyes and the drooping lines of the corners, as in 
Figs. 5 and 7. 

So much for the effect of thought, through the nerves, upon the 
muscles of the face. 

Again, let the muscles of the face relax to the expression of 
Figs. 5 and 7, with no effort at control of thought. Let them remain 
in this position for a few moments ; note the reflex action of this poise 
of the nerve extremities in the face upon the controlling nerve centers 
of the brain. You feel discouraged and disagreeable as you look. If 
this facial expression be held from habit until the lines become fixed, 
it affects the character.* 

The most definite agencies in thought expression are the mouth 
and the eyes. Note the lines of expression and read the character in 
accompanying illustrations. 

Everything depends upon our habit of looking upon cares. We 
may look upon them as duties to be undertaken cheerfully, with mind 
in poise, or we may meet them with a frown. 

One so often sees young girls frowning when crossed in very 
small matters. Many form the habit of frowning, each time a duty 
presents itself. Each disagreeable duty met with a smile is half 

* This subject of Reflex Action is fullv discussed and illustrated in the author's book upon "The 
Reading of Character Through Bodily Expression." 



THE COMPLEXION 273 

accomplished, and a great part of a child 's education is in the forma- 
tion of the habit of meeting disappointments with cheer. Ah! that 
each girl might learn to regard every duty in a happy light, remem- 
bering that the mental attitude and habit of looking at small things 
have a great influence in the shaping of her life; might meet each 
duty with a mind in poise to direct, rather than to be directed. 

The habit of a cheerful mental poise is a fortune to man or 
woman. 

The effect of a smile upon the face is wonderful, not only in its 
reaction upon one's own nerves, but in the influence it wields upon 
those we meet. A smile will call forth smiles from others. The habit 
of carrying a long, gloomy face is a sin,— a great sin, for it may cloud 
a whole day for someone who has come within my atmosphere. If 
my expression is not responsible for the gloom on the face I meet, 
then I should strive to dispel the gloom in the expression of that face 
by radiating sunshine from my own. 

Life is not a rushing, disagreeable, doleful duty. It is a happy, 
glorious, joyful privilege. Meet it with joy in your countenance, that 
the beholder may be reminded of its sweetness. As the facial expres- 
sion clears and the chest is uplifted, the clouds clear from the brain. 

A pleasing diversion at night, just before rest, is one of the 

strongest agencies in the cultivation of a happy facial expression. 
Merely smiling artificially, oven though the heart be heavy, has its 
effect upon the brain through the reflex action produced upon the 
nerves. Take the thought lines of the day from the face at night, 
by a few well directed massage movements; soften it with a little 
cold cream if needed, then smile and see if you do not feel more like 
smiling. Continue to smile and look pleasant for a few moments and 
note how the clouds disappear from brain and heart. 



"Each rising sun shall record a noble impulse. lu 
selling shall bless some helpful work begun." 



274 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is said that Patti, one of our best preserved beauties, has 
formed a habit of going to her room once a day and laughing for 
five minutes. It is true that we can, by holding a pleasing expression 
of the face for a few minutes each day, change the predominating 
expression which the cares of life bring. 



The Skin 

The care of the skin is a subject quite as important to those who 
would be well as to those who would be beautiful — it vitally concerns 
both. Nature's endowment of clearness, rosy warmth and velvety 
texture are simply expressions of the perfection of action of each 
vital organ, and the most skilled attempts at producing clear skin 
and rosy cheeks with paint and pencil, are known on the surface as 
attempts, and urgently deplored, not only because they are artificial, 
untrue, and savor of the effort to seem, rather than to be, but because, 
unless used intelligently, they are bitter enemies of health. 

A study of the skin will help one in the care of it. 

It is composed of the outer Scarf Skin, or Epidermis and the 
Dermis, or "True Skin," also called the Coreum. (See Fig 1, illus- 
trating growth of hair.) 

Including both the epidermis and the dermis, the skin varies in 
thickness from extreme thinness over the eyelids to an eighth of an 
inch wherever intermittent pressure is applied, as in the palms of 
the hands and over the soles of the feet. An idea of the thickness 
may be realized by noting the thickness of the two outer layers of 
the epidermis, which rise in a blister, yet these layers have been 
expanded beyond normal size, by the heat causing the blister. 



THE COMPLEXION 275 

The outer covering of the Scarf Skin, or Epi- 
S f Sk' dermis, consists of four very thin horny or scaly 

layers. The outer two layers, known as the Cuticle, 
are firm and close, presenting to the eye a smooth surface, yet, under 
the microscope, they resemble fish scales. The cuticle is so thin and 
flexible, and so lubricated by the natural oils of the body, that only 
in exceptional cases, such as calluses, is this horny character per- 
ceptible ; the scales are entirely shed in case of fever. While the two 
outer layers are smooth, the inner layers dip down in wave-like 
undulations over the papillas of the true skin. 

The cuticle is constantly being thrown off and new cells are con- 
stantly being formed from beneath; the outer cells of the true skin 
are daily changed in their composition, growing into the scarf scales 
and working nearer the surface all the time, until it becomes their 
turn to be cast off to give place to others forming beneath them. 

The True Skin, Coreuin, or Dermis, contains the 
or True Skin Papill* 6 * the Blood Vessels, the Lymphatics, the 
Sebaceous and Sweat Glands and Ducts, the Hair 
Follicles, the Fat Cells and the Nerves. 

When it is realized that all the glands and ducts enumerated are 
contained in from one-twelfth to one-eighth of an inch, one realizes 
how tiny these glands are, yet when we consider that the perspiration 
of one man, in a day, has been known to weigh forty pounds, we also 
realize how very numerous are the sweat glands, to say nothing of 
all the other little workers, each and every one performing some 
important part in building and keeping health. 

The true skin is much softer in texture than the scarf skin. It 
is composed of several layers of fine fibrous tissue and cells arranged 



276 BEAUTY A DUTY 

side by side like bricks in a wall, the cells being retained in position 
by a semi-fluid substance which fills the intervening though imper- 
ceptible spaces and holds the cells together. The deeper connective 
tissues gradually pass into the tissues beneath; the intervening spaces 
between the bundles of tissue are filled with fat cells— excepting in 
the eyelids. In animals, the fluid of the true skin forms gelatin when 
boiled. 

The cells, especially those in the outer part of the true 
in Sk' skin, contain the pigment or coloring matter. Sometimes 

this pigment works up into the deepest layer of the scarf 
skin, as in the negro. 

There is a diffused whitish-yellow pigment in the scarf skin 
which becomes darker in old age. 

The pigment diffuses and disappears when one is shielded from 
light, or kept in a darkened room, but soon reappears when exposed 
to the light. When it is uniform in all of the cells of the pigment 
layer, the effect is a uniformly dark appearance, as in the case of the 
skin of a negro. 

The rays of the sun, a mustard plaster or, in fact, heat of any 
kind, or irritation without heat, will increase the pigment and thus 
turn the skin dark. This darkening of the skin, as caused by inces- 
sant irritation, is shown in the dark lines about a woman's neck, 
occasioned by tight collars. 

From the fact that heat increases the pigment, it might be infer- 
red that a too frequent use of hot water or steam on the face would 
darken the skin. The furnace man's skin exposed to the heat, though 
shielded from the light, becomes deeply bronzed. The exposure to 
intense heat of the rays of the sun for generations has caused the 
dark complexions of the inhabitants of the tropics. 



THE COMPLEXION 277 

The pigment is also affected by the character of the blood supply. 
This has been illustrated by engrafting upon a white man the skin 
of a negro. The pigmentation is soon lost, while a white man's skin 
becomes pigmented if engrafted upon a negro. 

Generally speaking, the pigment of the skin partakes of the same 
depth of color as the pigment of the hair and eyes. The skin accom- 
panying dark hair and dark eyes is thicker and darker; that 
accompanying brown hair and gray eyes is medium in depth and 
thickness, and the skin accompanying light hair and eyes is thin and 
contains less pigment. In the latter class, the epidermis is often so 
transparent that the blood circulating beneath it imparts a tint of 
beauty. 

Beneath the Epidermis, constituting the outer- 
Q f t h mos ^ P ar t °f the true skin is a layer forming un- 

dulation-like waves called the Papillae. These 
undulations make a resisting stratum for blows and bring the vital- 
izing organs nearer the surface. 

The papillae are the organs of touch and may be seen with the 
naked eye in little ridges upon the soles of the feet and the ends of 
the fingers, which here take a curved direction, conforming to the 
shape of the fingers. 

It is the true skin of the animal which, when stripped of the 
epidermis and the hair, is converted into leather and the papillae are 
readily discernible in the uneven surface, with which we are all 
familiar, on the inner side of the leather. 

Just underneath the papillae is a network, or plexus, of tiny- 
nerve fibres ; these have their endings in peculiar little knobs in the 
ends of the papillae, which make them very sensitive to pressure, 
touch, temperature and pain. 



278 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Nerve ends also extend through the papillae into the cement 
between the cells of the true skin and the two inner layers of the 
scarf skin. These nerve extremities control the circulation at these 
points, and it will be shown later how they affect the complexion. 

The sensitiveness to touch varies greatly with different people 
and may be cultivated to a very high degree, as is the case with blind 
people, whose whole existence is guided by this delicate sensation. 

Each papilla is supplied with a tiny blood vessel which brings 
it nourishment. Intermeshed with the nerves about the lower papillae 
is also a network of tiny blood vessels, the termination of the vessels 
which supply the skin and carry away its waste. 

In the deepest layers of the skin tissues are larger 
Fat Cells cells containing fat globules. Their existence in normal 
proportion is essential to health and to beauty, as the fat 
cells nourish the skin, helping to supply the material for the natural 
oils, and they form a cushion for its protection. The fat cells, both 
in the skin and about the tissues, serve as reserve heat and energy. 
If for a period the body be not supplied with sufficient fat, that within 
these cells is called upon and in cases of starvation, wasting diseases, 
or all acute diseases attended by loss of tissue, as well as in mental 
strain or worry, which call for an undue expenditure of mental 
energy, the fat cells disappear to a greater or lesser extent, partic- 
ularly about the eyes. The skin in such cases becomes correspond- 
ingly flaccid or wrinkled, and the face thin. 

The waste matter which it is the office of the skin 
Sweat Glands to eliminate, passes out through the sweat glands, 

situated in the deeper layers of the true skin or 
beneath the skin. It is estimated that there are about two and one- 



THE COMPLEXION 279 

half millions of these. These glands coil and twist at their base, 
somewhat resembling little balls of twine. Ducts, or tiny tubes, reach 
from the glands to the surface of the skin, opening through trumpet- 
shaped mouths known as pores, which are sometimes visible to the 
naked eye. The impurities, together with the water from the system, 
which are exuded from these pores, are known as sweat. The sweat 
is composed of air, inorganic salts, urea and other waste products. 
Urea, broadly speaking, represents the proteids of the body. Sur- 
rounding each sweat gland is a dense network of capillaries which 
brings the impurities to the glands for elimination. 

The perspiration comes from the lymph spaces, in and about the 
skin ; it is carried to them by the blood. 

As a result of extreme heat, beads of sweat are often seen on 
the body at the opening of the pores. 

The other excretory organs are the kidneys, intestines and the 
lungs, but the kidneys and the sweat glands of the skin collect and 
eliminate most of the water and the proteid or nitrogenous waste of 
the system. In normal health the greater proportion of nitrogenous 
waste is eliminated by the kidneys, but with the skin in thoroughly 
healthy condition the sweat glands greatly aid the kidneys and relieve 
them of much of their work. 

When the perspiration is increased the amount of urea in the 
urine is decreased. If these impurities be not eliminated properly, 
they pass back into the blood and the acids collecting in the system 
may express themselves in rheumatism or gout; for this reason, 
vigorous exercise and sweat baths are advisable as relief from 
rheumatism and gout. In case of inflammatory rheumatism, the odor 
of the urea, eliminated through the skin, is readily detected. 



280 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The water, nitrogenous waste, carbonic acid gas, fatty acids, 
urea and small quantities of salt which should be eliminated, fluctuate 
in quantity from 2 to 40 pounds a day. It is said that gas stokers 
and engineers in the tropics often lose in perspiration from two to 
three pounds in an hour. 

Exercise affects the spinal nerves controlling the sweat glands 
and the greater the amount of physical exercise, the more the sweat 
glands accomplish. With but little exercise, as a rule, the kidneys 
are overloaded because of the failure of the sweat glands to eliminate 
their share of impurities. In excessive activity in athletics almost 
all liquid waste is thrown off through the pores of the skin. 

Profuse perspiration is always associated with simultaneous 
dilation of the blood vessels. 

Increase in the excretion of sweat occurs in easily excitable per- 
sons in consequence of the irritation of the nerves. 

The Sebaceous glands, which secrete the natural oils 
G1 , of the skin, are located in the deeper layers of the true 

skin, though generally not as deep as the sweat glands. 
They connect with the surface of the skin, as do the sweat glands, 
by small ducts which open into the hair follicles; they thus become 
the natural lubricants not only of the roots of the hair, but of the 
hair itself and they keep the hair soft. 

The Sebaceous glands are most frequent about the nose and 
many of the irritations and pimples upon the face are due to a clog- 
ging of these. 

The sebum, which is the term designating the contents of these 
glands, is fluid, but if the ends of the ducts are clogged and the sebum 
is prevented from discharging naturally, it becomes putrid, hardens 
and finally forms a white worm-like coil of fat. 



THE COMPLEXION 281 

If a gland of the face become clogged and pressure be applied 
to either side, a creamy-like substance will be forced out. The length 
of this substance as it is squeezed out gives one an idea of the 
length and size of the glands. 

Lanolin is prepared from the "recovered grease" extracted from 
raw sheep's wool. It forms an admirable basis for ointments and is 
readily absorbed by the skin. 

The excretion of the sebum continuously flows from the glands 
into the hair channels outward to the surface of the skin, where it 
sears over the surface, actually covering the skin with a thin coating 
of oil. This secretion is quite different from that of the perspiration 
and is hardly perceptible, except upon the hair, where it is secreted 
more freely. 

The oil prevents the water or atmospheric changes from 
quickly affecting the temperature of the body ; it also tends to prevent 
an undue loss of heat from evaporation. Bathing the skin with 
grease is adopted by swimmers both to conserve bodily heat and to 
protect the skin. 

The offices of the skin may be enumerated as : 
of th Sk' k Protection of the surface of the body and pro- 

tection and support within the body of the inner cover- 
ing of the internal organs; 

2. Elimination of impurities, perspiration and oily matter; 

3. Breathing ; 

4. Receiving sensations; 

5. Regulation of the body temperature ; 

6. Absorption of substances through the pores. 



282 BEAUTY A DUTY 

That the skin protects the surface, when it is the 
Protection surface, may seem a contradiction until we recall that 
the hair and nails are parts of the skin, being mere varia- 
tions in the form of actual skin tissue. Moreover, the outer skin is 
especially formed to protect the true skin and its more delicate struc- 
tures. The skin forming the lining of the digestive tract, the kidneys 
and the pelvic organs, acts not only as a protection to them, but as 
a support. 

The downy hair which entirely covers the surface of the body 
is a non-conductor and is its best protection against extremes of heat 
and cold. 

The construction of the skin, with its system of drainage into 
the air and its system of absorption of oxygen as a minor lung, with 
its nerves, dependent upon the air for stimulating friction, would 
indicate that Nature intended the body to be uncovered or so clothed 
as to admit of a free circulation of air about it. 

For the retention of the heat, fur, feathers, hair and wool, 
Nature 's covering for animals, are the best non-conductors, and thus 
best conserve the body heat; they are, therefore, the best clothing 
for the protection of the body against extremes of cold ; but linen or 
cotton should be worn next the skin to absorb the moisture. For this 
reason, where wool is required to conserve the body heat, if it is not 
practical to wear linen or cotton under the wool garments, these gar- 
ments should be made of part wool and part cotton. 

The oil from the sebaceous glands, which 
Th . . g ,. everywhere covers the skin, prevents the absorp- 
tion of water and foreign ingredients, yet under 
normal conditions a small quantity of oxygen is absorbed from the 



THE COMPLEXION 283 

air. Alcohol also penetrates the skin sufficiently to stimulate the 
nerves. 

Where it is desirable that the pores absorb a cream or skin food, 
the natural oil should be removed by warm water; then the skin 
should be massaged to free the glands. The oil merely penetrates 
these glands. 

Drugs, such as iodine, which affect the sensory nerves, are some- 
times painted over a painful area to create a counter irritation in 
the skin and near tissues. 

This is demonstrated by enclosing the body in an 

Breathing air tight sac. Remaining there for a time, it will be 

„, . found that the sac is filled with carbonic acid gas, that 

nearly all of the oxygen has been extracted from the 

air within it and absorbed by the body. 

It is a singular fact that the skin acts as secondary lungs; the 
pores of the skin draw in oxygen during the inhalation, as do the 
lungs and throw off waste during the exhalation. Animals varnished 
or coated with paint die very speedily, thus proving the importance 
of the skin as a breathing organ and heat regulator. 

On account of the heat producing agency of the oxygen, the body 
on the coldest day can be quickly warmed by a succession of full, 
deep breaths, each breath being held for a few seconds. 

The amount of oxygen taken in and the carbonic acid gas thrown 
off by the skin depends upon the amount of exercise and warmth. 
When the system is poisoned by carbonic acid gas, if systematic, 
daily exercise with deep breathing be followed, the pores of the skin 
will act more freely, the impurities will be eliminated through the 



284 BEAUTY A DUTY 

sweat glands and the carbonic acid gas will be thrown off, while the 
oxygen, the vitalizing force, will be absorbed. 

A frog breathes through the skin to such an extent that it will 
live for several days after the lungs have been removed. In man, 
respiration by means of the skin is more limited than in the frog, 
owing to the thickness of the dermis. 

The necessity of clothing the body so that the air may freely 
circulate about it will be readily seen. A place for daily exercise, 
screened from observation, where the body could be nude and exposed 
to air and light would dispense with many doctors' bills. 

• It may be well here to give a little outline of 

, , , ■ . the circulation of the blood and the use and neces- 
and Lymphatics 

sity of oxygen within the body, since both a free 
circulation and sufficient oxygen are most essential to the color, 
elasticity and health of the skin. 

Neither healing nor nourishment is ever carried to the skin, 
excepting through the blood ; and no lotion, no oil, no cream, no skin 
food nor prepared condiment possesses the same healing, nourishing 
qualities as does pure blood. A wound upon the flesh will heal much 
quicker if it remains immersed in its own blood. Many skins are 
undernourished, partly because the blood is impoverished, by a lack 
of nourishment in the food; partly by the failure of the system to 
digest or assimilate the food absorbed ; partly because the circulation 
through the capillaries and small blood vessels of the skin is retarded ; 
or because of insufficient breathing, hence insufficient oxygen to 
purify the blood. 

The blood capillaries are distributed over and through all 
the tissues of the body until in the skin, for instance, they form a 



THE COMPLEXION 285 

regular network around and about every fibre. They are so close 
that it would be impossible to prick the skin with the finest needle 
at any point without puncturing a capillary and thus drawing blood. 
The walls of the capillaries are very thin, so thin that the oxygen 
and the nourishing qualities of the blood ooze out into the lymph 
spaces. Here the nourishing qualities feed the tissues and the oxygen 
causes combustion of the waste ; the impure gases re-enter the capil- 
laries and then the veins. Other impure waste matter which cannot 
re-enter the capillaries is picked up by the lymph spaces and carried 
by the lymphatics into the venous stream.* 

The white liquid which exudes from a wound upon pricking the 
skin or from a sore, is lymph. 

Thus the blood, obtaining nourishment from the food and oxygen 
from the air, completely reaches the skin and every part of the 
organism, carrying its nourishment and vitalizing power to the \ 
extremities. Some idea of the waste which is continuously tl 
from the system may be realized by comparing the color of the 
impure, venous blood with the color of the pure arterial blood con- 
taining the oxygen. It must be recalled that the dark, impure blood 
in the veins is constantly being purified in the lungs and that much 
waste must be constantly picked up, to keep its hue so dark. 

The relation between the condition of the blood and the character 
of nourishment which it, therefore, brings to the skin will be readily 
seen. 

If the digestive organs are weak, so that the food is not put in 
proper condition to be absorbed, or if there is an insufficient activity 
of the body tissues to insure complete assimilation— conversion of 

♦Miss Cooroft's Book upon "The Circulatory System " traces the circulation of the blood in its Journey 
out to the capillaries of the skin and its return, laden with impurities, to the lungs, showing just how the blood 
nourishes the tissues. 



286 BEAUTY A DUTY 

nourishment into body tissue — or if sufficient oxygen is not taken in 
to assist in catabolism — a breaking down of the waste tissue of the 
body— the blood lacks nourishment and the skin must suffer, as does 
the rest of the body. 

If the liver, kidneys, intestines or lungs are not 
r w throwing off the amount of waste designated by Nature 

for them to eliminate, or if the combustion of this waste 
is not carried out among the tissues, the blood becomes impure, and 
the skin, being one of the organs of elimination, is forced to throw 
off more than it should, or throw off impurities which are not con- 
sistent with the character of impurities which Nature intended to be 
thrown off by it. 

No agency, except the circulation of blood, is so important in 
this elimination, as full breathing of pure air. If the breathing is 
Dot deep, so that every capillary of the lungs is expanded, that suf- 
ficient oxygen may enter them, the blood is not fully purified as it 
passes through the lungs, and the proper amount of oxygen does not 
enter it. Thus it is that the blood gradually becomes impure as the 
result of insufficient breathing. 

As the oxygen enters the blood, it causes a combustion of the 
waste products in the form of carbonic acid gas, phosphoric acid, 
acid potassium phosphate and glycerin-phosphoric acid, which readily 
pass off from the blood through the lungs. Waste products are being 
thrown off every instant in all parts of the system. As the tissues 
decompose, the oxygen, as it is carried by the blood out among these 
tissues, puts them in condition to be absorbed by the lymph-spaces 
and the veins, which carry them to the lungs and to the skin, where 
they are ejected from the body. 



THE COMPLEXION 287 

The experience of the writer in taking the measurements of 
thirty-five thousand women has unfortunately shown that the aver- 
age woman takes in not over two-thirds of the oxygen necessary for 
complete purification. 

The importance of full, correct breathing and of the strength 
of the stomach, liver, kidneys and intestines, as agencies in the reten- 
tion of a clear, smooth skin, cannot be over-estimated. 

The reader will recall that in order that the food may be digested, 
absorbed and converted into tissue, and the waste of the system put 
in condition to be cast off, a regular heat must be kept up within the 
body. It will be recalled, also, that the heat is caused by the com- 
bustion of carbon. As is the case in the combustion of carbon in 
wood, the more oxygen supplied to the fire by fanning, or by draughts 
in a stove, the more combustion and the greater the heat. If all air, 
and therefore, all oxygen be kept away from a burning fire, the fire 
will go out, because the combustion will cease when the o 
withdrawn. This same combustion of carbon, or fat, goes on within 
the body to keep up its heat, and, if all oxygen be withdrawn from 
the body, it grows cold and death ensues. The importance of full 
breathing to carry oxygen to all parts of the body as a heat producer, 
will, therefore, be readily seen. 

The friction created by the passage of the oxygen about all of 
the tissues, together with the friction created by the passage of the 
gas, gives the heat and stimulus necessary to the flow of the electric 
current through the nerves. It is in the creation of this friction that 
the oxygen of the air is necessary as a nerve stimulus. Without this 
natural stimulus, the nerves do not properly direct the muscular 
action, necessary not only to move the extremities, but to move all 



288 BEAUTY A DUTY 

tissues which aid in digestion, absorption and assimilation of foods 
and in relief of the waste. 

Through the telegraph system of nerves, the 

Effect of Nerves , . , . .. . 

II th <?k' oram receives messages and issues its instructions 

to all parts, regulating the action of the muscular 

coats of the blood-vessels, as well as of all other tissues. 

The body contains two kinds of muscular tissue: the one obeys 
our thoughts, directed through the nerves, by will, as is the case with 
the large muscles of the body; and the other, as the tissues in the 
blood-vessels, obeys our emotions and not our thoughts; thus, the 
muscles of the arms can be moved at will, but those of the blood- 
vessels are controlled only by thoughts and emotions, directed by the 
delicate vaso-motor nerves. 

The involuntary muscles of the capillaries being elastic, by some 
emotions dilate, and allow the blood to flow freely, giving the red 
glow to the skin, or by other emotional impulses, they contract, 
forcing the blood out and the skin blanches or turns pale,— thus an 
emotion can contract the blood-vessels and blanch the cheeks, or by 
opening them can diffuse the face with a blush. 

It is the contraction of the involuntary muscles in the capillaries 
of the skin, which causes the peculiar expression known as "Goose 
flesh." 

If one becomes extremely angry, the minute capillaries contract, 
the blood flows out of them and is sent bounding back to the large 
arteries and through them to the heart and brain. This sudden 
reversing of the blood-current is unnatural; it produces unpleasant 
sensations and thus extreme anger often causes severe illness. 

Extreme fear acts in the same way, and the result of frightening 



THE COMPLEXION 289 

children as a means of punishment, will be readily seen in its effect 
upon the health. 

Thoughts of kindness, joy, happiness and good-will, put the 
nerves in a normal condition and it is through this control of the 
blood-vessels of the body, through the nerves, that the health is 
materially and directly affected by the character of thoughts. This 
physiological truth is the basis of the so-called "Mental Science" 
belief. 

It must be borne in mind that when a 

Effect of Thought ,. , , ,. .„ . . , , 

TT ., ~ , thought contracts the capillaries of the outer 

Upon the Complexion ° l 

skin, it contracts also the skin which lines the 
stomach, intestines, and, in fact, the lining of all internal organs; 
hence fear, anger, worry or displeasure directly affect the stomach, 
intestines, kidneys, and, in fact, all of the vital organs; and the skin, 
as well as the tissues of the nerves and every part of the body, 
becomes insufficiently nourished. Long-continued worry, displeasure 
or anger, by their effect upon the nerves, so interfere with assimila- 
tion and absorption of nourishment that reserve fat, stored in the 
system, is consumed and the body becomes thin. 

Disagreeable thoughts, resulting in unpleasant emotions, if per- 
sisted in for a long time, keep the capillaries of the skin contracted, 
drive the blood from it, and cause it to become undernourished and 
pale. 

If one worries for a few days, causing unpleasant emotions, the 
complexion often becomes pale, because the nerves to the capillaries 
of the skin have contracted and kept it from being flushed with blood. 
Illness, causing nerve tension, sometimes acts in the same way, — 
even when there is sufficient blood in the body, the face is pale. Per- 



290 BEAUTY A DUTY 

haps one of the most frequent causes for pale faces is worry. Thus 
do our thoughts affect our complexions. 

The skin, with the other organs of excretion, is 
Regulation of . . , » ., , „,->,-, » 

Temtjer t an im P or tant regulator of the heat of the body. As 

previously stated, heat is occasioned by combustion 

within the body, of the elements contained in the food as they are 

changed by chemical action into other forms and combinations, also 

by friction in the passage of solids, liquids and gases through the 

blood. 

The heat is distributed throughout the body by means of the 
blood. The normal temperature of the body is a little over 98 degrees. 

Much of the heat passes off from the body in aqueous vapor and 
volatile matter through the lungs and the skin. About 90 per cent, 
of the so-called ' ' solid food ' ' leaves the body in the form of carbonic 
acid, water and urea. These, in part, all pass through the skin. The 
perspiration, and the aqueous vapor carry body heat out with them, 
thus cooling the body and regulating the temperature, and it is very 
necessary that the flow of perspiration be kept free and natural. 

In the condition of the body termed a "cold," the pores of the 
skin, or the opening of the sweat-ducts, are closed, the impurities 
cannot be eliminated and the poisonous toxins remain within the 
body. The kidneys and intestines are forced to eliminate the pro- 
portion of waste which should be thrown from the skin. The relief, 
therefore, from a cold must be in opening the pores. The greater 
heat which aids in opening them may be occasioned by imbibing much 
oxygen. Therefore, deep breathing and our grandmother's remedy 
of a hot bath, a hot drink and a warm covering in bed is a most 
rational means of opening up the sweat-glands and relieving a cold. 



THE COMPLEXION 291 

What the body would be were there no means of parting with 
its heat, excepting by dry radiation through the skin, is seen in fevers 
where the perspiration which should be evaporated is suppressed, 
and the blood becoming overheated burns the epidermis. Great heat 
can be borne as long as the circulation is vigorous and the skin clean, 
so that the sweating is free. 

The greater the evaporation, the greater the loss of heat, so that 
in cases of fever, if the sweat ducts can be opened, the temperature 
is lowered. Thus the application of hot water, which opens the 
pores of the skin, assists the natural heat evaporation through 
perspiration, in fever patients, and is productive of more permanent 
results than can be obtained by the application of cold water. 

The nerves are also an important factor in the regulation of 
body heat, and in controlling the involuntary muscles in the blood- 
vessels; where the circulation is sluggish, the work of the physical 
culturist should often be directed to toning and relaxing the nerves. 
Bodily fatigue very quickly and definitely affects the 
Fatigue condition of the skin. If a muscle is fatigued, a greater 
nerve stimulation is required to incite its action, thus, 
where one is tired, more nerve force is required to stimulate the 
muscles and the nerves become overtaxed. Artificial nerve stimula- 
tion may be applied, but from this there must be a reaction. 

The only natural relief from fatigue is in exercise to call a 
vigorous circulation to all parts of the body, deep breathing and 
relaxation until the waste is removed and harmony restored. 

As the character and color of the skin are 

U th Sk' dependent upon the amount and purity of the blood 

circulating through it, the importance of following 

a judicious diet, for supplying the necessary elements which go to 



292 BEAUTY A DUTY 

make up the tissues of the body, will be seen. The kind of food 
should, of course, be regulated by the needs of the individual, keeping 
in mind that, generally speaking, proteids re-supply the tissue, which, 
in the natural functioning of the body is continually being torn down. 
When the blood is found lacking in certain elements, attention should 
be given to supplying those elements by selection of the right kind 
of food. For example,— if the blood be anaemic, foods which build 
red blood corpuscles should be supplied in generous proportions. 
When development is necessary, fattening foods of all kinds are 
required in as generous quantity as the system will assimilate, while 
exercise for the vital organs is a daily necessity that they may be 
sufficiently strong and active to digest the food and absorb the 
nourishment. Nothing is gained by supplying more than the diges- 
tive system can handle. Exercise also sets free the blood corpuscles 
from the liver and pancreas. In the case of reduction of flesh, the 
quantity and quality of food must be regulated by definite rules, so 
that the skin may not be deprived of the proper nourishment, while 
the excess of fatty tissue is being consumed by exercises and deep 
breathing. 

Every woman must use her intelligence, therefore, or take up a 
study of this interesting subject, so that she can build up the right 
kind of blood and keep her skin properly nourished by forceful circu- 
lation. The skin is never fully nourished if the blood is poor or the 
circulation is sluggish. This knowledge together with the informa- 
tion and instructions given in these lessons upon the anatomy and 
care of the skin, will go far towards creating that phase of beauty, 
which is expressed in a glowing, clear skin. In this article I dis- 
cuss not general dietetics, but the foods having a medicinal effect 
upon the skin. 



THE COMPLEXION 293 

The natural acid of fruit and the medicinal elements of veg- 
etables, render them valuable as promoters of a clear skin. The 
custom of eating fruit before a meal is excellent, as it stimulates the 
flow of gastric juices. Well cooked vegetables should always con- 
stitute an important part of the heaviest meal. 

Drink freely of water, as its natural assistance in the elimination 
of waste from the system has so much to do with a clear complexion. 

In the case of a weak stomach, coffee should not be used, and 
even in normal condition, its use should be very moderate, else it will 
create digestive disturbances and the skin will suffer. Coffee con- 
tains tannic acid, caffein and a volatile oil. The caffein and the 
volatile oil, both affect the nervous system and the heart. 

The tannin, which is present in tea as well as in coffee, unites 
in the stomach with food and with mucus, retarding digestion. It 
is the tannin in the bark of trees which is used in the process of 
toughening skin into leather. Because of the physiological action 
constantly at work in the skin lining the stomach, the tannin does 
not toughen the stomach to the same degree, but it doubtless has the 
tendency to do so, and probably does so, in a less degree, especially 
where the nerves and muscles here are weak. 

Tea and coffee are nerve stimulants,— not foods. There are bet- 
ter nerve stimulants and these should be used very judiciously, if at 
all. Why eat or drink, as foods, things which are not foods— they 
do not nourish. 

Milk, liquid made of fruits and cereals, cocoa and grape juice 
are nourishing- and, if properly digested, tend to build up a good skin. 

Meat once a day is amply sufficient and combined with vege- 
tables and fruit, which, as stated above, should be used with the 



294 BEAUTY A DUTY 

heaviest meal, will supply the blood with proper nourishment and 
strength. 

Eich foods and fried foods of all kinds, are "death" to good 
complexions ; therefore, avoid elaborate pastries, too many sweets or 
too much fat. These all serve their purpose in small quantities ; but 
much sugar, fat or starch clog the system and fried foods are indi- 
gestible. 

A certain amount of stimulation is, of course, desirable and 
healthful, but this natural stimulant is furnished in the fruits and 
vegetables, and too high seasoning should be avoided. 

Nuts are very nourishing, therefore should form part of the 
winter diet; however, being very rich in fat, a tablespoonful of nuts 
a day will suffice. 

Many persons overload the stomach and liver with too much 
starch. If not doing heavy work, or if not exercising freely, the 
system requires little starch, or little fat. 

Graham bread is far better for the complexion than white bread. 
The coarse bran in the graham flour keeps the lining of the intestines 
and stomach clean. The so-called "whole wheat" bread is a mis- 
nomer. It is not made from the whole wheat— the bran is omitted.* 

The old time notion that one needs a tonic every spring is erro- 
neous. Nature provides a tonic in the foods which the seasons pro- 
vide, and let me impress upon you the importance, in the spring, of 
discarding, to a great extent, the root vegetables used in the winter 
and eating freely of those growing above ground. 

There is no tonic in the drug store better than dandelion greens, 
spinach and water-cress. These will correct many diseases due to 
impure blood. 

* For a full discussion of the digestibility and value of foods, see the author's book, "Foods." 



THE COMPLEXION 295 

Water-cress contains sulphur, iron and phosphates,— the ingre- 
dients in most spring tonics. 

Spinach and beets contain much iron, therefore, are especially 
valuable for anaemia. 

Dandelions contain taraxacum, which is used in the relief of 
dyspepsia. They are a strong tonic, a moderate laxative and a 
diuretic,— that is, they increase the secretion and flow of urine, and 
should be used freely in the springtime for greens. 

Onions and asparagus are also diuretic. The former is a good 
tonic for the stomach and the latter for the heart. 

Lettuce is a sedative, containing a certain amount of opium, 
therefore it is quieting to the nerves, and without the depressing after 
effects of an opiate. It increases the flow of urine and is frequently 
an ingredient in patent cough medicines. 

Parsley contains a volatile oil and camphor. It acts upon the 
reflex and vaso-motor nerve centers, and is used in dysmenorrhea 
and genito-spinal debility. It is used in many liver tonics. 

Celery is said to be good for the nerves, but its value as a nervine 
is questioned. 

The use of soap is one of the most important things for 
Soaps a woman who would have a smooth skin to consider care- 
fully; its indiscriminate use has caused many wrinkles. 
Especially should one, whose skin is inclined to be too dry, be careful 
not to use a soap containing free alkali, as the alkali will extract the 
fat from the sebaceous glands and tissues, and one who is inclined 
to wrinkles will note that the use of a strongly alkaline soap will be 
followed by the appearance of numerous little lines,— after the skin 
has dried. There are very few soaps that contain no free alkali. 



296 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The latter must be used in manufacture, in order to extract the soap 
ingredients from fat. 

Pure castile soap made of olive oil— not animal oil— is the best. 
It must be remembered that there are many grades of ' ' castile ' ' soap, 
some of which are no better than any other cheap soap. When one 
can be sure it is the pure, imported castile it is safe and preferable. 
The scented soaps should be used guardedly, unless you know defi- 
nitely about their ingredients, because the pleasant odor may hide 
a multitude of dangers to the skin. Next to castile olive oil soap 
comes Ivory soap. This is made of purely vegetable oil and is said 
to contain no free alkali. 

The soap that dries, roughens or makes the skin of the face feel 
stiff, should never be used a second time and when one has been 
found, which softens the face, experiments should cease and, if soap 
be used at all, that soap should be used regularly. 

The face should never be washed in hard water. The 

w woman who has soft water available, without effort, is 

to be congratulated, for Nature provides no better skin 

tonic than soft water. Instead of spending so much money on face 

creams, it would be better expended upon soft water. 

The city dweller, who has not access to rain water, can often 
procure it by saving the melted ice from her refrigerator; or, if the 
house be heated with steam and the air is let out of the radiator by 
a valve, she can procure the best kind of soft water by opening this 
valve and allowing the water to run from it. This is condensed 
steam, which is distilled water and the purest kind of soft water. 

If it is absolutely necessary to use hard water upon the face, be 
sure that the water is boiled first. The hard water contains lime, 



THE COMPLEXION 297 

which is exceedingly injurious to the skin. Boiling the water causes 

a deposit of this lime in the bottom of the kettle. 

It is much safer to boil hard water before using it than it is to 

try to soften the hard water with borax, or soda, as these are drying 

in their nature. 

When one is going immediately into the open air 

, the face should never be washed ; it should be cleaned 

Substitutes 

with cream or a bath oil. Cream should be rubbed 
lightly over the face and then wiped off with a soft cloth, after which 
another application should be made to cleanse the pores and again 
wiped off with a clean cloth. If your skin is too oily and you can- 
not remove all of the oil with a dry cloth, dip the cloth in witch hazel 
or Pond's extract. The cream of cow's milk is excellent for cleans- 
ing. 

In applying the cream or wiping it off be sure that all move- 
ments of the hands are upward and outward. The movement should 
be the same as for massage of the face. 

Remember in washing the face with oil or water that the dirt 
is on the surface. Do not attempt to combine cleansing with mas- 
sage, because you will not be so particular to follow right lines. 

If one is exposed to much dust or dirt the face should be cleansed 
three times a day with cream and a little powder should be dusted 
over it. 

Never wash the face with soap or use warm water upon it in the 
morning. 

Many city dwellers, who have not soft water, prefer to wash 
their faces with cream and not to use the water upon the face at 
any time, and many others employ this method of cleansing during 



298 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the day, for cold water will not remove dirt from the pores and the 
face chaps after warm water or soap. This method is very success- 
ful, if the face be regularly exercised that the oil glands be kept 
fully active. 

Soap and soft water at night, followed by a cream or skin food 
with cream for cleansing in the morning is a good plan. 

Another soap substitute is almond meal; this is bought in a jar 
with a sifter cover and all that is necessary is to sift a little into the 
palm of the hand, wet it and rub upon the face as you would a soap 
lather. A jar of almond meal, with a perforated top costs no more 
in the end than soap. You will pay 25 to 30 cents a jar but it will 
last longer than soap. Be sure to get a meal which has been so 
carefully sifted that it contains no hard kernels. After you have 
used one jar of almond meal you will have the jar with the sifter 
and you can re-fill it with oatmeal, which you sift through a cloth 
sufficiently fine to prevent the coarse shell from sifting through. 

Oatmeal is nourishing to the skin. It is particularly good for 
dry skins and bags of this are used in place of soap and wash cloths. 
These bags are made at home of soft linen or cheese cloth. A 
number of bags about four inches square may be made up at a 
time. Fill the bag with oatmeal, which has been well crushed and 
put through a sieve. Mix with the meal one-fourth of a level 
teaspoon of boracic acid and an equal part of powdered orris root. 
The boracic acid is an antiseptic and is healing, while the orris 
root is an astringent and is aromatic. These should be put in the 
air to dry after each use. 

The cleansing with oil is particularly applicable to dry skins, 
while the almond and oatmeal are nourishing and the oatmeal with 



THE COMPLEXION 299 

the orris root is desirable for large pores and for faces of which 
the skin is becoming loose and flabby— the astringent tightens. The 
natural oil of the meal feeds the skin and when one can accomplish 
the purposes of feeding, tightening and cleansing with one process 
time is economized. 

The great agency in the removal of any skin 
and Towels blemish or in overcoming inelastic skin, which results 
in wrinkles, is an abundant blood supply. This should 
be stimulated by exercises. "Were it not that a coarse towel or coarse 
wash cloth is apt to abrade the cuticle, making the skin rough, or, 
if used too vigorously, to deepen wrinkles, instead of rubbing them 
out, rubbing the face with a wash cloth or a coarse towel, which 
brings a good blood supply to the skin, would be as good a method 
as any for the development of tissues and the removal of waste 
through the blood stream and sweat glands, keeping the latter open 
that their natural amount of oxygen might be absorbed. As they 
are used, however, there is no doubt but that the wash cloth and 
the towel are responsible for many wrinkles and for many rough 
skins. 

If you use a wash cloth on the face, be sure not to scrub the face 
and deepen wrinkles with it and be sure to rinse and dry it thoroughly 
after using. Remember that the dirt is on the surface and that all 
work with the face deeper than the surface is done by the hands in 
massage. 

Here let me remind you,— In drying the face with a towel, let the 
movement be upward and from the center of the face outward. Never 
rub the face downward,— it encourages the facial muscles to sag, and 
never scrub with the towel— dry the face gently. Let the rubbing 



300 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of the skin tissue be done with the fingers in the regular process 
of massage. 

For cleansing the pores, nothing excels the 
th w h Cl th eame l' s na i r complexion brush. These bristles are 
exceedingly fine, and, when wet they are sufficiently 
soft not to abrade the skin or to deepen the wrinkles or to tear the 
delicate tissues about the pores. The brush should be thoroughly 
dried and, where practicable, put in the sun. It may be thoroughly 
cleansed, once a week, by rinsing in water containing a few drops 
of carbolic acid. 

Another excellent substitute is the oatmeal bags suggested above. 

Steaming is not to be recommended, particularly for 

, p delicate skins. It enlarges the pores and makes the skin 

much more susceptible to atmospheric conditions, keeping 

it too tender. 

The immediate effect of steam is to plump and swell out the 
tissues, but the reaction is flabby tissues and the application of cold 
water after the steaming will not cause it to fully react. Neither 
am I in sympathy with the use of alternate hot and cold applications. 
These are used for the purpose of stimulating the circulation through 
the skin, but the use of first hot and then cold is extreme and this 
stimulation is better done by exercises for the face. These result 
in more permanent tissue-building, and do not bring about flabbi- 
ness. Exercises will not only stimulate the nerves and bring a good 
circulation of blood to the skin, but will awaken the muscles, prevent 
clogging of the pores and of the glands of the skin, appreciably pro- 
moting their activity. A few good exercises take no longer than does 
the application of hot and cold compresses. 



THE COMPLEXION 301 

In many massage parlors, the face is steamed, then massaged, 
then electricity applied. This is too much work; it fatigues the 
tissues and the real result of facial treatment is not the immediate 
effect but the result shown hours later. 

One well-known writer and dermatologist speaks strongly 
against the use of steam and hot water upon the face, stating that 
too great heat will leave the tissues weakened, but in the next chapter 
states that after oil has been applied, the red electric light bulb 
should be held closely over the face "to drive the oil in." This 
creates greater heat than hot water. The writer forgets that the 
movements of the skin are not from without inward, but from within 
outward; the natural oil of the skin flows outward, and as stated 
above, excessive heat tends to weaken and relax the tissues. The 
natural amount of heat needed to enable the pores to absorb the oil 
is produced by the friction of the massage. 

Skin Irregularities and Diseases 

In most cases of actual disease of the skin the whole system is 
deranged, and the application of simply a liniment, or a salve, will 
not correct the condition. To accomplish a cure the entire system 
must be regulated by following the rules of hygiene, — the regulation 
of diet, proper exercises to establish a forceful circulation and deep 
breathing to purify the blood. It requires patience and persistence. 

The same holds true in the case of chronic skin ailments such 
as pimples, sallow skins, etc. which are not actual diseases. In actual 
skin diseases one should consult a physician and obtain his opinion 
as to the exact form of disease; then definite hygienic treatment, 
with directions for massage, lotions, or ointments can be prescribed. 



302 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is safe to say that there are no remedies that can be taken into 
the system, which, of themselves, are sure and specific cures for 
skin diseases. Physicians often endeavor to reach the cause of 
the difficulty by giving cathartics and tonics which are only tem- 
porary in relief. They merely assist Nature in her work,— while 
exercise, proper diet, correct breathing, local treatment and massage 
are more natural and more permanent aids, because they restore the 
natural strength of the organs so that they will perform their normal 
functions unaided. These means are always insisted upon by the 
up-to-date physician. 

I am simply explaining here the cause of the most common skin 
difficulties and giving the general line of treatment. Specific direc- 
tions must be given according to the individual case. Only in this 
way can satisfactory results be obtained. 

Pale faces are occasioned by a deficiency in the gen- 
Pale Faces eral blood supply; by deficient quantity of red blood 
corpuscles (anaemia) ; by indigestion or any physical 
ailments which affect the nervous system; and by undue tension of 
nerves, causing the skin capillaries to contract, so that the blood 
cannot enter them. 

Worry, or disagreeable thoughts, by reason of the effect upon 
the nerves and, through the nerves, upon the digestion and the capil- 
laries of the skin, is a most frequent cause of pale faces. The effect 
of thought upon the color of the skin is explained earlier in this chap- 
ter (pages 288 and 289). 

Tan and sunburn are caused by the effect of the sun 

_ , upon the pigment of the skin, as explained on page 276. 

As directed elsewhere, if one is out in the sun or air a 



THE COMPLEXION 303 

great deal, the use of much water on the face should be avoided; 
cold cream should be used to cleanse the face, in place of water. 
When it seems desirable to use water, it should be used at night, and 
a cold cream, or skin food, as the condition demands, should be 
applied. Water should not be used before going into the open air. 

The special instructions for the removal of freckles are followed 
for the removal of tan. This treatment, like every other, should be 
modified according to individual needs. 

A good cold cream, fresh cream of milk, almond oil, olive oil, 
vaseline or mutton tallow will heal the burned flesh. 

Sallow skins, as a rule, are caused by the failure 
Sallow Skin of the liver, stomach, intestines or kidneys to do their 
normal work, thus freely eliminating the poisons and 
waste from the system. Perhaps the large majority of cases are due 
to the failure of the liver to properly discharge the bile into the intes- 
tines. It is then picked up by the blood stream and it is the color of 
the bile which gives to the skin its yellow tinge. It is relieved by 
exercises to create a normal activity of the above organs, that there 
may be no clogged organs or ducts and that the impurities may be 
freely eliminated, and by deep breathing, which purifies the blood 
and enables the system to throw off its natural amount of impurities 
through the lungs. 

The rest of the treatment consists of daily baths, plain, whole- 
some food and the external use of a whitening cream, with a thorough 
daily facial massage for a few minutes. The most stubborn cases 
yield to this treatment. 



304 BEAUTY A DUTY 

When the skin has become flabby, withered 
Flabby or 

With d Skin or wrm kled, its elasticity and tone must be re- 
gained by a circulation of good blood through the 
skin ; this is gained by exercise of the face, by exercise for the entire 
body and by deep breathing to purify the blood. 

The daily facial exercise movements and use of skin food for 
the face and neck will keep up a normal circulation and elasticity 
and correct the flabbiness. Your diet must also be looked after so 
that it will contain good nourishing foods. 

Daily sponge baths must be taken and a hygienic manner of 
living adopted. 

Large pores are caused by the clogging of the 

Large Pores glands or ducts with dirt, powder, or with anything 

which causes a hardening of the sebum. The condition 

is aggravated when the skin is not elastic,— a lifeless or inelastic skin 

will not close the pores when the clogging is removed. 

The relief from this difficulty lies in exercise and cleanliness. 
The former brings back the elasticity to the skin and the latter keeps 
the skin active, preventing the stoppage of the pores. 

The free use of cold water upon the face tends to strengthen 
and adapt the skin to the flesh beneath it, but the skin must be kept 
well nourished and elastic. An astringent wash may be applied to 
tighten the skin and close the pores, whenever necessary, but care 
must be exercised in first thoroughly cleansing the pores. 

When not resulting from diseases, such as erysip- 

Red Faces elas, acne or eczema, red faces are caused by an unusual 

dilation of the capillaries of the skin, which sometimes 

results from tight clothing, but more often from eating too strongly 



THE COMPLEXION 305 

stimulating foods, both liquid and solid, also from indigestion or 
undue exposure to wind, heat or cold. 

A thoroughly good circulation must be promoted, attention given 
to diet and plenty of cold water and an astringent wash applied for 
contracting the capillaries of the skin. Strong tea and coffee, and in 
fact all stimulating drinks and highly seasoned and fattening foods, 
should be avoided. 

The constant friction of high or tight collars upon 
Dark Necks the skin will draw more pigment to it and will work 
away much of the fat in the skin and immediate tissues. 
The dark lines about the top of a collar can never be entirely relieved 
until the tight collars are discontinued. This condition of the skin 
can be helped, however, by a thorough cleansing each night followed 
by neck exercises and the application of a good whitening lotion and 
a good skin food. 

An oily skin is exceedingly trying to the patience of 
Oily Skin any woman. It makes the face shiny, greasy and un- 
cleanly and aids in the collection of dirt. 

Oily skims are most frequently caused by inactivity of the 
sebaceous glands, so that they do not retain their normal amount of 
oil in reserve and it oozes out upon the surface of the skin too freely. 

Stimulants and drying lotions such as Eau de Cologne, alcohol, 
witch hazel or Pond's Extract will cut the oil, so it can be wiped off, 
therefore it is well to apply one of the above whenever the skin 
becomes oily. This, however, furnishes temporary relief, only. 

As in the case of dry skin, permanent relief lies in a thorough 
daily exercise to open up and strengthen these glands, and in exercise 



306 BEAUTY A DUTY 

to create a good circulation; definite attention must also be given 
to diet. 

A dry skin is caused by an impoverished condition 

Dry Skin of the blood, by an imperfect circulation, by tense nerves, 

by continued exposure to dry winds, alkali dust, extreme 

heat, to soaps containing free alkali, or to the use of strongly alkaline 

water; any one of these conditions will unduly dry the natural oil 

in the skin. 

Permanent relief lies in a forceful circulation of good blood and 
in facial exercise, which will promote a more natural flow of oil in 
the glands and blood in the capillaries; also in the application of a 
skin food, which to a certain extent, supplies the lack of oil in the 
sebaceous glands. 

The mere application of skin food, however, is temporary in its 
relief only, because oil which is forced into the pores soon comes to 
the surface, unless the sebaceous glands are put in condition to retain 
a certain amount of that which is applied, and to retain their own 
supply. It must be remembered that when the skin has been dry for 
some time, these glands themselves become shrunken. 

As explained, elsewhere, dry, undernourished skin is the chief 
cause of wrinkles. 

Soap should be used with great care on the face and neck as it 
often dries the skin. If after experimenting with the good kinds of 
soap suggested on page 296, you find they do not agree with your 
face, one of the soap substitutes referred to on page 297 should be 
used. When you have found the one that suits your particular case, 
stick to it and stop experimenting. 



THE COMPLEXION 307 

Blackheads are due to clogging of the sebaceous 

6l3.CkllC3.ClS 

(n A \ ducts with dirt. To prevent this, thorough cleanliness 
must be observed. Many women, who are neat in 
every other respect, fail to be thorough in the cleansing of the skin. 
It may be that they are surrounded by an atmosphere containing an 
unusual amount of dirt. In this event, the face should be cleansed 
more frequently. Where the pores become clogged the sebaceous 
matter, instead of being milky, becomes cheeselike; there is a pres- 
sure upon the surrounding capillaries, the tissues underneath often 
become involved and pimples result. 

A forceful circulation of good blood and regular, daily facial 
exercise, together with frequent cleansing, will prevent a return of 
the blackheads. All cases of this kind should be taken in hand as 
soon as they develop, and persistently treated until they are cured. 

Freckles are due to an excessive and irreg- 

Freckles 

ular amount of pigment in the skin. They con- 
sist of small deposits of coloring matter in the 
deeper layer of the epidermis and differ from chloasma, or liver 
spots, only in size. 

The heat, particularly of the sun's rays in summer, draws the 
pigment to the surface of the skin and one who is susceptible to 
freckles should avoid undue exposure to either sun or wind. 

Freckles indicate a goodly proportion of iron in the blood and 
the child's description of them as "rusty spots" is correct. It will 
be noted that freckles are not present in anaemia, which denotes a 
lack of iron in the blood. 

These blemishes are more common to blonds and those with red 
hair, due to the fact that the skin of blonds is usually thin. 



308 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Freckles rarely appear before the age of six, but from then on, 
they come and go with the change of seasons, usually disappearing 
in the fall as the sun's rays grow less powerful. 

The use of strong, mercurial lotions for the removal of freckles 
is injurious to the skin and cosmetic washes sometimes contain 
ingredients which are harmful and dangerous ; therefore, both should 
be avoided, but very satisfactory results may be obtained by the 
galvanic battery, using the stiff, fine needle, connected with the 
negative pole. 

When the pores of the skin are clogged, the kidneys, 
Pimples intestines and lungs are overworked. In order, therefore, 
that the pores may do their share in eliminating the waste 
matter of the system, they must be kept open, otherwise the tissues 
will become involved, the circulation through the skin and deeper 
tissues interrupted, the capillaries broken, and pimples or other skin 
eruptions result. 

Constipation and indigestion are prolific sources of "muddy" 
complexions and skin eruptions. The retained excretions form 
poisonous gases, which are carried into the circulation and contam- 
inate the blood. The effort of this waste matter to find its way out 
of the system, is the greatest cause of pimples and other skin diffi- 
culties. 

Eegular daily exercises for the vital organs to promote a healthy 
circulation are imperative for relief of pimples. 

When pimples are insistent, or chronic, and do not yield to the 
restoration of the normal action of the above organs, the skin tissues 
have become involved and the case requires special treatment, 
according to the nature of the disease. 



THE COMPLEXION 309 

Temporary relief from pimples, of the ordinary kind, may be 
materially aided by the application of soothing lotions or a lubricant, 
but permanent benefit can be established only by creating a perfect 
activity of every eliminating organ and a good circulation through- 
out the entire body, that the waste may be thrown off through its 
natural channels. 

These little pimples vary in size from a 

(Milia ^Millet-Seed) P in P oint to a lar S e pinhead. They are like 

small, whitish, sebaceous seeds, showing below 
the' epidermis like kernels of rice. They are found mostly on cheeks, 
eyelids and foreheads of elderly persons. Sometimes they are but 
two or three and sometimes as many dozens. Unless removed they 
remain unchanged for years. 

Internal remedies do not seem to reach the cause of these pe- 
culiar pimples, as their origin seems to be purely local and not 
affected by physical conditions. 

Some of these little "seeds" may be embedded in the skin, or 
they may project above the surface and in either case, there is a sac 
formation within the sebaceous gland that must be opened, the lumpy 
contents pressed out, and the cavity carefully cleansed, before the 
real treatment and cure can be commenced. 

So-called "liver spots" come in larger patches than 

,„, . , freckles and vary in color, some being scarcely percep- 

(Chloasma) J ° 

tible, others being a deep yellow, brown or almost black. 
The idiopathic varieties of this disease (those which have no relation 
to other diseases) are those produced by externally operating agen- 
cies, which persistently bring an undue flow of blood to any portion 
of the skin. As it is from the blood that the pigment is derived, 



310 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the stains produced by the pigment are in proportion to the conges- 
tion, or lack of current in the fluids of the body, especially the blood, 
or to the nitration of the vascular fluids. 

The symptomatic varieties of chloasma — those which are associ- 
ated with other diseases,— are the result of disorders involving the 
internal organs; ovarian and uterine diseases, pregnancy, chronic 
constipation and intestinal and gastric fermentation are very fre- 
quent causes of patches on the face and hands. 

The internal treatment for chloasma should consist in first put- 
ting the stomach, intestines, kidneys, uterus and ovaries in good 
condition, as these organs are mostly responsible for the pigmenta- 
tions on the face, neck and hands. This is best done by exercise, 
diet and deep breathing. Local treatment will depend largely upon 
the depth and location of the pigments. 

The discolorations in the skin often come after a long continued 
use of arsenic. 

To treat chloasma successfully, the skin must be kept perfectly 
clean and the pores free from obstructions. 

A daily bath is necessary, as is also the use of plenty of water 
internally; at least eight glasses of water a day should be taken. 
The bowels and stomach must be kept strong and active. Not other- 
wise can relief be obtained. 

The external, or local treatment consists of proper exercise and 
the bleaching of the skin. In doing the latter it is entirely unneces- 
sary to remove. the cuticle. A systematic and thorough use of mas- 
sage, combined with the proper lotions and creams, will bring much 
more satisfactory results. 



THE COMPLEXION 311 

External applications hasten the reproduction of the epidermis, 
thereby substituting new and unpigmented skin for the old. 

Great care must be exercised against too powerful bleaching 
remedies; they have many times been known to cause inflammation, 
so that the pigment deposit was increased instead of lessened. 

Slow methods of removing the pigment spots are advisable rather 
than the rapid ones, as there is more liability of the discoloration 
returning if too rapidly removed. 

Peroxide of hydrogen can be recommended as harmless and some- 
what helpful, but is not of any material value for permanent results. 
Corrosive sublimate constitutes the basis of most of the lotions sold 
in drug stores, but such harmful results have come from it, that it 
should never be used. 

Warts are the outgrowth of the cuticle. In 
Warts childhood and early life they need not suggest 

grave sequels. In advanced years, especially 
when irritated by frequent caustic applications, they are more serious, 
often becoming the seat of malignant growths, therefore should be 
treated carefully. 

The variety most frequently seen on the fingers and hands come 
singly or in numbers, from pin head to pea size. They are erratic and 
come and go without any apparent cause. They are successfully 
removed by a simple caustic, but if the growth is obstinate, electrol- 
ysis should be resorted to, but in young children who will not submit 
to the light pain of the needle, or where electrolysis is not available, 
Hardaway advises that the wart be painted with a saturated solu- 
tion of salicylic acid in alcohol or this can be bought in the form of 
Beiersdorf plaster; it is more simple of application in the plaster 
form. 



312 BEAUTY A DUTY 

"Various caustic applications such as acid nitrate of mercury, 
caustic potash, or nitric chronic, or trichloracetic acid, may also be 
used, but the plaster is perhaps safer and better. 

"In case a caustic is used the trichloracetic acid is best. In the 
application of a caustic the contiguous skin about the wart should be 
thoroughly protected by applying melted wax about the base of the 
wart; then wrap the merest fragment of cotton about the point of 
a fine wooden tooth-pick, so as to avoid taking up too much of the 
acid and barely to moisten the wart, being careful not to let it touch 
the unaffected skin. If drastic treatment is desired the acid may 
be rubbed into the wart with the cotton, if a light treatment it is 
merely dropped upon it." 

Moles are said to be congenital in origin, though they 
Moles often do not appear until late in life. "When they appear 
after middle age, care should be used not to irritate them, as 
they often develop into more serious difficulties. 

The best method for removal is by electrolysis, which, of course, 
requires skilled treatment. It is unsafe and- unwise for anyone but 
an expert to in any way tamper with a mole, as it will not yield to 
simple treatment and the danger of after results is great. 

These are tumor-like growths, or greatly distend- 
Wens ed sebaceous glands, due to clogging of th^ glands or 

ducts. They form sacs containing a cheesy matter. 
They vary in size from that of a pea to an orange. They develop 
on the face, head, neck and back. The treatment for them is 
excision. 



THE COMPLEXION 313 

Acne is, no doubt, one of the most common of the skin 
Acne diseases and well developed cases of long standing sometimes 
require medical attention, as well as remedial exercise. Most 
often, however, it is relieved by exercise, diet, breathing and rest 
with local applications of astringent and healing lotions. The com- 
bination of the two forms of treatment is very effective. 

Usually acne is a chronic affection, insidious in its progress, 
and intermittent in its severity. It is sometimes aggravated at the 
menstrual period, but not in all cases. 

Acne occurs most commonly between the ages of puberty and 
about twenty-five years, but it may also occur in more mature years ; 
— it is unusual, however, after sixty. The disease may last for 
years, or a lifetime, if not given proper treatment, but often disap- 
pears spontaneously as the body reaches full maturity. 

It is a chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous glands and 
may occur wherever these are located. While the most common seat 
of the disease is the face, it frequently appears on the chest, neck, 
shoulders, the back and front of the upper chest, the genitals and 
extremities, although other parts of the body are frequently affected. 
The palms of the hands and soles of the feet are not affected by the 
disease. 

One of the reasons for the presence of acne on the face, more 
frequently than elsewhere, is the fact that the sebaceous glands, over 
most of the surface of the body, are connected with hairs of some size. 
The sebaceous ducts open into the follicles of the hair, which by con- 
tinual growth, keeps the orifice of the glands free. The friction of 
the clothes upon the body also assists in keeping these glands free. 
On the face, nose, forehead and cheeks, as well as on the neck and 



014 BEAUTY A DUTY 

chest, the hairs are few and cannot so fully assist in the outflow of 
the sebaceous secretion. In fact, when there is little friction of the 
face, by massage, they often act as an impediment, and block up the 
openings, the glands becoming clogged with dirt. 

The skm has within its structure a certain amount of involuntary 
muscular fibres, which are especially important in the emptying of 
the sebaceous glands, but on the face, back and chest, where acne 
develops most frequently, and where these glands are apt to become 
clogged, these involuntary muscles are almost entirely missing, so 
that the secretion, having no particular expulsive force, becomes 
impacted and if at all hard, the secretion is not excreted. This is 
one reason why exercise is important for the face, neck and chest, to 
keep the pores open. 

When these glands fail to act properly, as they do under various 
circumstances, it will cause a hard, dry condition of the skin called 
Xeroderma. When the skin is properly cared for, washed and mas- 
saged, the tissues will be fed with their natural food, the oily pro- 
ducts of these glands, with the dead epidermal matter, will be re- 
moved; but when the skin is neglected, these impurities and dead 
matter accumulate and the openings of the sebaceous and sweat 
glands become clogged, throwing extra work upon the other organs of 
the body and various forms of skin diseases develop— acne being the 
most common and annoying. 

The earliest stages of the acne-papule are generally intermingled 
with blackheads (comedones) and very often associated with sebor- 
rhea (dandruff) of the scalp. In fact acne seems to find its outlet in 
comedones and seborrhoea, but there is a diversity of opinion as to 
whether these cause the acne or the reverse. The former is probably 



THE COMPLEXION 315 

true, or at least the clogging of the pores may be the instigation. 

Uterine and gastro-intestinal derangements frequently accom- 
pany the disease, constipation and dyspepsia and the resultant mal- 
nutrition being the most common causes. When the uterine diffi- 
culty is corrected, and the stomach and other digestive organs are 
made to perform their functions properly, by exercises to strengthen 
the parts and bring a good circulation through them, much will have 
been done towards its relief and cure. Over-eating, or indigestible 
foods will cause an outbreak of acne. 

The eruptions are characterized by numerous small red pimples, 
somewhat conical in shape and varying from a pinhead to a split pea 
in size. These are usually scattered irregularly over the surface. 

Acne is aggravated by sea bathing, or by salt baths in any form. 
Some drugs, principally the bromides and iodides, will aggravate 
an existing case of acne, while at times the disorder seems to be a 
reflex neurosis, or nerve affection. - 

Exercises for the stomach and intestines to bring a 

Trent merit 

, A thorough circulation of good blood to them, deep breath- 

ing exercises and proper diet are the basis of all treat- 
ment for acne. 

A judicious and careful local treatment is very important, as 
the measures to be employed must depend largely upon the character 
of the disease, the constitutional treatment depending upon the dis- 
covery and removal of the cause, each case must be treated after 
the health symptoms are known. 

Although a disease of the sebaceous glands, acne cannot be 
treated solely as such, for it has strong relations with the rest of the 
system that must be borne in mind when treating it, and the internal 



316 BEAUTY A DUTY 

condition must often receive careful attention, as a large majority of 
acne cases, after the age of twenty, show derangement of the urine, 
liver and bowels. Indiscretions of diet will bring acne eruptions, as 
will also the checking of perspiration. 

Relief of acne is often obtained by proper vaginal injections. 

Caustics should not be used for acne, though they are often 
recommended. 

There is no doubt but that the use of the X-ray is one of the 
best agents for its relief, but there are cases that will not yield to 
that treatment alone. The best results will be obtained with a soft 
tube and a faint light. 

In the use of the X-ray treatment, the eyes and scalp must be 
protected, and the danger of producing atrophy not forgotten. If 
Erythema appears, the X-ray treatment should be discontinued at 
once. Exercise, diet, cheerful thoughts and deep breathing are 
essential, as these increase the skin resistance. 

Acne Rosacea, characterized by redness of the 
o t? h m nose, chin or other parts of the face, has many causes, 

but the most common are menstrual irregularities, 
anaemia, chlorosis, dyspepsia, constipation and exposure to exces- 
sive heat or cold. The trouble is most liable to occur at puberty or 
at the menopause, and is generally a reflex one. Chronic nasal 
troubles, or any condition that interferes with the local circulation, 
must always be considered in its treatment. 

A recurrent inflammation of the hair follicles just inside of the 
nose, is one of the common causes of chronic redness of the end of 
the nose, and when this inflammation exists it is advisable to pluck 
the hairs. This requires a little patience and persistence, but so 



THE COMPLEXION 317 

does everything which is worth working for in the correction of dis- 
ease or bodily defects. A 10% ointment of xeroform or a 30% solu- 
tion of peroxide of hydrogen may be applied to the inner surface of 
the nostrils, while the hairs are being removed. Even if the trouble 
has been of long standing, if the cause can be definitely reached and 
removed, very good results toward a cure can be obtained. The 
treatment and relief of this disease are slow and tedious. 

Eczema is a common skin disease and, like acne, is 
Eczema largely constitutional, therefore requires medical treat- 
ment, as well as remedial exercise. The advice given here 
is to be considered supplementary, as in the majority of cases both 
kinds of treatment are necessary. 

There are a great many forms of this disease, but only those 
involving the face, lips, neck and hands will be considered here. 

Eczema is an acute, sub-acute or chronic inflammatory disease 
of the skin. It generally begins in congestion of the skin, and ends 
in a falling off of the cuticle in scales, but between these two condi- 
tions there may be several distinct changes. 

It is not hereditary in the same sense that syphilis is. If the 
parents have eczema, it may be looked for in the children but it is 
probably the predisposed and susceptible skin that is inherited, and 
not the disease itself. 

It is not considered contagious, even in the parasitic variety, but 
an irritating discharge, coming in contact with the susceptible skin of 
another, may provoke it. It has a marked tendency to relapse. 
The principal internal causes are: 

Different derangements of nervous function, such as sudden 
mental shock, severe mental worry and nervous exhaustion; 



318 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Some conditions of pregnancy, or a reflex irritation due to 
uterine disorders; 

Some articles of food and drink, according as they derange the 
bowels and stomach; 

Extreme cold and excessive heat especially if the heated condi- 
tion causes much sweating; 

External irritants such as sugar, chemicals, flour, lime, soap 
hard water, or rough underwear that rubs and scratches the skin ; 

Sometimes flat foot, with the condition at times attendant, of 
varicose veins, will excite and produce eczema. 

In fact the causes of eczema are numerous and many times so 
obscure that the treatment of the disease is more or less a compli- 
cated problem, especially as there is not much tendency to a spon- 
taneous recovery, but rather a persistency in spreading to contiguous 
or distant parts of the body. Its treatment must be both local and 
constitutional. 

Before the exact form of local treatment can be decided upon, 
it is necessary to study the general features of the case,— the age, 
the length of time the condition has existed, and the cause of the 
trouble. When these things have been considered, and the correct 
stage of the disease determined, as to whether it is acute, subacute 
or chronic, then the form of treatment may be mapped out. 

Eczema of the face occurs in early, middle and 
, F , <. advanced years and does not yield readily to treat- 

ment. It attacks the whole of the face, often in- 
volving the nose and eyelids. The skin in such cases is usually light 
or dark red and the surface somewhat elevated. A discharge of 



THE COMPLEXION 319 

serum will be noticed. When the disease reaches its height the skin 
will scale and the itching become intense. 

This form of eczema is frequently mistaken for erysipelas, 
especially when there is a swelling, whjch causes the eyes to close, 
but eczema can be distinguished by its persistency and chronic charac- 
ter, failing often to yield even to the best treatment and recurring 
under the influence of thermal changes. It is often confused with 
acne, also, but in eczema the itching is severe while in acne there is 
considerable heat and burning. 

Soothing applications should be used first, followed by more 
stimulating ones. 

This is a dry form of the disease and is char- 

/T3 , N acterized by little red papules of about the size of a 

(Papulosum) J ^ ^ 

pinhead, which appear in small groups, or scattered 
over the face and on the surface of the skin in the vicinity of the 
joints, where there is a natural distension. Frequently in chronic 
cases the papules unite and form large patches. They are accom- 
panied by intense itching. The papules may continue several weeks 
or be replaced by others. A patch of eczema of this kind will ooze 
with moisture on being scratched; this gives relief from the itching 
sensation. 

Vesicular eczema, as the name implies, shows 

/XJ . . , ' little bladder-like vesicles, or blisters, which are 

(Vesiculosum) 

filled with a perfectly clear fluid, or serum. 
There is a good deal of fever, sensitiveness and itching at first, after 
which the skin becomes very red and the blisters form. If the latter 
are not opened accidentally, they will burst. The fluid dries rapidly, 



320 BEAUTY A DUTY 

when exposed to the air, and light crusts form. If treated promptly 
the breaking of the vesicles may be avoided. 

This is the mildest form of eczema and is 
Erythematosum peculiar to persons exposed to extremes of heat, 
cold or wind. Though it most often attacks the 
face, it will also be found on the soles of the feet, palms of the hands, 
and in the genital region. In the more acute forms, there is great 
irritation, burning and itching. It begins in patches of redness, 
rather than in spots, varying from a bright to a dull red, and there 
is more or less swelling. 

This form of eczema has a marked tendency to extend to ad- 
joining parts, also to relapse. 

The above four forms of eczema often present new phases, in 
fact they are constantly changing and also intermingling, which per- 
mits physicians to distinguish them more readily from other skin 
diseases. 

When the skin of the hand loses its elas- 

Eczema of the Hands . . .. ,, „ -,.,- 

,_ _. v ticity, as a result of an eczematous condition, 

(E.Fissum) J ' 

fissures form, particularly over the joints. 
This kind is often found in combination with the scaly sort in persons 
whose skin is thin, or undernourished, or exposed to irritating in- 
fluences. 

The lips furnish a good example of the 

ClT'lTb* * \ 1PS lability °f eczema to attack the mucous outlets 

of the body as in the case of the nostrils and 

eyelids. Their most constant use in the wetting of the lips and 

nasal discharges aggravate the trouble. 

Any of the above described kinds of facial eczema may occur 
on the lips. 



THE COMPLEXION 321 

In treating eczema, five general objects and prin- 

Treatment of . , , , , 

n crples must be considered: 

Eczema ^ 

1st. The exclusion of all sources of irritation to 
the skin in the matter of clothing, food, bathing, etc. 

2nd. Relief from itching, burning and other irritating sensa- 
tions. 

3rd. Reliable antiseptic dressings for local relief 

4th. Reduction of local congestion in acute cases and stimula- 
tion of circulation in chronic ones. 

5th. Repair of the horny layer in acute diseases, and destruc- 
tion of the thickened and abnormally horny quality of the tissue in 
chronic cases. 

The very best contributing agencies in the relief of eczema are 
fresh air, sunlight, exercise for good circulation and for the upper 
spine, also for the dorso-lumbar vertebrae. 

The internal treatment must be governed symptomatically and 
the causes and complications removed, as there is no specific for the 
disease. 

In intractable cases of eczema, and when there are frequent 
relapses of the disease, the application of a counter irritant is help- 
ful. Mustard leaves may be applied over the vasomotor centers of 
the parts. If the eczema affects the upper part of the body, apply 
the mustard leaves to the nape of the neck ; if the lower part is in- 
volved, apply the leaves over the lumbar region. 

In acute cases, frequent applications of hot alkaline water will 
relieve the swelling and pain. This should be followed by a soothing 
ointment. 

Equal parts of glycerine, alcohol and tincture of benzoin is 



322 BEAUTY A DUTY 

excellent for eczema of the lips. The affected parts should be pro- 
tected by a mixture of cold cream and white wax. 

A soothing application, such as sweet oil, or oil of sweet almonds, 
mixed with one per cent carbolic acid is excellent. Stiff ointments 
should be avoided in regions where hair develops most on the body. 
Preparations containing glycerine, vaseline, oil, alcohol or water are 
best. 

Bodily and mental rest cannot be too urgently recommended as 
a part of the treatment. 

There are no specifics for eczema and much harm has been done 
by over-dosing with patent blood medicines and by the injudicious 
use of arsenic, potassium iodide, or potassium bromide, which aggra- 
vate, rather than relieve the condition. 

In acute eczema, or when one is very full-blooded, or troubled 
with imperfect excretion because of constipation and gastric or in- 
testinal dyspepsia, it is necessary to keep the blood circulating freely 
and the liver, bowels and kidneys thoroughly active. These latter 
ailments will yield more readily to exercise and diet than to" the use 
of any amount of purgatives, stimulants, or tonics. The functional 
activity of the skin depends greatly upon the condition of the entire 
system. Occasionally a tablespoonful of castor oil, taken at night 
when retiring, will be found helpful in neurotic (extremely nervous) 
cases. This may be taken at regular periods for some weeks with 
helpful results. 

If there is any renal (kidney) derangement, distilled or pure 
water taken in large quantities before and between meals will en- 
courage proper elimination and act as a diuretic, keeping the kidneys 
well washed and free from impurities. 



THE COMPLEXION 323 

No positive rules can be followed for diet in the treat- 
E ment of eczema, but the quantity and quality of food must 

be given that will best nourish the body, without interfer- 
ing with digestion and elimination. 

One who is anaemic, scrofulous or poorly nourished, must take 
foods containing a goodly proportion of protein, such as fresh beef, 
or beef juice, fish, mutton, eggs, cheese, beans, peas, cocoa and other 
good nourishing foods. Cod-liver oil, butter and other fats are ex- 
cellent, when they can be readily digested. 

If carbohydrates are not readily digested, some of the various 
malt preparations are of value. 

When gouty conditions exist and there is a faulty digestion and 
elimination, in consequence, the diet, especially some foods rich in 
proteids, particularly red meats, should be restricted to the very 
lowest point possible, without depleting the health and strength. 
Meats should be confined to mutton, fowl and fish. An excellent 
diet for a gouty, eczematous condition is bread and milk, or milk 
alone for several weeks. Milk and seltzer water may be taken also, 
without other food, for several weeks, witli helpful results. 

The general diet for eczema must be modified according to con- 
ditions of the individual. Avoid starchy foods in excess, too acid 
fruits, hot breads and cakes, pastry, confectionery, much cheese, 
pickles and pickled meats, cucumbers, cabbage, (raw or cooked) 
parsnips, turnips, cracked wheat, shell fish, salted fish and salted 
meats, pork, veal and fried foods of any kind. Milk may be taken 
between meals. Coffee, tea and alcohol in any form are too stimu- 
lating and the discontinuance of them is necessary. 



324 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The less water applied to an eczematous surface, the 
E better for it, therefore avoid bathing the affected parts 

except with warm milk, or olive oil, applied with a soft 
cloth. If there is a tendency to perspire freely, from heat or vigor- 
ous exercise, one should keep the skin dusted thoroughly with talcum 
powder and avoid external or internal irritants. 

Massage is sometimes of value in chronic forms of 

-, eczema. The stimulation of the absorbents dissipates 

Eczema ^ 

the exudation, decreases the thickening and lessens 
the itching. 

Erysipelas is an acute inflammation of the skin, 
Erysipelas of a contagious character. The inflammation often 

commences with one or more chills, a feeling of general 
depression, headache, and sometimes vomiting. There may also be 
a feverishness followed by a high temperature. The eruption usual- 
ly begins at one of the muco-cutaneous outlets of the body. The 
face is the most common point of attack and the disease will gener- 
ally appear first on the eyelid, angle of the mouth, or side of the nose. 
It sometimes attacks the lobe of the ear, after it has been pierced 
for ear-rings. 

In severe cases, or when the disease is not checked within a week 
or ten days, complications may arise involving the lungs, pleura, 
heart, intestines, kidneys, peritoneum, or joints, with delirium and 
other grave symptoms; oftentimes the entire head becomes greatly 
swollen, appearing almost twice its normal size. Erysipelas of the 
head and neck often becomes serious from cerebral complications, or 
infection of the mucous surfaces. 

The disease may last from one day to several weeks. In mild 
cases, internal treatment is rarely necessary, the best plan being to 



THE COMPLEXION 325 

use a preparation that will protect the affected parts from external 
irritation. Flexible collodion is excellent for this purpose. 

This form of skin difficulty is especially severe 
Prickly Heat with people who are obese and with infants whose 
delicate skins and bowels cannot stand sudden and 
severe thermal changes. It affects equally the vigorous and the 
debilitated. The disease is aggravated by all external and internal 
irritations, such as indigestion, the use of opiates, or alcoholic 
beverages, flannels or chemically dyed garments worn next to the 
skin, undue exertion causing over-heating of the blood, fatigue, etc. 
Prickly heat may last for a few days, or for a week or more. The 
lesions are very numerous and in severe cases cover almost the entire 
body. 

Hives, or Nettle-rash, is an inflammatory 
Hives or Nettle-Rash disorder of the skin, characterized by the de- 
velopment of wheals of various sizes in a 
bright red, or whitish color. They burn and itch in an irritating 
manner and develop very rapidly, sometimes scattering and again 
extending all over the body. 

The wheals may appear suddenly without apparent cause, in 
large or small numbers, sometimes remaining a few minutes, some- 
times a few hours, or a few days, and then disappear as suddenly as 
they came, leaving but slight traces behind. 

In acute cases, there will be a rapid pulse and fever, 101° to 
102°, gastric irritation, headache and prostration. The eruption 
may not appear for a few days, and will then come out profusely 
over the entire body. Usually when the gastric irritation is re- 
lieved, the wheals subside and disappear. 



326 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Hives or nettle-rash may be due to a direct (idiopathic) or in- 
direct cause (symptomatic). Among the former may be mentioned 
external irritants such as the bite of an insect, certain medicines, 
climatic influences and injuries. Among the latter are improper 
diet, medicines, gastric and intestinal disorders, certain fruits and 
fish, pulmonary diseases, malaria, uterine, renal and nervous diffi- 
culties, pregnancy, menopause and gout. 

The majority of cases of hives need no special treatment. If 
the diet is studied and changed, the stomach rested, the intestines 
freed of retained waste matter, and the skin bathed with alkaline 
solutions, such as soda, the trouble will soon disappear. Should it 
prove obstinate, additional treatment will be necessary. 

In treating the skin in these cases, externally, all sources of 
irritation must be removed. Let the under clothing be soft and 
light and talcum powder applied freely. 

The effect of different degrees of heat and 
,„,. T „ .. s cold upon the skin expresses itself in such com- 

mon difficulties as burns, scalds, sunburn, frost 
bites and chilblains. The symptoms in these cases are similar, 
whether caused by heat or cold, and there may be different degrees 
of disturbance from simple congestion to gangrene of the skin. 

Skin irritations often follow the taking of too many drugs. The 
salts of iodine or bromine, if taken for an extended period or in 
large quantities, will almost always produce skin eruptions. 

The causes and number of substances that excite inflammation 
are large and the mineral irritants are numerous ; often the coloring 
in some piece of wearing apparel, or the chemical substance in soap 
is the cause of an attack. 



THE COMPLEXION 327 

There are said to be over sixty plants found in the United States 
that may cause different degrees of dermatitis. Several species 
especially cause active inflammation of the skin, as a result of expo- 
sure or contact. Among these may be mentioned Poison Ivy, Poison 
Oak, (Rhus Diversiloba), Poison Sumac (Rhus venenata), a very 
poisonous variety of dwarf sumac, Poison Dogwood and Poison 
Elder (found in South Carolina). 

The effect of Rhus poisoning upon the skin varies in intensity, 
with pronounced sensations of burning and itching. Sometimes the 
entire surface is affected, but usually the face, hands and genitals 
only, are involved. The disease may run from one to six weeks, and 
in the early stages, it may spread or be communicated, but after the 
poison has been absorbed, or reduced by applications, there is no 
danger of contagion. It takes the disease from a few hours to four 
or five days to develop. 

After the susceptibility to Rhus poisoning has been once estab- 
lished, it is difficult to prevent it from becoming chronic. The treat- 
ment of all forms of inflammation of the skin, produced by external 
irritation, either from the animal, vegetable or mineral kingdom, 
should be based on general principles and the source of irritation 
removed. 

Some skin diseases are worse in summer, such as hives, (urti- 
carial), acute eczema, and prickly heat, (eczema solare) and some 
are worse in winter, as chronic eczema, itching. (Pruritus) and the 
itch, (Psoriasis). This may be due to improper diet, which should 
then be different in warm than in cold weather, or to outdoor life, 
which brings one more in direct contact with vegetation. 



328 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Psoriasis is helped by sea baths and warm salt baths may be 
taken in the winter for this disease. 

For nervous or over-worked persons, plenty of sleep, regular 
hours and as much rest as possible is necessary, especially a com- 
plete mental and physical relaxation of ten minutes before each meal, 
with one-half hour's rest or inactivity after meals. 

These growths are of a small fibrous nature. They 
Skin Tumors ,. „ . , ., . . 

fF'h "> are usua Wy * ew m number and cause no serious incon- 
venience. They vary in size, sometimes being not 
larger than half a pea, and again as large as an egg. They 
also vary in shape and consistency. They may be round and em- 
bedded in the tissues, or they may be pendulous, soft and gelatinous, 
or hard and fibrous. 

They are most frequently found on the face or neck, and as they 
give no special physical inconvenience, the relief sought is more for 
unsightliness than discomfort, except in cases where the growths in- 
crease to abnormal size. Then the annoyance is great. The small 
tumors may often be absorbed through the blood or circulatory 
channels. 

Facial massage will be found valuable in keeping the involuntary 

muscles of the skin active, the pores open and the circulation good. 

All tumors are due to imperfect or impeded circulation, so if the 

skin is properly cared for, massaged and fed, and the circulation 

normal, these little tumors will many times disappear. 

Beware of any medicine, lotion or powder adver- 

_, . L . tised to stop excessive perspiration. A deodorizer 

Perspiration r 

and absorbent may be used, but the sweat glands are 
Nature's outlet for the poisons of the system and if clogged or closed, 
the poisons will be hoarded ; the kidneys will be over-taxed in an effort 



THE COMPLEXION 329 

to do their own work and that of the skin, also; in that case, some 
form of renal disease might result. 

Sometimes excessive perspiration is caused by a weakened con- 
dition of the nerves. In that event, the relief lies in strengthening 
the nerves by rest, exercise, sunshine, breathing and diet. When 
the face perspires freely the complexion is usually clear, the perspira- 
tion serving to carry away impurities ; but it is sometimes necessary 
to use a slightly astringent lotion to prevent the pores from becom- 
ing too large. 

The importance of keeping the pores of the 
Care of Feet 

Affects Complexion soles of the feet open as a means of preserving 
a good complexion must be fully dwelt upon. 

The sweat glands in the palms of the hands, the soles of the feet and 

under the arms are more numerous than on any other equal area of 

the body. The amount of impurities which are thrown off through 

the pores of the skin, and which are hoarded within the body, if not 

emitted, may readily be judged by the odor of the perspiration here. 

When the time comes that the American woman wears sandals or 

ventilated shoes, there will be a marvelous clearing of complexions. 

The hose should be changed frequently, and if worn two days 

in succession they should be dried and aired each night, the soles of 

the feet should be rubbed very briskly with a good flesh brush, and 

otherwise treated as suggested in "Treatment of the Feet," in this 

series of lessons. 

The daily bath, followed by a thorough fric- 

Effect of Bath .. . .. . . 

TT o i • tion ot the skm, is important to everv woman 

Upon Complexion ^ 

who would have a clear skin. It has a very 
noticeable tonic effect upon the complexion. By the daily baths 



330 BEAUTY A DUTY 

the nerve force of the entire body is evenly distributed; in conse- 
quence the circulation is uniform throughout the body and the 
complexion reflects this relaxation and distribution of force, by at 
once becoming clear, while the face reflects the rest which is another 
word for physical harmony, resulting from the even and natural 
distribution of force. The warm bath relaxes nerves, which are 
too tense, and the cold bath, where the nerves are sufficiently strong 
to react, is the most effective nerve tonic. 

Hot baths are too enervating; they should not be indulged in 
except upon the advice of a health specialist, who understands the 
nerves and their power of reacting. 

Cold baths drive the blood from the surface to the deeper veins 
and arteries flushing and nourishing them with blood, setting free, 
blood corpuscles and returning to the surface with a strong reaction. 
There is no better skin tonic than a bath in cold soft water, followed 
by a brisk rub. 

The skin is constantly throwing off the impurities of the body 
and if the dust and dirt which has accumulated during the day is 
not removed, it clogs the pores and a great deal of the impurities are 
retained in the system. These impurities have, of course, their 
direct effect upon the blood, which in turn affects the color of the 
skin, its smoothness and its vitality. 

A warm bath should always be followed by a cool or cold bath 
or an alcohol rub, that the pores of the skin may be closed. 

The massage for the face, together with proper 
Fat F c attention to a diet which puts on flesh, and to exercises 
for circulation, so that the system may assimilate the 
food, are the only means of permanently plumping the face. 



THE COMPLEXION 331 

Regular attention to exercise, and diet to correct the tendency 
to store up too much fat, must be the permanent method of reducing 
fat faces, but they may also be reduced by massage; the work for 
reduction is more firm and more vigorous, and should be applied 
more frequently, than for plumping the face; where the same exer- 
cises are carried to a point of fatiguing the muscles and overheating 
the face, they assist in carrying away the fat. 

When massage is followed for the relief of too much fat in the 
face, attention must be given to the free use of cold water, and after 
that an astringent wash may be used to assist the cold water in 
tightening the skin. 

Superfluous hair originates in unnatural capil- 
Superfluous Hair lary growth. The condition may be acquired or 
congenital. The most distressing cases are the 
facial hirsuties of women, which appear most frequently upon the 
lower jaw and the upper lip. It is not only mortifying and disfig- 
uring, but many times mental depression and melancholia are accom- 
panying symptoms. 

It has been generally observed that unusual growths of hair 
accompany derangements of the nervous system, and in fully one- 
half of the cases there will exist some sexual derangement, amenor- 
rhea being the most frequent. In many cases the hairs first appear 
at the menopause, thereby strengthening the theory that the men- 
strual function possesses no little etiological importance. The ap- 
parent causes are, however, not by any means uniform, being more 
•or less obscure in origin. Racial tendency, so-called heredity, and 
nervous influences are probable factors. 

Constant applications of poultices will sometimes cause a growth 



332 BEAUTY A DUTY 

of hair, also constant exposure of the arms or any part of the body 
to extreme heat or to the sun. 

The electric needle is the only safe and permanent method of 
destroying superfluous hair, but this treatment must be given by a 
thoroughly competent manipulator or the root of the hair may not be 
destroyed, in which event the hair may grow again. 

The immediate after-effect of electrolysis is a formation of 
urticarial wheals, with more or less inflammation. It is advisable 
after each electrical treatment to bathe the parts, where the hair has 
been removed, for ten minutes at a time, three or four times a day, 
with water as hot as can be borne. This will reduce the local dis- 
turbance of the skin noticeably and allay inflammation. If care is 
used by the operator of the electric needle, no scars will result, but 
when the skin is very thin on the upper lip, and the hairs numerous, 
minute pits are sometimes formed. 

Twenty to sixty hairs are generally removed at one sitting, the 
time of each treatment varying from one-half to three quarters of an 
hour. 

When the hair root is thoroughly destroyed, the superfluous 
hair will not return, but if the destruction is not sufficiently effective, 
it necessitates repeating the operation. 

Shaving, epilation and depilatories give no permanent results; 
they usually stimulate the growth and do more harm than good. 

The X-ray method of treatment is very difficult and tedious and 
not advisable, except in cases of exaggerated type or those to which 
electrolysis is not applicable. The long, fine, downy hairs will not 
usually yield successfully under the X-ray treatment, and exposure 
to the X-ray is often followed by a development of more hair. Many 



THE COMPLEXION 333 

of the X-ray cases are known to have been under treatment for 
months and even two or three years, while a return of hair is known 
after 106 treatments. The dangers are so many, and the results so 
uncertain with the X-ray, that the conditions do not seem serious 
enough to justify the risks, and the electric needle is preferable, for 
the majority, if not all cases. 

Peroxide of Hydrogen may be used to bleach the 
tt • hair on the face and arms and make it less conspicuous. 

Before applying, first thoroughly wash the parts 
with warm water and soap to completely remove the oil ; then bathe 
with two or three applications of warm water to remove all traces 
of soap; next apply the peroxide freely over the surface. It is not 
necessary to dilute it. It may be necessary to repeat the process 
two or three days in succession. Be sure that the hairs are thor- 
oughly clean before applying the peroxide. Where hairs are not 
too annoying it is as well to bleach as to remove them,— there is 
absolutely no danger in bleaching as above. (See page 81.) 

Wrinkles are not always indicative of old age. In 
Wrinkles fact, many women reach the age of sixty years or more, 
with scarcely a line on their faces. Just how soon 
wrinkles develop, depends upon the physical condition of the woman, 
as well as upon the care she takes of her skin, — especially after she 
passes thirty or forty years. 

There is no reason why one should grow prematurely wrinkled 
and old. If care be given to watch the thoughts, with simply patient, 
every day following of a few directions, and attention to a good circu- 
lation and good blood all wrinkles can be removed. Good blood is 
gained by attention to exercise for the vital organs, that the food 



334 BEAUTY A DUTY 

may be digested, assimilated and the waste from the system elimi- 
nated ; attention to deep breathing, that the blood be fully purified ; 
and to a diet which does not overload the system. 

If one is in moderately fair health, no woman need despair of 
eradicating every wrinkle in her face; but, remember that it takes 
months and not days of every day massage. 

If the eyes are weak or seem sinking back into the head, one 
needs to attend to a few eye exercises to strengthen the muscles about 
them. 

Wrinkles are caused by frequent muscular contractions, which 
continuously crease the epidermis and crowd the papillae of the true 
skin in the direction of the muscular tissue, drawing with it the 
epidermis, which dips down in waves over the papillae. (See Fig. 
1, illustrating the skin). If continued for any length of time, and if 
the skin is inelastic so that it will not contract to fit the tissues be- 
neath, the epidermis is drawn as deep as the muscular tissues and 
if it remains in this shrunken condition, it becomes almost atrophied 
and wrinkles result. 

These tissues can be brought back to normal condition and the 
papillae developed, if a good circulation of nourishing blood be 
brought to them and the habits, which have assisted in the formation 
of the wrinkles be corrected; the old skin will be shed, the new 
skin growing from beneath, can be made to retain its normal con- 
dition and elasticity,— if the tissues be well nourished and the skin 
properly cared for. 

The removal of the epidermis, as practiced by some dermatolo- 
gists, eradicates wrinkles for the time being, but unless the cause 
of the wrinkles be removed, they will return. It seems more sensible, 



THE COMPLEXION 335 

more natural and is much safer, to remove the cause by strength- 
ening the tissues and regaining their elasticity through the normal 
facial exercise, though it takes longer. As Nature is constant- 
ly shedding the cuticle the above extreme method of entirely removing 
it by chemical process seems cruel and unnecessary as well as being 
dangerous, uncertain and temporary in its results. The outer skin 
is being shed every day, the true skin continually working nearer 
the surface and growing into the epidermis, as shown on page 275. 

The permanence of wrinkles depends upon : 

the elasticity of the skin; 

the tone of the nerves and the resultant tensity of the mental 
attitude ; 

hygienic living ; 

proper amount of sleep and relaxation; 

freedom from sickness; 

and the development of sufficient fatty globules beneath the skin 
to supply a natural cushion. 

The elasticity will be promoted by exercises, which work the 
tissues until flexible and bring a circulation of nourishing blood to 
the skin. 

Hygienic living which promotes better blood, stronger nerves, and 
a more normal functioning of every vital organ, has everything to do 
with the condition of the skin. If one is deprived of sufficient sleep 
the skin will soon take on a wrinkled appearance. Food must be 
sufficiently nourishing to make good, rich blood, which is needed by 
all tissues and for forming a good "cushioning" for the epidermis. 
A good circulation of nourishing blood to every tissue of the 
body, the nerves toned and kept under good control, and simple daily 



336 BEAUTY A DUTY 

exercise movements for the face and neck, will cause the skin of the 
face to regain its tone and elasticity. Then it will not wrinkle any- 
more than the skin on any part of the body. 

A tendency to wrinkle is, of course, aggravated by illness, which 
usually lowers the vitality of the blood and prevents the skin from 
being properly nourished. 

It must be borne in mind that wrinkles cannot be relieved, if the 
tense mental attitude and habits, which contribute so much toward 
their formation, are presisted in. A normal mental poise quickly 
effects the facial nerves and is a prime agency in the removal as well 
as the prevention of wrinkles. If a certain line of thought be main- 
tained a long time, certain facial nerves contract and the flow of blood 
is retarded, which means restricted nourishment. The skin here 
adjusts itself to the depressions caused by the nerve contraction and 
the result is, first a little line, and then a pronounced wrinkle. 

Disagreeable and depressing thoughts cause vertical, as well as 
drooping lines in the face, while thoughts of brightness, good will and 
cheer cause horizontal, or uplifting lines. No one need worry about 
the little lines which are so often found in the face of the happy, 
jolly woman, whose laugh cheers every one she meets and whose 
advent is always welcomed. 

How we cherish the peaceful lines on the dear old faces of those 
who are nearing home ! They tell of a mind at peace with the world 
and of the kind thoughts held toward those around them for years. 
They are the sunbeams pointing to the light beyond. 

Intense thought contracts the brows and, if sustained any length 
of time, will create a vertical line between the eyebrows. This is 
sometimes called the "Thought line," but as it often results from 



THE COMPLEXION 337 

incessant worry, or nerve tension, it may be called the "worry line" 
as well. The line between the eyes results also from weak eyes. 
In the effort of Nature to shield the eyes, the brows contract. Sleep- 
ing in a light room will also cause these vertical lines. The eyelids 
will not shut out all the light ; therefore, opaque shades should be used 
in all sleeping rooms. 

A person who is obliged to sleep in a room partially lighted, or 
into which light streams in the morning, may protect the eyes by a 
band of black velvet ribbon, leaving the ends joined by three inches 
of rubber tape. This can be adjusted instantly when once made to 
fit easily and will be found a boon to those desiring sleep when light 
cannot be shut out. Be careful in adjusting the band not to allow 
it to draw the face in such a manner as to deepen lines. 

The so-called "crow's feet" at the corners of the eyes are usual- 
ly caused by laughter, but can be kept from becoming permanent or 
disfiguring by relaxing the facial nerves and muscles and keeping 
the skin well nourished by a good circulation. 

The horizontal lines across the forehead are frequently caused 
by the habit of lifting the eyebrows constantly when talking ani- 
matedly, thinking seriously or reading anything exciting; yet they 
come frequently from the habit of meeting a proposition which is 
not pleasing, with a protest, rather than with cheer. The defect be- 
comes all the more pronounced if the skin is not elastic and the scalp 
free. The skin and muscles of the head should be sufficiently free 
to respond to the movements of the forehead. 

Mothers should carefully watch the facial habits which the child 
is forming. Unnecessary lifting or contracting the brows should be 



338 BEAUTY A DUTY 

corrected in children and young people, else the lines will become 
deeper as middle life is reached. 

Cultivate a calm mental poise, and do not form habits of "screw- 
ing" the face up, as it creates unnecessary lines, which it is difficult 
to relieve, even by the best of care. The "ounce of prevention" in 
the case of wrinkles, is far better than ' ' the pound of cure. ' ' 

Eemember that ill health, which, of course has much to do with 
the formation of lines in the face and neck, can be taken philosophi- 
cally. Resignation to the inevitable and a perfect relaxation of 
every nerve and muscle will have their effect in softening the lines of 
the face. 

Do not carry the problems of the day to bed with you. Sixteen 
out of twenty-four hours are sufficient to devote to them. Thorough- 
ly relax your mind, as well as your body, when you lie down for sleep, 
leaving the unfinished problems for solution to-morrow. The night 
gently covers all nature with a soft, subdued coverlet of sleep. If 
the brain is properly rested during sleep, problems, which seemed 
mountainous before retiring, will become as mole-hills in the morn- 
ing. Try to fall asleep each time, with some wholesome, pleasing 
thought in mind, after taking out from the face the lines of the day 
by light facial exercise. Just a few minutes will do for this. 

Sleep, in judicious amount, is one of the best possible preven- 
tives of wrinkles. Nature requires fully eight hours and whenever 
possible, a short period of complete relaxation should be taken in the 
mid-afternoon. At least the eyes should be closed for a short period 
each day. Think how little chance we give the eyes for rest! 

Let it not be forgotten that it is much easier to prevent than to 
remove wrinkles and that if the skin be undernourished by poor blood, 



THE COMPLEXION 339 

the treatment for wrinkles must be preceded by exercise and diet 
before local treatment will be effective. 

Any woman can care for her skin as well as the masseuse, by 
exercising it a few minutes each day, so that the circulation may be 
promoted and tissues developed, but the work must be regular, not 
spasmodic. Once a week at a beauty establishment will not accom- 
plish nearly the results that a few minutes daily before your own 
mirror will do. 

Remember that no one can do for you what Nature intended you 
should do for yourself; therefore, use your God-given intelligence 
in the development and preservation of the physical charms of which 
you are possessed. 

Facial exercises are not printed here, because each 

E . individual must be guided according to the work her 

face needs. If a face is firm and plump it should not be 

massaged. Many young girls imagine they need massage, when it 

is better to let their faces alone. 

The face should not be exercised indiscriminately, at any time 
of the day, but systematically, as directed, at a definite time. At 
night is the best time, because it removes the lines and the dirt of 
the day and leaves the tissues free and the skin smooth for the night. 
If evening engagements prevent the time at night, exercise in the 
morning, or at some other time during the day, but always, at least, 
cleanse at night and apply a little cold cream or skin food. Leave this 
on the face about ten minutes and wipe off thoroughly with a clean, 
dry cloth. Enough will remain after the surplus is thus removed to 
keep the skin soft. A thorough cleansing of the face before retiring 
should not be neglected. 



340 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Eemember that by working with the muscles until they become 
invigorated, the effect will be salutary, more nourishment will be 
brought to them and the result be gratifying ; but if the work be con- 
tinued too long, the nerves will become fatigued and the muscles will 
relax so that the effect for which one is working is lost. This shows 
the value of a little regular work at home every day, rather than 
extended treatment at the beauty establishment once a week. 

Six to ten minutes is about the amount of time necessary to 
exercise one 's face daily. 

The same principles, in regard to the general direction of move- 
ments, are not followed for facial massage as are followed for mas- 
sage of the scalp or other parts of the body. The general principle 
here, in quickening the circulation, is to empty the veins and lym- 
phatics by working toward the heart; if this principle were applied 
to the face the muscles would be dragged downward, while all work 
with the face should be to counteract the downward tendency and 
the movements are all upward and outward. By following this 
principle the circulation is quickened through the arteries, which 
forces a better action through the veins. 

For soothing the nerves it will be noted, that the movement 
should be made from the ears toward the nose, but this direction is 
not followed on the face because it would deepen wrinkles and the 
whole purpose of facial work is to quicken through renewed 
circulation gained partly through quickened nerve impulse. In work- 
ing with the cheeks and forehead toward the ears, the nerve impulse 
is quickened. 

Do not stand for facial massage. Sit before your mirror. Dur- 
ing the process of massage the nerves should not be too tense, and 



THE COMPLEXION 341 

they will be more relaxed if the massage is taken in a sitting position 
and as a pleasure, rather than as a mere duty. Never attempt to mas- 
sage your face without watching your work to see that you do not 
create one line while eradicating another. 

Always treat the neck with the face, or it will leave a noticeable 
difference in the texture of the skin. 

The use of plenty of cold water on the face and under and about 
the chin helps to keep the skin firm. 

The hands and face must always be thoroughly cleansed before 
beginning the massage ; but whether the cleansing be done with soap 
and water, a cream, or some other ingredient, will depend upon the 
individual case. 

The scalp should be thoroughly loosened about the hair line, as 
directed under Scalp Massage, so that the tissues about the forehead 
move more freely. 

Sufficient skin food or face cream, or whatever lubricant is di- 
rected for you, should be applied, just enough so that the hands will 
move smoothly over it and the skin will not be drawn. Do not mas- 
sage the face at any time without a lubricant, because it stretches 
the skin too strongly and do not apply too much. 

There are various ideas in regard to rubbing, with or across 
wrinkles, but it should be borne in mind that the whole effort in all 
work is not to deepen the crease of the wrinkle, or to create new 
lines. 

In ironing out wrinkles in clothes, you do not iron across the 
wrinkle and force it deeper, but in the direction of the wrinkle, with 
the point of the iron rubbing in the direction of the crease; or if you 
rub across the creases, with one hand you stretch the crease open, so 



342 BEAUTY A DUTY 

that the iron will reach the deep part of the fold. The purpose in 
moving the fingers in the direction of the wrinkle is to get at the 
tissues in the crease. If at any time the movement is made across 
a wrinkle, a movement in the opposite direction is made with the 
other hand. 

If the neck is thin, the carriage of not only the head 
The Neck but the shoulders, hips, knees— and, in fact, the entire 
body must be carefully studied. Sometimes the chest 
must be developed and chest carriage taught before the neck will be 
filled out and sometimes the digestive and nervous systems must be 
built up, so as to encourage flesh over the entire body. 

In the reduction of a double chin and in bringing a fat neck to 
lines of grace and symmetry, one must often reduce the entire body 
and learn bodily poise. If the head be carried too far forward, as 
is the case with the majority of people, it is usually due to faulty 
carriage of hips and chest. Faults such as these must be corrected 
by exercise. 

The muscles and ligaments of the neck are best developed and 
the vertebrae and spinal cord freed, by exercise for bending, twisting 
and stretching. Exercise for the neck is of the utmost importance 
in the relief of headaches, eye-strain, deafness or catarrh,— or, in 
fact, any difficulty with the head, which depends upon a free elimina- 
tion of the waste from it, and upon a toning of the nerves and 
sufficient nutriment brought to the nerves and other tissues. Exer- 
cises of the neck materially affect the vagus nerves which control 
the breathing, the heart and, to a certain extent, all digestive func- 
tions. The most effective way to reach the medulla oblongata (one of 



THE COMPLEXION 343 

the most important nerve centers at the base of the brain) and the 
centers controlling the vagus nerves is by flexure of the entire spine. 

The circulation through the head is fairly easy to control, by 
massage exercise, because the veins and the lymph channels lie so 
close to the surface in the neck. The location of these is illustrated 
in Figures E and F. 

It must be borne in mind, always, that the quality of blood has 
everything to do with the development of tissues and that no amount 
of exercise or massage can develop them, unless the blood be rich in 
nutriment. 

While recognizing the fact that the 

Face Creams, Skin Foods .,.,. „ „ , , ,. 

■n condition ot the skin depends upon the 

Powders, etc. l ^ 

health, and that when the bodily condition 
or ill health is corrected the skin will respond, yet the condition can 
also be helped by outward applications to the skin itself, and the 
purpose of this work is to help the woman to correct the condition 
as it is, as quickly as possible, and not merely to theorize upon it. 

Water, air, exercise and sunshine are God's free tonics and are 
unexcelled. Use them freely. Some lose sight of this and try to 
patch themselves up with creams and powders, while others decry 
creams and powders as agents of vanity. There is an extreme in 
the use of any cosmetic but there is also a happy medium. 

One cannot be too careful about the indiscriminate use of 
creams, skin foods, powders, soaps, etc. It is difficult to know, 
always, what is good for the individual face, because where condi- 
tions seem equal a food or lotion which agrees with one face will not 
agree with another; when one has found the cream, soap or powder 
adapted to her face, she should cease to experiment. 



344 BEAUTY A DUTY 

My hope is that each of my pupils will simply realize that by 
a thorough cleansing of the face at night, a few minutes devoted to 
exercising of the face in the morning, and the selection of a cleansing 
cream and a skin food adapted to her, individually, she will have all 
that is necessary. She should then cease to be concerned about the 
things which are good for the face of this friend or that friend. 

After the normal activity of the skin has been regained, if the 
face be regularly exercised and the physical condition be kept nor- 
mal, all your dressing table needs is a face cream and a good powder. 
Much of the printed matter upon the face, the removal of 
wrinkles, facial blemishes, etc., which falls into the hands of most 
women, is written by those who make or sell face creams, powders, 
lotions, etc., and they naturally dwell upon the importance of the 
goods they have to sell, giving little or no information as to the 
ingredients. 

We all know that the real food for the complexion is the blood. 
By massage we bring this food to the skin and thus nourish it. The 
masses of the people do not come in contact with medical works 
upon those subjects and having seen creams, etc., exploited as reme- 
dial agents, the average woman has quite naturally come to feel that 
by simply putting on a face cream or a skin food, she may correct 
all sorts of ills to which the skin of her face is heir. If the skin is 
burned by reason of excessive exposure to the air or sun, as is the 
case with a burn on any part of the body, the soothing lotion will 
assist in this healing, or will keep the air from it while Nature does 
the healing; but the real remedy comes through the blood and is 
regulated by diet, rest, fresh air, sunshine and exercise; therefore, 
it must always be borne in mind in treating the face that the 



THE COMPLEXION 345 

nourishment to the skin comes from within — not from without, — 
and that no skin food actually nourishes. It softens and supplies 
oil in the glands where Nature is not supplying a sufficient amount. 
This artificial supply is but temporary, and must be applied daily. 

Many writers expounding face creams, etc., will tell you to pre- 
pare your face in such and such a manner, that the ingredients in 
the skin foods, creams, ointments, etc., may penetrate the skin. Let 
me call your attention to the fact that the skin is a protective agent, 
and nothing penetrates the healthy skin, with the exception of alco- 
hol and the air which the skin "breathes." Oil which is put upon 
the skin will go into the glands, but no farther, and when one thinks 
of the thinness of the skin it will be realized that these glands are 
very shallow. Oil very often oozes out again. 

The alcohol will penetrate so far as to affect the delicate nerve 
filaments throughout the skin and about the capillaries and thus 
encourage a better activity of the nerves here and a better flow of 
blood through the capillaries. The skin thus becomes better nour- 
ished through the more copious blood supply. 

If it were true that all sorts of ingredients permeate the skin, 
then bacteria, poisons and chemical elements of every description 
would enter into the blood stream from the surface and very ser- 
iously affect the health. If a physician wishes to affect the body 
from the surface, he pricks through this protective covering, as in 
the case of a hypodermic injection, or, where another remedy is 
desired, he scrapes through the skin before applying the ingredient 
which he wishes to be absorbed by the blood stream. 

Keep the tissues free, use sufficient cold cream in massage to 
allow the hands to move smoothly upon the skin, that it may not be 



346 BEAUTY A DUTY 

stretched too much in the massage movements,— this is the chief 
value of cream upon the face during massage. If the face seems dry 
and there is not sufficient lubrication within the oil cells, a little skin 
food may be used for a few times. It will be noted that almost all 
of the ingredients of the skin food are oil, with just a little gum to 
make it seem not quite so oily and to enable the fingers to apply it 
better. 

Nothing is gained by going to extremes with the face. A little 
daily intelligent care is all that is required and when the habit is 
formed it is easy— habit requires no conscious effort. 

Just a few minutes ' care morning and night will awaken the tis- 
sues, bringing good circulation to the skin and if it has been exposed 
to drying winds, a little cream to lubricate it ; but as one progresses 
with the massage movements, bringing a better circulation to the 
skin and better activity of the oil glands, less cream will be required. 
Nature will soon provide the quantity sufficient for one's needs. 

When the skin is too oily, it is because the sebaceous glands are 
not retaining their normal amount of oil— it is all being forced out 
upon the surface. Lotions containing salts, which extract the mois- 
ture from the face, or alcohol in any form, are often recommended 
for drying the skin, but the best relief for an oily skin is massage. 

If the skin is dry and shriveled, a good "skin food" should be 
used, and when the skin is dark, discolored, and freckled, exercise 
and a whitening cream will bleach it. 

A skin food is intended to fill the sebaceous glands, where the 
natural secretions of oil in the glands is not sufficient ; but where the 
face is worked thoroughly, the glands will excrete their natural 
amount of lubricating oil and the skin foods will not, under ordinary 



THE COMPLEXION 347 

conditions, be necessary. However, where one is exposed regularly 
to winds, which unduly dry the moisture from the skin, a face cream 
or skin food should be applied to replace that which is abnormally 
removed by the drying winds ; or, if by reason of the blood condition, 
the skin be too dry, they keep it soft. 

Skin foods, as a rule, contain animal oil, such as lanolin (the 
oil from the sebaceous glands of sheep) and spermaceti (oil from the 
head of the sperm-whale). 

Many authorities claim that animal oils promote the growth of 
hair, while vegetable oils (olive oil, almond oil, etc.) do not; but 
vaseline is a purely vegetable oil, made from petroleum, a product 
of the coal beds, and thus made from fossil organisms largely vege- 
table, yet there is no better agency in the promotion of growth of hair 
than vaseline, so that the theory that animal and not vegetable oils 
promote hair growth, does not hold. 

It is probable that, where hair does not by nature grow long, 
the application of oil will not promote its growth. If hair grows 
on the chin after oil has been applied, this hair would doubtless have 
grown without the oil. This will probably always be a question, 
however, and the woman on whose face the hairs are beginning to 
grow, will be safer, when applying either skin foods or face creams, 
to avoid the chin and the upper lip. 

A good cream should be always applied to the face before going 
out of doors, if one is to be out and exposed to the winds for any 
length of time; after the cream is wiped off, a good face powder 
should be used; this will help to protect it from the dust. In the 
absence of a good prepared cream, or skin food, the cream of cows' 
milk will answer the purpose. 



348 BEAUTY A DUTY 

A good cream or skin food should always be used, also, in con- 
nection with exercise, and many prefer to use it in place of water 
for cleansing the face. It is preferable to hard water, but as a 
cleansing agent nothing equals soft water. The oxygen in the soft 
water is an actual tonic to the skin, but the lime in hard water is 
most injurious to a soft, smooth skin. The exhilaration of a cold 
bath of soft water expresses itself in the deep breath of satisfac- 
tion, which nature instigates as the fresh water touches the face or 
body. 

Creams should not be left upon the face over night, as too much 
oil prevents the excretions of waste which, in a healthy skin is 
constantly being given off by the sebaceous and sweat glands and 
the oil prevents the absorption of oxygen. 

Astringent washes are used where the pores are too large or 
the skin is loose and flabby. Astringents should never be used until 
the face has been thoroughly cleansed. In case of a dry and wrin- 
kled skin they should never be applied until after the face has been 
thoroughly cleansed and massaged to make the skin elastic. 

If the skin be kept in a normal condition, however, and be regu- 
larly exercised, it will be elastic and will so contract as to snugly 
cover the tissues beneath, without the use of astringents. Cold 
soft water with a little salt in it, is as good an astringent as can be 
used. 

Too much cannot be said in favor of exercise of the face to 
bring natural nourishment to the skin through the blood, instead 
of the indiscriminate use of face creams, skin foods, etc., because 
"It has helped So and So," or "So and So says that such and such 
a cream is good," etc. 



THE COMPLEXION 349 

There is no experiment in bringing Nature's tonic of good blood 
to the face, while there is always an experiment in putting on a face 
cream, unless you know the elements contained in the cream, and it is 
impossible for you to know the ingredients in the creams you buy, 
because manufacturers of skin foods, face creams, etc., naturally 
will not give their secret to the public. 

One of the leading manufacturers of skin foods states that where 
they do give their formulas, they include some particular chemical, 
which cannot be gotten at the ordinary drug store, so that the indi- 
vidual is not able to have her druggist put up the cream. The sim- 
plest cream, containing the simplest ingredients, is best. Many 
women are clever in compounding their own skin foods and face 
creams and can often do so as well as the manufacturers. The 
danger here lies in making too much at a time so that it becomes 
rancid before used. For this reason, also, it is well to buy these 
things fresh from the manufacturer, or from a druggist who sells 
such quantities that his supply is fresh. 

Many women use successfully upon the face, pure witch hazel, 
or Pond's extract, which is another name for the same thing. The 
effect of either of these rubefacients is a stimulation of the tiny 
nerve ends in the skin, resulting in a contraction of the capillaries; 
this instigates a better flow of blood to them. It will be noted that, 
after all, it is the better blood current which is most to be desired. 
The muscles of the face are invigorated by exercise and a better tone 
and strength brought to them by the fresh blood flowing through 
and around them. The skin is thus made more elastic, also, because 
the oil glands and the capillaries are awakened. 



350 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It is evident therefore that the more we rely upon good blood 
being brought to the skin by exercises and the less we rely upon 
outward applications, the quicker the skin ivill be free from blemishes 
and the rosier will be our cheeks. 

No amount of rouge can take the place of Nature's coloring and 
there are very few women so skilled in applying the rouge that it 
cannot be detected. 

There is a general belief among some people that 
Po de s powders cause large pores. If rice powder is used upon 
the face, without first anointing the face with a cream, 
this may be true. The little granules of rice, coming in contact 
with moisture, swell to twice their size, and if the rice powder 
enters the pores, as it comes in contact with the moisture of the 
flesh, it may expand and distend the ducts. This would also 
apply to the use of starch. As a matter of fact most toilet 
powders purchased are less harmful than these seemingly simple 
applications. The best powders are not made of cereals for the above 
reason, being principally composed of mineral substances, such as 
talcum, which do not swell under the influence of moisture. 

Before powder is applied to the skin, any danger of enlarging 
the pores will be avoided if the skin is moistened with a cold cream. 
The powder will thus be prevented from entering the pores. If one 
lives in a smoky city, or is to be exposed to dust or cinders, the appli- 
cation of a face cream, with a little powder dusted over it, is much 
more cleanly and far less irritating to the skin and less liable to 
cause large pores, than are the soot and dust. 

General formulas are not given here because it is believed that 
each individual 's skin requires its own treatment. 



THE COMPLEXION 351 

Arsenic has been used freely for years for 

_, '. , the relief of cutaneous disorders. Its effect, if 

Preparations and 

Ointments taken internally, is to blanch and clear the skin, 

but in larger doses it creates skin eruptions. 
It should be one of the last remedies used, therefore, and certainly 
never used except upon the advice of a physician, or a health special- 
ist, who understands your case. 

Cod Liver Oil is especially valuable in the treatment of eczema, 
scrofula, syphilis and all skin diseases that require a nutrient for 
the general system. It is highly valuable in the treatment of chil- 
dren afflicted with cutaneous diseases. 

Stimulating Lotions are used principally in acne rosacea, papu- 
lar eczema and seborrhea of the scalp. The ingredients are mostly 
cantharides, sulphur, mercury, oil of tar, salicylic acid, thymol, 
resorcin, menthol, ichthyol, oil of tar, cade, white birch or juniper. 

Astringent Lotions contain tannin, alum, acetic acid, salt, opium, 
salts of silver, iron, formalin, alcohol, etc. Since alcohol is astringent 
it must be borne in mind that lotions containing alcohol come under 
this head:— Tincture of benzoin is eighty per cent alcohol, while witch 
hazel, bay rum, Eau de Cologne and Pond's extract probably contain 
a larger proportion. To guide in judging these,— if a lotion dries 
quickly when applied to the skin it is safe to assume that the as- 
tringent is the drying agent. 

Face Ointments, soothing and slightly astringent lotions con- 
tain lead, boracic acid, bicarbonate of sodium, oxide of zinc, (usually 
dissolved or mixed in water) glycerine, liquor calcis, etc. 

When there is a severe itching or burning sensation of the skin, 

soothing ointments are used. 
23 



352 BEAUTY A DUTY 

The bases of Face Creams are usually lard, vaseline, cold cream, 
lanolin, cocoa butter, spermaceti, almond, cod liver and linseed oil 
and oil of sweet almonds. For modifying agents, spermaceti, wax, 
oils and suet are used in different proportions. White vaseline 
is one of the most satisfactory, especially for the scalp. Lanolin is 
too stiff, unless softened with oil of sweet almonds or cold cream, but 
it forms the basis of many skin foods, as the sticky character 
enables the fingers to better take hold of the skin in massage. 

Almond oil furnishes the best base for a fine face cream. As 
a cream made from any of the nut oils, or inferior grades of oil, 
becomes rancid very soon and irritates the skin badly, it is ad- 
visable always, if one makes her own cream, to mix only a small 
quantity at a time, so it will be fresh. It should always be kept in 
a cool place and the jar tightly covered. 

Alkalis are very helpful in all cases of gouty disorders, and 
also in acne and some forms of eczema. Sodium bicarbonate (sal- 
eratus or baking soda), potassium and lithia are the best. 

Glycerine is derived from certain fats— mainly palm oil— by de- 
composing them with superheated steam. Pure glycerine is sooth- 
ing; the impure article is irritating to any skin. Pure glycerine is 
a most useful adjunct when diluted and added to lotions and oint- 
ments. It may be combined with starch, in different proportions, 
forming a glycerolate, and may be medicated and used as a protec- 
tion to the skin, as in Glycerole of Lead Subacetate. 

Bay Rum contains oil of bay (a volatile oil of the Bayberry of 
the West Indies, used chiefly as a perfume) 16 parts; oil of orange 
peel 1 ; oil of pimento 1 ; alcohol 1000 ; water 782— mixed and filtered 
through carbonate of magnesia. It is astringent and drying. 



THE COMPLEXION 353 

Pastes are especially valuable in open skin affections, when 
salves prove irritating. The pastes form a protective and adhesive 
dressing. 

Rose Water is water tinctured with oil of roses. It is used 
largely on account of its aroma. 

Tincture of Benzoin is twenty per cent benzoin and eighty per 
cent alcohol. Benzoin is a resin obtained from a tree native of 
Sumatra and Siam. It is a stimulant, is antiseptic and a disinfec- 
tant. The tincture is a strong astringent. 

Alcohol is obtained by the distillation of fermented grain or 
starchy substance. It is used in pharmacy as a solvent for resins 
and as a base for all tinctures. Commercial alcohol contains nine 
per cent water. It is used externally as a nerve stimulant. 

Alcohol, carbolic acid, boracic acid and peroxide of hydrogen 
are valuable as disinfectants or antiseptics. Formalin is also excel- 
lent for antiseptic purposes. This, as well as formaldehyde (of 
which it is a solution) is very valuable in the treatment of acne, 
dandruff and eczema. 

Sulphur is often used in the precipitated form in salve for the 
treatment of cutaneous diseases. 

Potassium Permanganate may be used in solutions of from two 
to ten per cent in weeping eczema, and in Ring Worm. It may be 
painted on the affected surface once or twice daily. It is an anti- 
septic and germicide. 

Ichthyol is widely used in cutaneous diseases, especially in 
acne, eczema, pruritus and psoriasis (dry tetter). In solutions 
it may be used from ten to fifty per cent and in salves from five to 
twenty per cent strength. 



354 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Magnesium carbonate is a good absorbent powder. 

Resorcin a substance produced from different resins, may be 
used in ointment at a strength of five to twenty per cent. It relieves 
itching and is an antiseptic and a germicide; it resembles carbolic 
acid in many of its properties. It may be used for disorders of the 
scalp due to dandruff, in lotions at a strength of five to ten per cent. 
It is also used locally as a lotion in diphtheria. 

Boric or boracic acid is of great value in ointments and powders 
for the treatment of skin diseases, and is used very generally; it is 
antiseptic and healing. It is a crystalline substance found native 
in Death Valley, California, and in the volcanic lagoons of Tuscany. 

Salicylic acid is more often used in salves or pastes, but is also 
used in lotions. It also forms a part of most of the corn and wart 
preparations. It acts directly upon the horny tissues of the epi- 
dermis, softening and separating them from their deeper connections. 
It may be used in a weak solution for diseases of the skin due to 
weak nerves. It occurs in free condition in the buds of a species 
of willow and in the oil of wintergreen. 

Carbolic acid is used in treating almost all skin diseases in the 
form of a lotion, salve or paste, principally in lotions having a 
strength of from ten to twenty grains to the ounce. It is produced 
from coal tar and is very poisonous. 

Tincture of Iodine, which is an eight per cent solution of iodine in 
alcohol, is used in certain scalp diseases and as a germicide. It is a 
skin irritant and much used to produce counter irritation. 

Fatty and oily substances should be applied to the skin directly 
or by friction. When applied as a compress or bandage, a soft cloth 
should be saturated with the oil ; or it should be spread on liberally 



THE COMPLEXION 355 

before applying to the affected part and then covered with a soft 
cloth. Absorbent cotton takes up and retains too much of the oint- 
ment. 

For weakly persons, with greasy skins, or a tendency to scrofula, 
poor circulation and cold hands and feet, malt extract or cod liver oil 
is excellent, but regular exercise, baths and deep breathing are 
more effective. 

Maltine and other preparations of malt, alone, or in combination, 
are of great value in promoting nutrition of the skin, and are es- 
pecially valuable in acne. 



Don'ts for the Complexion 

Do not steam the face. 

Do not allow yourself to neglect daily exercise. 

Do not use hard water. 

Do not use soaps containing alkali or animal oil. 

Do not use soap or warm water upon the face just before going 
out. 

Do not use perfumed soaps. 

Do not overtire yourself frequently. 

Do not eat pastry, fried foods, tea, coffee, too rich food, or much 
confectionery. 

Do not overeat, or eat late at night. 

Do not eat between meals, unless directed by a physician and 
then at regular hours. 

Do not wipe the face roughly or use a wash-cloth carelessly. 

Do not go out in the wind without first applying a face cream. 



356 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Do's for the Complexion 

Keep the bowels regular. 

Keep the liver active. 

Keep the nerves strong and rested. 

Keep the stomach strong. 

Learn to breathe correctly. 

Keep the blood circulating well. 

See that your soap is pure. 

Use soft water. 

Use fresh face cream or skin food. (If rancid, they will irritate 
the skin). 

Know the ingredients in the creams you use, when possible. 

Be judicious in eating. 

Eat at regular hours. 

Drink two quarts of water, daily. 

Take a daily bath with a brisk rub after it. 

Get at least eight hours sleep each night. 

Sleep with plenty of fresh air in your room. 

Exercise the face a little every day. 

Be sure that the hands and face are thoroughly cleansed before 
beginning your exercises requiring the use of the hands. 

Keep up a good circulation. 

Keep the bowels, stomach and liver active by daily exercise 
particularly directed to them. 

Take daily exercise for the spinal nerves. 



THE COMPLEXION 357 

Exercise and Massage 

As there are fashions in dress, so there are fashions in faces. 
Today the fashionable face is one which in line and color, shows that 
it belongs to a healthy body. There was a time when fragile beauty 
was in vogue, but that day is past. Few persons admire a face that 
is not animated by health. There is nothing that can take the place 
of exercise and massage as producers of that buoyant beauty which 
today is so much admired. 

Twenty years ago massage, as a therapeutic agent, was con- 
sidered by the American medical profession and by the laity as little 
short of quackery. Physical exercise as a remedial agent, was also 
considered quackery. 

This was partly because the entire study of health principles 
was confined to medical colleges and their work based upon the study 
of materia medica. Just why modern practitioners apparently lost 
sight of the value of the natural agencies is incomprehensible. Hap- 
pily, to-day, the natural methods of relieving all sorts of diseases, 
dependent upon good circulation of pure blood, are growing in favor. 

Dr. S. Weir Mitchell of Philadelphia and Dr. J. H. Kellogg of 
Battle Creek, Mich., have been the pioneers among American medical 
practitioners in using exercise and massage even more freely than 
medicine. 

Most advanced medical colleges and schools are now recognizing 
physical exercise, massage, correct breathing and diet to be stronger 
agents in the permanent relief of many chronic bodily ailments than 
medicine, but there are many old medical schools and many prac- 
tising physicians who have not advanced. These are inclined to dis- 
credit any remedial treatment other than materia medica. However, 



358 BEAUTY A DUTY 

physicians of more advanced thought, who keep up with the progress 
of the age and those who have graduated within the last few years, 
believe in therapeutic agencies. 

Exercise and massage work wonderful results. These aids to 
health have been employed from most ancient times by the Hindoos 
and Persians. Hippocrates, the renowned Greek physician, made 
extensive use of them. He learned both physical exercise and mas- 
sage from his teacher Herodicus, who was the founder of medical 
gymnastics. Before the Christian era, Julius Caesar employed exer- 
cise and massage as a relief from neuralgia. Pliny, the great Roman 
Naturalist, employed massage and exercise as a relief from chronic 
asthma. 

All exercises for the face, hands, ears, eyes and the scalp should 
be given according to the requirements of the individual. It is not 
amiss here, however, to discuss briefly the effect massage and exer- 
cise have upon the health, since the condition of the skin, hair, eyes, 
teeth, nails, etc., are so directly and fundamentally dependent upon 
the condition of the body. 

Primarily, massage has to do with the circu- 

Physiological lation of the blood in the veins and lymph chan- 

Effect of Exercise , . ., ., , „ ., 

, ,, nels, since these are more accessible irom the 

and Massage 

surface than the arteries. Massage deals with 
the nerves in a passive state, thus stimulating the muscles to activity 
without strongly stimulating the nerve centers. 

Physical exercises reach deeper, working directly with the 
muscles and nerves of the vital organs, the deeper tissues, the arter- 
ies, the larger lymph channels and veins, and the larger and deeper 
nerve trunks and ganglia, stimulating energy in them. The stomach, 



THE COMPLEXION 359 

small intestines, pancreas, spleen, intestines, liver, kidneys and 
practically all of the large viscera may be reached partially by mas- 
sage, if employed by a skilled operator, but they are reached more 
effectively by active physical culture movements, especially directed 
to them. The deeper massage should not be employed except by one 
who has a thorough knowledge of the location of all the vital organs, 
the nerve trunks, the lymph and blood channels. Few operators are 
so skilled, so the average operator does well to confine himself mostly 
to the more superficial veinous circulation. 

When the vital organs are reached through exercise directed by 
the mind, both the nerve centers and the circulation are stimulated 
and strengthened. The muscular toning of the vital organs and of 
the large protective muscles is maintained and strengthened by the 
improvement in the nutrition brought to them through exercises; 
the blood is made to flow with a stronger current and with greater 
rapidity, thus picking up more completely all the toxins, which have 
been liberated by the exercises, and where the latter are accompanied 
by deep breathing, this blood is fully purified as it passes through 
the lungs ; the pure blood loaded with fresh oxygen is forcefully sent 
out to every part of the body. The oxygen puts all the poisons and 
waste matter in condition to be carried into the blood stream whence 
they are expelled from the body.* 

Judicious exercises for the stomach and abdomen, cause a freer 
excretion of the digestive juices in the stomach and intestines ; they 
thus more strongly and more promptly act upon the food during the 
process of digestion. 

The manner in which oxygen acts upon the waste matter is described i* the author'9 book upon 
"The Circulation, Lungs, Heart." 



360 BEAUTY A DUTY 

They open up the suction cells of the intestines and the nutri- 
ment from the food is more quickly absorbed. They aid the peri- 
staltic movements of the stomach and intestines and the food is more 
readily moved down the digestive tract, so that it comes in contact 
with more of the digestive fluids. 

Exercise of the legs acts directly upon the portal circulation 
through the abdomen and liver by forcing the blood through the 
portal veins more strongly. This is especially true of exercises in 
a recumbent position. 

Abdominal movements relieve constipation, aid stomach, intes- 
tinal and liver digestion, increase the action of the kidneys, 
strengthen the uterus and ovaries, remove abdominal fat, develop 
weak muscles and promote circulation. 

Massage and exercise are particularly valuable for the liver. In 
its office as a sieve, the liver eliminates the poison in the blood, thereby 
acting as a purifying agent, therefore it is especially necessary that 
the proper amount of oxygen be brought to it. 

Any exercise for the abdominal organs increases the flow of 
blood through the liver by forcing the blood through the portal veins. 

The importance of a normal liver activity will readily be seen, 
also the importance of exercise for the abdomen and for the entire 
middle zone of the body. 

The corset, to a very great degree, retards abdominal activity 
and while the straight front corset allows greater freedom of the 
diaphragm, it restrains the activity of the abdomen, so that the circu- 
lation through the abdomen and liver is retarded and women who 
wear corsets should be particular, each day, to bring a thoroughly 
good circulation through the portal veins by active exercises for this 
purpose. 



THE COMPLEXION 361 

The influence of exercise and massage upon the lymph channels 
is to drain all of the muscle fiber. The external tendons of the 
diaphragm contain a large number of lymph channels. 

There is a metabolic change occasioned by movement whereby 
waste matter is relieved and nourishment given to the flesh tissues. 
The scope of this work, however, does not necessitate a minute 
explanation of the process of anabolism or catabolism. 

The muscles constantly receive a certain amount of blood, but 
this is comparatively small, excepting during activity, so that the 
expression that the muscles are well fed only when exercised, is true. 
While actively at work, they receive one-fourth of the blood of the 
body. 

Where the digestive system is sluggish, there can be no better 
medicine than a good quantity of nourishing blood brought through 
a good circulation to the muscles and tissues. By the better blood 
supply occasioned by exercises directly calling this blood to them, 
the tissues are strengthened and the organs do strongly the work 
which Nature intended ; consequently indigestion, constipation, torpid 
liver, weak kidneys, weak hearts and lungs, etc., are relieved and 
strengthened. 

Medicine relieves the difficulty for the time by simply stimulating 
the nerves which supply them, quickening their action; but this is a 
temporary, unnatural stimulus. The tissues are but little nourished 
by this forced nerve stimulation. The effect of exercise is more per- 
manent, because more natural, and because it brings a more copious 
blood supply, hence more strength to both nerves and tissues. 

There can be no question but that remedial physical exercises 
directed to the vital organs and nerve centers, are very much more 



362 BEAUTY A DUTY 

effective than massage, because they work with deeper tissues and 
cause a regular suction of the organs, bringing out the impure blood 
from the veins and filling the vacuum with pure blood from the 
arteries. 

Massage and exercise have a powerful effect upon 
R . . the circulation by simulating the action of the dia- 

phragm; this forces the natural exercise of the heart, 
lungs, stomach, spleen, kidneys and pancreas by promoting deep 
respiratory movements. 

Of course, the blood is more thoroughly purified as it is brought 
through the lungs, where the waste product is thrown off and fresh 
oxygen taken on. 

When respiration is increased, the flow of lymph in the thoracic 
duct is increased and the functions of the brain are more easily per- 
formed, on account of the more perfect movement of venous blood 
and the better supply of oxygen. 

The lungs and heart are strengthened by massage, but more 
directly by the remedial exercises, which bring the nutrition direct 
to these organs. 

One point in favor of exercise and massage, of 

th Bl d vital importance in the present day, is their effect upon 

the blood-making process, increasing the number of 

red corpuscles and the amount of hemoglobin. The total amount of 

blood contained in the adult normal body is about ten pounds. 

The importance of good blood is readily realized. When it is 
known that there are 20,000 times more corpuscles in the blood of one 
person than there are people in the world, and that each corpuscle 
must pass through the lungs every 22 seconds in order to secure 



THE COMPLEXION 363 

the proper amount of oxygen for the tissues, it will readily be seen 
how great a loss must be suffered when the activity of the blood is 
diminished from ten to twenty-five and even seventy-five per cent, 
as in cases of anaemia. It will readily be seen also, the importance 
of patients troubled with anaemia, attending very definitely to exer- 
cises to create an active circulation and to taking in all of the oxygen 
possible through deep breathing, because, where the number of red 
corpuscles is lacking, the remaining ones must do over-work, in order 
to supply the system with sufficient oxygen to put the waste in con- 
dition to be relieved. 

It must not be inferred from this, that exercise makes red cor- 
puscles, but it does stimulate their making and brings into circula- 
tion a large number, which have previously been retained in the 
vascular viscera of the interior of the body, especially in the spleen 
and liver. Here these little blood corpuscles accumulate in great 
numbers and are destroyed. When they are brought into the blood 
stream by exercise or massage, they are saved from destruction by 
the organs devoted to this purpose. 

Cold baths also increase the number of corpuscles in the circula- 
tion from twenty-five to fifty per cent by causing a vigorous reaction, 
driving the blood from the surface and flushing the vital organs. 

It has been shown that in about half an hour after exercise and 
a cold bath, the number of blood corpuscles sometimes increase 
1,800,000. This is a strong argument in favor of exercise and cold 
baths for anaemic patients. 

The white blood corpuscles are increased in much greater pro- 
portion than the red ones. By their increase, the resistive power of 
the body is greatly strengthened, because these white corpuscles are 



364 BEAUTY A DUTY 

actually an army within the body, constantly fighting to completely 
destroy all foreign bacteria with which we are constantly surrounded. 
They march up and down the body constantly as guards, forcing out 
or annihilating any foreign matter. 

In tuberculosis, it is particularly desirable that the white blood 
corpuscles be strong and in good numbers, because it is these cor- 
puscles which destroy the tubercular bacteria. When the latter 
become too great in number for the white corpuscles to destroy, the 
disease gets the upper hand. 

All of the above tends to show how both massage and exercise 
effect the body through quickened release of the waste and re-supply 
of new nourishment, occasioned by renewed circulation through blood 
vessels and lymph channels. 

Both exercise and massage, if not carried to a point of too great 
exhaustion, act as a tonic for the heart. 

As a preventive of arterio sclerosis, massage is a very valuable 
agent, but it is not to be commended for relief. 

The above explains the mechanical and physiological 
N effect of massage, but there is also a reflex activity of 

the nerves, which plays as important a part as does the 
mechanical. The impression made upon the ends of the sensory 
nerve fibres, connected with the nerve centers of the cerebro-spinal 
and sympathetic systems, is transmitted to their related nerve centers, 
and through these centers to the related nerves, directing a quickened 
activity of all forces of the skin. 

The benefits from massage in nervous diseases are little less 
than marvelous, especially in cases of neurasthenia (tired nerves) 
and this is particularly true when the massage can be given by one 



THE COMPLEXION 



365 



who is congenial and consequently pleasing to the mind of the patient. 

There is a peculiar influence resulting from the mere touch of 
some people. This may be due to an electrical current which passes 
from one body to another. There is probably no occult, hypnotic 
influence about it. If the touch be gentle, and the contact of one's 
hand upon the body warm and the person congenial, so that the mind 
welcomes the contact, the effect is soothing. The very gentleness 
and softness of touch has much to do with this, because when agree- 
able, the nerves of the patient are in a receptive state ; if disagreeable, 
the nerves are braced more or less for resistance;— to get the best 
results, they must be relaxed and responsive. For sedative effects, 
the mind should be relaxed; it is advisable for the patient to close 
her eyes, so that no vision may disturb the relaxed brain. 

In cases of facial neuralgia, relief is often obtained by pressing 
upon the nerves affected at the point where the nerve comes from 
the skull. 




366 BEAUTY A DUTY 

It must be borne in mind that the nerves and tissues can be 
exhausted. The wise operator for face, body or scalp, therefore, is 
she who knows when to stop. From the point of being well stimulated 
and aroused, the nerves respond and the tissues rebuild ; from a point 
of exhaustion, the nerves relax and the muscles become flabby. This 
is one argument in favor of massage of face and scalp being reg- 
ularly done at home for a few moments once a day, rather than for 
an hour once a week at a beauty place. The operator feels she must 
give you your money's worth and she knows that you expect just 
about so much time, while the woman feels she must get the full 
benefit of the treatment and often the facial and scalp nerves are so 
tired that shortly after the operation, they relax and the tissues fail 
to receive the nourishment they would otherwise get. A good way 
to test the result of a facial massage is to note the result the day 
following the treatment. 

Fatigue of muscle is due to a toxic substance, 
Its Reli f which is relieved by physical activity, either of 

muscle or of the brain, and fatigue continues until 
these toxins have been carried away through the circulation. This 
explains the phenomenon by which general exercises for the entire 
body, which cause a quickened circulation and a quickened removal 
of toxins, relieve fatigue. 

Eest is simply harmony of the circulation and of nerve currents, 
and this harmony is re-established by regular exercises, which call 
the undue circulation from the part, which has received too much 
toxin and has thus become fatigued, and distribute it throughout 
the body, forcing it through the lungs and bringing it into contact 
with fresh oxygen. Thus a re-supply of blood, loaded with oxygen, 



THE COMPLEXION 367 

is sent to all parts of the system. This explains why, when one has 
become tired from exercise in one particular part, general exercises 
to distribute the circulation relieve the fatigue. 

Downward massage about the neck and shoulders decreases the 
blood supply in the brain and is particularly restful after excessive 
mental work, which has called too great a supply here. Exercises 
of the neck and spine, followed by a downward stroking movement 
upon the neck, shoulders and spine, are particularly soothing after 
excessive mental labor. The blood current will rapidly take away 
the waste matter and bring a new supply of blood to the nerves and 
tissues. In fact, the entire nerve system responds to renewed circu- 
lation as a result of exercises, either voluntary or passive. 

In all massage movements where the effort is to excite activity 
and bring a better circulation, the movements are in the direction 
of the flow of blood through the face and lymph channels, toward 
the heart. Where the effort is to soothe and retard the circulation, 
the movements are in the direction of the arteries from the heart. 
Thus it is that after excitement, one is "rubbed down," but this 
rubbing down needs an explanation;— the movement is downward 
from below the heart and upward when rubbing in the vicinity of, or 
above the heart. 

Massage for absorption is particularly val- 

For Inflammation . , 

„.. o . nable in cases of sprains, enlargement of the 

ana bprains l 

joints, dropsy, rheumatism, gout, enlarged 
glands, congested blood or lymph from any cause, or in the treat- 
ment of inflamed joints, pelvic pains or local congestions. 

When there is inflammation of a deep-lying organ or tissue, the 
heat is diminished by calling a stronger blood supply to the over- 



^ 



368 BEAUTY A DUTY 

lying tissue, thereby causing the blood to go around, instead of 
through the tissues which have been receiving too much. Conse- 
quently, a proper massage about an inflamed organ will tend to 
decrease the inflammation in the organ. 

This same principle applies to the application of hot water upon 
the skin over an inflamed organ. It calls the blood supply to the 
skin, thus decreasing the supply in the capillaries of the organ. 

Massaging or exercising the joint or tissue next above the 
inflamed part (nearer the heart) will relieve the inflammation by 
emptying the veins and lymph channels of the affected part. 

One other reason for the free use of massage after a sprain or 
bruise is that if it be rightly done, it carries away the waste matter, 
which is broken down by the sprain, through the lymph channels and 
veins. 

It should be borne in mind that massage for a sprain, or inflam- 
mation of any kind, should work toward the heart. The inflamed 
part itself should not be manipulated; the work should begin a little 
nearer the heart than the part affected,— the purpose being to force 
the lymph and venous blood toward the heart. 

Experience shows that both exercise and mas- 
R d Fl h sa ^ e w ^ materially increase the size of any part, 

bringing nourishment to it, especially if the part 
be undersized. Exercise builds up the flesh of the body by improving 
the appetite; the waste of the system being freely thrown off, calls 
for more nutriment in the body. (This is what we call appetite.) 
In a case where the appetite is waning, it is a pretty sure sign that 
the system is being clogged with waste and one should at once take 
as vigorous exercise as is judicious to carry this away. 



THE COMPLEXION 369 

In building up the body through exercise, it must be remem- 
bered, however, that it takes two or three months to show much 
increase in size. 

Excessive exercise will even increase the size of the joints, as 
is shown in the large ankles, wrists and knuckles of those who are 
engaged in manual labor. 

If a part of the body be too large, by reason of too much fat, 
exercises will work it away and bring the muscles to normal, by con- 
suming the glycogen (animal-starch) in the liver and blood, which 
readily turns into fat. The muscles are the actual furnace of the 
body and the body heat is manufactured here by combustion of the 
glycogen. 

It is of the utmost importance in exercises for reduction, that 
they be accompanied by deep breathing, so that the blood be fully 
loaded with fresh oxygen to act upon the glycogen. 

While both exercise and massage increase the heat of the body, 
they do not of necessity increase the body temperature, because they 
cause a freer perspiration and thus the body heat is thrown off. 

The effect of massage upon the skin is to stimulate 
the Skin ^ e swea * an( ^ sebaceous glands and the hair follicles. 

Through reflex influence upon the vaso-motor nerves, 
it increases the supply of blood through the skin, thus promoting 
and increasing the glandular activity. The increased respiration 
and redness of the surface both indicate this. When the skin is dry, 
massage promotes a normal flow of oil through the sebaceous glands. 
Many wrinkles are caused by the skin becoming too dry, thus losing 
its elasticity and tone. The skin is often too oily because of a restric- 
tion of the sebaceous glands, in consequence of which they will not 



370 BEAUTY A DUTY 

retain the oil and it is forced out upon the surface of the face. 
Constant immersion of the face in oil has a tendency to toughen the 
skin. 

It must also be borne in mind that the skin is an organ of respira- 
tion and its activity is thus necessary to enable it to take in oxygen 
and to throw off its share of bodily impurities. By increasing the 
tone of the skin, it is enabled to resist the changes in temperature. 

Tapping and slapping the face and scalp are the most powerful 
means of exciting the nerve trunks, while the sedative and restful 
effects are more especially produced by gentle stroking. Successive 
blows and tapping is one of the best means of causing a contraction 
of a muscle or of the skin. These successive blows, followed one upon 
another rapidly, cause a tetanic contraction of the muscles and this 
brings a better tone and better elasticity, enabling the skin, in cases 
of a wrinkled or flabby condition, to contract to the size of the tissue 
beneath. Strong vibration will also cause this contraction. 

However, massage to build up the muscles of the face and scalp 
must be deeper than stroking or tapping. 

Friction is one of the most reliable and effectve means of 
awakening to activity dormant nerves and nerve centers, as well as 
dormant muscles; in fact, when the nerves are awakened, they are 
sure to awaken the muscles. 

For circulation and exciting the tissues to activity, remember 
that friction is applied in the direction of the veins and lymph 
currents. 

Where sedative effects are desired, the friction is in the opposite 
direction to the flow of the blood through the veins,— thus the circu- 
lation is retarded. 



THE COMPLEXION 371 

Where it is desirable to draw the blood from the brain, the 
movements in the neck and the upper spine are downward toward 
the heart, to empty the veins and lymph channels in the body below 
the heart, and in the lower extremities the movement is downward, 
or opposite the direction of the flow of the venous current ; this holds 
a larger amount of blood in these parts, thus preventing the freer 
flow in the head. In case of headache, or cerebral congestion the 
rubbing should be away from the heart in the lower extremities, to 
impede the flow of the venous blood. 

After a treatment in massage, the movement of stroking is rest- 
ful, not only because of the so-called hypnotic effect, but because of 
the reflex influence upon the nerves acting upon the centers of voli- 
tion. The stroking of the head will often relieve sleeplessness and 
many forms of nervous headaches 

Dr. J. H. Kellogg, of Battle Creek Sanitarium, gives the follow- 
ing directions : 

' ' In applying friction for renewed circulation and for the absorp- 
tion into the circulation of the waste matter, rub : 

"Head— from the forehead and temples backward and down- 
ward to the ears, from the top of the head downward, and down the 
neck. 

"Neck— downward and circular. 

"Back— above shoulder blades, circular; from shoulder blades 
to the sacrum, or about opposite the hip joint, downward ; in the 
region of the loins, from the sides toward the spine. 

"Hips— circular. 

"Chest— from the sternum toward the axilla. 



372 BEAUTY A DUTY 

"Abdomen — upper part, downward and outward; lower part, 
from the center downward and outward. 

"Arms and legs — upward. 

"For sedative effect upon the viscera and nerve centers of the 
viscera, rub downward. This decreases the vascular activity. ' ' 

In massage, either of the face or of the body, some lubricant 
should always be used. Vaseline, cocoanut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, 
or cream from milk will do. 

Headaches are often relieved by friction of the spine; pelvic 
pains by friction of the lower part of the back ; cerebral congestion 
by friction applied to the extremities. 

The most scientific method of treating the face is 
Exercises undoubtedly by means of facial exercises. Through 

the habitual use of the same expression day after day 
or the falling away of the subcutaneous tissue, the muscles of the 
face are prone to become relaxed and drooping while the rest of the 
body remains young, firm and youthful. Massage treats only the 
surface lines and, if applied too deeply or vigorously, it may stretch 
the skin. 

The purposes and object of facial exercises are as follows : 

First, to restore and insure a firm tone and elasticity to the 
muscles of the face and neck, so there may be no drooping lines, no 
falling away of the under skin tissue to result in hollow and sagging 
cheeks and chins. This causes a wonderful improvement in the 
expression of the face, uplifting it, filling out hollows about eyes and 
temples and smoothing out the forehead. 

Second, to awaken the capillaries and nerves of the skin, by 
reflex action, thus taking more blood and nutriment to it. This 



THE COMPLEXION 373 

makes it more flexible and more elastic, so that it readily adjusts 
itself to the tissue beneath. 

Third: to free the oil (sebaceous) glands, so that the skin may 
be supplied with sufficient oil to keep it soft. 

Fourth: to open the glands of perspiration, so that the impur- 
ities may not be hoarded within the skin to choke and distend the 
ducts of perspiration and sebaceous glands, causing irritation and 
pimples. 

When the skin becomes hard and dry by hoarding poisonous 
matter (toxins), the condition may be relieved by the opening of the 
glands. 

The arteries and nerve trunks of the scalp are not far below 
the surface and can be readily reached, yet the best results in work 
for renewed circulation will be affected by directing the movements 
downward with the current through the veins and lymph channels. 
Massage movements downward empty the veins and lymph ducts, and 
the blood flowing in from the arteries quickly fills the vacuum. 

The arteries in the face lie somewhat deeper, but the same 
principle of emptying the veins and the lymph channels applies to the 
face as to the scalp. However, the downward movement of the facial 
muscles should always be succeeded by an upward movement, because 
a continued downward stroking would aggravate the tendency of 
the muscles of the face to sag. 

If the waste matter in the lymph channels and the impure blood 
in the veins is forced toward the heart, they are quickly refilled with 
arterial blood, which nourishes the tissues; this means an elasticity 
and tone, not only in the muscles, but in the skin. 

Facial movements stimulate the nerves of the skin, but their 



374 BEAUTY A DUTY 

chief value is in stimulating the blood and lymph circulation, thus 
encouraging the flow of pure blood for nourishment and removal 
of waste products. The stimulated nerves, of course, instigate the 
stronger blood current. 

Exercise for the face, therefore, is quite as necessary as exercise 
is for the body. One reason that the faces of men are more ruddy, 
and the facial muscles more firm, is because in the regular shaving 
of the hair from the face, the circulation is quickened, the glands of 
the face are exercised by the movement of the hairs and the muscles 
are exercised. 

Summary 
The effect of exercise and massage may be summed up thus : 

1. They relieve waste through the veins and lymph channels. 

2. They aid and assist the body to tear down its waste and to 
build up new tissue. 

3. They develop the muscles and ligaments and strengthen the 
tone of the muscles of the skin. 

4. They increase the activity of the skin, thus promoting the 
elimination of waste through the system. 

5. They increase the body heat. 

6. They have a reflex effect upon the sympathetic and vaso- 
motor nerves and, through them, upon the large internal organs,— 
the liver, spleen, stomach, intestines, kidneys and all glands of the 
body. 

7. They relieve restriction to the nerves, assist in relaxing them 
and, by promoting a better assimilation, strengthen and nourish 
them. 

8. They reduce fat and build up body tissue. 



APPENDIX 



APPENDIX 377 

First soften the corn by immersing the foot in 
Hard Corns water as hot as can be borne for thirty minutes — 
or bind the end of a lemon an inch or two thick 
over the corn and leave on over night. Either method will thor- 
oughly soften. Next scrape or cut off the callus until the surface 
is level with the adjacent skin. Dry the foot and cover the entire 
surface of the toe, including the corn, with many narrow strips of 
rubber plaster. Cut the strips narrow and adjust them nicely so 
as not to interfere with adjacent toes. The plaster remains until 
it separates of itself, usually in three or four days. Apply vaseline 
for a night and then repeat the process until entirely relieved. 

If you are unable to scrape the toe smooth, so that the corn is 
level with the surrounding flesh, repeat the softening process daily 
until this is accomplished before applying the rubber plaster. 

This process is entirely successful if the shoes do not constantly 
aggravate. 

Hard corns may also be removed by applying salicylated col- 
lodion sold by all druggists. 

In the first place all pressure must be relieved 
„ . c and the feet be kept clean and free from perspiration, 

or the perspiration be absorbed. To accomplish this 
keep medicated cotton between the toes day and night. Apply acetic 
acid or the silver nitrate crayon night and morning and dust boracic 
acid powder between the toes. 

Mal-odorous feet cannot be corrected by outward applications. 
The general health must be regulated. The feet should be immersed 
first in hot and then cold salt water night and morning. This stimu- 
lates and strengthens the skin. 



378 BEAUTY A DUTY 

Chilblains Treatment of chilblains must be directed to the gen- 

eral health. Exercise to promote a good circulation, 
brisk friction ; immersion in hot and cold water, as directed above, is 
a prevention. Bathe the affected parts in vinegar or with bay rum. 
Of late, chemists have made Russian oil the 
Facial Creams base of cold creams. This is a mineral oil and will 
not turn rancid. It has little value for the skin 
except as a cleansing agent. All creams containing animal oil will 
turn rancid in time, depending upon the amount of such oil contained. 

All creams, skin foods, etc., are best kept in a cool place. 

Since the war difficulty in obtaining Russian oil, the Standard 
Oil Co. has manufactured an oil called Stanolax; this is as satisfac- 
tory in every respect, though it has not yet the same specific gravity 
as the Russian oil, so not quite as beneficial for medicinal purposes. 

Lanolin, the oil from the sebaceous glands of the sheep, is the 
only oil known to absorb into the sebaceous glands of the skin and 
it is used in all "skin foods" or massage creams. This makes the 
cream slightly yellow and much stiffer than cold cream. A cream 
that is not sticky has no more value as a skin food than the cream 
of cow's milk, which, when sweet and thick, makes an excellent 
massage cream. Kept in a cool place, a proper skin food will keep 
for several months. 

Skin Food or Massage Cream Formula 

Spermaceti */2 oz. 

"White Wax i/ 2 oz. 

Cocoanut Oil 1 oz. 

Lanolin 1 oz. 

Oil of Sweet Almonds 2 oz. 



APPENDIX 379 

Melt gently in a porcelain vessel or double boiler over a slow 

fire. Remove, and when nearly cool add drop by drop 

Orange Flower Water 1 oz. 

Tincture of Benzoin 3 drops 

and a few drops of some concentrated perfume. Beat with an egg 
beater until creamy. 

Cold Cream or Cleansing Cream 

Almond Oil 4 oz. 

Rose Water 4 oz. 

Spermaceti % oz. 

White Wax % oz. 

Melt the spermaceti and white wax over a slow fire, remove and 
add the almond oil drop by drop, beating the mixture all the time. 
Add the rose water last. 

I purposely refrain from giving you a form- 
Whitening Cream ula for a Bleaching Cream, for all formulae con- 
tain some form of mercury, and mercurial 
solutions are not safe to use upon all faces. The U. S. government 
is taking steps to prevent such use. 

I know of but one bleaching cream which does not contain 
mercury (corrosive sublimate) and that cannot be given. 

The base of face powder is rice flour or talcum 
Face Powder powder. Zinc oxide, about 18%, is used to produce a 
texture necessary to cause it to adhere to the skin, 
and whatever perfume is desired. 

No woman can satisfactorily make her own face powder, for 
it must be sifted many times through the finest of bolting cloths. 
It requires machinery to do this satisfactorily. 






i.RBAp'28 



-«v 



